furniture like this, as it's not terribly comfortable.
Having a patio is a gift for any home. A patio gives you an outdoor space attached to your home that you can use for hosting private parties, taking in the night air or enjoying breakfast al fresco. You don't want to take such a special space in your home for granted, however. Take extra care and consideration in furnishing and decorating your patio so that it provides the height of comfort, making all members of your household want to spend as much time as possible out there. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Purchase outdoor chairs and couches made out of wicker, rattan or wood. Avoid wroughtiron furniture because even though it's suitable for outdoor spaces, it's not very comfortable. Make sure you purchase outdoor furniture that comes with super-soft, weatherproof outdoor cushions. Test each cushion before you buy, by sitting on each chair or couch.
2. Purchase outdoor accent tables; make sure that you buy enough so that each seating position has easy access to a table. This way, guests always have a convenient place to put their drinks and snacks.
3. Purchase a patio heater for nighttime. While this might seem like an unnecessary expense, it will double your usage of the patio, making it usable during chilly months. On the other hand, install a fireplace or fire pit if you're opposed to a patio heater. You just need something that generates warmth.
4. Purchase a weatherproof storage trunk for storing things like warm blankets that users of the patio can wrap themselves in at night.
5. Add candles and decorative lanterns to make the patio space a festive environment. Such tools will instantly make the patio a welcoming place to relax.
6. Add a patio umbrella to the middle of the patio for sunny days. This way, users can enjoy the patio without being blinded by harsh sunlight.
Tags: Avoid wrought, Avoid wrought iron, iron furniture, make patio, patio heater
Trying to remove unsightly brown rust stains from concrete or brick? Rain or sprinkler water can cause rust to drip from metal objects and stain your stone or brick driveway. Most household products won't do the trick when it comes to these stubborn stains. Here are a few tips on easily remove rust stains from concrete. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Clear the rust stained area of any excess dirt and debris. The area doesn't have to be perfectly clean. Sweeping it thoroughly with a household broom will do just fine.
2. Wet the rusted area lightly with water and then apply a generous amount of oxalic acid to cover the entire concrete rust stain. Oxalic acid is the active ingredient in wood bleach and can be found at your local Home Depot or hardware store next to the wood stains. It normally comes in a small plastic tub labeled "wood bleach". Oxalic acid is not made for this particular purpose, but it commonly used to get rid of rust stains on stone and concrete driveways.
3. Using a coarse nylon scrub brush, scrub the stain in a circular motion. It's important not to use a metal wire brush as it will scratch and discolor stone surfaces.
4. Let the oxalic acid soak into the rust stain for 30 minutes. While the oxalic acid is removing the rust stains from the concrete, soak up any excess water around the pile of acid. This will help prevent any runoff as oxalic acid is harmful to the environment.
5. Sweep the acid into a dust pan. Remove any left over acid with a wet rag or sponge. If the stain is still visible, repeat the process as many times as necessary for complete removal. Concrete cleaning often takes more than one application.
Tags: rust stains, oxalic acid, stains from, from concrete, rust stain, rust stains from
There are many different types of metal accessories: photo and art frames, framed mirrors, candle holders, clocks and different types of decorative wall art. As the sizes of such things vary, their weight will vary also. The weight of a metal accessory hung on a wall is its most important characteristic when you are preparing to hang it up. Hanging hardware is available for light, medium-weight, and heavy objects. Using the correct hardware will ensure that the accessory will not fall off of the wall and become a safety hazard. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Find the studs on the wall where you would like to hang the metal accessory. Mark their positions with a pencil dark enough so they will be easily found. Hold the metal accessory up to the wall; use a helper if the accessory is heavy. Have another helper choose the position of the accessory. Many metal accessories are designed with open framework. Use these open areas as hangers to avoid using other hangers that have to be fastened to the metal accessory. This is especially useful for heavy objects. Holding the metal accessory firmly in place, mark the wall where a nail can be placed into a stud in the framework. Remove the accessory from the wall.
2. Place a large nail into the wall for a heavy object at the pencil mark and let it protrude from the wall far enough to hold the accessory effectively. If multiple nails are needed to hold the object straight, pound them into the wall at this time.
3. Hold the accessory up to the wall again and hang it from the nails. If the nails need to be pulled out of the wall a little, put the accessory onto the floor, pull the nail out of the wall, and attempt to hang the accessory again. Step back to see if the accessory is hanging on the wall straight. Make adjustments as needed.
Tags: metal accessory, accessory wall, different types, from wall, heavy objects, into wall
Plastic lawn chairs are an inexpensive, practical solution to seating in any outdoor lawn, garden or patio area. The plastic is resilient, withstanding the effects of rain, wind and sunlight. After years of use, however, plastic chairs can accommodate a buildup of dirt and grime, and the colors can begin to fade from exposure to the elements. If you are seeing these effects in your plastic lawn chairs, it might be time to restore them to their classic cleanliness and brightness. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Remove the surface layer of dirt and grime with a regular washing. Fill a bucket with warm water and mix in a mild detergent such as dish soap or laundry detergent. Thoroughly wet your lawn chair with a garden hose. Soak the scrub brush in the soapy water, and scrub the lawn chair. Rinse with the garden hose to remove residual suds and surface dirt.
2. Purchase a specialty cleaner to work through stains or dirt and grime buildup. Most supermarkets, hardware specialty stores or home improvement stores will sell biodegradable cleaners that will not harm your lawn.
3. Apply the specialty cleaner. Amount of product to be used, diluting instructions and cleaning time will vary depending on the product, so read all directions and warnings before using.
4. Spray WD-40 directly onto the surface of your lawn chair to restore the shine and color. If you have a gallon of WD-40, put some into a bowl and use a cloth to apply to the lawn chair. Wear protective gloves if you wish to avoid direct contact with the WD-40. Wipe the surface clean with a lint-free cloth.
Tags: lawn chair, dirt grime, your lawn, garden hose, lawn chairs, specialty cleaner, with garden
A shabby chic nightstand is a DIY project that provides needed bedroom storage.
A nightstand can be so much more than a table for a bedside lamp and a growing collection of clutter. Use a storage piece to maximize the space next to the bed. A cabinet works well for a single bedside table. A dresser between two twin beds provides nightstands and clothing drawers for a children's room. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Find a ready-made cabinet in a discount furniture store or thrift shop, or move that old dresser from the guest room to the garage so you can work on it. Remove the drawers and hardware, and wipe the piece down.
2. Sand the existing finish lightly so it will grab a new coat of paint. If the furniture is black or has a dark stain, prime it before applying the top coat paint.
3. Spray or brush the first color of paint on the cabinet or dresser, and let it dry to a hard finish. For this color, choose something darker than the eventual top coat and let it echo or contrast with the rest of the colors in the room's d cor. Paint the fronts of the drawers the same way.
4. Brush crackle glaze over the edges of the drawers and the edges and some side and frame surfaces of the main cabinet, including the feet. As the glaze begins to get tacky, apply the top coat of color with a brush. Stroke in one direction only, and don't double-coat. Good top colors are cream, white or a light shade. Let the paint and glaze dry together.
5. Trace a stencil design on the drawer facings and on the top of the cabinet or dresser. The design can be a geometric pattern, alphabet letters, giant sunflowers or anything that echoes the rest of the d cor. For a dresser separating two kids' beds, use the stencil to label the drawers for each child to prevent squabbling and misdirected clothing.
6. Fill in the stencil design with hobby paint. These designs decorate the smooth surface of the top and drawer fronts. The crackle glaze will have crazed and revealed the color of the paint beneath it. When both stencil designs and crackle glaze are dry, add to this aged effect by lightly sanding the edges of the piece so all the paint colors show through. Use a light touch so you don't obscure the crackle glaze effect.
7. Cover the nightstand with a clear protective coat, and allow the piece to dry thoroughly. Replace the hardware with fantasy or reproduction hardware to complement the new design. Replace the drawers, and position the nightstand in the bedroom.
Once you have made the decision to have a gazebo in your yard, you will have to select a gazebo design. A vast array of gazebo sizes and styles are available, depending on what uses you have planned for the gazebo. Some gazebos are enclosed; others are open. Some have several stairs; others do not. Having some gazebo design ideas might help you to decide what design would work best for your yard. Does this Spark an idea?
French Gazebo
The French-style gazebo is designed to be used throughout the year. It is a fully enclosed structure with French doors and windows that open. You can even put screens on in the summer to allow the breeze to blow through. If you like, remove the windows entirely in the summer. The French-style gazebo will allow a lot of natural light into the gazebo. The gazebo is perfect for use as an office or breakfast room.
