Friday, February 27, 2009

Make A Wrought Iron Wine Rack

Customize your own wine rack.


Wrought iron is typically a casted metal that you can purchase in panels from home improvement stores or crafting stores. Wrought iron is a strong and durable material that is often aesthetically pleasing due to the fact that it is usually crafted into a circular or vine-like design. Wrought-iron panels and wood can be used to make a homemade customized wine rack. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


Building a Wrought-Iron Wine Rack


1. Purchase two wrought-iron panels with the same scroll designs. Each wrought-iron panel should be approximately 48 inches tall by 24 inches wide. Check to make sure that there is enough room between the wrought iron to fit wine bottles every two to four inches. Most 750 ml wine bottles are 11 to 12 inches in circumference.


2. Use the miter saw to cut four two-inch x four-inch posts to a height of 54 inches. Stain or paint the posts to the color you desire and place them on an old sheet or drop cloth to dry.


3. Measure six inches in from both ends on the sides of the wrought-iron panels. Mark the measurement using a light paint marker. Use the metal-cutting drill bit to drill a hole through the outside of the wrought-iron panels on the marks you made with the paint marker. Make sure that the holes you are cutting go from the outside of the panels towards the middle of the panels. These holes will be used to place screws through and into the inside edges of the two-inch x four-inch posts. You should drill four holes per wrought-iron panel, and each should be six inches from each outside corner on the outer edges of the iron.


4. Lay two of the wood posts on the ground. Measure nine inches down on each post on the broad (four inch) side of the posts and mark it using a marker or pencil. Drill the screws through the holes in the wrought-iron panels and into the middle of the wood posts at the nine-inch mark. Do this for both sides of the wrought-iron panels into two of the wood posts. Repeat the process for the other two posts and the other wrought-iron panel.


5. Line up the two wrought-iron panels so that they are parallel to one another. Measure eight inches inward from the top and bottom of the wooden posts. Mark the eight-inch mark with a marker or pencil. Use wood glue to secure the wooden dowel rods on the eight-inch marks between the front and back wooden posts so that the panels and posts are supported and connected. Allow to dry for 24 hours. There should now be approximately eight inches between the wrought-iron panels, and you can store your wine bottles by resting the bottles evenly in the design of both panels.







Tags: wrought-iron panels, wine bottles, wood posts, wrought-iron panel, eight inches, four-inch posts, holes wrought-iron

About Wrought Iron

While wrought iron remains a popular material for decorative applications--gates, fences, outdoor stairs and railings--it is for that very reason that it is one of the most mislabeled building materials around today. Wrought iron has not been made in the United States since 1969, and many of the new "wrought iron" products are called that simply because they are a traditional application of wrought iron. Does this Spark an idea?

Content


Wrought iron is commercially pure iron, which is to say it has a carbon content so low as to not qualify as steel. This gives it the quality of being tough but malleable. "Wrought" itself is an outmoded English word that is almost synonymous with "worked," so "wrought iron" can be read to literally mean "worked iron."


Process


In 1925, American James Aston developed the last major innovation in making wrought iron. This involved pouring very hot molten steel onto a pool of cooler slag. The sudden contact with the cooler slag causes the steel to rapidly drop in temperature and expel gasses that are dissolved into its matrix, purifying it into wrought iron. While this was the most economical process developed for the production of wrought iron, by the 1960s steel had become so cheap that wrought iron could no longer compete with low-grade, mild steel. The last wrought-iron plant in the United States closed its doors in 1969.


Misconceptions


Since wrought iron is no longer made in the U.S., much of the products that are supposedly made of wrought iron are, in fact, made of steel with a very, very low carbon content. This steel is close enough that, given how much cheaper it is to make, it is more economical even if it is not as good in certain applications. The term "wrought iron" continues to be used for those products that were traditionally made out of wrought iron.


Common Uses


Examples of some common items that are still said to be made of wrought iron include certain kinds of chain, horseshoes, handrails, ornamental ironwork, railway couplings and rivets. Other products that were once always made of wrought iron--nuts and bolts, for example--are no longer described this way, since they are obviously made of something else (steel, stainless steel or brass, in the case of nuts and bolts).


Advantages


Wrought iron has a number of useful characteristics relative to steel or cast iron. It is malleable and tough at the same time, which means it can be readily deformed into different shapes with a very low risk of fracture. Steel, on other hand, is harder and stiffer, and therefore not always as malleable. Cast iron is very brittle. Wrought iron becomes soft at a low level of heat (low for iron, that is), making it useful to blacksmiths and for welding. It also has a rough microscopic surface, making it better for holding platings or coatings. For example, if you were to paint a wrought-iron bridge or silver-plate a wrought-iron statue, it would hold more material on its surface than if it were made of steel.

Tags: wrought iron, made wrought, made wrought iron, products that, carbon content

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Decorate A Home With A Tuscany Theme

Create the look of Tuscany with warm tones and natural materials.


Tuscan-themed decor is centered on rustic elegance. Warm colors and natural elements are used to recreate the Old World charm of the sprawling Italian countryside. This style incorporates wrought iron, terracotta and natural wood pieces, coupled with fabrics and wall colors that evoke the feeling of being in nature. This style is warm, welcoming, family friendly and functional. Before decorating, think about the materials you will need to incorporate into different rooms of your home to successfully create a Tuscan-themed decor. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Choose paint colors for your Tuscan-themed home. The walls serve as the canvas for the rest of the room, so you'll want to pick colors that will call to mind the feeling of being in the Tuscan countryside. Warm, earthy hues, such as terracotta red, sunny yellow, olive green, and burnt orange are ideal choices for this design style. If you'd prefer more neutral walls, stay away from stark white and instead opt for ecru or beige.


2. Incorporate natural architectural elements into your home to give it a hand-crafted look. Frame walls and ceilings with wide-planked, natural wood timber. Apply stucco to the walls before painting them to give them a textured look. Use terracotta, hand-painted tiles, or travertine tiles for the backsplash, floors or countertops in a bathroom or kitchen.


3. Furnish the rooms with worn pieces made of natural materials. Gently tap pine furniture with a hammer to give it a distressed look. Use a reclaimed wooden barn door as a coffee table. A glass-topped dining table set upon a wrought-iron frame works well in a kitchen or dining room. In a bedroom, frame the bed with a wrought iron or carved wood headboard. Choose mismatched pieces to give your home a worn in and welcoming look.


4. Accessorize with natural elements. Place wicker baskets on the walls and on top of the cabinets in a kitchen. Provide lighting with amber glass sconces and wrought iron lamps and chandeliers. Display terracotta pots and copper canisters on countertops and wall shelves. Cover windows with jute or linen draperies. Add warmth to tile or wood floors with woven rugs. Frame paintings of the Tuscan landscape in large wooden frames and hang them on a focal wall.

Tags: wrought iron, your home, colors that, feeling being, natural elements, natural materials, natural wood

About Vintage Patio Furniture

About Vintage Patio Furniture


In the last century or so, outdoor entertaining has become not only acceptable but popular. Many of us remember the classic redwood picnic table that hosted family picnics and the Aunt Bert's porch glider. Vintage patio furniture reminds all of us of a simpler time when summer seemed long and lazy. The good news is that these classic pieces are available again in reproductions as well as restorations. Does this Spark an idea?


History


Outdoor furniture originally meant a rocking chair on the porch. On hot summer nights, kitchen chairs were often brought out, too. If the house was just too hot, a table and chairs might be set out under a tree for dinner. Well-to-do hosts created a market for furniture specifically designed for outdoor use, beginning with wrought iron, ship-style hammocks and canvas-seated chairs modeled after military campaign chairs. By the end of the nineteenth century, middle class homeowners were putting wood and wicker furniture out on the porch and when the movies popularized the California "patio" early in the twentieth century, homeowners used a variety of types of furniture to entertain family and guests outdoors. Today, the patio resembles an outdoor room with kitchen-grade appliances, arbors and fireplaces for cool evenings. As for technology, new synthetics and engineered materials make furniture that differs little from that used inside the house.


Function


As patios gained favor, new materials were used to fabricate new styles. The standard steel chair and glider settee, made of rolled steel with molded seats and backs shaped like sea shells or flowers, appeared after World War II and can still be found on patios and porches. Folding wood furniture was made more permanent and the Adirondack chair, a simple lawn form using unadorned flat lumber and simple design to create a relaxing form, was reduced in scale and "dressed up" to resemble indoor furniture in cedar and, beginning in the 1960s, teak. Furniture makers learned to perforate solid metal surfaces and construct slatted seats and backs on wood furniture to drain water and avoid rust and mildew. By the 1940s, matching "suites" of patio furniture were common.


Types


Vintage patio furniture may be wrought iron but wrought aluminum, a material developed in the 1920s is lighter and less likely to rust. Fabricated steel, or "heavy metal," furniture became popular in the latter half of the century as defense industries transitioned to peacetime production. The glass top table gained popularity in the 1950s and wood furniture made a comeback as the children of the 1960s looked for more "natural" materials to put on their patios in the 70s and 80s. Umbrellas, few of which have survived, tended to be large-ribbed, canvas-covered affairs.


