Porch Cover Styles

An open porch style is appropriate for rustic homes in mild climates.

A porch cover provides shelter from the elements and creates a unified look between the house and the porch. Styles and materials options are almost unlimited, but you'll want to choose a porch cover that complements the home's style. How you use the porch may also dictate the porch cover you install. Does this Spark an idea?

Rustic

Hand-hewn logs or beams as a porch cover evoke a rustic feeling that complements a cabin or Craftsman bungalow. Rough logs and sticks make a simple, open porch cover for Santa Fe style homes. A tin roof is a traditional porch cover for country homes.

Traditional

Screens provide protection from biting insects.

A traditional porch cover typically has an asphalt or tile roof and finished ceiling. The porch cover and porch may run along the front of the house, or may even extend around the side. Decorative details include hand-turned posts, gingerbread trim or ceiling fans. Supporting columns may be metal, wood, brick or stone. The roof shape may be flat, pitched, gabled or even domed.

Pergola

A pergola or arbor-type porch cover is made from open beams of wood. These covers provide shade protection, although they do not offer shelter from snow or rain. They are best used in areas with mild weather. Pergolas may include decorative beams or wood finishes. Cover a pergola with climbing vines for a garden-themed porch.

Portico

The focal point of a portico is almost always the front door, although a portico may be large enough to include a seating area, as well. Porticos vary in style and materials, but usually include a flat, pitched or domed roof and supporting columns. Porticos may include a balcony accessed by a second floor door or window.

Considerations

When selecting a porch cover, consider the overall design scheme of the home and choose materials that complement the home's existing architecture. Consider also the amount of light a porch receives. A north-facing porch may seem gloomy with a deep porch cover. A narrow or open cover allows more sunlight in while providing protection from wind and rain.

Tags: porch cover, beams wood, flat pitched, open porch, porch cover, protection from

Repair Steps With Existing Iron Rails

Wrought iron stair railings.

Many older homes have details that are rarely found in modern new construction. Iron railings are one such detail. Wrought iron railings were common for the front stairs on many modest homes. It is important to note that these are not cast iron railings. Cast iron railings would only be found on the most expensive homes that had large front staircases and would feature much thicker railings and supports than the typical wrought iron railings. Wrought iron is much easier to work with and repair than cast iron. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Priming and Painting

1. Scrape all loose paint and primer from the railings. Use a wire brush to remove any remaining loose paint or primer and remove any rust. Ideally the scraping and brushing will result in the railing being mostly exposed bare metal.

2. Wipe down the railings with the cloth rags to remove any dust or loose debris. It is best not to use water to wash the railings as iron rusts very easily, and you may end up causing the railings to rust prior to priming them.

3. Place the drop cloth on the steps beneath the railing. Apply the metal primer to all of the metal surfaces of the railing. It is important to prime the metal as soon as you have finished scraping and brushing it. Iron rusts very quickly if it is exposed to any moisture before it is primed. Brush on at least two coats of paint allowing for appropriate dry time between coats as directed by manufacturer's recommendations for the chosen paint.

Fixing Loose Metal Attachments

4. Mix the two parts of the body filler epoxy together. Use putty knife to apply the body filler to loose railings and then clamp the railing into place with the c-clamp. The body filler epoxy should harden within 15 minutes. Use the putty knife to remove any excess body filler. Repeat as necessary for all loose connections.

5. Remove the c-clamp from the railing. Smooth all of the exposed epoxy with sandpaper.

6. Place the drop cloth on stairs under the railings. Prime the exposed epoxy areas. Brush on at least two coats of paint, allowing for appropriate dry time between coats as directed by manufacturer's recommendations.

Reattaching Railings to Wooden Steps

7. Using the socket wrench, remove all the screws or bolts that attach the railing to the wooden stair treads. Either replace any broken wooden stair treads or repair any rotted sections with bondo epoxy or with wood epoxy penetrant. Allow epoxy application to dry according to the manufacturer's directions.

8. Place the railing back on the stairs and mark the location of the bolts on the repaired stair tread. Remove the railing. Drill a guide hole for the bolts at the marked locations.

9. Place the railing back on the stairs and reattach the bolts using the socket wrench.

Tags: body filler, iron railings, Wrought iron, allowing appropriate, allowing appropriate time, appropriate time, appropriate time between

Build Wooden Fences From Trees

Build Wooden Fences From Trees

Buck and pole, or buck and rail as it is often called, is the most efficient fence to build when using only trees. Jack and lodgepole pine are the best trees for the purpose because of their tall, straight trunks and small diameter. This type of fence will last decades and requires no material purchases except nails. This is a job that needs at least two workers. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Select the trees to be cut for the fence project. A section of fence requires two 7 to 8 foot posts, 5 to 8 inches in diameter, for the A frame buck. The first section will need two A frame bucks built. Four rails, 12 feet long, 2 to 3 inches in diameter. One cross pole, 6 feet long, 2 to 3 inches in diameter, for each A frame buck. With the chainsaw cut these posts and poles.

2. Lay the two posts on the ground with the tops crossed over each other and 12 inches of each post extending above the cross. Lay the 6 foot cross pole across the legs of the two posts, 8 inches from the bottom of the posts. Adjust the posts until the bottoms are even and there is 6 to 8 inches of the cross pole extending past each side.

3. Mark the top and bottom posts where they cross each other. Pull the posts apart and saw a 3 inch deep notch into each post where they meet. Cut the notch as wide as the post. Lay the notch of the top post into the notch of the bottom post. Trim if necessary to make the two notches fit together.

4. Lay the cross pole back over the bottom of the crossed posts just as before to make sure it still extends past the post sides. Drive one 80d spike through the crossed poles where they are notched. Drive a 60d nail through each end of the cross pole into the posts. The A frame buck is complete.

5. Make a second A frame buck the same way.

6. Stand the first A frame up and either wire it to a tree or nail temporary supports to it so it does not fall down. Have the other worker hold the second A frame upright, 10 feet distance from the first A frame. The rails will be mounted on the A frames, on the side facing into the property being fenced.

7. Take a rail and push one end up into the fork of the first A frame, let the rail extend 12 inches past the A frame post. Nail the rail into place on the post with a 70d spike. Go to the opposite end of the rail. Push the rail up into the fork of the second A frame, let it extend 12 inches past the post, and drive a 70d spike through it and into the post.

8. Lay the bottom rail on top of the extensions of the cross poles coming out of the A frame posts. Nail this rail in place by driving a 70d spike through each end of the rail and into the posts.

9. Measure equal distances between the top and bottom rails for the second and third rails. Nail these rails into place with 70d spikes in the same manner as the first two rails.

10. Build a third A frame buck. Stand it up 10 feet from the last A frame. Spike the top three rails on in the same manner as the last section; however set the rails just under and pushed up against the rails extending out from the last A frame. Set the bottom rail on top of the previous bottom rail and nail that end in place, but don't nail the end going into the next A frame.

11. Build a fourth A frame buck. Nail on the top three rails just above and resting on top of the extended rails from the previous A frame. Slip the bottom rail under the previous bottom rail and nail both bottom rails in place. Leave the end going to the next A frame loose.

12. Continue building A frame bucks and alternating the rails above or below the previous rails. Nail only the one end of each bottom rail so that the next bottom rail can be put under it. Repeat this pattern until the fence is completed.

Tags: bottom rail, frame buck, cross pole, first frame, inches diameter, rail into

Price An Outdoor Fence

An outdoor fence can provide added security and privacy for your home, and it also can enclose your yard to keep children and pets from wandering away from home. In addition to these uses, an outdoor fence can provide a visual outline of your property, and it can be a great backdrop for landscaping, giving the yard a more complete and attractive look. If you want to install an outdoor fence, the first step is to determine the cost. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Measure the perimeter of the area you want to fence. Use a tape measure to determine the length of each side of the fence, then add those lengths together to get the total number of feet of fence you need. Start by placing the tape measure against your home's exterior wall and measuring out.

