Friday, April 29, 2011

Tools Made Of Iron

Iron was used to make the first railroad tracks.


Pure iron is a soft metal and rarely found in nature. The only pure iron known to exist comes from fallen meteorites. Iron is found in other elements, iron oxides being the most common. The minerals closest to the earth's surface have the highest iron content and are called iron ores. Iron ore is processed into different types of iron. Pig iron is limited in what it can be used for so it is converted into steel alloys. Cast iron and wrought iron are two common forms of iron in production today.


The Iron Age


The Iron Age began about 1000 B.C. During that time, progress was dependent on tools made of iron. This was largely the case until the Industrial Revolution which began around the middle of the eighteenth century. The Industrial Revolution brought about large mechanical production systems that produced machine tools and other equipment made from iron and steel.


Mid 1800's


The mid-1800's brought about many changes in the metal industry. The Bessemer process was invented which converted iron to steel. Pig iron was placed in a converter and blasted with extremely hot air. The Bessemer converter produced a high quantity of steel used for ships, railroads, bridges and buildings. A problem still existed with this new steel until Robert F. Mushet, an English metallurgist discovered fix it. The steel was brittle due to containing oxygen, phosphorus and sulfur. Mushet discovered that adding an iron alloy that contained manganese would remove the oxygen and that adding limestone would remove the phosphorus and most of the sulfur.


Mid to Late 1800's


From 1864 to 1877 improvements were made by adding scrap steel to molten iron, which created a hardened steel alloy that quickly became popular for commercial use. In 1877 Mushet made a high carbon steel that gave tools a longer life and in 1888 a chromium steel alloy was also produced. In 1882 a hardened manganese tool steel was invented but not put into production until a few years later.


Early to Mid 1900's


The electric furnace was invented in 1879 but was not used much until around 1910 due to the high cost of electricity. From 1910 to 1954 the electric furnace was used for nearly all steel production. 1954 brought about the first oxygen furnace. According to Science magazine, most of today's steel is made via an oxygen or electric furnace.


Modern Day


Modern tools are made from hardened steel alloys. Iron tools have not been produced since the mid 1800's. Branding irons are still made of cast iron as well as cast iron cookware. Iron is too soft and brittle for use as tools although iron ore is used along with other metals to form modern day steel. Wrought iron is currently used in the production of ornamental products.

Tags: brought about, electric furnace, alloy that, cast iron, hardened steel, Industrial Revolution, iron steel

Thursday, April 28, 2011

What Types Of Outdoor Furniture Should I Look For

What Types of Outdoor Furniture Should I Look For?


There are many styles and designs of outdoor furniture, including aluminum, wrought iron and wood. Before you choose a particular type, look for aspects such as durability, maintenance requirements and weather-resistant materials. It's also important to make sure outdoor furniture is comfortable, especially if you spend a lot of time using it. You want your outdoor furniture to last so you don't need to replace it for a long time. Does this Spark an idea?


Aluminum


Aluminum outdoor furniture is durable, rust-resistant and easy to take care of. It comes in many styles, such as garden benches, outdoor dining sets and chairs. Some types of outdoor furniture such as contemporary or modern are made from aluminum tubing. It has a powder-coated finish that's thicker than paint and makes it resistant to weather elements and scratching. Outdoor furniture made of aluminum tubing comes in many choices of colors. Cast aluminum also is used to make outdoor furniture into elegant and complex designs. This type of furniture comes in solid colors or a mixture of several colors.


Wrought Iron


Outdoor furniture made of wrought iron is very heavy and adds beauty to your yard or garden. This type of furniture is durable, but it's hard to move. It's an ideal choice if you want to keep your furniture in one spot for a long time. Wrought iron outdoor furniture is created by bending, hammering and shaping the iron by hand. High-quality wrought iron is very thick. This type of outdoor furniture needs to be covered or it will rust, unless it has a powder-coat finish that protects it. Wrought iron outdoor furniture is easy to clean.


Wood


Cedar furniture is great outdoor furniture because it's resistant to insects, decay and weather. Its durability makes it last a long time. Another kind of outdoor wood furniture is mahogany. It's resistant to splintering and shrinking. Mahogany is a hard- and tight-grained wood that lasts for years. Outdoor furniture made of cypress is resistant to decay, cracking and splitting, which makes it another good choice. It has a unique and nice-looking yellowish-red color. It's beautiful either natural or painted and holds paint well.







Tags: furniture made, long time, Outdoor furniture made, This type, aluminum tubing, comes many, finish that

Paint A Wrought Iron Railing

Paint a Wrought Iron Railing


Wrought iron railings are beautiful additions to any porch, stairway or yard. They speak of quality and strength and can add a sense of safety. Usually, good old iron work can be cleaned up and painted; it will last for decades, if done properly.


Instructions


1. Scrub the railing very thoroughly with a wire brush, getting into all the corners and crevises. Any loose paint or rust should be removed.


2. Wipe down the scrubbed metal with a tack cloth or a damp cloth. Try to get off any grit remaining from the scrubbing. If there is any dirt remaining, clean it well with a paint prep soap and allow it to dry.


3. Place the railing on a drop cloth and prime the railing with a good quality exterior metal primer as close to the final color as possible, either by brushing it on or by spray painting. Allow to dry according to directions.


4. Paint the iron railing with a good quality exterior metal paint, either by brushing or by spraying it on. Start at the top and work down, brushing upwards as you go. You may find that railings with intricate scrolls require spraying. Make sure to paint in all the different angled areas. Allow it to dry in a well ventilated but dust free area for at least 24 hours before installing.

Tags: either brushing, exterior metal, good quality, good quality exterior, Paint Wrought, Paint Wrought Iron

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Decorate A Feng Shui Bedroom With The Color Salmon

Decorate a feng shui bedroom in salmon.


Serenity and comfort can be experienced in a feng shui bedroom design. Decorating a feng shui bedroom with the color salmon can be a calming and relaxing way to create a warm and welcoming bedroom style. Interior decorating trends in the feng shui motif require the incorporation of Asian elements and modern decor into the bedroom design. The color salmon can be used to bring visual interest into this important room in your Asian-inspired home. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Paint the entire bedroom a soft salmon color. Since salmon is not a boisterous or dominant color, it can be used on the walls in a feng shui bedroom to create warmth in the room. For the best results, choose a shade of salmon that has a hint of rust or peach in its composition. Avoid using shades of salmon that have a noticeable pink hue. If the bedroom is small, you can paint one wall a salmon color and leave the other walls white or off-white. Select a salmon-colored wall paint that has a flat or satin paint texture; avoid high-gloss shines.


2. Select bedroom furniture that incorporates an Asian-inspired theme into the room. Choose natural brown wood tones that complement the peachy hue in salmon. Avoid furniture that has light oak, maple or pine stains that tend to wash out and decrease the visual impact of the color salmon. For a strong feng shui theme, use black furniture with Asian etchings and hardware to create comfort and harmony in the room. Select pieces of furniture that have a modern, global appeal.


3. Incorporate the natural botanical world into the room. Add a peaceful water fountain with salmon-colored stones, several colorful Asian plants with salmon-hued blooms and an assortment of bamboo artifacts into the design of the room. Feng shui has a spalike vibe that introduces the warm and seducing elements of the outdoors into the interior living space. Use bamboo, greenery and attractive flowering plants in the room design. Place these feng shui salmon-colored botanical accents on a dresser, accent table or floor area.


4. Add salmon bedding and decorative accents to the room design. Choose window treatments with wrought iron or bamboo curtain rods and salmon-colored silky fabrics. The luxury of the feng shui design blends traditional Asia style with modern romanticism. The color salmon can be incorporated into the comforter and bedding, throw pillows, throw rugs, wall art, table decorations, lamps and decorative candles. These Asian-inspired decorative accents will bring the warmth of salmon into the overall room design.







Tags: color salmon, feng shui, shui bedroom, feng shui, furniture that

What Is The Composition Of Wrought Iron

Wrought iron can be shiny black, brown or painted.


Wrought means "worked" in medieval English, a time when blacksmiths worked iron rods into intricate curving designs for fences, furniture, gates and window boxes. Two kinds of wrought iron are used. Charcoal iron was first forged in a charcoal fire in the Iron Age and beaten into shape by hand. It was replaced in the 18th century by smooth rolled bars and named "puddle iron" during the Industrial Revolution, which created coal furnaces. Does this Spark an idea?


Properties


Wrought iron is made of iron with less than 1 percent carbon and a glass-like slag. It is the only ferrous metal that contains siliceous slag. Wrought iron does not become molten in the manufacturing process, so carbides and silicates are changed into glass and remain in the matrix. These give wrought iron its fibrous structure and anti-corrosive properties. While forged wrought iron and mild steel, which replaced it in the 1800s, appear identical, their working properties and resistance to corrosion are very different. Wrought iron is softer and workable at a higher heat than mild steel, which makes it more mallable when beaten by a hammer. Before the 18th century, wrought iron was forged into billets by water power or hand. The surface of the bars was uneven and corners very sharp. Beginning in the 19th century, cast iron was purified in a refinery and renamed puddle iron, a form of wrought iron. The bars were rolled smooth, which rounded the corners.