Japanese Gazebo
The Japanese Gazebo looks like an outdoor teahouse. It has a rectangular shape and is completely open. It is a very simple but elegant design. The Japanese gazebo would be the perfect gazebo in which to install a spa to relax in on a warm afternoon. It would also be a nice gathering place for outdoor tea parties.
Victorian Gazebo
The Victorian Gazebo is a classic. It has appeared in romantic scenes in several classic movies and musicals. It has a pagoda-style two-tiered roof, and it usually has three to five stairs leading onto the center deck. It is adorned with attractive spindle railings and arched entrances. It can have one or two entrances. Benches line the rails all the way around the inside of the gazebo.
Montpellier Gazebo
The Montpellier gazebo is built in a garden-house style. It is a square design and has traditional gazebo railings and features. It looks nice in a pool setting or in a rustic garden with lots of tall grasses and wildflowers. You often see the Montpellier in commercial settings, such as a hospital or office courtyard.
Carlisle Gazebo
The Carlisle gazebo looks like a fairytale gazebo. It has lots of lace trim around the arches and posts. It has a single-tiered roof and lots of extra details and etchings carved around the arches to give it a royal appearance. It would be an attractive structure to build near a lake or pond.
Tags: around arches, French-style gazebo, Japanese Gazebo, looks like, Victorian Gazebo, your yard
Whether you want to replace a faulty curtain rod or wish to simply make some interior decorating changes, changing a curtain rod is quite simple if you use the proper tools. Taking the current rod brackets down without damaging either the curtains or the wall is important, as is correctly preparing the wall for the new rod. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Remove the curtain rod from the brackets it is resting in. Remove the curtains from the old rod and place them on the new rod.
2. Release the screws that attach the brackets to the wall. Use a screwdriver to turn the screws counterclockwise until the brackets lift away from the wall.
3. Wash the wall areas where the brackets used to be attached, using warm, soapy water. This will remove any residue or scuffing left behind by the curtain rod and brackets.
4. Hold the new brackets up to the wall where you wish to mount them. Use a drill to secure them to the wall. While curtain rod kits come with screws designed to fit the particular bracket, if you find yourself without them, you can use any size screw that fits through the holes in the bracket.
5. Place the new curtain rod into the new brackets. The rod will either snap into place or rest on a large hook at the end of each bracket.
Hanging flower pots with your favorite flowers or plants adds a splash of color to any fence. Whether your goal is to improve curb appeal or to create a flower garden without taking up your yard, you can use hanging flower pots to achieve your goal. To improve curb appeal, face the pots toward the sidewalk or street. With the right tools, any do-it-yourself fan can transform a fence into botanical art. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Determine the height to hang the flower pots. If you want the pots to hang at the same height along the fence, use a measuring tape to measure the distance from the top of the fence to the spots where you want to hang the pots. Some people prefer to stagger the heights. Place the pots at a height that allows you to easily reach the flowers or plants for maintenance tasks like watering or fertilizing.
2. Understand work with your fence to prevent damage. With a wood fence, twist screws or hooks directly into the wood using a screwdriver. For masonry fences, use a drill to create pilot holes for the attachment pieces. For trellises, chain link or wrought iron fences, self-locking ties or wire works to secure the pots to the fence.
3. Incorporate your personal taste in the design by picking a flower pot to match the rest of your home. Clay and terracotta flower pots work well with wrought iron hangers, while plastic pots work well for plants that drape over the pot, hiding the plastic. The type of flower pot you choose to work with may determine the type of hanger you can use to support it.
4. Install an invisible hook to hang flower pots for fences; once you hang the pot, you can't see the hook. Most invisible hooks come with screws designed to work with any surface. The rim of the pot slides underneath the top clip on the hanger and the bottom of the pot should slide on top of the base clip. Manufacturers design the hooks to hold specific pot sizes, so be sure to get the size you need.
5. Use flower pots with hangers. Available in numerous designs from wood to baskets, you can find flower pots with wire or metal support systems around the pot. The supports connect to a central point above the pot. In order for the pots to hang correctly, attach wall brackets with hooks to the fence and hang the flower pots from the hooks.
6. Use flower pot hangers with brackets. The brackets straddle the fence and provide a hanging surface for the pots. To secure these, use the included screws. Depending on the style of the hanger, you'll screw a screw into the top of the fence or the backside of the fence to counterbalance the weight from the flower pot.
7. Adjust the flower pot as needed. Crooked pots can detract from the visual art you're trying to create. To help balance pots hung on wire, make sure the wire is at the lowest part of the section. For example, on a chain link fence, the wire or tie should be in the bottom V of the diamond shape.
Tags: flower pots, flower pots with, hang flower, hang flower pots, pots with
Discover how easy it is to hang curtains on drywall walls.
Drywall is a brand name of plasterboard interior wall covering used in many homes and businesses. Drywall is approximately ½-inch thick and consists of a white powdery substance known as gypsum that is packed between two thick pieces of paper. Drywall is an easy surface to attach wall décor and curtain rods to, because it is sturdy and will withstand heavier weights. The most difficulty you will face when hanging curtain rods on drywall walls is ensuring that the brackets for your curtain rods are even and level. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Determine the length of your curtain rods and the necessary distance between the curtain rod brackets by measuring the curtain rod with a tape measure. Once this distance is determined, use a ladder to reach the top of the window and measure the same distance across the top of the window.
2. Mark the length with a couple of pencil marks and then use the level to level up your pencil marks. Use a 4-foot or longer level that will stretch past the marks so that you can line up the marks and see how level your original mark was and then draw a second set of marks that are level with one another and approximately 3-inches or higher above the window frame. Make these second set of marks horizontal marks.
3. Align the brackets with the level, horizontal lines from the previous step. Align either the top or bottom of the brackets and use the included hardware to attach the brackets. Most brackets will attach using screws, though some may need to be hammered onto the drywall; save yourself some trouble and use screws that include wall anchors or plastic coverings that will prevent the screw from slipping out of the drywall. Use the appropriate tool with the hardware and attach the curtain rod brackets to the wall.
4. Place the curtain on the curtain rod and bunch it up into the middle of the curtain rod. Set the curtain rod into place on top of or inside the brackets and then un-bunch the curtains.
Create or decorate a mosaic birdbath while recycling broken or old CDs and DVDs. You can cover an existing birdbath in a reflective mosaic, or you can make one from scratch using garden supplies. Make the mosaic using a combination of other materials such as broken ceramics and flat-backed marbles. Create a random mosaic design on the birdbath with a little imagination and the right type of adhesives. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Select a terra cotta planter equal to the desired size of the base of the birdbath. Select a terra cotta saucer at least one size larger than the planter as the water container for the birdbath. The planter can stand upright or upside down as the birdbath base.
2. Paint the outside of planter and every part of the saucer with acrylic primer. Let the primer dry.
3. Paint the primed surfaces with your choice of acrylic paint. Most of the planter and the outside rim of the saucer will be covered with the CD mosaic. The mosaic will not cover the inside of the saucer; paint it to coordinate with your garden d cor and with the other materials in the mosaic design. Allow the paint to dry completely. Cover the inside of the saucer with another coat of paint as needed.
4. Center the saucer on top of the planter. Trace the outline of the planter rim on the bottom of the saucer with a marker.
5. Cut CDs and DVDs into small pieces with scissors. The shapes can be anything you like, but keep the individual piece sizes less than 1 inch square.
6. Attach the small CD and DVD bits to the outside of the planter with waterproof construction adhesive. Place the pieces label-side down so that the shiny reflective side is exposed. Grouting is not necessary for this mosaic design; place the pieces as close together as possible. Let the adhesive dry.
7. Flip the saucer upside down. Attach CD and DVD bits to the bottom of the saucer and to the outside rim. Do not attach the mosaic bits inside the outline you marked. The mosaic design will stop at the rim of the planter, and the saucer will sit evenly atop the planter. Allow the adhesive to dry.
8. Glue flat-backed rhinestones and/or flat-backed glass marbles on top of the CD bits to cover the crevices. There is no need to cover all of the crevices; use the colored glass and rhinestones as a decorative accent in your mosaic. Let the adhesive dry.
9. Glue the saucer to the center of the planter. Place the birdbath in the place you have selected for it and fill the saucer with water to finish the project.