2. Figure the number of support posts you need. If putting up a wood fence, there is typically one post every 6 feet along the fence, so divide the number of feet of fencing you need by 6 to determine the number of posts you need.

3. Price outdoor fencing. The price of fencing varies considerably, depending on the type of fencing -- such as wood, vinyl or metal -- and the height of your fence. Check prices at home improvement centers as well as companies that specialize in installing fencing.

4. Include in your estimate the cost of an outdoor fence door, hinges and assembly fasteners or screws. Each of these items is sold separately, and costs vary from place to place.

Tags: fence provide, number feet, outdoor fence, outdoor fence, outdoor fence provide

Decorate The Inside Of A Spanishstyle Home

Wrought iron and framed windows are characteristic of Spanish design.

Spanish style homes feature stucco exteriors, arched windows and porticos, tile roofs and wrought iron railings on balconies and stairways. The interior architecture is characterized by arched doorways, plaster walls, tiled and hardwood flooring, and floor plans that extend the living space to the outdoors. Complement the interior of your Spanish style home with rich color, elaborately carved furnishings and Spanish inspired accessories. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Remove carpeting from the floor and add wide-planked hardwood in a dark wood tone. Add tile flooring to the kitchen and bathrooms, choosing an earth-toned porcelain or ceramic tile.

2. Paint the walls in earth tone colors and add a faux finish to the walls. Choose a color wash finish, a faux plaster finish or a glazed finish.

3. Frame interior windows with a wide trim that coordinates with the hardwood flooring and wall color.

4. Install sconces with wrought iron bases and decorative shades at the hallways and near entryways into the home. Hang chandeliers over the dining table and in the living room. Choose chandeliers with gold or black bases, preferably wrought iron. Avoid brass or nickel finishes.

5. Add wrought iron railings to stairways where possible. Install wrought iron wall art that reflects similar patterns to wrought iron or railings used throughout the home.

6. Arrange large, heavily upholstered furniture in the formal living spaces. Choose pieces upholstered in rich reds, greens and gold colors, depicting pastoral scenes or Moorish design patterns. Moorish patterns include curving shapes with intricate graphic patterns that resemble shapes found in nature as well as in the architecture. Patterns resembling Gothic arches or stylized leaves are appropriate for Spanish decor.

7. Arrange smaller furnishings -- such as wood chests, armoires and benches -- in the living room and throughout the remainder of the home. Choose solid color fabrics in reds, greens and yellows for side chairs.

8. Toss area rugs throughout the house, except for the kitchen and bathroom. Choose rugs that reflect the color scheme and patterns in the upholstery fabrics.

9. Use Saltillo tile, sometimes referred to as Spanish tile, for flooring for the outdoor space. Spanish architecture often includes a back patio or courtyard for outdoor dining. Add a long, trestle-style table to the patio and a selection of chairs. Use chairs found at thrift shops, swap meets and other unconventional outlets to create the rustic appeal associated with dining outdoors.

10. Arrange painted pottery and dishware as accessories throughout the house. Add large pots filled with herbs to the outdoor dining area.

11. Hang oil paintings and prints depicting Spanish countryside and Spanish architecture in strategic areas throughout the home.

Tags: iron railings, wrought iron, wrought iron, wrought iron railings, hardwood flooring, living room, outdoor dining

Vancouver Backyard Landscaping Ideas

Your backyard can be so much more than just land in the back of your home. Turn it into a haven where you can relax, entertain and simply enjoy nature while on the comfort of your own property. If you live in Vancouver, where the weather can be cool, there are landscaping ideas that you can follow to enjoy this space to the fullest. Does this Spark an idea?

Trees and Shrubs

Select the trees and shrubs you would like to plant. As the largest natural items that will be incorporated in your yard, trees and shrubs will help set the stage for your design. Coniferous trees and shrubs add interest year round, as they retain their color even during the cold winter months. Pacific silver fir, grand fir and Rocky Mountain juniper are all evergreen plants which do well in Vancouver.

Red bearberry and western dwarf misletoe are two shrubs that will add color to your yard all year. Sarsaparilla and Swedish dwarf dogwood are shrubs that add punches of color with seasonal vibrant blooms and leaves that change color in the autumn.

Big leaf maple, Alaska birch and red alder are trees that add vibrant greens to your landscape during the spring and summer and colorful foliage during the fall months.

Flowers

Whether you plant them or display them in pots, flowers are a surefire way to add interest to your backyard landscape. There are a variety of flowers that are native to the Vancouver area. For easy to care for flowers, opt for perennials, as they return year after year once they are planted. Perennials that thrive in Vancouver include Canada columbine, goldenrod, purple coneflowers and coreopsis.

While annuals are higher maintenance flowers because they only last for one year, they provide some of the most vivid pops of color. Annuals that do well in Vancouver include calendula, Iceland poppy and morning glory.

Outdoor Furnishings

Furnishings help to turn the backyard into an inviting space where you and your friends and family will enjoy spending time. Create an outdoor dining room with a table and chairs. There are a variety of styles and materials from which to choose, including round, oval, and rectangular; and wood, wicker, wrought iron and aluminum. Assemble a collection of lounge chairs for a seating area where you can relax. Adirondack chairs and outdoor chaise lounges provide comfort and add style to your yard. Enjoy those cool Vancouver evenings by making a fire pit the center of your seating area. For the ultimate in outdoor relaxation, string a hammock between two trees.

Decorative Elements

Decorative elements help to complete the look of your backyard. Twinkling lights placed in trees and tiki torches add ambiance to the area after the sun goes down. Attract Canadian fowl with bird feeders and birdbaths. Keep track of the time with a decorative sun dial.

Tags: your yard, seating area, shrubs that, that will, There variety

Repaint Metal Outdoor Furniture

Metal outdoor furniture should be checked periodically for rust and deterioration. Exposure to the elements can cause even the best paint job to wear and become a hazard to use. Repaint these items as needed to keep them properly maintained and ready for year-round use. Always use paint products made specifically for the right metal type (ferrous or wrought iron, aluminum, galvanized metal) for the best results. Keep track of paint brand, color name and number to sustain the original color. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Remove any surfaces that are not metal--glass tops, decorative plastics--or protect these surfaces using painter's tape.

2. Pry and sand off loose paint and rust using sandpaper or a wire brush for wrought iron, non-metal scouring pads for aluminum, and gentle use of a wire brush for galvanized metals. Sand all bubbled areas of old paint and make sure all rust is removed. Wipe away remaining grit with a damp cloth and allow the structure to dry.

3. Apply a fine-grit sandpaper to smooth all surfaces of the metal furniture. This preps the surface to receive and bond with new paint. Wipe away grit.

4. Wash the metal furniture using mild detergent, water and a soft brush to remove remaining dirt, debris and oil from the metal surface. Dry thoroughly with a clean towel or rag.

5. Place the furniture at eye level and on a surface protected with a drop cloth.

6. Apply the corrosion-resistant spray primer to the furniture. Begin and end each push of the spray nozzle an inch or two to one side of the furniture and carry the paint across the furniture surface with a back and forth sweeping motion. Ending away from the furniture surface prevents the primer from becoming too thick in one area. Allow the primer to dry before continuing. A single coat or primer is usually all that is needed unless more is recommended by the manufacturer.

7. Apply the the spray color and use the same sweeping technique used to apply the primer. Apply two to three thin coats instead of one thick coat for a smooth finish. Thick coats of paint can drip and run and ruin the look of the furniture. Always allow each coat to dry according to the product directions before applying the next coat of paint.

Tags: furniture surface, metal furniture, Wipe away, wire brush, wrought iron

Restore An Iron Bed

Iron bed

Restoring an iron bed whether it is a precious inherited piece from the family or a find at a yard sale is a project that is definitely worth doing. A lot of the time these beds have multiple coats of paint that is rusted and flaking and will require total removal to return the bed to pristine condition,to increase its life span to hand down to the next generation. This project will require time and some tedious work, but the finished iron bed is a work of art. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Restore an Iron Bed

1. Use a wire brush to remove as much of flaking paint and rust as possible. Use the small wire brush on any carvings or filigree to get into the tighter areas. Sand large flat areas. Wear a mask to avoid inhaling any lead dust from the paint.