Uses


When wrought iron is heated, the slag melts and coats the surface. This glassy layer gives it a shiny luster and retards oxidation. Wrought iron can be heated to a higher temperature than other metals, which makes it more malleable and easy to form into elaborate designs. Wrought iron is durable; it has been used in three 100-year-old ship beams and cramps on 500-year-old Tudor bridges still in excellent condition. Wrought iron railings in England's Westminster Abbey are from the 13th century.


Benefits


Wrought iron is not brittle and will bend, not break, allowing delicate design work. Decorative wrought iron is full of intricate forms and water traps that are notorious areas for corrosion with other metals not protected by slag. Because of its coating of glass slag, wrought iron is virtually maintenance free and its low carbon content makes it relatively easy to weld.


Modern Uses


Sharp points make ornamental wrought iron fences protective.


Iron and steel don't contain wrought iron's glass slag, so they corrode rapidly. Although hand-made wrought iron is more expensive to make, it lasts longer and requires less maintenance than mild steel or cast iron. It is a good choice for an outside decorative feature, like a gateway or door frame, and is a favorite material for window boxes or balcony railings. Wrought iron is preferable to modern metals to restore historic sections of wrought iron work.







Tags: wrought iron, Wrought iron, wrought iron, mild steel, 18th century

Differences Between Steel Pipe & Black Iron Pipe

The average homeowner is unaware of how much piping leads into and out of their home. There are the ever-present pipes underneath the sink or ones leading to the hot water heater. However, an in-depth look behind the walls and underneath the ground reveals that there are enough pipes to wrap around the house several times. There are HPVC, PVC, black iron and steel pipes leading everywhere. Does this Spark an idea?

Steel Pipe


A steel pipe is made from steel and is used in things such as fences, oil lines, water treatment facilities and bridges. It is very durable and long lasting. Inside the home, it is usually the pipe system that connects the lines from the local water supply or septic tank to the house. Houses near bodies of water will use steel because it corrodes less easily.


Black Iron Pipe


Most homes built before the 1960s have black iron pipe for things such as water and gas lines. It is a form of steel pipe, but made from more malleable products. Most modern homes use PVC pipe, which is cheaper and easier to work with. However, some re-modelers are going back to to black iron pipes because it is very durable for gas. It is rarely, if ever, used anymore to transport water into a home because it corrodes easily.


Working Differences


Construction is the main difference between the two products. Black iron pipes will have seams that allow the user to connect them easily to other pieces of pipe using connector valves. Steel pipe is more often used in industrial applications and it needs to be welded. Even experienced craftsmen have trouble working with both kinds of metal, so do-it-yourselfers shouldn't get discouraged if they make some early mistakes.


Texture


Steel pipe will have a very fine feel to it and almost be cool to the touch. It won't scratch as easily as black iron pipe, but that doesn't meant it can't be damaged by a wrench or hammer while working around it. Black iron pipe is course and grainy and will feel the same at room temperature. Black iron pipe will also flake if it is handled a lot. However, both can be heated very easily and will burn the user's hand.


Repairing


The main problem with black iron pipe--especially in the home--is leakage at connector spots. It requires a lot of work to fix these leaks, which is why many people no longer use black iron pipes. Steel pipes do not have that problem because it is most often welded. However, it is more expensive than black iron pipes or PVC.


Expenses


Steel pipe will usually cost about 20 percent more than black iron pipe, but it does a better job of saving resources in the long run by being more energy efficient. Its durability and cost are part of the reasons that use of steel pipes for large industrial jobs has grown in the United States. However, black iron pipe is more widely available than steel, which also makes it more convenient.

Tags: black iron, iron pipe, iron pipes, Black iron, black iron

Choose Best Brick Fence Designs

Choose a color of brick that complements your home.


Homeowners build fences for protection, privacy and aesthetic reasons. A brick fence can provide all of this, but choose a design carefully because they are costly to build. Take a good look at your house -- and your budget -- before you decide what kind of fence to build. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Determine your reasons for a fence. If privacy is your main concern, choose a a tall, solid brick design. Pet owners who want to corral a small dog may build a shorter, solid wall.


2. Match the brick fence design with the look of your house. Choose fence posts, arches, colors and accents that mimic or complement your house style.


Fences and walls made of stone, brick and stucco enhance English Tudor and Craftsman houses.


3. Allow your front lawn and house design to show through. Choose a brick fence with empty spaces that frames the beauty within instead of covering it up.


4. Combine other materials with the brick for aesthetic appeal. Construct brick posts with steel, aluminum or wrought iron fencing between the posts. This design that allows you to see into your property, while providing security.


5. Choose a color that complements your home. Bricks come in shades of red, white, gray, brown and orange. Select grainier bricks that have multiple colors within or bricks that have a smoother look. Use a combination of colors for a customized design.







Tags: brick fence, your house, bricks that, bricks that have, Choose color

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Romantic Cheap Bedroom Ideas

Adding a chandelier makes any bedroom feel more romantic.


Turn your bedroom into a romantic retreat no matter how small your budget. Creating a romantic bedroom doesn't have to cost thousands. You may need to add a few inexpensive items, but the most romantic bedroom decorating ideas focus on atmosphere, not acquisition.


Make a Headboard


The bed is the natural focal point of any bedroom, and a plain mattress pushed against the wall rarely looks romantic. There's no need to head to a furniture store. Do-it-yourself headboards are simple and inexpensive. Make your own upholstered headboard, or shop flea markets and antique malls for something to mount behind the bed. Old iron fencing, carved or paneled doors, shutters and screens are all good options.


Install Bed Hangings


Bed hangings are natural choices for romantic bedrooms. They add drama to your room and make your bed feel more intimate. If your headboard is plainer than you'd like, bed hangings redirect your eye. For an inexpensive version, hang a couple of king-size sheets or inexpensive drapery panels from a curtain rod mounted behind the bed.


Hang a Chandelier


A chandelier is a must for romantic bedroom decorating. If you can't wire a chandelier into your ceiling, convert it for plug use and hang it directly over your bed like a swag lamp. Shop home-improvement stores for modest prices on new chandeliers, or hunt for an old one at flea markets and thrift stores. Add your own baubles and crystals to a plain one if necessary.


Install Dimmers


Whether or not you hang a chandelier, add dimmer switches to all your bedroom lighting. Buy them at any hardware store. They're cheap and easy to install. Nothing says romance like soft lighting.


Light Candles


Set the mood in your romantic bedroom by lighting candles. Candlelight might be a romantic cliche, but that's because it works. Everything looks better by the light of the flickering, mesmerizing flames. Hunt for vintage candelabra and wall sconces at antique malls, thrift stores and flea markets and use them with tall tapered candles.


Arrange Fresh Flowers


Perfume your romantic bedroom with the delicate scent of fresh flowers. For less than the cost of a fast-food lunch, you can buy fresh flowers at the grocery store. Buy a bundle every week and arrange them in a favorite vase on your bedside table.


Upgrade Bed Linens


Romantic bedrooms have comfortable beds with attractive bed linens. There's nothing like sliding between cool, crisp sheets. Make sure yours are clean and ironed. Buy new ones if necessary, and buy the highest thread count you can afford. It's better to have one good set than three cheap ones.


Replace squashed, musty-smelling pillows, and toss that ugly bedspread in favor of an inexpensive cotton coverlet. You can buy that pricey comforter set of your dreams later, but don't live with something unappealing until then.







Tags: romantic bedroom, flea markets, antique malls, bedroom decorating, bedroom lighting, feel more

Install An Outdoor Stair Railing

Railings are essential to protect anyone who uses your home's exterior stairs from nasty tumbles, slips and falls that can result in serious injury. That's why the International Residential Code specifies that railings be included on any outside stairs with more than three steps or that rise more than 30 inches above the ground. A railing is also an important aesthetic feature that gives outdoor stairs a polished and finished look. For either purpose the railing must be properly secured, because a wobbly, unstable railing is not only unattractive, it can be even more dangerous than no railing at all. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions


Install the Posts


1. Measure and cut top and bottom posts for the stairs. The top of each post should be 36 inches above the top of the stair tread it will be placed next to when the post is attached to the stringer. Total length of the posts should be 36 inches, plus the height of the stringer.


2. Mark two holes along the bottom of each post, centered side-to-side on the post face, 2 and 4 inches up from the bottom edge.


3. Drill 5/16-inch pilot holes all the way through the posts at the marks, and countersink each hole 1/2 inch deep with a 1-inch spade bit.