Loft beds are a space-saving addition to a child's room or other area where space is at a premium. The standard twin-size loft design frees up more than 20 square feet of floor space for other uses. Different manufacturers, and even different models from the same manufacturer, use different specs for their loft beds. This means that each loft bed will install and assemble with its own quirks. However, many models use the same basic structure. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Clear the floor of the room where you want to install the loft bed. You'll need the area beneath the bed completely open, and room to move around it.
2. Unpack the components of your loft bed, including the assembly directions. Defer to the manufacturer's instructions for specific details that vary from these general steps.
3. Set one end piece on end leaning against a wall, preferably where it will be when the bed is assembled.
4. Attach one cross brace to the end piece. The exact method varies, but usually means screwing in a bolt using a hex wrench or screwdriver. Depending on the model, you may need to also hold a nut still using pliers or cross grips.
5. Maneuver the opposite end piece in place so that you can attach the free end of the cross brace. Screw it in place, but do not tighten down.
6. Attach the remaining cross braces. In nearly all models, the method for attaching any given cross brace is identical to attaching the others.
7. Slide the mattress support frame into position at the top of the loft frame. Screw it in place, usually using the same methods you did to attach the cross braces.
8. Tighten down all nuts and bolts using your screwdriver (or hex wrench) and pliers (or vice grip).
9. Attach any extra components according to the manufacturer's directions. Some common extra components include guard rails, ladders and decorative panels.
Tags: cross brace, cross braces, extra components, Screw place
Welding can be a hazardous undertaking without the proper equipment and preparation. Finding a workspace that can withstand the high heat of welding is not a simple thing. Most people that do much welding make their own work table. These tables are made of steel plate and can weigh between 300 and 400 lbs. This provides a large heat sink to absorb the heat generated in welding. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Cut the 2-by 2-inch square tubing to make two 4-by-6-foot frames to form the top and bottom of the table. These will support the steel plates that will give the table its stability. You can either make the frames a bit smaller in both dimensions or cut your steel plates a bit larger, but you need a small lip to overhang all the way around the table.
2. Make four leg pieces of the same square tubing. Mount the leg pieces at the four corners. You should also consider putting a central support between the top and bottom frames. The leg heights will be between 26 and 30 inches.
3. Drill holes in the 4-by-4-inch steel plates to attach the caster wheels. Attach the plates to the bottom of the frame and bolt the caster wheels to the plates. They must have a weight capacity of 1,000 lbs.
4. Bolt down the bottom plate to the frame. This may require drilling holes for the bolts to pass through the plate and attach to the bottom frame. Add the top plate to the table structure and bolt it down.
Traditional Mexican furniture varies in style, design and shape, from utilitarian vessels to sculptural benches. In addition to the ornate Spanish Colonial style of furniture, which is European-inspired, Mexican country antiques are also an important part of the country's heritage. Decide which type of look you want and go from there. Does this Spark an idea?
Essential Furniture Pieces
Start with an authentic piece of Mexican furniture. A few furniture pieces are found throughout nearly all homes in Mexico. These include two types of storage chests: the petaquillas, or small trunks which have handles, and the baules, which feature rounded or domed tops with matching bases and turned legs. Tables have simple tops with turned, painted, tapered or curved legs. The ladder-backed cantina chair is another Mexican-style staple.
Distressing Country Antiques
Mexican antiques are usually brightly colored with a distressed appearance. You can simulate years of wear and tear by distressing a newly painted surface. For an authentic Mexican look, start with a piece of furniture with a simple yet detailed look, like a bench with a scalloped back or a table with carved legs.
Begin the distressing process by first painting a thick coat of paint on the surface and waiting for it to dry. Then take a wire brush or a scouring pad and rub the surface, removing some of the layers of thick paint in a haphazard fashion. Sandpaper also can be used.
Spanish Colonial Style
When thinking of refinishing a piece in Spanish Colonial style, think elaborate and glossy. While the style of furniture is the same as Mexican country style, the finish is dark, rich and lustrous. Use either high-gloss paint or apply a shellac varnish to a just-painted piece. For an antique look, combine an aging varnish, which is specially formulated to look old, with a crackle varnish, which is specially formulated to simulate a cracked surface.
Cast iron pans provide a certain amount of charm when used in the kitchen, dining room and throughout the house as decorative pieces. Commonly used for cooking, cast iron pans require seasoning and care to bring out their traditional dark color and non-stick cooking quality. Used in a variety of environments, from campfires to restaurant kitchens, cast iron pans come in a variety of shapes and sizes that can add a decorative element to various rooms of your home. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Gather together a selection of cast iron pans. Whether you use your favorite cast iron pan or purchase new ones specifically for decorating, choose a variety of shapes and sizes for decorating purposes. Include cast iron pans with special meaning, including those from your travels or those that have been passed down in your family.
2. Hang cast iron pans in the kitchen and dining room. Display cast iron pans in a variety of ways. Hang pans from the wall using sturdy hooks. Arrange them in a small cluster or place them in various locations throughout the kitchen and dining room. Another option includes using a cast iron pot rack to display your cast iron pans. This puts them on display while still allowing them to be available for use on special occasions.
3. Tie in the cast iron theme throughout the house. Think beyond hanging them in the kitchen and dining rooms. Use a cast iron pan as a centerpiece by filling it with potpourri and placing a votive holder with candle in the center of the pan. Place small decorative cast iron pans along shelves and on tables. The small pans work well for holding keys and change.
4. Decorate with cast iron pans outdoors. Place citronella candles on cast iron pans for table decorations. Place colored glass pieces or rocks around the candle for an added touch. Use deep pans to corral common outdoor items, including bug spray, sunscreen and antibacterial lotion for easy guest access.
Tags: iron pans, cast iron, cast iron pans, cast iron pans, kitchen dining
Wrought-iron gates are a popular ornament in formal gardens.
Wrought-iron gates can be beautiful, adding an elegant touch to any yard, garden or driveway. Despite their visual complexity, most wrought-iron gates have simple hinges, consisting of a bent bolt that fits into a small shaft attached to the fence. You can hang your own wrought iron gate with less than an hour's work, though you may need the help of an assistant if the gate is too heavy to lift on your own. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Drill holes through one of the gate end-posts, if they are not pre-drilled already, at appropriate heights so the gate will hang with a clearance of 4 inches underneath. You will need two sets of two holes close together in most cases, though this will vary depending on your gate's construction. Use the hinge plate as a template to determine where the holes should be placed.
2. Hold a hinge plate in place against the upper pair of holes, so that the holes in it are aligned with those in the post. Run 5-inch bolts through these holes, securing the hinge plate to the post. Add a nut and washer to each bolt. Do the same with the second pair of holes, installing the other hinge plate.
3. Run hinge J-bolts through the pre-drilled holes in the gate itself and tighten the nuts. The bolts should be installed such that their bent portion points downward.
4. Place a ball bearing in the barrel of each hinge plate. Lift the gate and slowly lower its J-bolts into the plate barrels to complete the installation. Grease the hinge as necessary.
A level is invaluable for getting a curtain rod even.
A wrought iron curtain rod can add a distinctive look to a window treatment. With wrought iron, it's important to use mounting hardware strong enough to support the weight of the rod. If your curtain rod didn't come with hardware, buy a mounting kit rated to handle your curtain rod's weight -- look for brackets that are wrought iron, too, or that resemble it. As with any curtain rod, it's critical to hang it level, so that the curtain hangs evenly.
Instructions
1. Determine how high you should mount the wrought iron curtain rod. It should be high enough that the bottom of the curtain hits the wall below the window where you want it; depending on your preference and your curtains, this could be anywhere from the bottom of the window frame to the floor. Mark the wall directly above each top corner of the window at the necessary height.
2. Using a level, draw a line on the wall above the window connecting the marks on either side of the window. Make sure the level's bubble is between the lines to ensure that your line is level. Extend this line several inches beyond the side of the window.
3. Hold a level vertically at the top edge of the window frame or alcove. Mark the line you just drew directly above the window corner. Repeat for the other side.
4. Determine how far from the window you want to hang the mounting bracket. When you open the curtains to let in light, the curtains will gather inside the brackets. To maximize the amount of light your open curtains will let in, place the brackets far enough to the side that the curtains will not block the window. Mark the horizontal line above the window at the necessary distance from the marks you made in Step 3.
5. Hold a mounting bracket on the wall at one of the marks you made in Step 4. Mark the wall through the holes in the bracket and set the bracket aside. Drill pilot holes in the wall with a power drill. Unless you hit a wall stud, drill a hole big enough to accommodate a plastic wall anchor and push the anchor into the wall. Repeat for the other side.