Considerations


Inspect carefully to find any rust or previous repairs when shopping for vintage outdoor furniture. Wood shrinks and glue dries out with time so be prepared to do some refurbishing. Check the canvas--if you need to replace it be sure you know how it's "rigged." Old "redwood" furniture is real redwood and must be oiled or stained regularly.


Warning


Maintain genuine antique steel or cast iron furniture carefully to avoid rust. Keep cushions out of the weather when not in use. Shop carefully for old pieces--like any antiques, prices will vary widely.







Tags: patio furniture, wood furniture, About Vintage, About Vintage Patio, avoid rust, furniture made

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Chandeliers From The 1900s

Chandeliers became symbolic of art and fashion.


At the turn of the 20th century, the chandelier evolved from serving a primarily functional role in the home into a decorative statement of style. Individual manufacturers including Baccarat, Schonbek, Swarovski and Tiffany had begun to make a name for themselves as chandeliers elevated into a symbol of prosperity. Having become a member of the art and fashion world, chandeliers of the 1900s mirror social trends and art movements that occurred throughout the century. Does this Spark an idea?


European Design Influence


In the late 1800s, Americans became interested in high-style designs coming from Europe. More Americans began travelling to Europe, and young American architects and designers studied aboard. Chandelier styles trace the various "revivals" of style inspired by Old World Europe, including the classic symmetry and ornamentation of Neoclassical period lighting, Colonial Revival or "Williamsburg style" fixtures resembling earlier Georgian and federal styles, and Tudor Revival styles made of cast iron, wrought iron and crystal.


Art Impacts Lighting Styles


The beginning of the 20th century marked a global movement among designers to introduce new and original interpretations of art and style. Taking inspiration from nature and women, Art Nouveau was a rebellion against rigid academic schools. The main characteristics of the Art Deco movement were derived from various avant-garde painting styles of the early 20th century. Chandelier designs of the 1900s were influenced by both of these significant art movements.


A Return to Simple, Less Ornate Styling


The international Arts and Crafts movement represented a rebellion against mass production techniques, calling upon artists to make their pieces individually and by hand. The simplicity, squareness and symmetry of chandelier lighting of this period also influenced the American Craftsmen/Bungalow Period which came to represent the common builder's house.


Architectural Trends Continue to Provide Inspiration


No matter what style is desired, lighting plays an essential role. From the palatial homes of the Industrial Age in the early 1900s to mid-century Frank Lloyd Wright influence, the chandelier is often the essential first impression defining the interior design trends of the era. Look to the chandelier as one way to catalog various expressions of traditional and contemporary styles throughout each decade of the 1900s.







Tags: 20th century, rebellion against

Repair Outdoor Wicker Furniture

Repair damaged wicker furniture instead of replacing it.


Outdoor wicker furniture is commonly used on patios, decks and gardens because it resists natural elements while providing comfort. Sections of wicker are made from natural or synthetic material woven into a variety of patterns and designs. However, the fragile material cracks easily when dry. Repair any damages such as broken, cracked or missing strands or sections to continue using the furniture instead of rendering it useless. Make sure any additional wicker you need for repair matches the wicker used in your furniture so it blends easily instead of standing out. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


Broken Strand Repair


1. Flip the wicker chair upside down. Inspect the strand to determine whether it is broken or cracked. Apply strong glue to a broken strand that has both ends intact. Allow the glue to thoroughly dry. If the strand is broken, clip it off at an angle and slide it out of the frame or weave using tweezers. Use sharp scissors that slice straight through the strand instead of leaving a jagged cut. Insert exposed ends under interwoven strands and apply glue to prevent these from unraveling.


2. Soak a new strand in a container of water for 15 to 20 minutes. Measure the length of the removed strand and cut the new strand to the same length plus 2 inches.


3. Insert the tip of the new strand through the underside of the chair and weave it in the gap following the pattern of surrounding strands. Pull the strand taut while weaving.


4. Trim ends of the new strand and butt the ends so they are in line with the wicker on surrounding wicker strands. Follow manufacturer's directions to apply waterproof glue over the new strand and allow it to dry before placing the chair back in its place.


Cracked Strand Repair


5. Immerse the tip of a paintbrush in a bottle or container of boiled linseed oil and spread it evenly over the cracked surface of the wicker furniture. Make sure you cover all gaps between woven sections.


6. Immerse the tip of the brush in the oil and reapply over the surface of the wicker chair again. Repeat the procedure until it stays shiny and cannot absorb any more oil.


7. Rub the chair with paper towels to wipe excess oil off. Leave the chair to dry for 24 hours.


Missing Strand Replacement


8. Soak the new strands of reed in water for 15 to 20 minutes. Always soak more than you need to make up for those that crack or are damaged during the weaving process.


9. Spread a wet cloth over the part of the wicker chair that has missing strands for 30 minutes. This makes the surrounding strands pliable so you easily weave the new ones around them.


10. Insert the tip of a new strand into the gap and weave it in and out of the other strands. Glue the ends of the new strand to the edge of the furniture or two strands on either side if necessary. Leave the chair to dry.







Tags: wicker chair, broken cracked, ends strand, furniture instead, Insert strand

Redo Plant Beds

Ask for help when redoing a plant bed.


If you have old garden beds that need a re-haul, or you moved into a home with garden beds planted with plants you don't like, redoing them is an option. While it's not easy to pull out all the plants and start over it is possible to redo plant beds. Poor plant selection and a change of heart by the gardener are also reasons to redo a plant bed. The hardest part is removing all the plants already in the bed. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Pull up all the weeds and other plants from the garden bed. Use the hand trowel to dig up stuck in roots. If there are large shrubs you may have to dig them out with the spade.


2. Select plants for your new garden bed. Choose plants that do well in the amount of light the bed gets. If the bed gets full sun, at least six to eight hours of sunlight a day, flowers like asters, poppies and snapdragons are good. If the bed only gets three to four hours of sun a day, choose hostas or lily of the valley since they need less light.


3. Add 3 to 4 inches of compost to the soil and work it into a depth of 8 to 10 inches. This improves the condition of your soil.


4. Dig holes for your plants as deep as the root balls and two times as wide. Place the plants into the holes and fill the holes with soil. Pat the soil down firmly.


5. Water the garden bed well for five minutes. Apply a 1- to 2-inch layer of mulch around the base of the plants.







Tags: garden beds

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

A Front Courtyard

Courtyards can be inviting entries into a house or secluded private places that are attractive from the street side. They are popular in places like New Orleans, Charleston and many areas of California. However, they are not allowed in many cities and residential areas with regulations about setbacks on a lot or permitted front yard construction. Courtyards usually are enclosed with a wall, fence or landscape screening, and often have an ornamental entry gate. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions


1. Create a private front courtyard with a decorative wall or fence and landscape planting. Brick or stone are ideal masonry options for a courtyard wall. Build it right at the outside property line or slightly set back from the street. Bricks can be laid solid or in an open pattern to provide privacy but allow air flow. Decorative wood fencing is another option. Avoid standard cedar privacy fence pickets in favor of 1-by-6 boards on alternate sides of the rails or slender slats with open space between. Another option is tall wrought iron fencing covered with vines or backed with tall plants.


2. Divide the courtyard into planting and seating areas. Put a curved brick walkway from the courtyard entry to the main house, with large planting beds on either side and an open seating area in the center. Another option is to build a center patio surrounded by planting beds, with stepping stone walkways. If the courtyard is large, put a small gazebo in one corner or add a decorative swing set -- for adults, not children.


3. Vary your plantings but make sure they are attractive from the street. Plant a few trees for shade; choose varieties that will not grow tall and overwhelm the courtyard. Trees with branches that form canopies are ideal. Plant plenty of spring bulbs, especially street side, and include some aromatic varieties. In California or Florida, plant lemon trees with blooms that are not only sweet-smelling but will produce edible fruit.


4. Add a water feature and an outdoor fireplace if the climate is suitable for year round courtyard use. A recirculating fountain will add pleasant sound and attract colorful birds. An outdoor fireplace is an increasingly popular option in many locales. These can be masonry -- brick or rock -- or metal cookers built into a masonry covering. If courtyard cooking is not an option, a chiminea or basic small fireplace will be useful on cool evenings.







Tags: from street, Another option, attractive from, attractive from street, fence landscape, outdoor fireplace

Design Ideas For Spanish Colonial Kitchens

Southwestern accents and art fit right in with a Spanish Colonial-style kitchen.


Spanish Colonial décor is a mixture of styles influenced by not only Spanish colonists but those of the southwest Native Americans as well. Sometimes this style is known as "mission" style because of it's resemblance to churches built in the southwestern states. Traditional Spanish design is Mediterranean influenced with colors of aqua blue and warm sunset hues. This--combined with the rich landscape of the southwest, the red rock, and vast expanses of terracotta-colored land--infuses Spanish Colonial décor. Does this Spark an idea?