4. Position each post against the stringer and check for plumb using a torpedo level. Mark the post's position on the stringer with a pencil, and poke the pencil through the pilot holes to mark the stringer.


5. Drill 5/16-inch pilot holes at the marks on the stringers.


6. Screw the posts in place using 1/2-inch by 5-inch lag screws and washers, tightened with a socket wrench fitted with a 3/4-inch socket.


Install the Rails


7. Mark a vertical line on the inside face of each post, 2 inches up from the surface of the stair tread. Use an angle square as a straightedge.


8. Hold a 2-by-4 against the outside of the posts, so that the bottom edge is aligned with the marks. Use the inside edges of the posts as guides to draw cut lines on the face of the 2-by-4.


9. Hold a 2-by-4 with its top edge aligned with the back corners of the top and bottom posts. Mark the inside face of the 2-by-4 as before, and draw diagonal cut lines on the posts following the top edge of the 2-by-4.


10. Cut the tops of the posts along the diagonal lines. Cut the 2-by-4 rails along the marked lines, using a circular saw.


11. Position the rails between the posts, centered on each post's width. Screw the rails to the posts by driving 2-1/2-inch deck screws at an angle, through the sides of the rails and into the posts.


12. Position each 2-by-2 baluster along the rails, check for level and mark cut lines along the tops following the top edge of the rail. Use a short length of 2-by-4 scrap as a spacer between the balusters.


13. Cut the balusters to length and miter the bottom ends 45 degrees. Hold the balusters in place and drill 1/8-inch pilot holes 1 inch in from each end. Screw the balusters to the rails with 2-1/2-inch deck screws.


14. Measure and cut a 2-by-4 for the top cap. The cap should run from the back of the top post to 1 inch beyond the front edge of the bottom post. Cut a curve in the front end of the cap using a jigsaw.


15. Apply a bead of construction adhesive along the underside of the cap, along where it will sit on the top rail and posts. Screw the cap to the top rail and posts with 2-1/2 inch deck screws.







Tags: each post, pilot holes, deck screws, 16-inch pilot, 16-inch pilot holes, 2-inch deck

Monday, April 25, 2011

Install An Aluminum Fence Post

Aluminum fences often look like wood or wrought iron.


Aluminum fences have the traditional look of wrought-iron fences, but do not require the same level of maintenance. These fences come in a number of styles and colors. Aluminum fences are perfect for decoration or utility, depending on the fence style. They come pre-manufactured, so the posts must be a specific distance apart. Unlike many other fences, the posts and the rails must be installed at the same time, since the rails fit inside the posts. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Dig the holes for the end posts, using the post hole digger. The holes should have a diameter equal to three times the width of the post and be at least 30 inches deep. If the fence will be higher than 6 feet, dig down more. Try to keep about 1/3 of the entire post length below the ground.


2. Remove dirt from the sides of the bottom of the hole, using the spade. The goal is to get the bottom of the hole wider than the top so that when the ground freezes, it does not push the concrete foot out of the ground.


3. Place 6 inches of gravel into the bottom of the hole and place the aluminum post into the hole. Have a helper hold the post upright.


4. Alternate pouring water and quick-setting concrete into the hole according to the instructions on the bag of concrete. If the concrete is not pre-mixed, mix it first with mason's sand before adding water. Fill the hole with concrete up to 4 inches below the top of the hole.


5. Stand the post upright and make sure it is level. Backfill the rest of the hole with dirt and tamp it down.


6. Dig up to eight more holes for line posts in this stretch of fence. If you reach the place for another end or corner post, dig the hole and stop there. The distance between the holes is determined by the size of the aluminum fence and provided by the fence manufacturer. Make sure that the holes are in a completely straight line from the side of the first post. If necessary, tie a piece of string to the first post and run it directly over all of the holes. Place a few inches of gravel into the bottom of the holes.


7. Slide the aluminum fence rails into the punched holes on the post that you already set up. Place a line post into the next hole and slide the rails into the post.


8. Pour concrete into the line post hole up to 4 inches below the top. Adjust the line post so that it is straight up and backfill the top 4 inches of the hole with dirt. Tamp the dirt down to keep the post in place. Repeat the process for each line post in this section of fence.


9. Align the aluminum fence with a level, and look at the fence from different angles. The horizontal rails should look like one continuous rail and the posts should all line up when looking at the fence from the side. Make any necessary adjustments before the concrete becomes too tough to work with. Wait 24 hours for the concrete to set.







Tags: line post, aluminum fence, Aluminum fences, bottom hole, hole with, post hole

The History Of The Cast Iron Lawn Jockey

Historians search for a link between George Washington and the first lawn jockey statues.


Often viewed as a symbol of racism, the cast iron lawn jockey nevertheless occupies a fascinating place in history. "The faithful groomsman" has stood guard before homes, plantations, businesses and storefronts for more than 150 years. Does this Spark an idea?


"Jocko" and George Washington


The legend of George Washington and his faithful servant, Jocko Graves, first circulated in 1963 when journalist Earl Kroger, Jr. wrote a pamphlet outlining their story. According to the Antique Trader website, Kroger maintained that Jocko, a boy of 12, died of exposure while caring for the horses of Washington's troops while Washington crossed the Delaware in 1776. Washington supposedly later erected a small statue at Mount Vernon in honor of the young groomsman. Historians and scholars, however, have found no factual evidence to prove the legend.


Underground Railroad Connection


The Loudon County, Virginia History website explains that the cast iron jockey stood as a silent indicator of safe houses along the Underground Railroad's route to freedom, with or without the knowledge of the home or plantation owner.


Statue Evolution


The first statues appear to have been cast no earlier than the 1850s. Sculptor Franklin Porteus Holcomb created the statue's first prototype in 1855, says the Antique Trader website. The first cast iron statue portrayed a young African-American wearing overalls, with his right hand extended to serve as a hitching post or lantern-holder. Over the years, the groomsman's features became more caricature-like and offensive to African-Americans and others who saw the statue as a painful reminder of slavery in the United States.







Tags: George Washington, Antique Trader, Antique Trader website, cast iron, lawn jockey, Trader website

Friday, April 22, 2011

Paint An Aluminum Mailbox

Do not use bonding primer to coat an aluminum mailbox.


If you have driven down most any neighborhood street, you've likely noticed paint chipping away from more than one aluminum mailbox. The culprit in this sort of wearing is virtually always poor surface preparation. Because metallic surfaces are slick and nonporous, they must be conditioned before paint will adhere to them. Unfortunately, aluminum's durability makes friction-based abrasion techniques useless. You will need to apply a special type of primer that will abrade the surface of the mailbox, or you will eventually end up with chipping and flaking. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Remove the address numbers from the mailbox. Use a screwdriver if they are screwed on. Use a plastic putty knife to scrape them away if they are stickers.


2. Scrub the aluminum mailbox clean using a water-based degreaser. Rinse the mailbox using a water hose.


3. Allow the surface to dry completely, and then scrape away any loose or peeling paint from the mailbox using a plastic putty knife.


4. Apply painter's tape to the mailbox flag and any other areas of the mailbox you want left unpainted.


5. Apply a spray rust sealer to any rusted areas of the aluminum mailbox.


6. Allow the sealer to dry for two hours, and then apply a coat of etching primer to the entire mailbox.


7. Allow the etching primer to cure for four hours, and then apply two coats of acrylic spray paint to the mailbox. Allow two hours of dry time between coats.







Tags: aluminum mailbox, mailbox Allow, etching primer, from mailbox, hours then, hours then apply, mailbox using

Fencing & Hedges For Privacy

While city life offers convenient access to restaurants, groceries, entertainment facilities and educational institutions, city dwellers often suffer from a lack of personal privacy. Fortunately, you can create a private sanctuary in your personal space with fences and shrubs. You can establish visual boundaries while adding aesthetic appeal to your home's outdoor space. Does this Spark an idea?

Fencing


Permanent fences create hard edges around your property, which can provide privacy from neighbors and passers-by. They also provide security against unwelcome visitors. Permanent privacy fences are excellent for families with small children or animals, because they provide a safe, secure environment.


Permanent fences can be constructed from a variety of materials. Wood is the most economical option, but it requires yearly maintenance. It also has a shorter lifespan than other types of fencing materials. Vinyl is a more expensive option, but it can provide years of maintenance-free privacy and security. Cast iron and wrought iron fences provide the greatest level of security and add a sophisticated element to your outdoor space. This type of fencing is substantially more expensive than wood or vinyl.


When choosing a permanent fence, check with your local building office or homeowners' association to determine maximum height and easement requirements.


Bamboo Fencing


Bamboo is a viable alternative to permanent fencing. Once planted along the perimeter of your property, bamboo can grow to heights of 7 to 10 feet. It adds a sense of serenity to your outdoor space, turning your yard into a personal sanctuary. Bamboo propagates quickly, though, so substantial maintenance is needed to keep it from taking over your yard or encroaching on neighbors' properties. You must also take care to keep bamboo trimmed away from utility lines.