6. Place the wrought iron curtain rod on one of the mounting brackets. Slide the curtain rings onto the rod. If your curtain hangs without rings, slide the curtain on the rod. Set the other end of the curtain rod on the other mounting bracket. Make sure that each end of the rod extends past the brackets the same distance; adjust as needed.
When iron reacts with oxygen it forms iron oxide, or rust. Some things cause iron to rust faster than others. Water, especially salt water, and heat speed up the formation of rust. When rust is formed, there's oxygen in the metal that can move in deeper and cause more rust. To get rid of rust on iron, you need to dissolve it or change the rust into black oxide and coat the iron with a material that keeps rust from forming. Here are a variety of methods to remove rust from iron.
Instructions
1. Wipe mineral oil on the rust. Use sandpaper or steel wool to remove the rust, brushing from the center to the tip. Try rubber abrasive sanding blocks to remove the rust in tiny crevices in the iron. Coat with wax or oil for protection.
2. Remove loose rust and spray WD 40, found in hardware and department stores, on the iron. It will fill the pores and crevices and prevent more rusting.
3. Sand blast or bead blast the rust as auto body repair shops do. Since sand blasting can remove good metal and harden the surfaces, use bead blasting for delicate parts. Immediately follow up with rust proofing or a protective coating with rust prevention treatment such as Boeshield T9, found at specialty wood suppliers like Woodworkers Warehouse.
4. Soak rusted items in phosphoric acid. It dissolves rust quickly, but the acid attacks iron very slowly. Use the shortest time that removes all of the rust. Naval jelly, which contains phosphoric acid, is often used to remove rust. It can be found at most hardware stores. Oxalic acid and hydrochloric acid can remove rust, but they eat into the iron quickly, so loss of metal is too likely. Follow phosphoric acid rust removal with treatment for rust prevention, such as Boeshield T9.
5. Remove rust with a method called electrolytic rust removal. Mix one tablespoon of sodium carbonate, found at pool supply stores where it's sold to raise the ph level, into one gallon of water. Connect the rusty part to the negative terminal of a 12-volt battery or charger. Hook up a scrap of iron or steel to the positive terminal. Soak the rust off the iron with the sodium carbonate solution. This method leaves a black oxide coating and doesn't remove any of the good metal. Use rust prevention such as Boeshield T9.
6. Soak several bags of black tea in two cups of boiling water. (Use more for larger rusty iron.) Soak the rusty iron for up to 8 hours.
7. Try a product that contains acid to change rust into black oxide. Rust X is made by Integrity Industries, and POR-15 is made by RestoMotive Labs. Remove loose rust, paint the Rust X or POR- 15 on the rusty part, and let it dry.
8. Soak the rusty item in Coca-Cola. Coke contains phosphoric acid, which removes rust.
Tags: phosphoric acid, black oxide, remove rust, rust prevention, such Boeshield
The patio furniture is an ideal thing to have to relax in the summer as far as outdoor is concerned. The patio furniture will need to have the cushions so that you sit and relax comfortably. That said buying the entire set of patio cushions along with the patio umbrellas can be a costly affair. You will need to find something affordable as well as one which can be easily bought without disturbing your overall budget. There are plenty of ways to buy these at cheap for your wrought iron furniture or your wicker furniture.
Read on for details on how you can save money on discount patio furniture cushions
Instructions
1. This is probably the best way to buy the discount cushions. Always buy the patio cushion at the end of the summer. Most retailers at that time put up huge discounts to get rid of the inventory. Yes this is a challenge as you will have to store these for the entire winter and the use the new cushion the next season but the fact is that you will get these are great discounted prices. If you buy at the start of the summer season the demand is huge for the patio cushions so no retailer puts up any sale. At the end of the season most retailers online as well as offline have clearance sales.
2. Online stores always give you a good option as a lot of these stores do not have any costs associated with the regular brick and mortar stores. So make sure that you check out the online discount stores for prices.
3. Garage sales can provide you with a great way to buy the cushions at relatively cheap prices.
4. You can buy cushions that are not exactly the same but are on sale. That way you will have to use your creativity and put them together in a style such that it looks very beautiful.
5. Never try to go for the designer cushions. Designer cushions are always marked with huge prices. Select the regular cushions and then if you want to have a different look then buy embellishment like lace or special edge runners that you can easily stick or sew to the edges. This way you have the different patio cushions at the regular prices.
6. It is not a mandatory thing that you have to change the patio cushions. In some cases your patio furniture without covers may look good and is also very comfortable. Check if your old cushion can be given a new looking with a good cleaning as well by replacing let us say the buttons and mending the torn edges. In the case of zipper cushions you can add new stuffing inside to have more "cush" in the old patio cushion itself.
7. Once the summer season is over put the patio cushions inside and store them in nice plastic bags. That will provide longevity to the cushions.
Tags: patio cushions, patio furniture, cushions that, have different, patio cushion, summer season
Wrought iron lawn furniture is not only durable and strong, but it also comes in a variety of styles that can fit a number of moods. Some styles are highly ornate and best used with a central theme while others are basic and easily incorporated into nearly any existing design. Black is one of the most common colors for wrought iron outdoor furniture, but some is available in white or other hues. Does this Spark an idea?
English Rose
English Rose wrought iron furniture is highly ornate, curved and delicate, or at least as delicate as wrought iron can be. The style features thin lines, scrolls and, as the name suggests, various rose or lattice patterns. The furniture backs are fairly low, often bordered with swirls and curved lines. The legs are also often curved and sometimes finished off with swirls and scrolls. The style is reminiscent of a country cottage or manor.
Tuscany
The Tuscany style of wrought iron lawn furniture is thick, large and very heavy. Thick, bold lines square off the pieces, which are often decorated with equally bold swirls, circles and scrolls. The style can be ornate, but it stays simple rather than overly fussy or crowded in its design. Furniture backs can feature thick scrolls, circles or oblong shapes and legs are generally straight or slightly curved outward. The style evokes old-world charm.
Monte Carlo
Monte Carlo wrought iron furniture is also thick, large and heavy, even more so than the Tuscany. Monte Carlo angles are square, rather than curved or rounded off, and it tends to be less ornate than other styles. Bold circles are about as fanciful as Monte Carlo gets, as it has a sleek, urban feel rather than something you'd find in a country garden. Furniture backs are often straight bars or a single circle outlined with a heavy frame, and the legs are short, thick and generally straight. Any circles will be heavy and thick, with very small openings and very wide lines. The style is harsh and brazen.
Milano
The Milano style of wrought iron patio furniture is similar to the Monte Carlo, but with a slighter lighter touch. Angles are less harsh, often featuring rounded edges, and lines are much more narrow. Furniture backs will often feature a simple outline and a line or two while the legs are slightly curved. The style is low and relaxed.
Lattice
The lattice style of wrought iron patio furniture is a standard that you can incorporated into other styles. Some companies may refer to the lattice style under names like Barcelona. On the most basic level, the lattice style features crisscrossed iron slats to resemble a lattice pattern. This pattern graces the furniture backs, tables, seats and is often topped off with a simple frame and fairly straight legs. The frame is generally thinner, letting the lattice take center stage. The style speaks of simplicity and strength and blends well with most other decor.
Tags: Monte Carlo, English Rose, lattice style, rather than, style wrought, style wrought iron, wrought iron
A wrought-iron chandelier is a distinctive decorative piece that gives a room an antique or rustic ambience. Because it is a very masculine type of decorator piece, homeowners may wish to give it a more feminine touch by draping it in folds of soft fabric. This creates visual interest and may give a nonfunctional wrought-iron chandelier a new lease on life in your bedroom, dining room or family room. Caution is required when decorating a functional chandelier with fabric because of potential fire risks. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
Bedroom
1. Hang the chandelier to help you to envision the draping of the fabric and to aid in taking accurate measurements if you intend to drape fabric from the fixture to the floor.
2. Purchase fabric to match the bedroom's decor. Select sheer white fabric to give the room an airy, tropical feel. If the chandelier hangs over the bed, hang fabric down from the chandelier to create a canopy. Choose crushed red velvet to provide a dramatic, gothic feel and a darkly sexy atmosphere.
3. Experiment with different ways of hanging the fabric from the wrought-iron chandelier. Try wrapping the entire armature with draped fabric to disguise the metal. Drape fabric around the center spoke only to highlight the ironwork.