2. Apply paint stripper to small areas following the manufacturer's instructions and time recommendation. Scrape the paint stripper mixture with the putty knife and place on a sheet of plastic for proper disposal. Depending on the the number of paint layers, this procedure may have to be repeated several times. It is crucial to remove all old paint.

3. Rinse the iron bed frame with clear water to remove all paint stripper residue. Allow to dry.

4. Sand any rough areas as smooth as possible. Wipe off sanding dust or vacuum thoroughly. Make sure all dust is removed for a smooth finish. Apply a coat of rust inhibitor and allow to dry. The inhibitor will fill in smaller pits and indentations in the iron bed frame as well as stop new rust from forming.

5. Spray the iron bed with two coats of metal primer. Allow primer dry between coats. Allow the iron bed to thoroughly dry.

6. Spray the iron bed with two or three coats of paint recommended for metal. Allow the recommended drying time between coats. Keep in mind that drying times vary due to temperature and humidity.

7. Allow the iron bed paint to dry for a few days and apply a light coat of automotive wax to protect the finish.

Tags: paint stripper, Allow iron, between coats, coats paint, iron frame

Paint Zinc Patio Furniture

Because zinc is not prone to rust, patio furniture composed of this metal requires no painting to keep it safe from harsh weather elements. If you'd like to change the color of the patio furniture, painting is the answer. Unfortunately, zinc is not an ideal candidate for new finishes. Professional painters use metallic etching primers on zinc surfaces to ready them for paint. If you want the furniture's new finish to hold up to abrasion and weather, do likewise.

Instructions

Preparation

1. Remove any soft materials such as cushions from the furniture and place them in a safe area.

2. Wash the zinc patio furniture. Scrub the zinc with a water-based cleanser, using coarse steel wool. Don't use a soft sponge, as this may leave unseen dirt and oils behind. Rinse the patio furniture using a water hose. Place the furniture in the sun, and allow it to dry for at least an hour.

3. Cover any portions of the patio furniture that are to remain unfinished, or they will be ruined by primer and paint overspray. Masking paper and professional painter's tape are well suited for this. Don't use newspaper and/or masking tape, or bleed-through may occur.

Finishing

4. Place the furniture on a dropcloth to protect the work surface.

5. Prime the zinc furniture to promote a long-lasting finish. Use an etching primer with rust-inhibitive properties in case the furniture is made of another type of metal coated with a thin zinc layer. Don't brush the primer onto the furniture, as this will leave subtle flaws in the finish. Use spray cans of etching primer. Spray in a sweeping motion, maintaining 8 inches between the zinc furniture and the spray tip at all times. Let the furniture dry in the sun for three hours.

6. Paint the zinc patio furniture as you primed it. Use an enduring oil spray enamel.

7. Let the furniture dry in the sun for two hours. Add a second coat if coverage is poor.

Tags: patio furniture, etching primer, Place furniture, zinc furniture, zinc patio, zinc patio furniture

Repair Wrought Iron Fencing

Keep iron surfaces painted to avoid rust.

Like any other type of fencing, wrought iron requires maintenance to preserve its structural soundness. Moisture from rain, snow and humidity will attack bare iron through chips in the paint. The moisture causes rust to form, which leads to corrosion in the metal surface. It's best to do preventive maintenance to keep the rust and corrosion at bay. You can repair minor cracks yourself, but should seek an experienced welder for major holes and other problems. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Turn a hose nozzle to the highest pressure setting. Wash all loose dirt and debris from the fence and let it dry completely.

2. Hold a steel-bristled brush firmly in one hand. Move the brush back and forth across the fence to remove large pieces of rust.

3. Change to a metal file. File the flat areas. Sand the rounded portions with coarse grit sandpaper. Wipe away all shaving particles and sanding dust with a damp rag.

4. Put on rubber gloves, protective eyewear and a mask. Spray phosphoric acid onto the wrought iron. Leave the acid on the surface overnight. The acid will convert invisible rust into a crust of iron phosphate. Brush away the iron phosphate with a steel-bristled brush.

5. Mix two-part metal patch compound according to the package instructions. You can buy patch compound at an automotive store. Choose an epoxy resin formula for best results. Pick up a small amount with a putty knife and spread it into small cracks in the iron. Smooth it out over the top of the iron to create a seamless patch. Let the compound dry completely.

6. Coat the fence with oil-based metal primer. Apply the primer with a disposable chip brush. Cover the entire fence with a light coat of the primer. Let the primer dry.

7. Paint the iron fence with oil-based metal paint. Start at the top of the fence and work downward. Apply a thin coat of paint with a good quality brush. Let the first coat dry to the touch, then apply a second coat.

Tags: fence with, patch compound, fence with oil-based, iron phosphate, oil-based metal, steel-bristled brush, with oil-based

Make Wrought Iron Rust

Designers use wrought iron for outdoor metalwork.

Any iron object rusts in the proper conditions, even tough wrought iron. Wrought iron's durability comes from its manufacturing process. Metalworkers smelt wrought iron in the way that people who barbecue smoke ribs--low and slow. The long, gentle smelting process allows impurities to be identified and removed. While wrought iron withstands physical demands better than normal, more contaminated irons, it still can fall prey to the chemical reaction that forms rust. The corrosion occurs when oxygen and moisture combine on the surface of the metal. As such, moist conditions are the key to make wrought iron rust. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Store the wrought iron in an area with humidity greater than 65 percent. The high moisture content in the air will transfer to the surface of the wrought iron.

2. Dampen the wrought iron periodically if humidity in the air is not enough to maintain a moist sheen on the wrought iron's surface. Run a wet sponge over the metal, and do not dry the metal.

3. Minimize air flow. Avoid running fans and blowers near the wrought iron you want to rust. Circulating air can blow water droplets off the surface of the metal.

4. Spread a thin layer of salt over the wrought iron's surface. Salt helps to introduce moisture to the iron faster, which speeds the rusting process and allows rust to form in less-humid conditions.

5. Touch the wrought iron frequently with your bare hands to introduce skin oils that produce the same effect as salt.

Tags: wrought iron, iron surface, process allows, surface metal, wrought iron surface

Convert A Cast Iron Bed

You can keep your ornate cast iron bed by converting it to a standard size.

Cast iron beds have been around for hundreds of years. You could have an odd-sized antique cast iron bed that cannot fit a modern mattress, or a modern cast iron bed in which you have invested a lot of money and suddenly need to convert. These kinds of beds can be converted upwards, such as from a double to a queen, using readily available converter kits. The beauty of a cast iron bed is that the iron frame easily lends itself to welding, so your conversion options are limited only by your ability to work with metals. You will be able to convert the bed with a converter kit if you can follow the manufacturer's instructions. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Read the instructions that come with your converter kit. You will need to determine how you will attach that particular kit to your bed frame, what materials are already in the kit, which ones you will need to acquire and whether you will need to remove the headboard and footboard. Some kits convert the bed by attaching steel rails over the existing frame of the bed, while others attach directly to the headboard and footboard, replacing the frame of the bed entirely.

2. Remove the mattress from the bed and remove the headboard and footboard, if necessary. Store the rails and cross slats securely in case you ever wish to convert the bed back to its original form.

3. Attach the converter kit to the headboard and footboard and secure it with bolts and plates, as required. For some beds, especially very old ones, it may be necessary to add board slats to the headboard in order to reinforce the attachment. You would hook the converter kit into the reinforcement. You can also purchase adapter conversion plates that attach to the iron frame of the headboard, instead of using wooden reinforcements.

4. Attach the central rail and any additional rails or slats you feel like adding to the frame. Make sure to securely bolt and fasten the rails and make sure that the central rail is securely anchored to the floor to ensure even weight distribution. Make any necessary adjustments after placing the new mattress on the frame.