As with permanent fencing, check local regulations for restrictions and requirements before planting bamboo as a privacy fence.


Hedges


If you want a living fence, but don't want the maintenance that comes with bamboo, you can choose from a variety of hedges and evergreens to create a sense of privacy. For privacy throughout the year, choose evergreen shrubs such as arborvitae. These plants grow as high as 8 feet tall, but they do require frequent maintenance. Boxwoods, on the other hand, grow slowly, so they require less frequent trimming and shaping.







Tags: outdoor space, from variety, more expensive, Permanent fences, permanent fencing, they require, your outdoor

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Convert Pipe Size To Gpm

Pipe sizing is measured by the internal diameter of the pipe, not the overall outside diameter. Once determined, the overall volume can be calculated. Pipe flow is described in gallons per minute (GPM). Shorter lengths of pipe will have a greater flow than a longer length of the same diameter. This is caused by internal resistance of the pipe itself. By the same reasoning a larger diameter pipe will have a greater flow or GPM than a smaller pipe at the same pressure or flow rate. Pressure is described as pounds per square inch (PSI). The square-inch measurement is determined by the area of the pipe. The pounds are the amount of force that is placed on the liquid to "push" it through the enclosed space.


Instructions


1. Find the cross-section area of the pipe. Area is equal to pi times the radius squared or (a = 3.14 * r^2). A two-inch diameter pipe would have a cross-section area of 3.14 times 1^2 or 3.14 square inches.


2. Understand that water will have a certain pressure associated with the height of that water. One pound of water pressure, or 1 PSI, is equal to 2.31 feet of elevation in height. In other words, a one-inch column or pipe of water that is 2.31 feet high will have a pressure of 1 PSI. The overall height---not volume---of the pipe corresponds to the pressure. A six-inch diameter pipe that is 2.31 feet high will only have 1 PSI.


3. Find the volume of the two-inch diameter pipe in Step 1 that has a length of 10 feet. Ten feet is equal to 120 inches. Multiply 3.14 square inches, the cross sectional area, times the length. The volume of the pipe is equal to 376.8 cubic inches of volume.


4. Convert cubic inches into cubic feet. One cubic foot equals 1,728 cubic inches. Divide 376.8 cubic inches by 1,728 cubic inches per cubic foot and the answer is .218 cubic feet. This means that the two-inch diameter pipe that is 10 feet long has an internal volume of .218 cubic feet.


5. Calculate the amount of water that can be contained in the section of pipe at any given time. One cubic foot of water is equal to 7.48 gallons. Multiply 7.48 gallons by .218 cubic feet and the amount of water in the pipe is equal to 1.63 gallons.


6. Find the GPM if the flow of water is one foot per second. Multiply the one-foot per second flow by 60 seconds per minute and the flow is now 60 feet per minute. In other words the water will flow through the 10-foot pipe six full volumes for every minute. Since the piping contains 1.63 gallons per 10 feet of pipe, multiply 1.63 by six and the final GPM is equal to 9.78 GPM of water flow from the two-inch diameter pipe.







Tags: diameter pipe, cubic inches, cubic feet, two-inch diameter, two-inch diameter pipe

Repair Rusted Patio Furniture

Rust affects any metal surface exposed to moisture.


Patio furniture is exposed to outdoor conditions on a daily basis. Exposed to too much moisture, the reddish-brown corrosion called rust develops on the furniture. Left unabated, the rust will continue to eat at the furniture, sometimes causing holes in the metal. Repair rusted patio furniture yearly or when you notice it to prevent further corrosion. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Scour rusted areas with a wire brush. Continue scrubbing the areas until all rust and loose paint chips away.


2. Sand the patio furniture with coarse-grit sandpaper, and then sand the furniture with a fine 120- to 180-grit sandpaper. Sand all matching furniture pieces if the item is part of a set.


3. Wipe the sand and paint residue off the furniture using a clean cloth soaked in warm water. Repeat if necessary. Dry the furniture completely.


4. Apply an oil-based rust-inhibiting primer to the patio furniture. Use a brush-on primer to ensure complete coverage. Allow to dry completely.


5. Paint the furniture. Check the paint's labeling to ensure that it is approved for outdoor use and compatible with the oil-based primer. Apply more coats as necessary, allowing each to dry completely before applying another.







Tags: furniture with

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Gifts For A Sixth Anniversary

Take your sweetheart to a candy factory for a fun tour and to shop for candies.


The traditional gifts for a sixth wedding anniversary are candy and iron. There are a lot of options within these two traditional gift categories that both men and women like. While iron sounds like an odd gift to give, many furniture pieces, appliances and various house wares contain the material. Couples can also choose to give items made out of wood, the modern gift for a sixth anniversary, or create a keepsake that documents the first six years of married life.


Candy


There is a wide variety of candy available for people with different tastes. The word "candy" is derived from the Arabic word "qandi," which means food made from sugar. Candy options include chocolates, jelly beans, salty licorice, sugared fruit, peanut brittle and caramels. Gift sets containing several types of candy are good for those who are unsure of the recipient's preferences. For something more active, go on a trip to a candy factory that provides tours and samples.


Iron


Iron is an abundant metal that is flexible yet strong. Cast iron forms when iron mixes with other elements such as carbon, nickel and chromium. For someone who loves to cook, cast iron pots, pans and skillets are durable, distribute heat well and are affordable. Griddles and teapots are also made out of cast iron. Besides cookware, decorative household items such as candle holders, statutes and wine racks can be made from iron. Wrought iron, formed when iron is melted with a smaller percentage of carbon than is used to form cast iron, is a popular accent for patio furniture.


Wood


Wood is the modern gift for a sixth anniversary. Wood items are so prevalent that you can easily purchase a wooden item that fits with your partner's hobbies and interests. If your partner likes to cook and entertain, there are wooden salad bowls, serving utensils and cheese boards. For fashionistas of both genders, there are shoes, jewelry and accessories made with wood. Consider sports equipment, such as golf sets, baseball bats and fishing rods, made out of wood. There is also the option of giving a pretty plant or planting a tree together.


Memories Keepsake


Another option is to create something that documents the first six years of your life together. It can be a scrapbook or photo album filled with photos and mementos, with pages dedicated to each year. Make a slideshow with photos over the six years and set it to some of your favorite songs. Add to the romance by playing it over a homemade dinner. If you have documented important events and vacations on video over the years, create a movie summarizing the six years and end it by saying how you are looking forward to more years together.







Tags: cast iron, candy factory, documents first, documents first years, first years, gift sixth, gift sixth anniversary

About Decorative Curtain Accessories

A tassel is one type of decorative curtain accessory.


You’ll find an endless variety of types when choosing decorative curtain accessories. Select something that matches the decor of your room. A gilded gold or wooden accessory goes well with traditional decor. For a contemporary look, consider a nickel finish with a streamlined design. For a classic look, wrought iron in black or dark bronze may fit the bill. Decorative curtain accessories add personality to a room. Does this Spark an idea?


Curtain Rods


Set up for curtains combines the use of functional items with the decorative. The most basic item, a curtain rod, holds the curtain to the window. Designers make curtain rods with many decorative features such as fluting or a twisted design. They also come in many different materials and finishes. Decorative curtain rods are made from wood, pewter, wrought iron, brass and more. Allow the rod to show through by using curtains that don't completely cover the rod.


Finials and End Caps


Finials and end caps attach to the ends of the curtain rod and further customize the window treatment. Designers offer choices to fit your personal taste. You may find finials and end caps made in the same finish as your curtain rod, or you can choose complementary materials. End caps feature an understated, subtle design, while finials may includes shapes such as leaves, stars or flowers. For an eclectic look you can choose finials made from colorful hand-blown glass. To add a touch of sparkle, consider a finial encrusted with crystals.


Brackets and Sconces


Brackets support the rod on the wall. Though they may be designed to be inconspicuous, you may select a highly decorative design that accents the rod and contributes to the overall appeal of the window treatment. Sconces, another type of bracket, allow you thread to a curtain scarf directly through the sconce without the use of a rod. You then drape the fabric to create a valance. You can purchase sconces carved out of wood or cast in resin or metal.


Curtain Rings


When placing a curtain on a decorative rod, you should hang the curtains from them in a way to keep from covering the rod. You can use rings for this purpose. Rings may be metal or wood and be sewn onto the curtain, or clip on for a casual look. Rods come in a variety of diameters and lengths, so choose the size that will fit your window and the rod pocket of your curtain


Valances and Cornice Boards


If you are not interested in using a decorative curtain rod, you may decide to use a valance or a cornice. A valance is a long piece of fabric that starts above the curtain rod and covers it. You may select a valance decorated with fringes, or cut in a style similar to the curtain.