4. Evaluate how the draping looks from different angles in the room, especially from the door and while you are lying in bed looking up. Adjust the fabric until you are pleased with how it looks from multiple perspectives.
Dining Room
5. Measure the distance from the bottom of the chandelier to the surface of the dining room table, as well as the distance from chandelier to any tablescape items such as candelabras or flower arrangements. This help you determine how much fabric you will need.
6. Coordinate the color of the fabric with the color of the tablecloth since that's a dominant decorative element in the room. Select fabric for draping that's more neutral if you change the tablecloth frequently to match the seasons or holidays. A sheer fabric is best as heavy drapery can obscure guests from seeing each other.
7. Weave the fabric through the chandelier, allowing it to fall gracefully toward the table. Evaluate how the draping looks from different angles in the room, including the entrances and while sitting in each chair. Adjust it as necessary.
8. Add colored strands of beads or ribbon to decorate for the holidays. For instance, string garlands of green ribbon and cranberry-colored beads to add personality to the chandelier for Christmas dinner.
Family Room
9. Keep the fabric high enough off the ground that pets and children won't be able to reach it.
10. Try braiding lengths of draped fabric or incorporating multiple fabric colors or textures to create a more dynamic focal point in the family room. Consider using the colors of your alma mater or favorite sports team for a more whimsical look. Weave the braided fabric through the arms of the chandelier.
11. Drape fabric in a neutral color for a family room with a more formal look. Wind the fabric around the arms of the chandelier if you want to cover the fixture, and wrap the chain as well.
Tags: family room, looks from, wrought-iron chandelier, angles room, arms chandelier, different angles
Calculating how much concrete you need for a project is simply a matter of math. You just need to know some basic geometry formulas and then plug your measurements into the formula. The only tools you need for this part of the project are a measuring tape, calculator, pencil and paper. Does this Spark an idea?
Preparations
You can take the measurements in inches, feet or yards, but all of them will have to be converted to the same type of measurement to get an accurate count. You are dealing with volume, and a large amount of it. Because of this, you want your final measurement to be in cubic feet or cubic yards. To convert inches to feet, divide the inches by 12. To convert inches to yards, divide the inches by 36. To convert feet to yards, divide the number of feet by 3. Finally, if you want to convert cubic feet into cubic yards, divide the number of cubic feet by 27.
Slabs and Footers
For a concrete slab, you need to know three measurements: thickness, length and width. Make sure all of the measurements are in the same units and then multiply them together. This works best for a rectangular slab or a footer. If you have an odd-shaped slab, then you should break the shape into smaller rectangular shapes. Then add the totals of the smaller shapes together to get the concrete needed for the entire slab. For example, you need a slab of concrete that is 12 feet wide, 10 feet long and 4 inches thick. The math is: 12 ft. x 10 ft. x (4 in./12 in. per ft.) ft. = 12 x 10 x .333 = 40 cubic feet.
Columns
The area of rectangular columns can be calculated the same way as a slab, but since most columns are circular, you need to use a different formula: hπr2. In this formula, h is the height of the column, π is 3.14, r is the radius of the column circle (half of the circle's diameter). For example, you need concrete for a column that is 12 feet high and is circular with a diameter of 1 foot. The math is: 12 ft. x 3.14 x (1 ft./2)2 = 12 ft. x 3.14 x (.5 ft.)2 = 12 ft. x 3.14 x .25 ft.2 = 9.42 cubic feet.
Steps
Steps are actually a series of smaller concrete slabs stacked on each other. This is the way you should calculate the volume. You need the ultimate height of the stairs, the ultimate depth, the height of each stair and width of the stairs. Consider each step a slab, calculate its volume and then add it to the volume of the other stairs. For example, you need concrete for three stairs that are 8 inches high and 8 inches deep and the total set of stairs will be 1 yard deep and 2 feet across. Since there are three steps, we'll make three measurements. The first step is 1 yd. x 2 ft. x 8 in. The second step is (1 yd. -- 8 in.) x 2 ft. x 8 in. The third step is (1 yd. -- 16 in.) x 2 ft. x 8 in. The first thing to do is to convert everything to the same units. In this case we'll use feet. So the equation is: (3 ft. x 2 ft. x .67 ft.) + (.78 ft. x 2 ft. x .67 ft.) + (.56 ft. x 2 ft. x .67 ft.) = 4.02 cubic ft. + 1.05 cubic ft. + .75 cubic ft. = 5.82 cubic ft.
Overage
When dealing with concrete, you need to allow extra for spillage or variations that might occur in the surfaces. Many people simply add 10 percent to their final numbers. Simply multiply your final concrete needs by 1.1 to add the 10 percent overage.
Tags: cubic feet, cubic cubic, example need, yards divide, calculate volume, concrete need, convert inches
Picket wrought iron fences have many different types of heads.
Wrought iron fences are both decorative and functional. Iron makes good fencing material because it is easily worked with. This allows builders to bend and shape the iron into decorative patterns while creating a functional and sturdy fence. Many wrought iron fences and gates are very decorative, including spirals, patterns or sculptural embellishments, all of which are typically also made from wrought iron. Does this Spark an idea?
What is Wrought Iron
Wrought iron has been one of the primary metals worked by blacksmiths for centuries. It has been supplanted by steel as the metal used most often in the metal crafting trades, however it is still valued for decorative work. Wrought iron is a combination of iron and slag. Products made from mild steel can approximate the look of wrought iron but not the ease with which it can be worked. The material is soft and easily shaped by the hammer, which allows for the creation of the elaborate work often seen on wrought iron fences.
Styles
Wrought iron fences are made in three primary styles. Variations and embellishments are placed on all of these, but most wrought iron fences are at least partially a member of one of these groups. Picket style fences consist of straight, vertical rails. Hairpin fences substitute curved, "U" shaped bars for the straight pickets, with the curve in the shape being placed at the top of the fence. The final style is a combination of the two called hairpin and picket style. Hairpin and picket fences alternate every second rail between a hairpin and a picket.
Common Embellishments
Although many craftsman have created truly unique fence designs, there are some common ways that wrought iron fences are embellished. On fences with pickets, the heads are crafted in many different designs ranging from simple spikes to ornate fleur-de-lis. Scroll-work appears on many fences. Floral and vegetative motifs are also seen. These range from the simple, such as a few wrought iron flowers, to the very elaborate, such as wrought iron vines complete with leaves, thorns and flowers snaking throughout the fence.
History
Elaborate wrought iron fences are an important part of many types of historic architecture. From the mid-17th century onward, the rich in France often decorated their property with highly artistic wrought iron fences and gates. As was often the case in Europe, France served as a leaping-off point for the style, and it spread throughout the continent. Eventually the style made its way to America where it is most notable in New Orleans, a city with a very strong sense of French style and hertiage.
Tags: iron fences, wrought iron, wrought iron, wrought iron, wrought iron fences, wrought iron fences, fences gates
Decorative plates have long been used to enhance the décor of a home, but they wouldn't be as great to display without a decorative plate rack. The wide variety of available stands makes it simple to find one that perfectly fits the style, size and overall mood of the plate. Decorative plate racks are sometimes as decorative as the plates themselves--or they can be not noticeable at all. Does this Spark an idea?
Function
The purpose of a decorative plate rack is to support and showcase a decorative plate. The racks themselves can also be decorative, but they are also available in fairly mundane varieties. Others are nearly altogether hidden, with barely a hint of the stand showing. After all, the plate stand is usually fully hidden behind the plate. A truly fancy stand may detract from the main artwork on view.
Types
The most common decorative plate racks are freestanding, which means they are propped upon a shelf or other flat surface to display the plate. These racks look somewhat like easels, with three feet at the base and a taller column protruding from the back feet, against which the plate is propped. Other racks are meant to hold multiple plates and look somewhat like an accordion, with a slot where several plates can be lined up and inserted. Still others will be flatter, and often use small springs and other attachments so they can secure plates to the wall.
Features
Decorative plate racks are made from a wide variety of materials. Freestanding racks can be constructed from wood, wrought iron, Lucite, acrylic, brass or other metals. Some will be plain, while others may have ornate knobs, swirls or other decorative features at the top or base surrounding the plate. Colors vary from clear to a deep black or shiny metallic.
Potential
Decorative plate racks do not have to be limited to holding only plates. They are great bases for smaller artwork or other ornamental items around the home. Plate racks also work to prop up unbalanced statues or other figurines. Plate racks that provide a flat base for the plate can double as candle holders, with a glass or metal candle base propped on the holder rather than a plate.