Tags: cast iron, headboard footboard, will need, cast iron that, central rail

Make A Halloween Cemetery Fence

Home stores sell a variety of pre-fabricated miniature fence sections. These pieces are traditionally sold to gardeners that want to separate flowerbeds but they have other uses. The petite borders they produce are ideal for creating mock cemetery fences for Halloween decorations. Because they are low to the ground, little trick-or-treaters can step over the fence and explore your decorative cemetery. Plus they are quick and easy to put in place. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Measure the perimeter of the area you wish to turn into a Halloween cemetery. A tape measure can get the job done if you plan to create a square plot. If the border of your cemetery will be irregular in shape, use string to outline your ideal border including the odd angles you desire. Measure the string to get the correct dimensions.

2. Purchase enough pre-fabricated fence pieces to surround the cemetery at a local home store. Use the measurements you took in Step 1 to ensure you purchase the correct number of pieces.

3. Color the fence pieces completely black in an open, fully ventilated area using spray paint. Use newspaper as a drop cloth to protect the ground or your floor coverings from paint. Allow the pieces to dry completely before moving on to the next step.

4. Add white accents to the fence pieces using craft paint. To create a look similar to that found on old wrought iron fencing, use the paintbrush to add white veining. White splatter can also add character to your fence. Allow the pieces to dry completely before moving on to the next step.

5. Distress the fence pieces using a hammer. Dents and scraps will make the new fence pieces appear old and weathered. Take care not to injury yourself in the process. Ensure thumbs and fingers are out of harm's way before striking with the hammer and wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from flying shards.

6. Install the fence according to the product's instructions. Some fencing sections can be easily installed by simply placing them side-by-side and hammering them directly into the earth. Others require you to connect the sections with fasteners before affixing them to the ground. Be sure to leave a entryway open for your guests.

7. Decorate the fence. Use fake cobwebs, plastic spiders and snakes or any other Halloween decorations you like to adorn your creation.

Tags: fence pieces, pieces completely, Allow pieces, Allow pieces completely, before moving, before moving next

Restore Painted Furniture

Stripping painted furniture to restore its wood finish takes patience and the right tools.

If you own a piece of high-quality painted furniture you'd like to restore, it's possible to transform it for a few hundred dollars less than a professional restorer would charge. But according to Don Maxwell, owner of Maxwell's Furniture Restoration located in Mountainside, New Jersey, it's a painstaking and messy process. It requires patience and a willingness to spend the necessary time (a couple of days) to turn your ugly duckling into a swan. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Preparation

1. Remove knobs, pulls and hinges. Label or number them and take digital photos to prevent problems reassembling afterward.

2. If the furniture is damaged, repair it with carpenter's glue and clamps. Let it dry overnight.

3. Assemble protective goggles, gloves, apron and respirator. Find a place to work outdoors or in a ventilated garage. Place cardboard, covered with layers of newspaper, under the furniture.

Stripping, Sanding and Staining

4. Evenly apply a thick coat of medium-fast stripper, containing a small amount of chemicals, with a paintbrush. Or use a slow-acting, nontoxic, water-based stripper.

5. After 1/2 hour (or 18 to 24 hours for slow stripper) paint should bubble and wrinkle. Use a scraper to lightly lift off the paint. If it doesn't yield easily, apply a second coat of stripper over the first. Wait another 30 minutes.

6. Remove sludge from flat areas with a scraper. Use scraping tools, such as cut paintbrushes, sanding cord or a pointed dowel, to remove paint from grooves, indentations and other problem surfaces. Reapply stripper to these areas if necessary.

7. Rinse off the remaining stripper with a commercially available wash or denatured alcohol. Let furniture dry thoroughly. Rub with 0000 steel wool. Sand very lightly with a power sander and 100-grit sandpaper. Hand sand with a sanding block.

8. Rub with a tack cloth to eliminate wood dust. Brush stain on evenly and let dry.

Tags: painted furniture

Decorate Tuscan Style Inexpensively

Tuscan Style Decorating

Tuscan Style decorating does not need to cost you a fortune. This style of decorating uses color, texture, food/wine, and nature and turns it into art. Tuscan décor takes the old and brings it back to life. You can go to thrift stores, garage sales, or discount stores and use these ideas to create the Tuscan style decorating look in your home, inexpensively.

Instructions

1. Use Color in Tuscany Decor

The main colors used in this style of home decorating include terra cotta, browns, deep reds, oranges, yellows, and greens. Use these colors on the walls, paint furniture, in fabrics, and other details you plan on adding to your Tuscan decorated home

2. Add Texture to Create Tuscan Style

The easiest way to add some texture to the wall is by using a texture additive with regular latex paint. There are different types of textures and then you control how light or heavy by how much additive you use. Start light and add until you have the texture you want.

Textured tile can be used as a border in the kitchen or bathroom. You can find discontinued or mismatched terra cotta or stone tiles at discount or home improvement stores. These tiles can also be broken and used to create a Tuscany style table top. Find an old table at a garage sale or thrift shop. Arrange and glue the broken tiles on the top of the table and use grout for in between. A quick coat of grout sealer and your Tuscany style table is ready to add to your Tuscan style living room or as a night stand in your bedroom.

3. Add Tuscan Style with Old Wood Beams

Wood beams across the ceiling of your room is definitely Tuscan style decorating but this can be expensive. You can make your own wood beams. Home improvement stores usually have a 'bargain bin' with scuffed up or odd sized lumber. Cut the wood and frame it to make a hollow beam. If it is not scuffed up enough distress it with a hammer or burn it with a torch. Add stain and your Tuscan style wood beams are ready to put up.

4. Use Old to Create New with Old World Tuscan Style Furniture

What was old is now new when your decorate Tuscany style. Go to flea markets or garage sales to find old furniture. Look for old styles of kitchen cabinets, old table and chairs, buffets, or small side tables. If there are not enough of the same style, or even sized chairs, that is even better. This will create visual appeal and texture in appearance. To give your newly found treasure the distressed look of the old world Tuscan style you can hit it with a hammer and use a crackle coat finish.

5. Find Accents for Tuscany Style Decorating Finishing Touches

Terra cotta and copper pots can be found at thrift stores. Be creative with these depending on the room you are decorating in the Tuscan style. Fill the pots with draping greenery and display them in groups. Fill the pots with grapes or fruit since food is a staple for Tuscan decorating. The pots could also be used for storage for items such as remotes in a family room or tissue paper in the bathroom.

Your local garden center has discontinued or last years style of arbors. Place this in the corner of your family room or near a window and densely drape it with greenery and bright colored flowers. Place two small chairs and wrought iron table in front of it and you have created your own bistro setting. Enjoy your morning coffee or your glass of wine in the evening sitting in your own bistro.

Wrought iron is also a staple in Tuscany decorating. The salvage yard is a good place to find old gates or pieces of fencing. Use these to create a wall hanging or use two scrolls of the gate on the wall and stencil wording in between. Wall tattooing is a great Tuscan decorating technique.

6. Move Tuscan Style Decorating to the Outdoors

To create your own backyard Tuscan courtyard all you need are some window boxes and a fountain. Add as much color as you can and add as much texture as you desire with paving blocks, patio tiles, etc.

Tags: Tuscan Style, your Tuscan, family room, Fill pots, Fill pots with, garage sales

Make A Giant Wall Clock

Making a giant wall clock will dress up your space in no time.

Decorating a home can be a fun and exciting project, but it can also become expensive very quickly. To save money, try making your own giant wall clock. A decorative giant wall clock is inexpensive to make and it will change the look of your entire room once you hang it up. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Visit a craft store and purchase a wrought iron clock kit, a set that includes the hands of a clock installed to a small motor with a place for a battery. Buy the correct battery for the clock kit as well. Make sure the clock kit includes the correct screws for installation. Purchase large wrought iron numbers one through 12, at least 2 inches long each, to match the clock kit.