A cornice is a traditional living room piece. This wooden piece covers and runs the length of the curtain rod, and is generally polished or covered in a fabric that matches or complements the curtains.


Tie Backs


Tie backs allow you to fix window treatments in an open position. You can purchase metal tie backs in the same color of your rod. They screw into the window frames and allow you to drape the fabric back. A classic choice is a simple cotton or polyester rope holding curtains off to the side of the window. To match the design of the window treatments, use a neatly hemmed strip of fabric to hold the curtains back. More decorative tiebacks include beaded strings, elaborate bows or tassels.







Tags: decorative curtain, curtain accessories, curtain rods, Decorative curtain, drape fabric

Paint Castaluminum Wheels Black

Painting aluminum wheels black changes the look of your vehicle.


Painting cast-aluminum wheels results in a new looking wheel without the expense of powder coating or anodizing. Brake dust, dirt or debris left on the wheel will interfere with the way the paint adheres to the aluminum wheel. Taking the time to clean and prepare the wheel will ensure that the paint does not peel.


Instructions


1. Apply aluminum cleaner to the surface of the wheel with a dry rag. Allow the cleaner to remain on the wheel for 15 to 20 minutes. Dip a stiff bristled brush in clean water. Scrub the wheel with the wet brush. Rinse the wheel with clean water. Allow the wheel to completely dry.


2. Sand the wheel with 200-grit sandpaper. Wipe the sanded wheel with a dry rag.


3. Apply masking tape to all areas of the wheel that will not receive black paint. If there is a tire attached to the wheel, cover it with masking tape.


4. Shake the sandable primer. Hold the tip of the can 6 inches from the surface of the wheel. Spray an even coat of primer to the surface of the wheel. Allow the primer to dry.


5. Sand the can of primer with 200-grit sandpaper. Clean the sanding dust from the wheel with a dry rag.


6. Shake the can of black spray paint. Hold the tip of the can 8 to 12 inches from the surface of the wheel. Coat the wheel with black spray paint. Allow the paint to dry for 45 to 60 minutes. Apply additional coats of paint until you have the desired black finish.







Tags: wheel with, surface wheel, 200-grit sandpaper, black spray, black spray paint

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Identify Cast Iron Chairs

A few easy tests identify cast-iron chairs.


The popularity of cast-iron furniture reached its height in the 19th century. According to "Collectors Weekly," the mid-1850s saw manufacturers producing a diverse range of cast-iron products for the household. The most popular items were chairs and benches because of their use as memorial pieces in cemeteries. Many replicas of cast-iron chairs exist that use different materials, such as aluminum, but a few simple tests can identify cast iron and rule out a fake.


Instructions


1. Cast iron is heavier than most metals.


Pick up the chair and evaluate its weight. Cast iron is extremely heavy and difficult to move easily, whereas a replica will be lighter. If it doesn't feel heavy, it is unlikely to be cast iron.


2. The magnet test will help identify cast iron.


Apply the magnet to each chair segment in turn. The iron will attract the magnet strongly and will rule out an aluminum replica. Test each leg separately in case of any replacements and then move on to the chair base and back rest.


3. A grainy surface may identify cast iron.


Run your hand over the chair surface. Cast-iron chairs commonly use sand molds in construction, so the surface should feel grainy. Check all surfaces carefully, especially those not normally seen, such as the underside of the chair base, in case the chair has only a cast-iron paint effect.


4. Look for small signs of rust.


Look for visible signs of rust. Cast-iron chairs are prone to rust due to moisture interacting with the iron and oxidizing. Check underneath the feet of the legs, as this area is likely to receive the most exposure to dampness. If the chair is excessively rusty, be wary, as this may indicate that the chair is made of steel or wrought iron, both of which are less resistant to rust than cast iron.


5. Surface defects are visible in cast iron.


Look for air bubbles in the cast iron. Scan the surface of the chair slowly in each section, looking for defects in the metal; use a magnifying glass if necessary. Cast iron tends to have manufacturing faults, such as air bubbles, due to the nature of the casting process itself.


6. Cast iron will break rather than bending or denting.


Look for damage and check for the effects of brittle metal. Cast iron is more likely to break than bend when hit directly because of its carbon content, so it is strong but brittle. If you see a chair with dents in the metal, it is probably a replica and not cast iron. Any metal damage that looks like it is broken clean through is an identifiable sign that the chair is probably made of cast iron.







Tags: cast iron, identify cast iron, Cast iron, Cast-iron chairs, cast-iron chairs, chair base

Identify Brass Antique Markings

Brass antique markings can help you determine the age of your item.


For centuries artisans have been placing their marks on the works they have created, whether in porcelain, glass, silver, gold, stoneware or brass. A maker's mark is like the artist's signature on a painting. It is a way to identify the creator's work and reputation while conveying a certain standard of quality. Maker's marks were often stamped or carved into each piece. The most sought-after brass antiques are candlesticks and andirons (metal support for fireplace logs) from the 18th and 19th centuries. If you wish to determine the age and maker of your antique piece, it will be helpful to know identify brass antique markings.


Instructions


1. Determine if your piece is actually brass and not copper. Both brass and copper will acquire a greenish-blue patina with age and oxidation, which can make proper identification of an antique piece difficult. Generally the most effective way to distinguish brass from copper is by color: copper typically exhibits the color of a new penny--kind of an orange, almost reddish color. Brass has much more yellow to its shade, more like gold.


2. Maker's marks were stamped or carved into a piece to prevent forgery.


Examine your brass antique item to locate the maker's mark. If the creator marked the finished piece, most likely it will be stamped or etched into the metal somewhere. Often times the maker's mark will be on the base of the piece, inside a lid or on the back of a handle.


3. Take a picture or make a sketch of the maker's mark. For items like andirons, this will be useful if you need to consult with local antique dealers for help identifying the creator of your piece. Having a photo or drawing will be much easier than hauling around a heavy brass item.


4. Search through print and online resources of maker's marks. The local library or Robert E. Eliason's Early American Brass Makers may be valuable resources, especially if any history is known about your brass antique. The website Antique-Marks.com has a very comprehensive antique marks glossary which can help narrow down the maker of a piece. Marks4Silver.com offers an online library of over 12,000 confirmed makers' marks on silver, jewelry and metalware, including brass artifacts.


5. Extend your research to local antique shops and dealers, or visit an antiques show. Knowledgeable antiques dealers are often willing to offer an abundance of free information. They may also be able to direct you to other valuable resources that can help you identify brass antique markings.







Tags: maker mark, antique markings, brass antique, antique piece, brass antique markings, brass copper

Monday, April 18, 2011

Estimate Cost Of Building A Pergola

A pergola is a structure that is used to define outdoor space. It doesn't provide shelter from the sun or rain, but it looks nice when installed on your back patio or deck. Pergolas are relatively easy to build and don't require many materials. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Draw a rough sketch of what you want your pergola to look like. Locate a space in your yard or on your deck for the pergola and measure the area. Pergolas usually have a post in each corner to hold up the structure, but you can get creative if you want to. You'll use this sketch including the dimensions as the focus of your calculations.


2. Consider the material the pergola will sit on. If you're going to install it on concrete or an existing wood deck, you'll need to install metal brackets into the concrete or wood to set the posts in. If you want to put the posts into the earth, you'll need a post-hole digger or an auger, and you'll have to fill the holes with concrete to secure the posts.


3. Check with your local home improvement store to price your materials. You'll need four 4-by-4 inch posts (or however many posts you have decided upon), 2-by-6s for your "roof" and support beams, a saw to cut your wood, nails and a hammer, and assorted screws and a power screw driver. The number of 2-by-6s all depends on how large your pergola will be; you'll want to space the beams anywhere from 12 to 20 inches apart.


4. Figure out if you want to add any finishing touches to the pergola, like accent pieces made from wrought iron or tile or post caps to the top of the posts. Decide if you want to stain or seal the wood. You can leave it bare if it's pressure treated, or you can apply a colored stain or a clear sealant to it.


5. Add up the costs of all your materials, plus any labor if you want your friends to help you. This is your total estimate.







Tags: pergola will, want your, your materials, your pergola

Make A Headboard Out Of Barnboard

Red Barnboard


Repurpose old barnboards into a custom headboard for your bedroom with a few simple steps. Barnboards are available online and at local architectural salvage yards. You can create any type of design that suits your room's décor. These step by step instructions are for making a simple headboard spanning the width of your bed. The boards are joined together, yet separated, by decorative wrought iron brackets. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Saturate the barnboards with the non-toxic borate insect treatment and wrap them completely with tarps or heavy plastic. Let the boards sit for three days, then remove the plastic wrap and saturate them again with the borate spray. Wrap the boards securely back in the tarp and leave them alone for 12 to 14 days. This method of extermination will force the borate insect treatment into the wood, eliminating any insects that may be munching beneath the surface of the old wood. Applying the borate onto the board surface only will not affect the insects living inside.