Considerations
Decorative plate racks should be chosen with several factors in mind. The most important aspect is getting a rack that is sturdy and large enough to hold the plate. The room layout is another consideration, which may determine if the plate should be displayed on a flat surface or hung from the wall. This will also help decide the color and visibility of the rack. For an overall effect, it is also wise to choose racks that match the general style and time frame of the plate. For instance, an antique, gilded plate may work best with a thin, gold rack, whereas a heavy, ceramic, southwest-style plate will fare better with a decorative wrought-iron or other heavy rack. Since the prices can vary, budget is also a factor.
PIg iron was widely produced during the Industrial Revolution.
Pig iron is a byproduct of the smelting process to make pure iron. The iron ore is heated using high carbon fuel coke, which results in pig iron with a very high carbon content, usually around 4 percent. During the Industrial Revolution, pig iron was widely used. Pig iron is now normally forged into wrought iron, which is a more useful material. It does have some useful properties, but because of modern metallurgical methods, better materials are now available.
Chemical Composition
All forms of pig iron contain between 3.5 and 4.5 percent carbon, along with various amounts of silicon, manganese, sulphur and phosphorous. Basic pig iron has less than 1.5 percent silicon, under 1 percent manganese, and trace amounts of sulphur and phosphorous. Haematite pig iron has similar amounts of these impurities, but a much higher silicon content, normally between 1.5 and 3.5 percent. The most common form of this materail, nodular pig iron, has no silicon and 0.05 percent manganese, sulphur and phosphorous.
Brittleness
Pig iron is a very brittle metal, owing to the high carbon content and the other impurities that form in it. The other elements found in pig iron also weaken its structure. Although iron is thought of as very solid, pig iron will split and fracture if it is dropped.
Melting Point
Pig iron has a much lower melting point than wrought iron or steel due to the high carbon content. This is not a problem in terms of the physical properties, but it does allow it to be made into low-grade grey iron, a mix of pig iron and scrap steel and iron.
Graphite
The impurities in pig iron lead to other materials forming during the cooling process. The iron and carbon combine to make iron carbide, and the remaining carbon forms graphite, similar to that found in pencils. If the pig iron is allowed to cool too slowly, larger amounts of graphite form, weakening the material.
Applications
Most of the pig iron produced as of 2011 is not used in the same way as it once was. It is usually forged to create wrought iron, or its carbon content is reduced to form steel. During the Industrial Revolution, before advanced forging techniques were discovered, pig iron was used for any number of molded iron products.
Tags: carbon content, high carbon, high carbon content, Industrial Revolution, sulphur phosphorous, wrought iron, between percent
A silent auction is a great way to raise money for nonprofit organizations. Not only can a silent auction gathering be a fun social event, it can be a successful profit-making venture. The key to getting event-goers interested and willing to make bids on silent auction items is to put together a wide array of attractive and appealing themed baskets. With a little creativity and some generous donations, themed silent auction baskets are a cinch to put together.
Instructions
1. Create a family fun basket. Buy five to ten board games and stack them from largest to smallest. Place the games in an extra-large cellophane gift basket bag. Add some boxes shaped like movie theater popcorn containers and fill with sweets and a box of microwave popcorn to fill in empty space. Gather the top of the cellophane bag and tie it closed with a bright ribbon.
2. Create a gardener's basket. Fill a wheelbarrow with a two or three small bags of potting soil. Add gardening gloves, gardening shoes, a tote of gardening tools, knee mat, and a gift card to the local gardening center.
3. Create a tailgating basket. Start with a large tailgate cooler or tin drink bucket for the base. Add two stadium seat cushions, a football, napkins, paper plates, paper cups, two six-packs of soda, snacks, and a gift card to a local sub shop. Place everything in an extra-large cellophane gift basket bag and secure the top with ribbon that matches the local sports team's colors.
4. Create a restaurant lover's basket. Purchase a wrought-iron photo tree. Place gift cards to area restaurants in each photo holder. Place the photo tree into a small cellophane gift bag and tie the top with decorative ribbon, pulling the cellophane as tight as possible so that the gift cards can be viewed easily.
5. Create a pamper basket. Fill a square wicker basket with bath oils, lotions, candles, a light music CD, a box of assorted teas, and gift card to a local spa for massage and manicure. Complete the basket with a cellophane gift bag tied with a pink and green ribbon.
6. Create a crab feast basket. Fill a wicker basket with a large plastic tablecloth or butcher's paper, paper towels, wet wipes, crab mallets, two six-packs of beer, and a gift card for one or two bushels of crabs. Tie it all up into a cellophane basket bag and secure with a ribbon with a nautical theme.
Tags: cellophane gift, gift card, silent auction, basket Fill, basket with, card local
Potbelly stoves are small, wood-fired stoves that were common in homes, schools and stores in the 1800s and early 1900s. They doubled as heaters and as cooktops. Originally called Cannon stoves, they were nicknamed potbelly stoves because of their curvy middle bulge, which looked like a potbelly, or protruding belly. Potbelly stoves are similar in appearance to other types of stoves, including cylinder stoves, but noting a few crucial differences will help you tell if the antique stove you see is a potbelly stove. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Look at the main wood burning area. The overall shape should look like an hourglass in reverse; instead of bulging ends that taper in the middle, you should see one bulge in the middle that is tapered on top and slightly less so toward the bottom. This section will have a door in front where you can load wood, and a second door in front but toward the bottom, which you open to collect ash. If the top of the middle section doesn't taper in but instead remains as thick as the middle, you have a cylinder stove. The center of the middle section should have a rim all the way around called a skirt rail.
2. Check the top of the stove for a flat, plate-like surface. The middle section of a potbelly stove will taper toward the top, then expand into a wider flat area suitable for heating up a pan of food. If the top appears domed, see if the dome is a removable cover for the cooking surface.
3. Look around the stove for an exhaust pipe. Sometimes, the pipes are obvious and stick straight up from one side of the top plate, while other times the pipe is attached to the side of the stove. The pipe should lead to a vent in the wall or ceiling if you are looking at at a potbelly stove that is installed and in use.
When you're building a fence around your yard, there are many different types from which to choose. Ideally, the fence will complement your home's exterior. For example, a stucco fence works well with a stucco home. If you don't want a solid stucco fence surrounding your home, you may erect pillars constructed of concrete and cover them with stucco, then complete the fence with wrought-iron railings. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
Building the Pillars
1. Drive stakes into the ground and tie string to them to mark the fence line. Mark the location of the pillars on the ground along the fence line, keeping spacing them according to the lengths of iron railing you have selected.
2. Dig a hole 8 inches deep and 2 feet square for each pillar. Level the soil inside the holes.
3. Pour 2 inches of gravel into each hole, then level it and tamp it to compact the base.
4. Mix concrete following the manufacturer's instructions and fill each hole with concrete. Smooth the surface by dragging a 2-by-4 board across the top of the concrete. Allow the concrete to cure for at least four days.
5. Mix mortar for the cinder blocks, and place it around the perimeter of the concrete base, applying it wide enough to cover the width of the cinder blocks. Apply a layer 1/2-inch thick.
6. Set the first cinder block into the mortar, and place a level on top of it. Adjust it, if necessary, to make the block level.
7. Apply 1/2 inch of mortar to the side of the cinder block that is not on the edge of the slab, and place another cinder block in the mortar on the slab against the first block, keeping it level with the first block. When placing the second block, rotate it so that it forms a 90-degree angle with the first block. Lay two more blocks on the slab using the same technique. When finished, there will be four blocks around the perimeter of the slab, with a small, open area in the center.
8. Continue laying blocks until you reach the desired height for the pillar. Stagger the blocks in each row so that the joints in consecutive rows are not aligned. Construct all of the pillars using the process. Allow the mortar to set for the time specified on the packaging.
9. Spray the pillars with a hose to dampen the cinder blocks. Adding moisture to the blocks prevents them from drawing moisture out of the stucco as it cures, which can cause the stucco to crack.
10. Mix a batch of stucco using 4 parts sand and 1 part mortar, stirring it until it has the consistency of mashed potatoes.
11. Place two scoops of stucco onto a hawk - a metal tray that contains a handle extending from the bottom of the tray and is used when applying stucco and plaster.
12. Spread the stucco onto one side of the first pillar, starting at the bottom of the pillar and working toward the top. Apply a layer of stucco about 1/4-inch thick to each side of the pillar.
13. Wipe a sponge trowel over the surface of the stucco with circular motions to help prevent the stucco from cracking. Scratch grooves into the stucco with a comb-like tool called a scarifier. The grooves will help the top coat of stucco stick to the base coat.