Floors


Brick or tile flooring is most popular in Spanish décor. Often times the bricks are laid at skewed angles to make them look hand done. Terra cotta tiles add a bright red or yellow base color to build from. According to Home Tips, Sautillo tile is traditional and it comes in many shapes and sizes. Often times designers of a Spanish Colonial kitchen will use broad planks of wood or a mixture of the tile and wood. Brightly colored Navaho rugs are a perfect accent to a Spanish tile floor.


Stucco


Smooth stucco or plaster walls are one of the backbones to Spanish Colonial style because of their resemblance to adobe made from clay. Arched doorways give warmth to the space and can offer a type of "framing" from one room to another. Stucco is painted in creamy hues, or for a more dramatic look, you might consider yellow, orange or even Mediterranean blue for a colonial kitchen. Accent the walls with dark stained wood that looks worn with time.


Elegance


A Spanish Colonial kitchen can be as elegant or as casual as one desires. A hanging arrangement of copper pots over a tiled island full of blues, reds and yellows can make a kitchen casual and inviting. Or, if you prefer an air of elegance, you can tone the colors down and go for creamy tiles, warm textures and dark woods. Neutral-colored curtains with elaborate plumes can to the elegance of a space and are traditional of the colonial style. Bright hand-painted tiles in a traditional Native American design are the perfect accent for a kitchen backsplash.


Woods


Oak and Ponderosa pine are two popular woods used in Spanish Colonial décor. In New Mexico many ceilings feature vigas, or logs stripped of bark and laid into the ceiling with plaster between them. Support beams left worn add to the look and feel of the colonial period and dark stained wood trim. A combination of dark wood and iron looks wonderful with the colors of the Spanish Colonial style.


Accessories


Use free standing cabinets in a Spanish Colonial kitchen; simple utilitarian shapes are best. Metal accents such as copper or iron light fixtures look hand wrought. Pottery is huge with Spanish Colonial decorators. Terra cotta dishes, left natural or brightly painted are great for sitting atop kitchen cabinets.







Tags: Spanish Colonial, Spanish Colonial kitchen, Colonial kitchen, Colonial style, dark stained, dark stained wood, look hand

Friday, February 20, 2009

Restore Cast Iron Clawfoot Tubs

Before you turn that old tub into a planter, consider restoring it.


Many older homes that have been renovated have had their original cast iron clawfoot tubs removed. However, there is something of a revolution occurring: People are purchasing historic houses with the goal of putting in the original fixtures, and are doing their best to reinstall tubs that are period-appropriate. Cast iron clawfoot tubs often can be found at antique stores and flea markets. With some cleaning and restoration, one of these old beauties can be the focal point of your bathroom. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


Preparation


1. Work with the tub outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Remove the old paint and any surface rust; scrub the tub with fine steel wool or use an angle grinder for more stubborn areas. Work the tip of a flathead screwdriver between the niches of the claw feet to scrape away any rust or paint there.


2. Vacuum up all of the residue and run the upholstery brush attachment of the vacuum all over the tub to clean it. Examine the tub to make sure all you can see is the dark brown cast iron everywhere. Dampen an old rag with mineral spirits and rub it over the outside of the entire tub.


3. Use a large paintbrush or a paint roller to apply a thin coat of the rust-resistant sealer all over the tub. Let the sealer dry and add a second layer, allowing the second layer to dry completely. Lightly sand the whole tub with fine-grit sandpaper.


Re-Glazing


4. Pour the primer included in the refinishing kit into the reservoir of the paint sprayer. Spray a thin coat of primer evenly onto all of the tub surfaces. Let the primer dry 30 minutes, spray on a second coat and let the primer dry completely.


5. Rinse out the paint sprayer and fill it with the glaze. Apply a coat of glaze to the entire tub, wait 30 minutes and add a second coat of glaze. Clean out the reservoir again.


6. Add the topcoat to the reservoir. Coat the tub with five layers of topcoat, waiting 30 minutes between applications. Allow the tub to dry two to three days before installing it in your bathroom.







Tags: clawfoot tubs, coat glaze, coat primer, iron clawfoot tubs, paint sprayer, second coat, second layer

Repair Wrought Iron Beds

Many iron bed repairs are relatively easy.


Few things are more romantic than a wrought iron bed. Whether old or new, wrought iron beds are durable and beautiful, and come in a wide variety of styles and colors. But what if your wrought iron bed begins rusting? Or, has parts that are getting loose, or has areas that are actually broken? What if the paint is chipping? Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


Repair Common Iron Bed Damage


1. Remove any screws around rusty areas, to make the job of removing rust easier and more thorough.


2. Scrape small areas of rust away by hand, using a fine-grade piece of sandpaper or a wire brush. Alternatively, place two or three drops of kerosene or turpentine on a steel wool pad to remove the rust.


3. Implement a chemical remover if the bed is antique or has decorative details. Hardware stores generally have a selection of such rust removers, but an organic product like Rusterizer is safer to use than traditional chemicals. Use low-pressure grit sandblasting if there are large areas of rust. This should only be performed by a professional.


4. Repaint the rusted area yourself by choosing paint products designed specifically for wrought iron. Typically, these are spray on---not brush on---products. Because it's difficult to match paint colors, however, you'll probably have to repaint the entire bed.


5. Apply a primer, followed by two coats of the color you desire.


6. Spray on two layers of an acrylic topcoat for long-term protection. For antique furniture and for furniture that you want to last a long time, a professional powder coating is a better option.


7. Screw the bed back together and tighten any other loose screws you may find. If the screws are badly rusted, replace them with new screws.


8. Weld any broken pieces of iron. Do know wrought iron is difficult to weld, so if you've never welded it before, hire a professional to do the job. Most welders are used to working with iron auto parts, which are a bit different than wrought iron beds, so look for a welder used to doing historic repairs.







Tags: wrought iron, areas rust, than wrought, than wrought iron, wrought iron beds

Thursday, February 19, 2009

What Is African American Art

African American Art is loosely considered to be any visual art made by Americans of African descent. More specifically, it is art influenced by African American history and and experiences of African Americans. It can include paintings, basketweaving, potter, woodcarving, painting and even more modern mediums. African American Art is often recognizable by subject matter and style.


History/ beginnings


African American Art has its roots in slavery of Africans in the United States. Early African American Art was an extension of African Art in the countries the slaves were brought from. This art was made by individuals who were skilled artisans in Africa. Artifacts from the 1600s through 1800s are in the form of drums, quilts, wrought iron pieces and ceramics. African Americans began to paint in the late 1700s and early 1800s as white abolitionists began to patronize and encourage them in the arts. Very skilled African Slaves were able to buy their freedom using their art.


History/ emergence


African American art was first recognized after the civil war. Successful African American artists of this time created paintings with classical European theses such as landscapes and portraits.


History/Harlem Renaissance


The Harlem Renaissance in the 1920s gave African American artists more freedom to paint in themes that they were more related to their personal experiences. You could literally experience the African American struggle through the artists work of this period. This was the height of the African American Art movement.


Locating African American Art


Currently, African American art can be found mostly in African American circles as they seek art that they can identify with and that shows the beauty and struggles of the African American culture. It has yet to have reached a truly mainstream market as a whole. Still there are some African American artist who have reached a level of notoriety due to their work.


Considerations


Not all art painted by African Americans today qualifies as African American art. African American art is not categorized based on who creates the work, but because of the subject matter,such as African American people, themes, such as jazz, or ghetto life, and the style of the art, such as tramp art.







Tags: African American, African Americans, African American artists, American artists, Harlem Renaissance

Identify Antique Steel Fence Posts

An ornate wrought or cast iron fence.


Determining the vintage and make of your antique fence can be very much like following the bread crumbs that led Hansel and Gretel home. Manufacturers typically marked fences on the gate or gateposts. If the fence is marked, you're in luck. Even without markings, there are clues in the fence construction that will likely identify roughly the period in which it was made. Styles were fairly uniform, particularly when they became made of cast iron or, later, mild steel alloy. A little legwork and a lot of luck may lead you to roughly when it was produced and possibly the area, which could narrow the number of manufacturers. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Check the gate or gateposts for a medallion or stamp used by a particular manufacturer. The American Fence and Iron Works Company of Cincinnati, Ohio, placed a shield with their name on the gate. Champion Fence Company's moniker consisted of the company name on a UFO-shaped steel placard. Champion produced fences from 1876 in Kenton, Ohio, until at least 1892, when it manufactured the fence for the Iolani Palace in Honolulu. The Cleaveland Fence Company in Indianapolis, Indiana, produced steel fencing from 1893 through 1901 and was known to stamp its name on fence posts.