2. Select the location on your wall where you would like to install your giant wall clock. Place a pencil mark in the exact location that you would like the center of the clock to be. Measure horizontally one foot from the mark to your left and make another mark. Measure a second time horizontally one foot from the mark, except measure to the right. Starting from the floor, measure the distance to each of the last two pencil marks to determine whether they are the same height from the ground. Affix the proper wrought iron number to each mark with screws and your screwdriver.

3. Measure vertically one foot up from the center pencil mark and make another mark with your pencil. Repeat this step one foot down from the center mark as well. Install the correct wrought iron numbers to each mark, placing the 12 at the top and the 6 at the bottom. Measure the rest of the marks one foot from the center point and place marks for each number. Affix the remaining wrought iron numbers.

4. Read the instructions on the clock kit and use your screwdriver and the screws that came with the kit to install the hands and motor directly on top of the pencil mark on your wall. Step back and look at your clock from afar. Make sure that it looks straight and even, and use your level to make any adjustments as necessary.

Tags: wrought iron, foot from, giant wall clock, from center, giant wall, iron numbers, pencil mark

Choose Lighting To Complement Your Home'S Decorating Style

The array of light fixtures and lamps is staggering. Many times, you're able to get the exact look for your decorating style. Here are some ideas. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Select a traditional-style chandelier - simple or grand, depending on your other furnishings - in an English country style room. Brass and copper lanterns and lead-crystal fixtures also work for ceiling fixtures, sconces and lamps.

2. Go with a chandelier, perhaps one with flowers or prisms, or a pressed-glass fixture for a Victorian room. Other options include crystal and frosted-glass fixtures; in lamps, a ginger jar or painted china lamp is suitable.

3. Use a ceiling fixture that suggests age in an Old World-style room. This might be an antique brass or copper, bronze, verdigris, or rust-finish metal chandelier; for lamps, the same metals or stone (perhaps a marble urn-shaped lamp) work beautifully.

4. Think simple in minimalist interiors. Recessed ceiling fixtures and track lights work well; go with very plain lamps such as wood or ceramic cylinders or cubes.

5. Put obviously manmade fixtures - the more utilitarian-looking the better - in high-tech environments. Recessed can lights work well for the ceilings, as do track and cable-style fixtures; for lamps, adjustable halogens - often you see these in black-painted steel - work well.

6. Buy a simple glass fixture (frosted or pressed-glass ones are nice) or a plain chandelier for cottage, American country and garden-style rooms. In lamps, ginger jar, candlestick or rustic terracotta-base models work well.

7. Let a Tiffany-style or a mica-type shade cast a subtle glow in arts and crafts interiors. Mission decor (part of the arts and crafts movement) includes fixtures of geometric wood or metal strips around frosted and colored glass.

8. Find a wrought-iron chandelier for Mexican country style rooms or in eclectic-ethnic interiors. Use lamps of wrought iron, lively painted pottery or plain terracotta; a worn or battered wooden artifact can be converted into a conversation-piece lamp, too.

Tags: work well, fixtures lamps, arts crafts, ceiling fixtures, country style, lamps ginger

Tuscan Lighting Ideas

Tuscan decor shares the same color scheme as the sun-burnt exterior of old Tuscan buildings.

Tuscan d cor is a style of rustic Italian interior decorating. Tuscan lighting is typically defined by bronze structures with off-white or tan lightshades, creating a glow that warms the room. Tuscan lighting can be incorporated into any home to bring a touch of warm Italian d cor to an area. The style is passive and will typically flow with most designs. Having an idea of what style of Tuscan lighting you would like for your home will help when it is time to purchase your Tuscan lighting accents. Does this Spark an idea?

Hanging Lights

Hanging lights or chandeliers are a common Tuscan lighting choice. These lights are best used in the center of large rooms or hung over an area such as a dining room table. A Tuscan hanging light is usually composed of a large bronze frame that holds three to 10 lights with small, sunburnt orange lamp shades diffusing the light's glow. A hanging Tuscan light can also be designed with artificial candles in lieu of light bulbs to bring a stylized rustic design into the room.

Ceiling Lights

Tuscan ceiling lights are often created by simply replacing the current lighting cover with an earthy-tan Tuscan-style lighting cover. This will instantly transform a ceiling light into a warm Tuscan d cor accent. Tuscan lighting covers are typically made from glass and available in all sizes to fit any existing ceiling light. The lighting cover might have bronze accents around the edges, in the center or even composing the parts of the cover that holds it to the lighting fixture.

Wall Sconces

Tuscan wall sconces are commonly used to add Tuscan d cor accents to an entire home because, typically, they are easy to install and relatively inexpensive. Wall sconces are used to light the walls of a home and bring warmth to otherwise ignored corners and nooks. A Tuscan-style wall sconce is typically made of a flowing bronze structure that attaches to the wall with a earthy sunburnt orange paper or glass lightshade.

Tags: Tuscan lighting, lighting cover, ceiling light, home bring, sunburnt orange, that holds

Make A Home Wine Rack

Your wine rack will use dowels similar to those used in this plate rack.

A homemade wine rack is something you can use for years. And it's perfect as a gift for all your friends and family too. This dowel rack with three levels is simple enough for the most novice woodworker or even children to build because it involves only simple tools and easy cuts. The rack is easily portable and is constructed to hold twelve bottles, but you could also scale it back to a nine or six bottle rack if you need it to fit in a smaller space. The finished rack measures 9 ¼ inches tall without bottles on the top shelf--the finished rack will remind you of a tinkertoy structure only much sturdier. Add this to my Recipe Box.

Instructions

Cut and Sand the Dowels

1. Cut the 3/8 inch dowels into 20 pieces that are each 3 5/8 inches long for the vertical posts.

2. Cut the 3/8 inch dowel into six pieces that are each six inches long for the back and front horizontal posts.

3. Cut the 1 ¼ dowel in 15 pieces that are each 11 inches long.

4. Sand all pieces lightly.

Make the Horizontal Levels

5. Drill side holes 3/4 inches from both the front and back ends of the 11-inch dowels. Drill half way through two of the dowels (which will be at the end of the wine rack with no holes showing) and all the way through the other three dowels (which will be the inner dowels).

6. Insert two 16 inch dowels through all the holes to make the front and back rows of the rack. Work glue into the holes while inserting the dowels.

7. Repeat the process for the middle and top horizontal levels.

8. Insure that each horizontal unit is identical in size and shape. If not, pull dowels in or out slightly to adjust.

Make the Vertical Levels

9. Drill 3/4 inch holes on the top of the large dowels in the first level on both the near and far ends of the dowel. These will be the holes for the verticle dowels. Place the holes 3/4 inch in from the end, directly above the horizontal dowel.

10. Repeat the process for the middle level, but drill holes on both the bottom and top of the dowel since you will have vertical pieces going both up and down from this level.

11. Repeat the process for the top level. Drill holes on only the bottom of the third level so that the dowel on top does not have any holes showing.

Assemble the Rack

12. Insert 10 vertical dowels into the bottom level using glue in all joints.

13. Press the middle level on top of the first level, also using glue for all joints. Wipe excess glue with a rag.

14. Check for right angles in the first two levels and make adjustments as necessary.

15. Let the glue dry for a few hours.

16. Insert the remaining vertical dowels into the top of the middle level, glue and insert the top level. Wipe excess glue. Check again for right angles.

17.Let the structure dry again for a few hours or overnight

18. Apply Danish oil for a natural finish or apply shellac or wood stain as desired.

Tags: that each, dowels into, each inches, each inches long, inches long

Put On Violent J'S Face Paint

Violent J Makeup Template Filled In

The emergence of rap icons Insane Clown Posse (ICP) had a profound effect on not only who listened to rap, but what rap actually was. For years now people have been emulating the rap duo from Detroit. Known as Violent J and Shaggy 2 Dope, the duo has been rapping since the release of their debut album "Carnival of Carnage" in 1992 as Insane Clown Posse and were known as Inner City Posse prior to that, according to Wikipedia. The group has such a following it is still common to see people with their makeup at Halloween or at their concerts. And it isn't that difficult to put on face paint like Violent J or Shaggy 2 Dope.