14. Apply the base coat of stucco to all pillars, and allow it to set for the time specified on the packaging.
15. Mix the top coat of stucco using 3 parts stucco sand, 1 part cement, and pigment to color the stucco.
16. Cover the pillars with the top coat of stucco, using the same process you used for the base coat. Apply the top coat in a layer 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch deep. Cover the pillars with plastic for six to eight weeks as the stucco cures. Every few days, remove the plastic to spray the stucco with a light mist to keep it damp, then cover the pillars again.
Installing the Railings
17.Measure and mark the top edge of the railing on each side of the pillars at the height you want the fence.
18. Hold the railings in place between the pillars with the help of an assistant and mark the bolt holes for the railings on the pillars.
19. Drill pilot holes into the pillars where you marked them for bolt holes, using a hammer drill fitted with a masonry drill bit.
20. Remove the bolts from the concrete sleeve anchors and slide the sleeves into the holes in the pillars. If you experience difficulty, tap them into the pillar with a hammer until the surface is flush with the pillar.
21. Lift the first section of railing into position between two pillars, aligning the bolt holes on the railings with the holes in the pillars. Bolt the railings into position by tightening them with a socket wrench. Don't overtighten the bolts, however, as doing so can break the anchor sleeves.
22. Install the rest of the railing, using the same process.
Tags: coat stucco, pillars with, base coat, bolt holes, cinder block, cinder blocks, first block
Look for lids with peaks on the inside, indicating a self basting feature.
For preparing a stew or roast, opt for cast iron instead of traditional baking pans. Cast iron pots have a heavy construction that slowly transfers the heat to the food, ideal for long, slow cooking methods. An option for some cast iron cooking vessels is the self basting lid. Choose these lids to cover cast iron pots used for long, moist cooking such as braising or stewing for moist and juicy results without the effort of continuously basting during cooking. Does this Spark an idea?
Self Basting Cast Iron Lids
Self basting cast iron refers to the specially designed lid of the pot with ridges or spikes on the inside. These lids are designed to catch steam as it rises in the cooking container and condense the steam back into water on the inside of the lid. From there, the water drips down the spikes and back down onto the food like water from a stalactite in a cave.
Features
When choosing a self basting lid for a cast iron pot, opt for a lid that fits tightly onto your pot. Without a tight fit, steam escapes, reducing the amount of condensation inside the pot and lessening the effectiveness of the self basting lid. Look for a high dome shape on a self basting lid. Older, non-self basting lids will be flatter, to hold coals to turn the pot into an oven, but self basting lids will be taller and peaked for steam to drip inside the pot.
Use
Place the self basting lid on the cast iron pot for cooking moist foods such as stews, braised meats or soups. For cooking foods such as pies or biscuits in a cast iron pot, leave the lid off for baking the food in the oven. At a campsite or on top of the stove, wrap a towel around the inside of the lid before covering the pot. Fold the excess towel on top of the lid to keep it out of the fire. The closed lid turns the cooking pot into an outdoor oven, and the towel catches condensation, keeping baked goods from becoming soggy as they cook.
Care and Cleaning
Self basting cast iron lids are made of the same cast iron as the pot and require the same care. For unlined lids, wipe off excess liquid after cooking when the lid is cool. Wipe the inside of the lid with a thin layer of melted vegetable shortening to prevent rusting in storage. Line the inside of the lid with a paper towel to protect the metal and absorb any extra moisture in the storage environment. Avoid washing cast iron with large amounts of soap because the pores in the lid can trap the soap and release it into condensing steam and onto the food when it is used next for cooking.
The base of an old sewing machine makes an interesting dining table.
No need to spend a fortune on a clever dining table for a small space. Some imaginative recycling and savvy shopping will turn a castoff into an original table that doubles as a conversation piece. Apartment Therapy featured a table made from a vintage cast-iron sewing machine base and a cheap ready-made tabletop that's the perfect bistro size for a dining alcove or the corner of the kitchen. You could put your own spin on it with a beautiful piece of wood, a glass top or mosaic tile-covered plywood. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Set up a work area in a yard or the garage. Choose a well-ventilated space with good light out of direct sun. Cover the floor or ground with a plastic drop cloth or painting tarp. Tape plastic drop cloths over any walls, furniture or upper areas that spray paint or spatters might reach. Open windows or a garage door for cross-ventilation if you work inside. Use a paper dust mask to avoid breathing in any paint spray or sanding dust.
2. Clean the base of a vintage wrought iron sewing machine. Use an ordinary, all-purpose household cleaner and a sponge to wipe down the base. Remove any soap residue by rinsing the base with clear water and a clean sponge. Dry it with a clean towel or rag.
3. Sand the base lightly, once it's dry, first scrubbing with a metal brush to remove any flaking paint or surface rust. Go over the piece with fine-grade sand paper to create a rough surface the new paint will adhere to easily. Wipe the base free of sanding dust when you are finished.
4. Paint the sewing machine base with a rust-inhibiting primer. Don't sand between coats---once the primer is dry, apply a top coat right over it. Use a metal paint and brush it on for a thicker, lasting finish and good coverage. Don't work in direct sunlight. Watch for any drips and work them right back into the wet paint with the brush so your base coverage is smooth. Let the table base dry while you tackle the table top.
5. Choose the table top and size to suit your space. A narrow rectangular top will accommodate two chairs. A round or a square top allows room for four chairs. Find an inexpensive wooden table top in a thrift store or home improvement center or select a quality piece of attractive wood. Wash or wipe down the table top with a household cleanser and sponge to remove any surface dirt or dust before painting
6. Paint a ready-made or second-hand tabletop to match the table base or use a lighter shade of the base color. Use a glossy water-based acrylic for a surface that will be easy to wipe off.
7. If the top is unfinished wood and you want to stain it, lightly sand the wood with fine-grade sandpaper to provide a good surface for the finish. Wipe off the dust. Paint a coat of wood conditioner on the tabletop with a cheap brush and let it dry for 15 minutes before applying stain with a new brush. Stain will stain you, too, so wear gloves. Brush the stain on with and against the grain and, for a light color, wipe it right off, with the grain, using a clean rag. For deeper color, leave the stain on five to 10 minutes longer before wiping it off.
8. Once the tabletop is dry, paint or spray on a protective coat of clear lacquer.
9. Set the top on the base once both pieces are dry. Use a pencil to trace inside the holes in the base for screws, marking the spots on the underside of the table top. Remove the top from the base and lay it flat. Tap a nail a fraction of an inch with a hammer into the wood at each mark as a guide for the screw.
10. Replace the top on the base, lining up the starter holes with the screw holes. Use wood screws that are shorter than the thickness of the table top to fit the holes. Screw the top to the base from below.
11. Move the table by lifting it at the base. The base is fairly heavy and picking up the table by the top could rip the screws out of the wood. Position the table in the dining alcove or breakfast nook and add two to four chairs or stools for seating, depending on the configuration of the top.
Tags: sewing machine, base with, dining alcove, dining table, four chairs, machine base
Wrought-iron furniture must be refinished when it rusts.
Cast- or wrought-iron furniture, often reminiscent of an earlier time, adds a charming accent to your yard or patio. It is delicately ornamental and, if cared for properly, will last for decades. Wipe the furniture down with white vinegar once a year, then cover with a coat of car wax to help preserve the finish and prevent rust from forming. When rust does creep in---and it will---it's time to refinish the furniture. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Scrub all the surfaces of the furniture to get rid of rust and flaking paint, using a steel wire brush. If you see areas where the paint has bubbled, rust is under the paint. Use a screwdriver to break through the paint and scrub with the wire brush. You may need to use a coarse file to remove rust from heavily-damaged areas.
2. Spray the furniture with a rust remover to get rid of rust you may have missed. Wear your protective gear (heavy gloves, goggles, and a respirator).
3. Sand the surfaces lightly with a fine-grit sandpaper.
4. Apply a coat of oil-based clean metal primer and let it dry according to the manufacturer's instructions. Wear your protective gear for this step. Clean your brush with the appropriate solvent and rags.
5. Paint or spray with rust-resistant paint. Follow the manufacturer's directions for how many coats you should apply and what the drying time between coats is. Wear protective gear when you are applying the paint, which probably contains toxic solvents. Clean yourbrush with the appropriate solvent and rags.
Tags: protective gear, appropriate solvent, appropriate solvent rags, brush with, brush with appropriate, Clean your
Swapping out the toilet flange does not require removing the tank.