2. Look further. A handful of other companies branded gates or fence posts, according to Michael Trinkley, director of the Chicora Foundation, a Columbia, South Carolina, heritage preservation organization and likely the only organization that has researched the steel fencing history. Though scarce, information has been documented on a number of companies. Only a few are listed here so check the references below. C. Hanika & Sons, Celina, Ohio, made cast iron fences in the late nineteenth century through the early twentieth century but no longer existed by 1911. Crockett Iron Works in Macon, Georgia, manufactured fences from 1869 until the 1890s. Sears Roebuck is an anomaly. Its name is stamped on fences but the fences were supplied until 1921 by Stewart Iron Works of Lexington, Kentucky. Stewart remains operational in 2011 and could provide a good resource.


3. Follow the names and cities in which the companies were located if you're fortunate enough to have fencing that is stamped with a manufacturer. Check with the local library for city directories, town histories and catalogs in their archives. Check with the local historical society for any artifacts or information it might have. If no further information is available, the dates the company produced fencing is likely about as close as you can get to identifying the year it was manufactured.


4. Follow the bread crumbs. According to Trinkley, different manufacturing methods and materials were used at different periods. Corrosion is the first thing to look at. Wrought iron, because of its high iron and low carbon mixture, is highly corrosion resistant, and the fence could be dated as late as the 1920s. Mild iron, which has a high carbon and low iron content, rusts easily, is more brittle and will break more easily. Broken rusty posts and corrosion indicate the fence was constructed after World War II.


5. Look at replication of the posts. Identical posts are cast from the same mold, popular in the late 1800s to WWII. Post-WWII, alloyed mild steel was more common. The heavier and more ornate the fence posts, the earlier they were made, according to Trinkley.







Tags: cast iron, Iron Works, bread crumbs, Check with, Check with local, Fence Company, fence posts

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Creative Ideas On What You Can Use For A Fireplace Grate

An ornately decorated fireplace grate will make a bold statement.


Wood or coal is placed on fireplace grates made of steel rods to keep the flammable materials off the floor and to help air circulate around them to prolong a toasty fire. Elevating the smoke will ensure that it rises up and out of your chimney. Cast iron grates may resemble a basket and have small holes in the bottom. Anything made of non-flammable materials such as cast iron that will hold coal or wood and allow for air circulation will work as a fireplace grate, so you can be creative. Does this Spark an idea?


Family Name Fireplace Grate


Personalize your fireplace with a fireplace grate that features your family's surname at the front of the grate. From a website such as FindGift, you can order up to 12 letters or characters to spell out a name or perhaps an inspirational word such as "faith" or "dream." The grate is fire-retardant and comes in black. It will hold coal or wood but not gas logs.


Fireplace Andirons


Andirons originated in the 1500s and make a unique alternative to traditional fireplace grates. An andiron is a metal bar, typically made from iron, bronze or steel, that is positioned horizontally to hold logs in a fireplace. Two andirons typically form what is known as a firedog. Andirons may be ornately decorated or they can feature symbols such as the Phoenix or Egyptian Sphinx. Consider having your own andirons made with a symbol that represents your family's ancestry or interests.


Cats


Cat lovers will appreciate a pair of black, cast iron andirons in the shape of a cat sitting on a piano-legged stool. There are holes for their eyes so that you can see the fire burning through them. These cat andirons are made of wrought iron with a matte black powder-coat finish for durability.


Deer Heads


Hunters will enjoy cast iron deer head andirons for a fireplace grate. They resemble the antlers on a deer's head and feature a graphite powder-coat finish that looks like iron. Each deer head andiron has a third leg in the middle to prevent any sagging from heavy firewood, and it will also keep logs from rolling out.







Tags: deer head, andirons made, cast iron, coal wood, fireplace grate, fireplace grates

Fry Chicken In A Cast Iron Skillet

Fried chicken is a quintessentially American dish. It is a picnic standard and a regular on dining tables, especially in the South. Cooking it in a cast iron skillet makes it better--and even more American in character. Cast iron pans are useful in the kitchen, both for their ability to withstand high temperatures and for their long-lasting heat retention. They also are valuable for their non-stick properties. Cast iron is the perfect pan for making perfect fried chicken. Add this to my Recipe Box.

Instructions


Prepare the Chicken


1. Rinse the chicken parts under cold running water and place them in a bowl. Cover with the buttermilk, then marinate the chicken in the buttermilk for three to four hours. Keep the chicken covered and refrigerated.


2. Combine the flour and seasonings in a bowl. Crack the eggs into another bowl and beat them well.


3. Remove one piece of chicken at a time from the buttermilk, starting with the largest pieces of chicken. Allow the excess buttermilk to drip off, then bury the chicken pieces in the seasoned flour. Keep the pieces separated from each other. Leave them in the flour for about 10 minutes.


4. Roll the floured chicken in the eggs, then bury in the flour again. Leave the chicken parts in the flour for another 10 minutes, then remove them and place them on a rack. Allow them to dry while the skillet heats.


Cook the Chicken


5. Put the oil or shortening in the skillet. Heat it on medium to 350 to 360 degrees Fahrenheit. Use your candy/deep fat thermometer to verify the temperature.


6. Place the chicken in the heated fat. Do not crowd the pan. If necessary, cook the chicken in two batches.


7. Brown the chicken quickly and thoroughly. If the chicken does not brown quickly, raise the heat slightly. Once the chicken is browned, reduce the heat, if necessary, so that the fat maintains a temperature of about 325 degrees. Reduce the heat if the chicken seems to be getting too brown too fast. Cooking time will be about 30 minutes. The internal temperature of the chicken should be about 165 degrees when checked with the meat thermometer.







Tags: about degrees, about minutes, Cast iron, chicken parts, place them

About Shooks

About S-Hooks


S-hooks have long been a household staple because they are so handy for hanging things. From hanging plants to pots and pans, S-hooks are a simple solution to many problems. Blacksmiths made S-hooks in Colonial and Frontier times for use in barns and stables. The design is simple and elegant; read on to learn more. Does this Spark an idea?


History


The technological developments that resulted in the Iron Age took many years. Metallurgy was a difficult and dangerous science, but by the twelfth century B.C., the Iron Age was beginning in Greece, Persia and India. With new techniques for working metal, smiths were able to forge more sophisticated tools, weapons, and household objects. In Yangtze, China, forged metal objects have been found dating back to the sixth century B.C. S-hooks became an important household tool in the nineteenth century.


Function


S-hooks are versatile and can be used to hang many items. One end of the S-hook can hook over a wire or board and the free end of the S-hook can hold something else. Particularly, women in the nineteenth century used different sizes of S-hooks to hold their cooking pots above fires. S-hooks were used as burner dials are used today: short s-hooks for simmering (because they held pots higher above the fire), long s-hooks for boiling (because the pot was closer to the flames).


Types


Today, there are many types of S-hooks, but they all have the same shape. Some are long and slender, some are shorter and thick. S-hooks can be made of wrought iron, galvanized steel, stainless steel, bronze or any other type of robust metal. They can also be plated with a variety of metals such as nickel, zinc and chrome.


Significance


In the nineteenth century, blacksmith apprentices usually spent their first several months blowing the large billows to heat the fire in the forge. This was difficult but necessary work, and because it was unskilled labor, apprentices were perfect for the job. Also, from the vantage point of the billows, an apprentice could watch a skilled blacksmith and learn from him. When an apprentice was finally allowed to make something by himself, an S-hook was usually his first project. An S-hook is relatively easy to make but teaches the process of smithing and allows the apprentice to make a useful, salable object.


Considerations


Some S-hooks, particularly those designed for use on playgrounds, are bendable enough to be altered using an S-hook tool. This tool looks like a pair of gardening loppers and is strong enough to open or close S-hooks. This type of tool is especially useful if you are hanging swings with an S-hook.







Tags: nineteenth century, because they

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Lift A Fence Gate

Gates are difficult to open when not lifted properly.


A fence gate needs to be lifted when the bottom edge of the latch side of the gate hangs lower than the hinge side of the gate. Long heavy fence gates are usually the most problematic when it comes to this issue because of the distance from the hinge end to the latch end. These gates, if swung to hard, can cause the hinges to shift thus causing the latch end of the gate to hang lower than the hinge side. The fence post upon which the gate hangs can also lean inward causing the latch end of a gate to hit the ground. These gates have to be held up by hand to close. Lifting a gate might require a days worth of work, but it can save the headache of Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Remove the gate from the hinges on the fence posts. There are usually two-four hinges holding a gate up. The way the gate is removed depends on the design of the hinges, but most gates can be simply lifted off the hinges. Inspect the hinges and replace any that are bent or damaged.


2. Inspect the level of the fence post by placing a level on the top of the post. If the leveling bubble isn't centered the post will need to be removed and repositioned. Dig the post out of the ground using a shovel. When the post can spin freely in the hole spin the post so that the side that the hinges are on is opposite of the gate opening. Remove the hinges and reposition them on the unhinged side of the post. This will give new support strength to the hinges.