Instructions

1. Draw the outline of the eyebrows using the eyeshadow brush and black grease paint. They should start at the inner corners of your existing eyebrows and go up and out and arch almost to your hairline, circling around to end at the same point. See the Violent J makeup template for an example of what they should look like.

2. Fill in the outlined eyebrows using using your paintbrush and black grease paint. Keep a crisp edge to the black.

3. Draw the outline of a crescent shape using the eyeshadow brush and black grease paint. It should start just below the nose, with the points of the crescent ending roughly at the tops of the ears. The base of the crescent should be just below your bottom lip, and the curve should point to the chin. See the Violent J template for an example of what the crescent shape should look like.

4. Outline a small half-circle that meets the center, bottom of the crescent so it extends into your chin. See the template for an example.

5. Fill in both the crescent and half-circle with black grease paint using your paint brush. Keep crisp lines on the edges. The two shapes should now be one that makes up Violent J's smile.

6. Outline four small rectangles, one above and below each eye, using the eyeshadow brush and black grease paint. Each rectangle should be about an inch long by half an inch wide and point outward from the center of the eye. See the Violent J template for reference.

7. Fill in the rectangles above and below each of your eyes using your paintbrush and black grease paint. Your makeup should now look like the filled-in version of the Violent J template.

8. Fill the rest of your face in using white grease paint and your makeup sponges. Keep your edges crisp and clean so the makeup doesn't look like it is melting.

9. Wash all brushes and sponges in warm water and soap.

Tags: grease paint, black grease, black grease paint, look like, brush black

Types Of Animal Fencing

Horses are still often contained inside traditional wooden post fences.

Although the poet Robert Frost wrote that good fences make good neighbors, he failed to mention that fences are also very useful when trying to keep animals contained to a specific area. The size and type of animal in question will determine the kind of fence that would be most useful and safe. Does this Spark an idea?

Electric

Invisible electric fences keep dogs contained to an area by transmitting an electrical shock through a special collar.

Electric fencing is used often to keep household dogs from straying into the neighborhood. It is installed underground, rendering it invisible. The dog's owner must place a special collar on the pet so that when it nears the edge of the property it receives a slight electrical shock that is not harmful. This type of fencing is generally the most expensive and comes with its share of controversy. For example, the Dog Owner's Guide website points out that, while it keeps the household dog inside the yard, it does not keep people and other dogs out of the yard, "leaving small dogs vulnerable to attacks by larger ones and exposing all dogs to potential teasing."

Wooden

Wooden fences keep horses safe on the farm and dogs safe in their backyard.

Traditional wooden fences are appropriate for containing horses to farms and pastures and are built of horizontal wood posts spaced about eight feet apart and connected by wooden planks. They can also be used to keep a domestic dog inside its property while simultaneously adding a bit of nostalgia to the home in terms of the white picket fence cliche. According to the AB Custom Fencing website, wooden fences are also a good choice for pens or corrals for other types of livestock, including pigs. Several different forms of wood can be used and a multitude of design patterns can be crafted based on aesthetic preference, budget and animal.

Wire

Barbed wire fences are often used to keep cattle safe on the farm.

Barbed, woven or smooth wire fencing is frequently used in pastures for containing cattle and horses. Although barbed wire can be dangerous because of the sharp barbs that surround the wires, the Curators of the University of Missouri website says it is often used to prevent large animals from leaning over and breaking down the fence and to prevent smaller animals from digging under the fence. Barbed wire is one of the least expensive fencing materials and is sold in rolls in various patterns and sizes. Woven wire fencing is also frequently used for containing cattle but, according to the Penrod Lumber & Fence Company website, it can also be used in conjunction with board fencing to create a barrier for large domestic pets. The woven wires can be customized to create openings of various shape and size to run across the entire fence. Smooth wire fences are designed to be very sturdy because the wire is pulled so taut that it can resist high amounts of tension. Although animals can still rub up against this type of fencing, the wire is usually too strong for them to break through.

Tags: also used, animals from, containing cattle, electrical shock, fences also, fences keep, frequently used

Update A Red Brick Fireplace

Update a red brick fireplace with your choice of materials.

Fireplaces made of red brick are common in older traditional homes. The fireplaces are often paired with oak mantels and raised hearths. If you have a similar fireplace in your home but your taste has changed or never was traditional, it's time to bring your fireplace in line with your decorating style. Updating your red brick fireplace may not mean making it look contemporary, but simply making it more in line with your taste. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Study magazines and books on d cor styles. Make note of the fireplaces that catch your eye. Use these pictures as a starting point for giving your red brick fireplace a face-lift.

2. Paint the brick. Brighten things up with a coat of white. Or think about the other colors in your room and choose a hue that complements them, or paint the fireplace a color that contrasts with the other colors to make the fireplace pop. Buy a product that is specially formulated to cover brick.

3. Resurface the fireplace. Install field stone or river rock over the brick for a rustic look. Cover the brick with glass tiles or granite for a contemporary feel. Stucco over the brick for a Mediterranean flair.

4. Remove the mantel. Put up a weathered barn beam for a rustic or country look. Leave off the mantel for a clean, more contemporary vibe. Install an unembellished, polished wood surround that widens at the top to serve as the mantel. Top the fireplace with a shelf of concrete or plaster.

5. Modify the hearth. Remove a raised hearth in favor of one that is level with the floor. Make it marble, concrete or slate to blend with modern furnishings. Choose fieldstone to complement a Tuscan-influenced room.

6. Buy new fireplace tools and accessories. Change out the old mesh screen for a streamlined glass door. Replace the traditional brass-handled tool set with sleek wrought-iron pieces. Substitute the old andirons with Chinese-inspired ones shaped like graceful dragons. Instead of a real fire, set the stage with an arrangement of pillar candles or a large basket filled with dried grasses and baby's breath or white and blue hydrangeas. Breathe new life into a red brick fireplace by highlighting the mantel with small herbal topiaries like those made from rosemary, rather than the expected candles and family photos.

Tags: with your, brick fireplace, brick fireplace, fireplace with, line with, line with your

Renaissance Style Lighting

Candelabras were popular during the Renaissance.

Lighting during the Renaissance, which lasted from the 13th to 17th centuries, relied on candles. Electricity was not yet discovered, so light sources were primitive. Some fixtures relied on Castor oil, but most simply used candles. The light fixtures were often detailed and ornate, resembling pieces of art more than basic candle holders. The Renaissance was characterized by artistic movements and a focus on beauty, and light fixtures were no exception, particularly for the wealthy. Does this Spark an idea?

Candles

Candles were the heart of all light fixtures throughout the Renaissance period. Light fixtures did not yet use electricity, so even the most elaborate chandeliers were lit with candles. Different types of fixtures were created to hold candlesticks. Some were basic while others were decorative.

Materials

Light fixtures during the Renaissance era were shiny and metallic. Most fixtures were made with brass, copper, bronze or silver, which were polished to create a high shine. Cast iron and wrought iron were also used. Some simple fixtures were made of glass, and glass was sometimes used as a decorative cover on oil lamps. Some expensive fixtures were gilded, meaning they featured a fine gold leaf or powder layer over the metal. Gilt-silver and gilt-bronze gave the fixtures attractive, shiny exteriors.

Motifs

Human and animal motifs were frequently seen on Renaissance light fixtures, particularly handheld candle holders that displayed human figures, ranging from a woman holding a tree branch to an armored man. Animal figures, such as a bird or horse, were also popular. Sometimes human and animal figures were combined on the same fixture, such as a man or woman riding on a lion's back.

Candlesticks

Candlesticks were used to carry lights from room to room. They featured a flat wax pan, baluster socket and circular thumb piece. Candlesticks held a single candle. Scrolled handles with conical extinguishers became popular during the latter part of the Renaissance period.

Candelabras

Candelabras were also known as branch candlesticks. They consisted of branches with cylindrical bezels, which fit into the socket of a supporting stick. The branches could be removed, allowing the candlestick to be used alone.