2. Cut the barnboards to fit the desired length of your headboard. A typical headboard may extend two inches on either side of the mattress. You could also extend the boards long enough to encompass side tables if you'd like to create a larger focal point for your room.


3. Lay the boards face down. Attach one of the wrought iron brackets to the backside of the board on the top, six inches from the side edge. Attach another bracket six inches from the opposite edge of the same board. Center a third bracket between the first two brackets. The decorative brackets will join the boards together, leaving an open space that is equal to the length of the brackets. The wall behind your headboard will be visible between the boards. Make sure that each of the brackets is placed evenly along the backside of the barnboard. Repeat this process on a separate board.


4. Lay another barnboard beside one of the bracketed boards so that the ends are even and flush. Attach the two boards together where the wrought iron brackets meet the wood. Make sure that the space between the two boards is equal. Repeat this process with the other bracketed board and a separate barnboard. You now have two sets of two barnboards joined together by decorative wrought iron brackets.


5. Attach the two sets of boards together with the remaining two wrought iron brackets. Place one bracket in each center space created by the three brackets. For example, your headboard may measure 58 inches for a full size mattress with two extra inches on either side. You have decorative brackets placed six inches from each end and one in the center, or 23 inches from each end bracket. Place the last two wrought iron brackets 11-½ inches from each end bracket.


6. Attach decorative wrought iron wall hanging brackets to the studs in the wall above your bed and hang your headboard.







Tags: wrought iron, iron brackets, wrought iron brackets, inches from, your headboard, boards together, decorative wrought

Friday, April 15, 2011

Metal Furniture Paint Techniques

Begin with a cleaned, sanded and primed metal surface before adding a paint technique to metal furniture. Spraying painting works better than brushing when painting metal furniture. Always use spray paint primer made for metal surfaces; most spray paint manufacturers will have one. These primers allow metal to be painted with a regular spray paint. Seal metal surfaces and finishes with a non-yellowing polyurethane sealer. Does this Spark an idea?

Crackle Finish


Crackle mediums can be used on wrought iron furniture. Crackle finishes work well with additional decorative techniques like tole (folk art painting). Sand and prime (using a spray primer) the metal furniture, allowing the primer to dry fully. Add several coats of a base color using a spray paint. Any base color will work, but lighter colors tend to create more contrast, especially if adding decorative painting over the crackle finish. Choose a crackle medium that lists wrought iron as a workable surface, and follow the manufacturer's directions. Do not move the medium around after it has been applied. Doing so will ruin the chemical reaction that needs to occur. Add decorative painting after the crackle finish has dried.


Gilded Finish


Gilding on metal furniture can add a touch of elegance and a hint of wealth. This furniture painting technique works especially well on a relief or a carved surface. Clean the surface with a damp cloth, removing dirt and debris. Sand, prime and give the item several coats of a solid base color. Allow the furniture to dry, and apply an acrylic or latex metallic craft paint (much less expensive than gold or silver leaf) using a small, pointed brush. Drag the paint-loaded brush (Drag it lightly across a piece of scrap paper first to smooth out the paint, twirling the brush as it is dragged.) through the crevices and flourishes of the metalwork. Decide where the gilding will go before adding the metal paint. Photograph the freshly painted piece, and scan the photo into the computer as a bitmap. (Bitmaps allow the picture to be enlarged or reduced without degrading the image.) Enlarge the item, and make a copy. Draw directly onto the copy with a colored pencil or metallic pen to determine how the final piece should look.


Aged Finish


This technique adds a darker glaze to the base coat and uses a glaze made of latex or acrylic paint. Choose paint colors that build contrast, a base color that is lighter---off-white, cream, light green (apple, olive) ---then a glaze coat of burnt umber, black-green or black. Give the furniture two coats of the base color. Once the base coat is dry, mix a glaze of half water, half glaze color (one cup paint to one cup water). Mix the two thoroughly, and brush over the furniture surface. Work an area of a foot or so at a time, allowing the mixture to get tacky and then wiping it off the furniture surface using a damp cloth. The darker color will stay inside the crevices and stain the piece, giving it an aged look. Add several layers of glaze coat if desired. As an alternative, spray paint the item three different colors (one layer each). Allow the first layer to dry completely, add the second color and then the third color before the second color is completely dry. Before the third color is dry, use a damp sponge and wipe at the corners, edges and areas that might indicate use or wear and tear.







Tags: base color, spray paint, metal furniture, base coat, before adding, brush Drag, coats base

Cast A Salmon Reel

Fly and lure-bait fishermen use specific casts when going for salmon. Depending on your fishing preference, these casts are needed skills for the "salmon arsenal." There is a period of trail-and-error when learning these casts, but once mastered they are the go-to casts when heading out for the species.


Instructions


Fly Fishing Cast


1. Stand facing the direction you wish to cast; face this direction dead-on. Bring the tip of the rod up to the 11 o'clock position.


2. Begin the 11 o'clock to 1 o'clock overhead cast movement (moving the tip of the rod between 11 and 1, leading out the fly line as you go).


3. Swing the tip of the rod over to your non-dominant side shoulder (if you are right handed, swing the tip over the left and vice versa). Pivot with your hips as you do, keeping the feet facing dead-on to the cast direction, downriver current.


4. Swing the tip further over the left shoulder and cast out downriver. The purpose here is to keep the cast going downriver so the fly moves upstream, over the salmon. This salmon cast is known as the Spey cast.


Standard Reel


5. Stand at your dock, pier, beach, river or boat. Rig your salmon rod with a baitcasting reel. These are heavy duty open spooled reels designed to cast long distances and provide power in the fight. Let out three feet of line from the tip of the rod.


6. Swing the bait and hook (with any sinkers you choose to place on the line) and stand, feet facing your casting area. Swing the bait and hook toward your dominant side, dipping the tip of the rod just below your chest level.


7. Snap the rod up and over your dominant shoulder, keeping the cast bail open. As your arm and hand is at the 10 o'clock position in front of you, release the cast bail so it allows the hook and bait to soar.


8. Turn the handle as soon as the hook and bait hit the water. Retrieve slowly but consistently, snapping the rod upward when the salmon strikes.







Tags: bait hook, cast bail, casts when, clock position, feet facing, hook bait

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Tuscan Home Design Ideas

Design a home inspired by the Tuscan countryside.


A Tuscan-inspired home conjures images of a rustic Italian countryside, elegant yet practical stone masonry and earth-inspired colors. The book "Dan Sater's European Classics" outlines that Tuscan architecture integrates basic natural resources of the countryside with an old-world ambiance of opulent turrets and porticos. Those looking to revamp their home with a Tuscan flair can take several measures to reflect this aesthetic. Does this Spark an idea?


Color Scheme


Earth tones of warm chocolate brown, dusty tan and copper orange are solid choices for a Tuscan home design. Avoid sterile white walls and, instead, paint rooms using darker brown, red or beige hues. Appropriate accent colors include tomato red, eggplant purple and dark green. Incorporate these accents in the form of various accessories like vases, artwork and candle holders.


Ceramics


Large clay pots holding herbs, wildflowers and other plants are common in Mediterranean regions like Tuscany. Replicate this lifestyle by selecting such pots for your own home and garden. Replace any plastic or wooden pots with terra-cotta-style pottery. Place ornate ceramic jars along entryways of the home or perch them on wall units or kitchen cabinets.


Wrought Iron


Wrought iron is a primary feature of a Tuscan-style home: It adorns windows, staircases, doors and even chandeliers. If remodeling the home to integrate these features is too much of an undertaking, opt for inexpensive wrought iron accessories. Buy wrought iron mirrors, sconces, candle holders, door knobs for the kitchen cabinets and picture frames.


Planter Boxes


In continuation with this earthy aesthetic, place planter boxes along the windowsills and add fresh flowers or herbs to the home. Or, grow herbs indoors and place the potted plants near the window. Herbs that people commonly grow in Tuscany include rosemary, sage, basil, oregano and thyme. In addition to such herbs adding a touch of Italy in the home, you can use them to make authentic Italian dishes as well: Sprinkle them liberally in marinara sauce or on top of pasta.


Stone and Tile Designs


Alexandra Black and Simon McBride explain in their book, "Tuscan Elements," that undressed limestone is what gives Tuscan architecture its distinct appearance. This tan, sandy-colored stone is used to make tiles, bricks and archways. If this type of rock is difficult to procure, select white marble, travertine, granite and sandstone. Use these tiles for countertops, kitchen and bathroom floors as well as backyard walkways. Create tile mosaics in the kitchen and along domed archways, especially for fountains.