3. Position the post in the hole with the level on top. When the leveling bubble is centered begin placing soil in around the post with a shovel. Tap the soil down with the handle end of the shovel to pack the soil tight around the post. This packing will keep the post in position until the hole is refilled. Use concrete for fence posts upon which large steel gates are hung.


4. Rehang the gate on the hinges and allow the gate to swing open and closed a couple times. Watch to see that the gate has been lifted properly. The height of the gate, from the ground, should be equal on both the latch side and the hinge side. If the gate has not been lifted or the weight of the gate causes the post to shift again concrete should be used to anchor the post upon which the gate swings.







Tags: hinge side, side gate, upon which, around post, been lifted

Date Griswold Cast Iron Pans

Griswold collectors preserve cast iron pans.


Griswold Manufacturing, makers of cast iron cookware, started business in Erie, Pennsylvania, about 1865. Wagner Manufacturing, an American competitor for years, purchased Griswold in 1957, so Griswold had 92 years of production in Erie. That is nearly a century of production for collectors to date collectible Griswold items. Production continued after that time by another company, and reproduction of Griswold cookware in recent years complicates dating Griswold cast iron pans. You can review the basics in a short time, but some of the finer points take years to learn.


Instructions


1. Look for the oldest Griswold marks from 1865 to 1909. The original company name was Selden and Griswold, and occasional items are still available with this name. There was a spiderweb logo from this same time period that marked teapots and a few skillets. The diamond Erie mark, or "Erie" in a horizontal diamond, was used for griddles and toys during this era.


2. Recognize the Erie in a cross mark from 1897 to 1957. This mark has "Griswold" in a slant font. There were other marks used during this time frame, including the "Erie, Pa. USA" mark. From 1920 to about 1940, Griswold used a block font with no slant. This is the mark most collectors recognize, and this is the era of the most available collectible Griswold cast iron pans.


3. Look for "ERIE" on cast iron pans if you want Griswold. After the purchase of Griswold by Wagner, production continued in Sidney, Ohio, by Randall Company, division of Textron, for about 10 years.


4. Watch for counterfeit pieces and others not made by Griswold, including items with both Griswold and Wagner logos. Griswold & Cast Iron Collectors Association reports that items with both logos came from General Housewares Co. in the 1960s when they owned rights to both logos. Recent counterfeit items are slightly smaller and heavier and the mark is not as clear. They are not as smooth as the original Griswold cookware.

Tags: iron pans, cast iron, cast iron pans, both logos, collectible Griswold

Monday, February 16, 2009

Remove Wrought Iron Fencing

Remove wrought iron fence and redo the look of your landscaping.


Wrought iron fencing consists of sections of fence attached to evenly spaced fence posts. The biggest difference in removal of wrought iron fencing versus wood or plastic fencing is that handling the weight of each wrought iron fence section requires care to avoid injury. Like other types of fence, each section is attached to the support posts at the top and bottom of the section with hardware. Assistance is generally needed to help to remove wrought iron fencing, as it can be difficult to manage the pieces on your own. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Locate the bolts attaching the wrought iron fence section to the support post. Typically there are two bolts at the top and two at the bottom of each side of the section (fences with short sections or short section heights may only have one bolt at the top and bottom on each end).


2. Loosen the bolts attaching the fence section to the support post on each end of the section with a socket wrench. You may need to slip a short piece of steel pipe over the end of the wrench to increase your leverage to break the bolts loose.


3. Remove the bottom bolts on each end of the fence section completely.


4. Remove the top bolts on one end and lower the end to the ground. Have someone hold the fence section so it remains upright. Remove the top bolts from the opposite end and carry the fence section to where the sections are to be stacked and stored. Repeat steps 2, 3 and 4 until all the sections are removed before going on to Step 5.


5. Break through the top soil and any grass or other plantings that may have grown around the bottom of the fence support posts with a shovel. Dig around the post four inches and dig down at least 12 inches so there is no soil surrounding the post.


6. Rock the post back and forth by pushing and pulling on it until it is loose in the ground.


7. Pull the post from the ground. If the post is too heavy to manually pull out, lay some boards on the ground near the welded bolt bracket (that the fence section was attached to) of the post and place the pole jack on the boards. Pump the jack up so the lifting plate on the jack pushes against the bracket. Keep pumping the jack to raise the pole from the hole. Repeat steps 5, 6 and 7 to remove every fence post.

Tags: fence section, iron fence, iron fencing, wrought iron, wrought iron fence, bolts attaching

Italian Garden Art

Bacchus, the god of wine, is a common decorative item in Italian gardens.


Italian garden art features many of the same elements and colors as Italian home decorating. Vibrant hues of blue, orange or gold help to bring the look of the Mediterranean to the backyard. Does this Spark an idea?


Geography


Using garden art isn't restricted to just a flower garden. It enhances any outdoor space, including the backyard. By using common decorative items in both the garden and the backyard, homeowners can tie the two spaces together visually.


Features


Bacchus, the god of wine, is a common theme in Italian garden decorating. In the garden, this manifests as Bacchus fountains or garden statues. Additionally, many items typically considered indoor items like paintings have outdoor equivalents, which can be hung on the fence or a back wall. When decorating the garden, homeowners should not overlook items like colorful Italian pottery, tiles and stone works, including sandstone and marble.


Considerations


Wrought iron is a common element in Italian decorating. For homeowners who plan on featuring this Italian decorating element in their Italian-style garden, the wrought iron should be treated against rust. Most lawn furniture comes already treated.







Tags: Bacchus wine, Bacchus wine common, common decorative, decorating garden, Italian decorating, items like

Friday, February 13, 2009

Decorate With Antique Wall Clocks

Many antique clocks are beautiful yet simple and replace artwork as the primary focus of a wall display.


Antique clocks provide a room with interesting shapes and idiosyncrasies. Savvy decorators find these treasures at antique shows, auctions or flea markets and many of the clocks still work. All successful interior decorating relies on following the rules of interior design, which ensure that a display is interesting, symmetrical and balanced. However, in this case, the antique clocks replace traditional artwork as the primary focus of the display. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


Decorating with Antique Clocks


1. Look for clocks that feature artwork on them as well as traditionally designed antique clocks. The clocks that feature artwork often have scenes of the Italian countryside, roosters, wine and other European motifs (although they are certainly not limited to just European). These bring color to the display.


2. Choose clocks of varying sizes and shapes. This breaks up the monotony of the clock gallery.


3. Decide on ancillary features as well. These items could include framed fine-art posters, sconces or other framed artwork. Although your goal is to feature clocks as your decorating item of choice, it's difficult for the eye to focus on individual clocks when they are displayed in row upon row on the wall. One or two different pieces make all the difference.


4. Select one or two of the larger clocks as your focal points. You may decide to focus on one or two clocks on the wall and then another one on a side table, preferably close to the larger display so that all of these elements are tied together visually by their close proximity.


5. Plan on using color, design and shape to pull the display together. These elements can be on the clocks themselves or on the accessories.


6. Determine when less is more. Although you want the clock to be the primary decorative motif in the room, it's often better to choose a few large clocks and add only two or three smaller clocks to the gallery.


7. Follow the rules of interior decorating and design when setting up the display. It'll help you keep your work balanced. Map out a plan on your wall for the clocks on paper or your computer after you've chosen the clocks to go into your display. Typically, galleries look better when you hang the items in odd-numbered groupings. Finally, print out your display if you've made it in a computer program.


8. Measure the spots on the wall where you'll hang the clocks based on your gallery plan. Add nails to the wall in the places you've marked and hang the display.







Tags: antique clocks, artwork primary, artwork primary focus, clocks that, clocks that feature, clocks your, feature artwork

Anchor Posts For A Wood Fence

Anchor Posts for a Wood Fence


Anchoring fence posts in the ground can be accomplished in two ways--by cementing or anchoring. Both methods require planning to make sure your posts are plumb and at the right angle in relation to other posts. Post anchoring in cement can save you a lot of money if you have a lot of posts to install, and cementing also tends to be a bit more secure. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


Cement Method


1. Make sure wood posts are either redwood or cedar.


Map out with wood stakes and construction string where all the posts are going. This allows you to plan for how much material you will need and also check the angles and lines.


2. Dig a 2-foot post hole with a post-hole digger or power auger. Insert the 4x4 red wood or cedar post into the hole. The post should be 25% taller than the size of the fence. For example, if you are building a 6-foot fence, your post needs to be 8 feet long to allow for 2 feet to be buried.


3. Fence post evenly spaced and in a nice line.


Throw crushed gravel into the hole with a round nose shovel until it fills the bottom 6 inches. This will help water drain away from the post.


4. A good wheelbarrow should suffice for a 2-foot deep hole.


Place one shovel full of Portland cement, two shovels of sand and three shovels of aggregate in the wheelbarrow and repeat until the wheelbarrow is full. Mix with the hoe, then add 5 gallons of water until you have a slurry solution of cement. The cement should be on the wet side so it will pour easily.