Wall-Mounted Lighting

Some fixtures mounted onto walls and were used to light stairwells and rooms. They consisted of a backplate that attached to the wall and a holder for a candlestick. The holder contained a small plate to catch melted wax drippings. Some models were quite basic and built merely to hold a candle, while others were ornate and not only held the candle, but acted as a piece of d cor.

Standing Lights

Oil lamps were often set on tables. Some were attached to tall poles, creating floor lamps. The oil lamps consisted of a vessel holding oil--such as Castor oil--and a wick. The vessel was either simple, such as a basic bowl shape, or elaborate, such as a painted Aladdin's lamp. They were made from glass, metal, ceramic or stone, with more elaborate vessels being artistically painted.

Chandeliers

Chandeliers ranged from primitive to extravagant. They contained three or more curving arms that held candlesticks. The candlestick holders included small bowls to catch the dripping wax. Basic chandeliers did not consist of decorative accents. Extravagant chandeliers featured decorative beads or teardrop pendants as accessories.

Tags: fixtures were, during Renaissance, light fixtures, were also, were made

Walk A Runway Like Miss J Alexander

Miss J. Alexander

If you don't know him, you should. Miss J. Alexander, known simply as "Miss J." is the lady-in-waiting for Tyra Banks, the host of "America's Next Top Model." When Miss J. isn't busy supporting Tyra's ego, he is the sassy and fierce runway coach for the wannabe supermodels on the show. Before his stint with Tyra, Miss J. coached Naomi Campbell, Kimora Lee and other big names in fashion.

Instructions

Rocking the Runway

1. Examine the runway on which you are about to walk. You do not want to imitate Jael's disastrous prolonged fall on "America's Next Top Model." Check for cracks, crevices, bumps, inclines and declines. Walk the route and look closely at the spot where you will make your turn.

2. Choose your shoes. Miss J. loved Elyse's look in Cycle 1 of ANTM, but chided her for not wearing heels. In the beginning, hit the sweet spot between comfort and style. Aim for a 2-inch heel, and make sure it's not the first time you have worn the shoes. The soles on new shoes are slippery, though you can scuff them up or put a little tape on the bottom.

3. Show attitude and exude inner strength. Miss J. advises, "When I look at a girl, I'm looking at her for body, for movement. She can be as ugly as the bottom of my shoe, but if she can walk, and have confidence, and look good, that's all that matters for this. You can turn that ugly into beauty." Keep your shoulders back and jut your pelvis forward.

4. Walk with force and energy. Miss J. says, "My motto is, walk like it's for sale and the rent is due tonight." Land on the ball of your foot and keep a straight line. When Miss J. watched the models in a runway challenge, he consistently reminded them, "When you walk, take the center."

5. Avoid looking down. The temptation is to check your path, but supermodels must maintain their forward-facing gaze. Take a tip from spinning ballerinas and focus on a single point. Just make sure that your focal point is not the crowd. Your body should lead and your head should follow.

Tags: Miss Alexander, America Next, America Next Model, make sure, Next Model

Make A Drag From Chain Link Fence

Scrap pieces of chain link fence make a good drag mat.

Dragging loose soil with a mat levels the ground and covers fresh seed. Drag mats can be constructed from many scrap pieces of material. The most popular material is a section of chain-link fence. The drag mat is either pulled by hand or attached to a piece of machinery such as a garden tractor. With repeated drags, the chain link fence will level loose soil and help in collecting rocks and other errant vegetative materials. Storing the completed drag is easy because the chain link fencing will fold up onto itself and take up little space. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Lay the section of chain link fence, 4 feet wide by 6 feet long, on the ground. The overall length can be longer, but a 6-foot long piece is relatively easy to pull by hand.

2. Cut a piece of 3/8-inch rope to approximately 6 feet long.

3. Tie one end of the rope to the left side of the 4-foot width of the chain link fence. Tie the other end of the rope to the right side. Pull on the center of the rope. You should have a "V" shape.

4. Attach the remaining 9 feet of rope to the center of the "V" shape from Step 3. You can tie a loop at the end of the rope to use as a grip for your hands or to attach to a piece of machinery.

Tags: chain link, link fence, chain link fence, feet long, loose soil, piece machinery

Homemade Outdoor Lamp Posts

Build homemade lamp posts to reflect your style.

Home improvement stores and lamp post designers don't always offer a wide variety of lamp post choices. Imaginative homeowners may want to try their hand at creating a lamp post that reflects their personal style. A little basic wiring and a wide choice of pole and lamp materials make this possible. The first thing that springs to mind when you think of a lamp post may be Victorian-style wrought iron, but a homemade lamp post can be of any style -- modern, Americana or tropical are just a few choices. Does this Spark an idea?

Post

Homemade lamp posts can be made of brand new materials or recycled treasures. The town dump or junkyard can offer good choices for a one-of-a-kind lamp post. Look for anything that catches your eye to weigh its possibilities. Consider its condition and size. It might look great but be too flimsy to stand season after season in your yard. Plan your post before you invest in new materials or pricey reclaimed objects.

Conversion

Whatever your lamp post is made from, you will need to suit it to its new purpose. When you start with a metal pipe, your task may be as simple as cutting it to size and running the wiring up through it. If you are using a wooden post, such as an old beam or porch post, you will need to run conduit on the outside of the post to reach the lamp you will place on the top. Any post will need to be set in concrete beneath the ground.

Wiring

Electricity needs to reach any lamp post. When you create your own, you have to assemble not only the lamp and post, but also the conduit to the post. The conduit runs under the frost level and is protected by concrete or stone. The wiring runs through the conduit and up to the lamp atop the post. Installing your post means digging a trench for the conduit and safely running electricity through it to the lamp.

Lamp

The lamp you place on top your post must work with it both practically and aesthetically. You may wish to buy simple lamp components and wire your own lamp to the set-up. Another option is to purchase a lamp from a home improvement store or lighting store and mount it on the pole you have designed. If you choose to purchase a lamp, make sure the electrical components you wire through the homemade post match the lamp components.

Tags: lamp post, will need, your post, components wire, homemade lamp, lamp components

Ideas For Longaberger Product Uses

The Longaberger Company specializes in decorative baskets.

Longaberger, a U.S. craft company, specializes in baskets, home accents, pottery, wrought iron pieces and Sisters brand quilted bags and accessories. The company began as Longaberger Baskets in Dresden, Ohio, in 1896. Dresden remains the headquarters of the Longaberger Company. Its home office building was constructed in the shape of one of its baskets and is today hailed as being the world's largest basket. Does this Spark an idea?

Desktop Compartments

The Longaberger Company offers woven containers for use on desks and in office settings. Some of these specialty containers have compartments for holding pens, paper and other supplies. Create a theme for your workspace and choose a specialty basket to suit your design tastes. You can alternatively use a non-specialized Longaberger basket or container that better matches your theme to hold your supplies.

Kitchen Containers

Longaberger offers basket-woven trays, bowls and smaller containesr. Use a few of these containers in your kitchen to hold and store foods that do not need to be refrigerated. Potatoes, garlic, apples, oranges, bananas and similar fruits and vegetables can be placed in these containers to add to the decor of your kitchen. Select containers that fit your tastes.

Bathroom Arrangements

Use Longaberger containers in your bathroom to hold soaps, towels, wash cloths and other toiletries. You can choose basket colors that coordinate with your bathroom's color scheme or the colors of your towels. Setting up an arrangement using Longaberger containers in a guest bathroom adds a special welcoming touch. Use multiple baskets or containers to create decorative displays out of ordinary bathroom accessories.

Centerpieces and Decorative Arrangements

The Longaberger Company creates several artful baskets, containers and home accessories. Create centerpieces for your main table or decorative arrangements for shelves and side tables. You can place a basket on a place mat or table runner. Fill the container with silk flowers, collectibles, seasonal items or any other objects that suit your design needs. Place other objects around the outside of the container for a pleasant overflowing effect.