Furniture


Tuscan furniture uses wood, leather and other natural elements. Though expensive, furniture in dark brown or black cracked leather provides the most authentic look. Otherwise, select furniture in earthy colors. Choose ornate, curvaceous settees and other Victorian-style pieces to match the old-world Tuscan design. Add dark wooden cabinets, side tables, kitchen tables and coffee tables.







Tags: candle holders, kitchen cabinets, Tuscan architecture, wrought iron

Care For A Cast Iron Chiminea

Chimineas originated in Mexico and are usually made of clay. Cast iron or aluminum chimineas last longer than clay and may be more practical if you live in a cold climate. Follow these steps to care for a cast iron chiminea. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Purchase some long-sleeved stove gloves before using your chiminea. These gloves will keep you from getting burned. Also purchase any fireplace tools you may need to stoke or help add logs to the fire. Buy a shovel to remove ashes.


2. Allow 4 to 6 hours to assemble your cast iron chiminea. You might need to re-drill some of the holes.


3. Decide on a safe place for your chiminea. If you want to set it on a deck, you will need to build a hearth underneath it.


4. Deal with rust spots right away. Sand the spot and clean it off before applying heat-resistant paint. The paint might not exactly match your chiminea, so you may want to consider this before purchasing a cast iron chiminea.


5. Buy a cover for your cast iron chiminea if it didn't come with one. It will help keep it from rusting and staining the ground underneath it. Also use the lid to keep water from getting inside of it.


6. Clean your chiminea by shoveling out all of the ashes after they are cool and taking out the grill. Clean the grill off and replace it.

Tags: cast iron, iron chiminea, your chiminea, cast iron chiminea, your chiminea want, chiminea want, from getting

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Identify Antique Table Fans

Early table fans operate on electricity, but without modern safety features.


Fans from the turn of the 20th century had two or three running speeds and turnabout features to direct the air, much like fans at the turn of the 21st century. However, vintage and antique electric table fans do not provide the safety features of modern table fans. A motor housing protects the motor, but there is little protection from spinning blades. The electrical cord has fabric covering and would not meet safety standards for today's new electrical products. Antique fans have a different look, weight and composition. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Examine the design and style of the fan. The old table fan models have a few wires casing the blades but do not have safety screens over the blades. There are usually four blades, representing the style of era. Early 20th century fans had Art Deco styled rectangular blades with two or three wires forming the blade enclosure. The base was often black enamel coating over cast iron. By the 1940s, the fan blades were fatter and overlapping, creating more air movement and quieter operation.


2. Check the composition of the base and blades. Antique fans have a base of cast iron that keeps the fan from vibrating on the table or desk. Brass was the choice metal for the fan blades until the 1940s, when manufacturers such as Emerson Electric created aluminum and steel fans. The 1937 "Silver Swan" was an Emerson product made with a cast iron base, but the guard was steel and the blades were aluminum. The VornadoFan from O.A. Sutton Corporation was a midcentury modern design. This desk fan has Bakelite blades and stamped aluminum blade housing, making it safer than earlier models.


3. Lift a table fan to identify an antique. Antique fans are heavy. The motor is located in the housing behind the fan blades, and the motors of the era were made of heavy metal parts. The motor, in addition to the cast iron base, gave the vintage and antique table fans substantial weight.


4. Examine the brand name of the fan. General Electric was one of the makers of desk fans at the turn of the 20th century. Westinghouse and Emerson also made table fans for the American market. AEG was a German maker of early desk fans, with a few imported to the United States. Antique fans are marked, usually on the front and often in the center of the guard.







Tags: Antique fans, cast iron, 20th century, table fans, Antique fans have, blades were, cast iron base

Tips On Painting A Baby Bed

You just received a hand-me-down baby bed, and it is in need of paint. You want to change the bed's color from blue to pink. The old paint is not too bad, but you need to sand it off first. The new baby is coming in less than a month---you need to get this baby bed painted. With a few tips and tricks, you will have the baby bed painted in a few hours and then move on to more baby projects.


Selecting Paint


Do your research before you buy paint for the hand-me-down baby bed. Purchase a high-quality lead-free enamel paint. Read the paint can or consult with a clerk in the paint department of your local hardware, paint or home improvement store to ensure the paint can be used to paint a baby bed. Don't use paint that is not safe for your baby.


Stripping & Sanding


Remove all of the old paint from the used baby bed before you can repaint it. Use a liquid paint stripper, a sanding block with 100-grit sandpaper or a power sander. If using a liquid paint stripper, work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area and wear a nose mask. Liquid paint strippers give off strong fumes.


If using a sanding block, have single sheets of sandpaper available for getting into small areas. The lower the grit number on the sandpaper, the courser the paper. To smooth the baby bed after sanding, use a 200-grit or higher sandpaper.


After you are done stripping or sanding the baby bed, wipe the bed down with a clean cloth or towel to remove any dust and debris.


Painting the Baby Bed


Use a roller to paint the large areas of the bed and a brush for the small areas. Use a few foam brushes to get into smaller areas. Paint the baby bed in a well-ventilated area like a covered patio, a room with plenty of air flow or a garage that is open and airy. Make sure the area is free of dirt and excessive dust blowing around. Use a plastic drop cloth under the bed so you can easily pull it off the bed's feet once the bed is dry. Wait until the enamel paint is dry to the touch before applying a second coat or doing any touch-ups.


Let the Paint Dry Properly


Let the paint dry completely, so there are no paint fumes. Most enamel paint dries within 24 hours. To make things easier on you, let the baby bed dry for at least 48 hours to ensure no problems later while you are moving the bed.


Placing the Baby Bed


After the paint has dried, place a few sheets of newspaper on the floor in the baby's room and set four bowls of white vinegar around the room. The vinegar will absorb lingering paint fumes once you place the baby bed in the room.


Solicit help in placing the baby bed in the baby's room. Avoid bumping the walls or damaging the bed's new paint job. Put the baby bed in the room at least a month before the baby arrives---so the white vinegar can absorb any odors. Once the paint odor is gone, remove the newspaper and bowls of vinegar.







Tags: baby room, enamel paint, baby painted, hand-me-down baby, liquid paint stripper, paint baby

Find Chinese Metal Wall Decor

Decorating homes and businesses with Asian influences can add a modern flair to a space while simultaneously referencing ancient traditions. Metal wall decorations, such as Chinese words, letters and animals, make a bold statement. Metal decor is also ideal for its durability. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


Where to Find Your Metal Decor


1. Shop Mountain Iron's online store, which features a large selection of Chinese metal characters, metal lanterns and metal yard stakes. To find your items on their site simply type "Chinese" or "Asian" into their "search" box.


2. Check out Artisan House's large selection of high-end wall art. They feature a variety of themed pieces. To find the Asian-style pieces type "Asian" into their search engine.


3. Visit Cost Plus World Market to find a variety of home decor items from around the world. You can find multiple Asian-inspired pieces by browsing through their wall art selection. Metal wall art can be found online and in their retail stores.


4. Search for "Chinese (or Asian) metal wall art" on E-bay. E-bay's enormous number of listed items changes every day. You may not find exactly what you had in mind, but you will almost always discover something that you want.


5. Have some Chinese wall art custom-made for you. Artists and craftspeople who work with metal can be found in nearly every large community. Look for "iron works" online or in your phonebook. You can also touch base with a fencing company. Most fencing companies are aware of iron artists and keep them on call for their high-end clients. An iron worker who can make a custom scrolling-leaf spiral staircase has the skills to make virtually any design.


6. Compliment your metal art with other Asian home decor. A good resource for Asian decorations is Oriental Decor. Oriental Decor carries a wide range of Asian accessories for the home or office.







Tags: Asian into, Asian into their, Chinese Asian, home decor, into their, into their search, large selection

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Care For Martha Stewart Cookware

Metal spoons can scratch non-stick surfaces.


The Martha Stewart brand of cookware offers a variety of pieces that will meet the needs of almost any home chef. Martha Stewart cookware is available in non-stick, stainless steel and cast iron materials. Clean-up and care of the cookware is generally easy, and the cookware itself is moderately to inexpensively priced. Determining what your cookware is made of will guide you in its proper cleaning, so that your Martha Stewart cookware lasts for many years and meals. Add this to my Recipe Box.


Instructions


1. Use the proper utensils. Metal spatulas, spoons and whisks can be used on stainless steel cookware but not on non-stick surfaces. Metal utensils can scratch non-stick cookware. Use silicone, plastic or wood utensils on non-stick pots and pans including Martha Stewart non-stick cookware.


2. Clean Martha Stewart non-stick cookware by hand immediately after using it. When cleaning non-stick cookware, use a sponge or a soft rag. Harsh scrubbers can scratch the non-stick surface. Most food will slide easily off the non-stick cookware if it is cleaned right after use.


3. Clean stainless steel cookware in the dishwasher or by hand. Martha Stewart stainless steel cookware is listed as dishwasher safe. Remove any leftover food or burnt-on food before placing the cookware in the dishwasher.