5. Brace your new fence post with 2x4s.


Pour the cement in the hole, around the post. Use a level to check that the post is plumb and level, then brace it with scrap 2x4 or rope and wood stakes. The cement will dry completely in one week, but can be worked on after it sets. Follow the directions on the bag.


6.

Anchor Method


7. Map out with wood stakes and construction string where all the posts are going. This allows you to plan for how much material you will need and also check the angles and lines.


8. Hammer post anchors into the ground with a sledgehammer. Place a 2x4 over the hardware so the sledgehammer does not cause damage. Use a 30-inch post anchor spike for a 6-foot post.


9. Insert a post into the anchor and secure the post by screwing in 2-inch wood screws with the power drill.







Tags: wood stakes, allows plan, allows plan much, also check, also check angles

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Decorating A Small Country Style Master Bedroom

Decorating a Small Country Style Master Bedroom


Country Colors


The first step in decorating a country style master bedroom is selecting a wall color. While unfinished wood walls are a great choice, this will only make the room look smaller if it is small. White walls fit the country theme and add the appearance of more room. If white seems too dull, light shades of similarly bright colors, such as pale green, soft lavender or a creamy rose hue, will all suit a small country bedroom.


Flooring Choice


The ideal flooring choice for a country bedroom is wood or laminate with a wood appearance. Any color or style of wood flooring will look great. For a small master bedroom, whitewashed wood or laminate floors will make the room look more spacious. The whitewashing also provides an antique farmhouse appeal. Scatter several throw rugs, especially braided or otherwise handmade rugs, on the floor.


Lighting Selection


Lighting provides ambiance to a room and is functional as well. Seek out two types of lighting for a small, country bedroom. Bedside lamps will provide task lighting for reading and other undertakings. Look for small table lamps resembling lanterns, or wood lamp bases with gingham fabric lampshades. Wall sconces that look like candles or a diminutive Tiffany-style ceiling fixture will light the entire room. Avoid big, bulky light fixtures in a small room.


Finding Furnishings


Selecting furniture for a country style master bedroom is more fun than it is a chore. Country decor allows for an eclectic mixture of old and new, wood and metal. A wood, brass or wrought iron four-poster bed looks just right in a country bedroom. Shop for a full or queen bed, as a king size bed will overwhelm a small room. Dressers, chests and nightstands can be unfinished wood of any type, although wood painted white looks charming as well. In a small room, avoid too many oversize pieces. Instead, shop for items that serve two purposes, such as a quilt chest with a padded lid that also works as a bench seat.


Final Touches


Top off a country style master bedroom with quilts hung on the wall or draped over furnishings. Floral, checked or gingham throw pillows add interest and comfort as well. Rather than cluttering up dressers with knickknacks, set a simple vase of fresh cut wildflowers or daisies on the nightstand.







Tags: country bedroom, master bedroom, small room, country style, Decorating Small

About Mexican Cabinet Hardware

About Mexican Cabinet Hardware


Folks who absolutely love furniture done in the mission style, thick wood or Mexican designs will definitely need to match it with the proper hardware. Mexican cabinet hardware can be just as thick, heavy and striking as the piece it is accenting. It will also give off the same homey, old-world effect if chosen right. A grand array of Mexican cabinet hardware can be found from a variety of sources, or people can create their own to refine it to a particular piece. Does this Spark an idea?


Types


Mexican cabinet hardware comes in a variety of hinges, drawer pulls and knobs. Hinges can be square, round, oval or shaped like an arrow with a triangular point. More elaborate styles include the butterfly hinge, with two sides that fan out like butterfly wings; hatchet hinges, which feature a piece that latches by coming down like a hatchet to meet its mate; crown hinges, which have one or both ends in the shape of a small crown; and mustache hinges, which resemble an upturned mustache. Drawer pulls and knobs have an equally impressive variety. Pull rings, which are attached to the drawer or cabinet with a wire fastener, come in shapes ranging from a simple circle to heart-shaped designs. Knobs are often connected to an ornate base and handles can be smooth, twisted, straight or undulated.


Features


Much of the Mexican cabinet hardware will be rustic, done in bronze, wrought iron or a variety of dulled metals. Some will be a single color, while others will feature highlights of a rusty or limestone hue. Mexican cabinet hardware is generally thick, clunky, heavy and large enough to make a statement. For the more delicate cabinets, hardware selection can include a hammered, etched or plain tin or even more fragile pieces. Glass, beads and painted porcelain can be selected for a more refined look, but all will have an antique feel. Just because much of the cabinet hardware may look old and weathered doesn't mean it is. Some newer pieces may simply be painted with a rusty or other antique finish.


Function


While the hinges, knobs and handles serve obvious functions, other Mexican cabinet hardware has no other purpose but to look good. These include accents that are screwed on or otherwise attached to the furniture. They, too, can be made of wrought iron or a variety of other materials. Some of the shapes include flowers, suns, circles or other geometric formations and even small animal figures or masks. Accents can be placed anywhere on the piece for a dash of design.


Effects


Rustic, rugged and old world are the effects produced and usually desired by using Mexican cabinets and their hardware. But the effect is not going to work if fine attention is not paid to every detail. Using the wrong screws, for instance, can ruin the entire effect in a single glance. Those who use rustic or rusted hardware will want to get screws that match. Placing a shiny new screw with the beaten-down hardware is going to have a jarringly gauche effect. If proper screws cannot be found, one can easily create or purchase screw head covers. These are small pieces, made of the same or complementary material as the other hardware, that can be glued atop the screw heads to hide it and keep the look uniform. Screw heads can also be dabbed with antique or a matching color paint or paint pen so it blends.


Considerations


People don't have to rush out looking for hardware that matches what is exactly in their mind, but they can easily create their own. Creative types can simply choose a shape and size of the desired piece and embellish or paint it on their own.


Mexican cabinet hardware, or pieces that can be made into a dashing adornment, can be found at many home supply and hardware stores or online (see Resources below). Other places to scope out include salvage yards, which often have bins of hardware pieces, antique stores or from old furniture being discarded. Many a treasure can be found in heaps of debris.







Tags: cabinet hardware, Mexican cabinet, hinges which, Mexican cabinet, Mexican cabinet hardware, About Mexican, About Mexican Cabinet

Decorate Your Kitchen And Dining Room Tuscan Style

Are you looking to bring a bit of Italian Country into your home but don’t think you have the budget for it? With the central themes of Tuscan décor being food and nature this is one of the most popular and easiest styles to replicate. Italian country decor takes food, wine and nature and turns it into art. Two of the easiest rooms to incorporate this theme into are the kitchen and dining room. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions


Decorate Your Kitchen and Dining Room with a Tuscan Style


1. Use deep, earthy colors like terra cotta, browns, deep reds, oranges, yellows and greens on your walls and for your accent colors. By adding these colors you will soon feel the touch of the Tuscan countryside in your own home


2. Add natural textures like stone, tile, aged wood, exposed wood beams, iron and copper. Italian country/ Tuscan décor is full of texture, especially on the walls. If you want to give your walls a textured look, Venetian plaster is a good choice, though it can get expensive if you have a large room. It can also be very time consuming. The easiest way to add some texture is by using a texture additive with regular latex paint.


3. Incorporate a few faux wooden beams (if you don’t have real ones) by taking pieces of wood at the desired length and width and framing it in to make a hollow beam. You can distress it by hitting it with a chain or hammer, burning it a little with a torch and scraping it up. Then add your stain and finish it. You’ll have wooden beams at half the price, even cheaper if you find scrap wood that can be used for this project.


4. Change your flooring to stone tiles or hardwood floors or fake it. You can get laminate flooring that looks like hardwood or vinyl tile flooring that looks like stone.


5. Select a few well chosen pieces of furniture and some accessories that can give you the Tuscan feel and look you're going for. You can find old pieces of furniture with an aged and distressed look at flea markets, garage sales, even on the side of the road in someone's garbage. Some pieces of furniture to look for are old style kitchen cabinets, sideboards, buffets, and most important a big farmhouse type dining room table that is large, simple and sturdy.


6. Add some accessories and well chosen accents. Think nature and food. Tuscan décor thrives on food and nature. Terra cotta pots filled with fresh herbs, wicker baskets full of fruit and vegetables, displays of glass bottles filled with vegetables, fruits, and herbs steeped in vinegar or oil, copper pots on display filled with dried pasta or garlic cloves. Baskets, terra cotta pots, and bottles can all be found very cheaply. Chances are you might already have some of these items sitting around and just didn’t know what to do with them or display them.


7. Think wine and grapes. These are big themes in Italian décor, grapes and grape leaves, grape vine wreaths, anything that incorporates grapes, wine, wine bottles, or wine glasses can be used as décor and accessories. You can also add a small iron wine rack and fill it with wine bottles (they don’t have to be full; it can be just for show).