A house holds many appliances that use flanges, such as sinks, showers and toilets. The sink and shower flanges are simple to replace. Sink flanges are held in place with a nut beneath the sink. Most tub and shower flanges unscrew from above the tub. Replacing the toilet flange is the most difficult of all the flanges. Changing out the toilet flange requires removing the toilet and installing a new wax ring. Never reuse existing sealants, such as plumber's putty on the sink or shower drains, or the wax ring on toilets. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Turn the water supply line off and drain the toilet by flushing it. Disconnect the supply line from the base of the tank.
2. Loosen and remove the retaining nuts located on the lower sides of the toilet, using an adjustable wrench. Set the nuts, washers and any decorative caps to the side. Lift the toilet free of the retaining bolts and lay the toilet carefully on its side.
3. Scrape off the existing wax ring from the base of the toilet with a hand scraper or similar tool. Press a new wax ring onto the drain connection with the rubber gasket pointing down and away from the toilet.
4. Unscrew the three retaining screws located on the toilet flange. Set the screws to the side. Lift the flange up and away from the main drain. Remove the toilet retaining bolts from the long channels in the flange and set the bolts to the side.
5. Place a new flange into the drain and align the screw holes with the existing holes in the floor. Thread the retaining screws back into place. Wiggle the flange to ensure that it is solidly engaged and stable. Any movement indicates that the retaining screws need to be tightened. Slide the toilet retaining bolts back into the long channels until the bolts sit at the ends of each channel.
6. Lower the toilet onto the retaining bolts and flange. Place the washers on the bolts and attach the retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts down by hand. Wiggle the toilet slightly to fully seat the wax ring. Tighten the nuts down with an adjustable wrench until the toilet does not move at all. Replace any decorative caps. Connect and turn on the water supply line.
Wrought-iron fences are highly decorative but usually carry a steep price tag.
When choosing a fence for their property, homeowners have many options. Wrought-iron fences are one of the most distinctive types of fencing available, and they are used in a wide variety of settings. If you want to install a wrought-iron fence at your home, however, consider the type of fencing's pros and cons. Does this Spark an idea?
Appearance
Many homeowners choose wrought-iron fencing for their property because of its highly decorative, ornamental appearance. It is much more striking than wood or vinyl fencing, and it works well to create an elegant, formal look for a home and yard. Wrought-iron fences are available in a variety of styles, ranging from simple, delicate patterns to thicker and more curved designs. Some companies offer custom wrought-iron fences, allowing you to design your own wrought-iron fence and include flowers, stars, animals and other ornaments.
Durability
Durability is another benefit of wrought-iron fences. Unlike wood fences, which are subject to rot and moisture damage that may require replacing portions of fencing, wrought-iron fences have a long lifespan. Their sturdiness makes them ideal for use as security fences because once they are installed, they are extremely difficult to tear down.
View
Wrought-iron fences are designed with thin metal bars that have spaces between them. As a result, they are ideal for locations with impressive scenery because they do not block views. If your yard is bordered by trees, flowers, mountains or water, your wrought-iron fence will protect your property but still allow you to take in the scenic views without obstructing them.
Expense
One of the most significant drawbacks to a wrought-iron fence is that it is one of the most expensive types of fencing. In particular, custom-designed wrought-iron fences may break most budgets. In addition, unlike wooden or vinyl fencing, which many homeowners install themselves, a wrought-iron fencing requires such a precise installation that professional installation is recommended. As a result, homeowners cannot save money by installing their wrought-iron fencing themselves.
Rust
Wrought-iron fences require quite a lot of maintenance, If not properly cared for, they can develop rust very easily. Repairs can be costly, and, in extreme cases, rusted-out parts may require replacement. A wrought-iron fence can be somewhat protected from rust if it is repainted every few years.
No Privacy
Because the design of a wrought-iron fence serves to preserve views around a property, it has the consequence of robbing the home and yard of privacy. Neighbors and passersby are able to see through the fence completely. So everything on the interior side of the fence is visible from outside the fence.
Tags: wrought-iron fence, wrought-iron fencing, highly decorative, home yard, their property
Outdoor planters and urns are filled with soil, watered daily and left out in the wind and rain. It is no wonder that a cast-iron planter will be in need of repair. One of the biggest threats to cast iron is moisture. Unprotected iron will rust quickly. Remove the rust and get your iron urn back into tip-top shape with a few simple steps. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Set a hose nozzle to its highest pressure setting. Hose down the planter to clean the urn thoroughly and remove dirt and debris. Towel off the standing water and let the urn dry overnight.
2. Scrub any flaking rust with a steel-bristled wire brush. Remove as much rust as you can.
3. File stubborn rusted areas with a metal file. Use the file on the straight, flat areas of the planter. Sand the rounded corners with 80-grit sandpaper. Wipe away the sanding dust.
4. Put on goggles, rubber gloves and a mask. Spray phosphoric acid on the urn. The acid will turn any invisible rust into a crust of iron phosphate. Let the acid work on the rust overnight.
5. Scrub the iron phosphate crust with a steel-bristled wire brush. The crust will fall off of the urn easily. Dust the urn with a damp cloth.
6. Spray-paint the urn with a metal spray paint. Choose paint that offers rust protection. Apply three to four light coats of paint. Spray in a steady back-and-forth motion, overlapping each pass of the spray slightly.
Tags: iron phosphate, overnight Scrub, steel-bristled wire, steel-bristled wire brush, wire brush, with metal, with steel-bristled
The Cincinnati area offers newlyweds and couples several options for romantic accommodation. Tour downtown Cincinnati on a horse-drawn carriage, cruise along the Ohio River on a riverboat, take in a stunning view of the Cincinnati-Covington greater metropolitan area or take in the stunning views of the river and the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains from the air on a hot air balloon excursion. Whether you want to tour the attractions of the city or stay in your room, Cincinnati has a lot to offer.
The Cincinnatian Hotel
Guests in the wedding suite of the downtown Cincinnatian Hotel enjoy complimentary champagne and chocolate-covered strawberries upon arrival. The king-sized four-poster or sleigh bed dons luxury linens in an elegant and warm decor. The suite bathroom provides a two-person whirlpool surrounded by Italian tile and marble, separate shower with dual shower heads, granite vanity with two sinks and bathrobes. The AAA four-diamond rated hotel offers complimentary breakfast for newlyweds either in the dining room or via room service. The on-site Palace Restaurant serves legendary cuisine for breakfast, lunch, dinner and afternoon tea. The full-service concierge service scatters silk rose petals in the suite upon request.
The Cincinnatian Hotel
601 Vine St.
Cincinnati, OH 45202
513-381-3000
cincinnatianhotel.com
Radisson Hotel Cincinnati Riverfront
The Radisson Hotel overlooks Cincinnati from across the river in downtown Covington. The spa suite offers two contemporary rooms separated by French doors; the bedroom, which contains the two-person whirlpool spa tub, a king-sized Sleep Number bed with down comforter and the parlor sitting room with flat-screen TV with cable, mini-fridge and wet bar. Enjoy dinner atop the Radisson Hotel in the largest revolving restaurant east of Las Vegas overlooking the metropolitan Cincinnati-Covington area, the Ohio River and the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains of northern Kentucky. The hotel offers a ballroom to accommodate up to 500 people, wedding cake and rehearsal dinner services.
Radisson Hotel Cincinnati Riverfront
668 W. Fifth St.
Covington, KY 41011
800-395-7046
cincinnatiradisson.com
Weller Haus Bed and Breakfast
Guests of the Weller Haus Bed and Breakfast choose between three themed Jacuzzi suites, each deserving of the honeymoon suite distinction. A country cottage-inspired suite offers touches such as white wrought iron, bright and airy neutrals and a canopy bed. Another provides a private entrance and porch with rocking chairs, a four-poster bed and 1920s art deco touches such as rich, dark woods and a mirrored wall surrounding the hot tub. Relax in the third suite inspired by clouds in the sky with a bright and airy, contemporary spa atmosphere. Each suite provides two rooms, fireplace and microwave and refrigerator. The inn also offers an add-on package that includes an adult board game, chocolates, fresh flowers and champagne.
Weller Haus Bed and Breakfast
319 Poplar St.
Bellevue, KY 41073
859-391-8315
wellerhaus.com
Tags: Radisson Hotel, Cincinnatian Hotel, Haus Breakfast, Weller Haus, Weller Haus Breakfast, Appalachian Mountains