4. Clean cast iron cookware by hand. TLC advises that putting cast iron in the dishwasher will wash off the seasoning. Use a gentle soap for cleaning cast iron and do not soak it in the sink.


5. Dry your cookware completely. If you have washed the cookware by hand, use a dishtowel to dry it. Also be sure to dry any cookware that is still wet after being washed in the dishwasher.


6. Store cookware in a clean, cool place. TLC recommends storing cast iron cookware with the lid off.







Tags: Martha Stewart, cast iron, non-stick cookware, stainless steel, cookware hand, scratch non-stick, stainless steel cookware

Outdoor Living Space Decorating Ideas

Enhance a lawn with a comfortable seating arrangement.


Make the most of an outdoor living space by treating it as an extension of your home. Choose weather-proof furniture and decor pieces that can withstand the outdoor elements. Use an outdoor living space, such as a deck, patio or garden, to host alfresco dinners, impromptu summer soirees, holiday bashes and birthday parties. Create a tranquil outdoor space in which you can relax and unwind. Does this Spark an idea?


Outdoor Furniture


Choose a decorative and comfortable outdoor furniture set. Pick a fresh-looking white wicker love seat, chair and table set. Timeworn, whitewashed wood furniture will create a beach house-inspired style. Decorate with a wrought iron chair and table set to create a garden look. Place a small table in between the chairs to hold cups of coffee or lemonade. Go for a larger table with matching chairs if you plan to host outdoor dinners.


Decorative Textiles


Enhance the space with textiles. Place cushions on the chairs to add comfort and style. Choose citrus-hued cushions for a vibrant, summer-inspired look. Pick cushions featuring delicate floral patterns or pastel candy colors for a shabby chic or vintage style. If you are decorating a cement or tiled patio space, place a raffia or bamboo rug under a table or between two chairs.


Festive Decor Pieces


Decorate the space with festive pieces to celebrate holidays and birthdays. Insert whimsical garden stakes featuring insect shapes or party theme-inspired designs into the ground. Set up cherub or frog-shaped stone garden statues. Suspend brightly colored paper flower decorations from overhead branches. Enhance outdoor tables with vases of assorted garden flowers, or vintage tea cups filled with small herb plants.


Lighting Elements


Arrange soft lighting elements for outdoor evening parties. Set the mood by wrapping elegant white string lights around trees. Hang exotic-looking Chinese paper lanterns from tree branches. Line a table with vintage mason jars filled with vibrantly colored flowers for a casual, romantic look. Create a chandelier effect by suspending mini glass lanterns from the inside of a patio umbrella.







Tags: between chairs, chair table, elements outdoor, filled with, lanterns from, outdoor living, outdoor living space

Monday, April 11, 2011

Hang An Aluminum Farm Gate On Posts

Merchants sell new aluminum farm gates in several styles and colors. Each gate includes a hardware kit with lag bolts and hinge clamps for hanging the gate. Installing a gate that is level will help prevent sagging or rubbing on the ground as quickly as an unlevel gate. A wheel on the bottom of the closure side of the gate helps support its weight and ensures easy opening and closing without sagging. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions


1. Measure the distance between the hinges on your farm gate. The hinges attach to the gate on the top and bottom vertical spaces just below the top horizontal rail and above the bottom horizontal rail. Mark on the wooden post on the hinge side of the gate with a marking pen. Drill a hole on each mark with a 3/4-inch wood drill bit that is 3 inches deep.


2. Screw the two lag bolts ends with threads into each hole so that they fit hand-tight. Tighten each lag bolt fully with pliers so that the top lag bolt faces down and the bottom lag bolt faces up. Gate lag bolts are in the shape of a 7 with the top of the 7 being the threaded end and the bottom being the smooth end. Make sure that the smooth ends point in the correct position.


3. Attach the two hinge clamps to the gate and hand-tighten the bolt on each. Slide the hinge clamps into the protruding ends of the lag bolts at the bottom and then the top. Adjust the hinges by sliding them up or down vertically to sit on the lag bolts and tighten the bolts with pliers.


4. Level the gate so that it is level both horizontally and vertically. Use a level to determine if one of the hinges needs to be loosened or tightened to be plumb. It helps to have a second person hold the gate and level while the first person tightens and loosens the hinges.

Tags: hinge clamps, bolt faces, gate that, gate that level, horizontal rail

Heat With Coal Stoves

Learn heat with a coal stove.


Coal- and wood-fired stoves were the standard methods of heating until the early 20th century, when other methods were put into place. These stoves take longer to heat up but are quite efficient for such a simple device. Though most homes today are heated though means of electric- or gas-powered heaters, some homeowners prefer to heat their home with a coal stove. A coal stove can be an efficient heat source for a smaller home, and coal is less expensive to use than cords of wood.To use a coal stove efficiently, you must first learn start the stove and determine which kind of coal fuel you'll need to use. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Choose which type of coal to use for your stove. Coal comes in pea or pellet size, and nut size. Pellet or pea size coal is about the size of a quarter or half dollar. Nut size coal can be as small as a golf ball or as big as a baseball. The larger pieces of coal take longer to heat up and burn much hotter than the smaller sizes. If you have a large room to heat, use large coal.


2. Place kindling in the stove kindling tray. This is the bottom tray of the stove just above the bottom vent. Light the kindling and wait for a fire to begin burning. You can use newspaper or sticks as kindling.


3. Place a scoop of coal into the coal tray and keep adding kindling to the kindling tray so the fire stays lit. This will heat up the coal in about 20 minutes.


4. Stoke the coal with a poker and turn the red-hot coals over onto the black coals every half hour. Wait until all the coals are burning red hot, then add a small scoop of coals on top. You should do this once every hour. Don't completely cover up the red coals or you may snuff them out. Just add a few to increase or maintain heat.







Tags: coal stove, coal about, kindling tray, longer heat, size coal, take longer

Repair Cast Iron By Brazing

Fill cast iron holes through brazing.


Brazing is a process of joining two pieces of metal by a third piece of metal melted between them. The melted metal is called a filler and the two pieces that need to be joined together are called wetting. The filler metal is distributed between the two metal parts by capillary action. You can repair cast iron and other metals this way. Brazing, like soldering and welding, uses a flux. This is a chemical agent that facilitates the process by removing oxygen from the metal needing repair. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Inspect the part of your cast iron structure that needs to be repaired to check the amount of flux you need. The the most common brazing flux is borax, also used for braze-welding.


2. Prepare the cast iron parts that need to be joined together. Use a hand grinder tool to thoroughly clean both parts of the cast iron structure. You can use a wire brush instead of a grinder.


3. Preheat the cast iron to 300 F by using an oxy-acetylene torch. Preheat the cast iron locally, only on the part you wish to repair. This technique will further prepare the cast iron for the brazing process by removing any water from the cast iron. Make the preheating slow and gradual.


4. Apply the borax flux to the cast iron while it is still hot from the torch. Use borax, or a similar flux, in a form of a powder or a paste.


5. Heat the flux with the oxy-acetylene torch to melt it completely. The flux will then use capillary action to penetrate between the cast iron parts and join them firmly.


6. Use the torch to keep the temperature around 300 F for half-an-hour to an hour. This will allow the cast iron to settle with the flux and let the joint cool off slowly. As with preheating, the cooling off process needs to be slow and gradual.


7. Leave the cast iron to cool off completely when the repaired place is tightly joined and firm.

Tags: cast iron, cast iron, capillary action, cast iron parts, cast iron structure, iron parts

Friday, April 8, 2011

Make Bed Slats

Bed slats are horizontal supports for the box springs or mattress on a bed. The slats rest on a narrow shelf or ledge just inside the bed frame. Wooden slats usually come with a bed when it is purchased. Knowing make your own bed slats comes in handy when you need extras for added safety or replacements for broken, missing or lost slats. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Beginning about 10 inches from the headboard, use a metal measuring tape to measure straight across from one side of the bed frame to the other. Make sure that the tape is held against the inside of the frame. (You'll get the most accurate measurements if you enlist a helper for this step.) Write down the width measurement.


2. Measure the width of the bed again about 10 inches from the footboard, to make sure there is no discrepancy in the width of the bed frame from top to bottom.


3. If there is a difference of more than ½ inch between the two measurements, take four separate, equidistant measurements (for a twin bed) along the length of the bed. (Be sure to label the measurements as "slat 1, 2, 3 and 4" as you write them down.) Queen- and king-size beds will require five or six slats, so measure accordingly.


4. Take your measurements to a lumber yard or home supply store. Have 1-by-4 inch boards cut ½ inch shorter than your width measurements, or purchase the boards and cut them yourself at home.


5. Position the slats in the bed frame. For a platform bed, position the mattress directly on the bed slats. Use box springs under the mattress for added comfort.







Tags: about inches, about inches from, inches from, inside frame