8. Brighten up the space with sunflowers. There are fields full of sunflowers in Tuscany. Give your rooms the feel of the Tuscan countryside by throwing some sunflowers into your décor.

Tags: filled with, pieces furniture, cotta pots, Decorate Your, Decorate Your Kitchen

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

About Metal Patio Furniture

About Metal Patio Furniture


Metal patio furniture, or also called garden furniture, is a growing trend. While there are many types to choose from, they are all very durable and will last for many years without the need for maintenance. With the growing abundance of accessories and options that can be added to any set, outdoor furniture is ideal for setting up a gathering area outside for family and friends. Does this Spark an idea?


History


Metal patio furniture was inspired by formal living room sets. Outdoor furniture was first limited to rocking chairs made of wood, or folding chairs with canvas backs. Inspired by formal living room chairs from the 1950s, the first metal patio furniture was curvy and very decorative.


Types


Metal patio furniture currently is made from several types of metal such as steel, iron and aluminum. There is a much wider range of styles as well. Wrought iron styles are very decorative and ornate, and most often are painted black. Other styles incorporate more straight lines, suggesting a modern style, and are painted silver, brown, white, black and other colors.


Considerations


When choosing a metal patio furniture set, it is best to consider where it will be placed, the surrounding area and decorations, as well as who will be using it. Many sets come in just two chairs with a small table, while many others will have six chairs and a full table similar to what you would see in a formal dining set up. Another consideration is whether cushions will be placed onto the chairs or not.


Function


Not only have the styles changed, but better functionality has been developed as well. New paint is being used now, similar to the paint that is used on automobiles, making it last longer while preventing rust. More form-fitting shapes are also now being used, making the seat more comfortable and not as hard. The chairs also have ventilation holes or slots built in to allow the body to breathe while sitting, as well as to allow water to drain when it rains so it does not puddle.


Features


Metal patio furniture sets have many additional features. Not only do they come in different sizes, but many have removable table leafs to make tables bigger or smaller. Tables can come in glass tops. Some of these tables will even have a hole in the middle to have a large umbrella installed for shade or rain protection.


Warning


While the metal patio furniture can be very decorative and functional, in the hot sun the metal can warm up and be very hot to sit on. On a hot day, a cushion should be used or water placed on the chair to cool it off before sitting on it. Many of the older metal furniture pieces used an old painting technique that often lead to the furniture rusting over time. To prevent this, these pieces can be repainted with the newer types of paint that will prevent the rusting from occurring.







Tags: patio furniture, Metal patio, patio furniture, very decorative, About Metal, About Metal Patio, being used

Characteristics Of Nineteenth Century Furniture

A typical cast-iron chair


The 19th century marks a period of transition from the old world to the modern world, as can be seen in the furniture from that time. With the rise of the Industrial Revolution, mass-producing pieces of furniture became a possibility, and with that the trend of a number of stylistic "revivals." Does this Spark an idea?


Cast Iron


One trade that received a large boost from the Industrial Revolution was iron-making. In the earlier centuries, this was a slow and difficult process, and iron furniture was expensive and hard to come by. Thanks to technological improvements, which drastically increased the speed and output, iron-makers were finally able to mass-produce pieces of cast-iron furniture. The use of iron as furniture material can be seen in numerous design styles of the later half of the 19th century, perhaps most notably in the chairs and tables in Victorian gardens.


High Backs


A number of chairs from the 19th century were made with high backs that rose well over the head of the person seated. This characteristic is a direct result of the Gothic revival in the world of furniture. Dating back to Medieval times, high backs could be found on chairs of high importance, such as a king's throne or on the seats around the royal tables. This is why, in the 19th century, high-back chairs became popular furnishings for dining rooms, home libraries and other more formal rooms of the house.


Carvings


Ornamentation in many forms was popular throughout the 19th century. This included ornate carvings on wooden furniture. With the technological advances of the Industrial Revolution, which allowed the mass-producing of basic parts, more time could be spent on detailing as opposed to construction. Wood carvings were important to the various revival styles of the time, including Rococo, Gothic and Renaissance, which previously were only reserved for those with the money to purchase specially designed and constructed furniture.


Brocade Upholstery


Brocade, a design style used on much of the furniture of the time, involves the use of heavy fabrics, along with raised stitching, to create ornate and intricate designs. This type of upholstery, which could be found in the living rooms of the wealthier citizens, is recognizable as a trait of Victorian furniture. The style was originally part of the Rococo revival of the 19th century, however, which featured ornate, often flowery designs similar to that of the original aristocratic French movement of the early 18th century.







Tags: 19th century, Industrial Revolution, could found, high backs, iron furniture

Restore A Wrought Iron Fence

Restore a Wrought Iron Fence


A wrought iron fence can add a beautiful touch to any landscape. Nevertheless, wrought iron, like anything else, requires occasional maintenance. Instead of leaving your fence "as is," you can increase the value of your home and give your property a new look by restoring your wrought iron fence. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Add a few drops of kerosene to a non-soapy steel wool pad.


2. Scrub your fence with the steel wool pad to remove any rust or peeling paint. Complete the scrubbing process until all of the rust or flaking paint is removed.


3. Clean your wrought iron fence with a sponge and a pail of warm soapy water.


4. Hose your fence off, removing all soap suds. Let dry for a 2 to 3 hours in the sun.


5. Choose a paint specifically manufactured for use on metal. Make sure that it clearly states "rust inhibitor" on the label.


6. Paint your wrought iron fence on a warm sunny day. Give it several hours to dry before you attempt to touch it.







Tags: wrought iron, wrought iron fence, your wrought iron, your fence, your wrought, fence with

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Wroughtiron Fence Styles

Wrought iron is a malleable material that offers the potential for a variety of styles.


If you gaze upon a metallic fence surrounding a Gothic mansion or a historic cemetery, it is most likely made of either cast iron or wrought iron. While cast iron is cheaper, wrought iron is a more malleable medium. This means that the possibilities of designs traditionally hand-crafted by blacksmiths were more intricate and diverse with wrought iron. Whether you are trying to identify the style of a wrought-iron fence at a historic landmark or would like to incorporate one in your home's landscape, many options and styles exist. Does this Spark an idea?


Picket


A picket wrought-iron fence


A simple wrought-iron fence design is the picket style. It consists of a series of vertical stakes made of wrought iron. Each of the stakes or pickets are parallel to one another and connected via horizontal railings to form the fencing structure. Often wrought-iron picket fences have ornamental caps atop each of the stakes or pickets. Arrowheads and fleur-de-lis are examples of shapes of these ornamental caps.


Bow and Hairpin


Wrought-iron fences may also be either a hairpin or a bow style. The shapes of the fence panels are the same for both these styles, that of an upside-down test tube, but the bows are generally wider than hairpins. Sometimes wrought-iron fences incorporate both hairpins and bows; in this case, hairpins are attached to the horizontal railings in a parallel fashion, and a larger bow surrounds each of the hairpins. Some wrought-iron fences even intersperse pickets with either hairpins or bows.


Scalloped Picket


A "scalloped picket" wrought-iron fence may describe two different styles. According to the Chicora Foundation and the Texas Historical Commission, such a style involves interspersing pickets with ornamental scrolls. There are also examples of wrought-iron fences with what you might normally associate with a scalloped design -- concave or convex dips or rises in the center of the fence formed by different lengths of pickets.


Ornamental Features


Due to the malleability of wrought iron and the individuality of each craftsman who traditionally formed fences out of the material, the range of ornamental features you may see on wrought-iron fences is enormous. According to the Historic Charleston Foundation, some common shapes associated with wrought-iron fences during the 18th and 19th centuries were fleur-de-lis, flowers, leaves, scrolls, and spears, also known as arrowheads. The "Old House Journal" offers an example lacking pickets, bows or hairpins; instead, the space between the railings includes elaborate scrolls forming a floral theme and zigzag patterns at the bottom. The New York Public Library's Photo Gallery offers examples of ornamental caps that look like birds' feet, crown shapes, hearts and multicurved pickets.

Tags: wrought-iron fences, wrought iron, wrought-iron fence, ornamental caps, cast iron, hairpins bows, horizontal railings

Monday, February 9, 2009

Make Pig Iron

Massive blast furnaces are required to make pig iron.


Pig iron is the most basic form of iron after it is first extracted from the iron ore. Previously, pig iron was cast into individual ingots then transformed into other forms of iron, or most commonly into steel. Pig iron is still created in order to make steel, but now the process often takes place at the same facility. The pig iron is created and immediately put into a secondary process while still in its liquid form to make the ultimately desired metal rather than wasting time casting it into ingots beforehand.


Instructions


1. Collect the iron ore. This is typically done through large scale mining operations that extract massive amounts of rock from the ground. The most common type of iron ore is known as Hematite. Magnetite and Taconite are also types of iron ore.


2. Load a blast furnace with the iron ore.


3. Load the blast furnace with the other required ingredients to make pig iron. These are coke or charcoal and limestone.


4. Run the blast furnace. The blast furnace jets air as hot as 1,000 degrees Celsius into the chamber where the coke, limestone and ore are contained. A chemical reaction then takes place. Carbon monoxide is created as the coke burns and the iron ore melts. The carbon monoxide then reduces the iron ore into actual iron. This is essentially the removal of the oxygen atoms from the iron. The limestone is also burnt during this process and becomes calcium oxide. This serves the purpose of purifying the iron by removing acidity.


5. Distribute the iron accordingly. In a modern day refinery, it will be kept liquid and moved on to a process to create steel. In older refineries, it would have been poured into a row of molds made in a dry sandy floor and cast into bars. The way these bars looked as they were being fed from a central trough of iron is where the name "pig iron" comes from. Workers through the process resembled piglets feeding from their mother.







Tags: blast furnace, blast furnace with, cast into, from iron, furnace with, iron Load

Remove Rust From Old Cast Iron Stove

Cast iron stoves have been around for a long time. These heavy and sometimes ornate stoves add a rustic charm to the kitchen. But keeping the cast iron stove rust-free is an ongoing household chore. Iron is very prone to rusting when it comes into contact with moisture or water. An old cast iron stove may have decades of rust on it if it was not maintained properly. Removing rust from an old cast iron stove is possible, but it does take time and lot of elbow grease. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions


1. Scrub off the rust with a wire brush or steel wool pad. Use a lot of force to get rid of stubborn rust both inside and outside the stove.


2. Open a window for ventilation. Put on rubber gloves and a white face mask. Apply rust remover to the rust stains on the stove. Leave on as directed by the label, usually 10 to 20 minutes.


3. Scrub at the rust with a steel wool pad. Wipe clean with damp paper towels. Rust remover contains strong acids, like hydrochloric acid, that break down the rust. These acids are toxic so use with caution.


4. Sandblast the cast iron stove. Rent a sandblasting machine from a home improvement center if you have experience sandblasting or hire a professional sandblaster. Sandblasting is the most effective way to remove extensive rust on a stove.

Tags: iron stove, cast iron stove, cast iron, rust with, Scrub rust, Scrub rust with

The Best Mini Lathe For Making Pens

A high quality mini lathe is required to make high quality pens.


Pen making a specialized area of fine machining requiring a specialized lathe. These lathes are small and easy to operate. However, the lathe must be very accurate, and durable. While a "cheap" lathe may do the job for a pen or two, its inadequacies, such as losing its grip on the workpiece, quickly become apparent. If you are involved, or wish to become involved, with pen-making, do it the right way by obtaining a quality lathe right from the beginning.


Mini Lathe Criteria


Pen making tutor, Kevin Brady, sets the criteria for good quality mini lathes (see reference 1, top left of page). Mr. Brady states that the lathe should have cast iron components, instead of aluminum or stamped metal components. This would include the head stock, the tail stock, and the bed. The headstock is the part the motor drives. The tailstock holds the other end of the pen. The bed is what the head and tail stock mount to. He further states that the lathe should be capable of operating at several speeds.


Penn State Lathes


Penn State Industries markets a variety of mini lathes that meet Mr. Brady's criteria (see reference 2). All the lathes feature cast iron components, and all operate at variable speeds. One lathe, the Turncrafter Commander, has computerized speed control. The turning speed is variable from 150 to 4,000 RPM, with a digital readout of the speed. This lathe also has a bed extension option, so long turnings can be made up to 40 inches long (see reference 3).


Metal Mini Lathe


If you want to make pens out of metal, a metal mini lathe is required. Mini-machinist Ty Hoeffer uses a unique metal turning mini lathe for his work. His lathe is the Central Machinery 7 x 10 mini lathe (see reference 4). It features all cast or machined steel components, and is adjustable for precision machine work. Its capacity of the workpiece is a 7 inch diameter circle with a length of 10 inches, hence its name. This is more than big enough to make pens. With this lathe, you can make some very decorative pens out of stainless steel, aluminum, or a variety of metals.







Tags: mini lathe, Mini Lathe, cast iron, cast iron components, high quality, iron components, lathe required

Friday, February 6, 2009

Decorate With Black Iron & Stainless Steel

Use a wrought iron gate as a piece of artwork.


If you're looking to create an industrial look with a hint of rustic charm in your home, consider decorating with stainless steel and black, or wrought iron. The smooth metallic finish of the stainless steel lends a modern look to a space, while black iron set a more rustic tone and combining the two metals can help to create an eye-catching decor. Choose accessories made of these materials and offset them with a natural color palette to make them stand out. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Choose a neutral paint color for the walls; either warm or cool shades will work. Colors to consider include eggshell, tan, ecru, moss green, pale yellow or even a faint shade of cool blue. Stainless steel and black metal will pop off of these neutral colors, making them ideal colors to use as a backdrop for the room you are decorating.


2. Use a combination of modern and rustic furnishings. In a living room, choose a couch with straight lines and plain cushions and flank it with rustic wooden rocking chairs. For the bedroom, consider a worn wood headboard and glass-topped bedside tables. If you're decorating a dining area, opt for a reclaimed wood table and surround it with tall, straight backed chairs.


3. Infuse a mixture of luxurious and natural textiles in the space. Cover the windows with floor to ceiling linen drapes and dress the bed with a velvet or satin comforter. Alternatively, you could cover the windows with silk curtains and drape a brushed cotton throw blanked across the back of a sofa.


4. Add stainless steel and black iron through the accessories. Transform an antique wrought iron gate into a work of art by hanging it on a focal wall. Suspend a stainless steel chandelier over a table. Wrought iron wall sconces can be hung on either side of a picture set in a stainless steel frame. Place bouquets of flowers in stainless steel vases and surround them with wrought iron candlesticks. Replace drawer pulls with a combination of iron and stainless steel pulls.







Tags: stainless steel, steel black, wrought iron, black iron, iron gate, stainless steel

Tuscan Style Home Decor

Tuscan Style Home Decor


Tuscan-style home decor embodies a warm Mediterranean feel with a splash of color and natural elements. Implementing heavy metals, marble and ceramics to the decorating theme of a room will give off a splash of Tuscan-style decorating. Transforming rooms--whether large or small--helps transcend a room into a charming villa nestled in the Tuscany countryside. Does this Spark an idea?


Kitchen


The kitchen is a great place to showcase Tuscan decor. One of the most recognized elements of Tuscan-style home decor is color. Burnt oranges, deep burgundies and hunter greens are popular background colors. Cabinets in dark-wood colors, such as mahogany or cherry, are also reminiscent of Tuscan decor. Showcasing brick or stone walls and floors brings an old-world feel to the kitchen area as well. Copper kitchenware should be showcased rather than hidden in cabinets. Copper Dutch ovens look right at home--even on top of stainless-steel stove tops. A collection of copperware can also be showcased against a wall or from a hanging rack. Instead of storing vintage wine inside a cellar or cabinet, use a visible wine rack to highlight Tuscan decor. Italian pottery can easily hold wooden cooking utensils and makes a great design splash for counter tops and butcher blocks.


Bedroom


The Tuscan bedroom should embody romance and endless style. Four-poster beds are a must-have. Dark silks and soft velvets are wonderful complements to canopies, as well as curtains. Wrought-iron elements can be brought in for wall decor, as well as candle holders. Pottery and ceramic urns can be filled with silk florals, as well as fresh plants--a great look that also adds romance to the room. Stained-glass windows or hangings add a touch of color to a dark room.


Living Room


The living room offers a location to show off a variety of styles related to Tuscan decor. Leather furniture is always a fine choice to replicate a Tuscan feel. Rich architectural structures such as columns, pillars and finials are reminiscent of Tuscan decor. Pieces that have chipped paint or are faux painted to appear weathered and worn are great accents for the living room. Wrought-iron tables are also great furniture accents to leather pieces. Still-life paintings, as well as tapestries set in florals or Italian country sides, are great choices for enhancing the living room.


Entryway


Potted trees or plants in ceramic urns are a great way to showcase a doorway. They can easily be trimmed and pruned into a desired shape, such as a spiral or square. Large ceramic statues are also a trait of Tuscan-style home decor. Planters filled with trailing vines and flowers add color and style to the entryway. A formal garden fountain greets guests with the sound of trickling water, lilies and koi.


Decorative Accessories


Decorative accessories are a simple and inexpensive way to bring Tuscan flair to a room. Dark-colored vases, dark-wood shelving, wrought-iron table stands with marble tops and red pillows add an old-world touch that catches the eye. Baskets filled with linen napkins can hold remotes and magazines. Murals can be purchased with a paint-by-the-numbers template or stenciled onto walls--this is a great way to add the Tuscan countryside to any room.







Tags: Tuscan decor, filled with, living room, Tuscan-style home, Tuscan-style home decor, ceramic urns