Tags: Longaberger Company, Arrangements Longaberger, baskets containers, containers your, Longaberger containers, other objects, suit your

Information On Metal Bunk Beds

Metal bunk beds are made with materials such as steel tubing, metal rods and wrought iron. These materials help give the bed a more modern appearance. Bunk beds made of metal are very durable, making them a desired choice among beds. Does this Spark an idea?

Size

The standard size of metal bunk bed is a twin-size bed on top of another twin. Some bunk beds have a full-size bed on the bottom with a twin on top. You also can find metal futon bunk beds that can also be used as a sofa on the bottom.

Design

You can find metal bunk beds in designs such as traditional or rounded post and with curved rails.

Storage

If you need a bed with extra storage, metal bunk beds are available with drawers, shelving and other forms of storage space.

Durability

Metal bunk beds are considered to be very durable. They are known not to easily chip or scratch because of their protective powder finish. They are lightweight and can be moved easily.

Safety

Metal bunk beds should be constructed with ladders and guard rails to prevent accidents. The bed should be sturdily made, set up properly and come with extra safety information from the manufacturer.

Considerations

If you are thinking about purchasing a new bed, you may want to consider metal bunk beds that come with storage built in as a bonus.

Tags: bunk beds, bunk beds, beds made, beds that, bunk beds, bunk beds that

Making A Basic Forge

Making your own portable forge can be an interesting first project for a beginning blacksmith. Some blacksmiths build their forges from old car or truck wheels, or use a heavy duty metal bucket as a base. This simple blacksmith's forge uses a 24-inch charcoal grill as the body and can help you understand the basic principles of building a forge so that you can go on to design your own from other materials.

Instructions

Making the Tuyere

1. Screw an end cap on the end of each 6-inch piece of pipe.

2. Drill holes in the 6-inch pieces of pipe using a hand press or a drill with a 1/4-inch drill bit. The holes should be in rows 1/2 inch apart, with each row offset by half an inch, as in Figure 1. The holes should not go all the way around the pipe, since you only want the air to flow upward through the flames.

3. Measure and mark a line 3/4 inch inward from threading on one side of the T connector. Drill three holes 1/2 inch apart along that line. Repeat on other side.

4. Screw the 6-inch pipes into the two sides of the T connector, making sure that all of the holes are facing upward.

5. Screw the 8-inch piece of pipe into the stem of the T connector.

Building the Body for a Basic Forge

6. Assemble the charcoal grill. You'll only need to attach the grill pan to the tripod since you won't be using the rack or the rack holder.

7. Drill a 1-inch hole in the center of the bottom of the grill pan for the 1-inch pipe to fit through.

8. Spread a layer of ashes or sand in the bottom of the grill to create a firm, level surface.

9. Arrange six fire bricks in the bottom of the grill, leaving the bottom opening uncovered.

10. Place the tuyere in the grill, with the 8-inch piece extending down through the hole and the arms resting on the fire bricks.

11. Screw one arm of the elbow connector to the threading on the bottom of the 8-inch pipe. Attach the 18-inch piece of pipe to the other arm of the elbow connector.

12. Attach one end of the shop vac hose to the exhaust on the shop vac. Attach the other end to the end of the 18-inch pipe.

13. Use the remaining fire bricks to form walls for a fire box for your forge.

Tags: bottom grill, fire bricks, piece pipe, 8-inch piece, Basic Forge, charcoal grill

Kinds Of Window Grills

The various kinds of window grilss all have two purposes

Whereas there are many kinds of windows, such is not the case with window grills. Window grills do, however, come in several different patterns and styles. The purposes of the window grill are twofold. In many cities window grills are required to prevent tragic accidental falls of people, particularly young children. The optional purpose of window grills is security against burglary and vandalism. The properly installed window grill meets both demands equally well. Does this Spark an idea?

Hinged Window Grills

The hinged window grill consists of a metal frame mounted onto the exterior of the window. This kind of window grill is particularly versatile in that it permits the window to be used as an exit if an emergency arises. Look for metal findings that face the interior of the window. Use a heavy weight padlock at the window grill. Slide the lock through the open nipple on the metal frame and its mate on the grill frame work. Provide added security by purchasing a padlock with an extra long arm. Select hinged window grills outfitted with a male female block system through which the padlock arm is passed. Provide balanced weight distribution on hinges. Custom order a left and right panel of grill work with a center nipple system for the lock.

Immobile Window Grills

An immobile window grill provides greater security, but disallows the possibility of exist through the window in times of emergency. Look for a metal frame set into cement or concrete at the exterior frame of the window. Inspect the findings used to attach the metal frame to the concrete. Oversized bolts embedded into the concrete insure that the frame and the grill are both immobile. Inspect the welding joining the grill work to the frame. Loose spots of welded beadwork may compromise the security of the premises. Check for deteriorated rusted findings on iron grill work.

Accordion Window Grills

Accordion window grills are installed on runners inset into concrete or cement at the window's exterior frame. This kind of window grill slides back and forth on those runners and is not hinged. Its name is derived from the sliding action similar to that of an accordion. Pay special attention to the sliding action of this kind of window grill. Avoid slight and severe injury by keeping hands and fingers entirely free of the many points of action on the face of the grill as it slides open.

Period Window Grills

Buildings which have an historical landmark status have many regulations which govern the exterior appearance of the building during and after the renovation process. Cities such as Manhattan that require window grills above the ground floor have a multitude of buildings with the historical landmark status. Avoid added expense and project disappointment. Hire a professional interior design consultant or architect who is well versed in the requirements of period grill work when the two criteria overlap.

Tags: window grill, grill work, metal frame, kind window, kind window grill, exterior frame

Tricks For Using An Airless Paint Sprayer

An airless paint sprayer is a useful invention that allows the user to spray complex surfaces such as wrought iron fences or shutters, or even to paint an entire house in one day. However, airless sprayers can also be balky machines to use -- clogging up, leaking and spitting paint. Following some tricks to using one can prevent most on-the-job problems.

Conditioning the Paint

Prevent tiny particles of dried paint or dirt from clogging the spray tip or filters by straining it before use. New paint from a freshly-opened can may still contain dried paint particles and tiny pieces of grit; unnoticeable if you're rolling or brushing but capable of clogging the spray tip and prematurely wearing down inner components. Most paint stores sell mesh paint strainers; an old pair of nylons works well, too. Strain the paint from the original container into a clean bucket.

Read the paint label instructions. Some paint should be thinned with water or solvent for spraying; usually with about one pint per gallon of paint. However, other paints should not be thinned and are formulated to be applied undiluted with an airless sprayer.

Keep It Clean

Many sprayer problems can be prevented by straining the paint and cleaning the machine meticulously after every use. When you're done painting, remove the spray tip and run clean water through the sprayer until it comes out perfectly clear. Follow this with some mineral spirits -- storing a sprayer with mineral spirits in the machine keeps it lubricated and rust-free.

When painting outside or in a dusty environment, drape a sheet of clean plastic over the paint sprayer and bucket to keep contaminants from dropping in the paint.

Use the Correct Tip

Spray tips are designed to very tight tolerances, and you'll need different apertures for thin stain or thicker paint. Using an incorrect or worn tip will produce runs, drips and an uneven spray pattern. Additionally, the spray width varies -- choose a tip with a 4- to 8-inch spray fan for intricate surfaces such as shutters or cabinets, and use a wider spray width for ceilings, your home's exterior and other large areas.

Spraying Technique

Successful spraying depends on good "gun control" and having the right pressure setting. Experiment with the pressure -- usually adjusted by a knob on top of the sprayer -- until you have an even spray fan and can comfortably spray with the gun between 12 and 18 inches from the surface.

Keep your wrist stiff and the gun perpendicular to the surface as you work. Apply the paint in smooth, even strokes, with each stroke overlapping the previous one by about one third. If you've never used an airless paint sprayer before, practice on some scrap lumber or drywall to get a feel for it.

Safety

The paint comes out of the spray tip with a lot of force, capable of injecting paint deep into skin and tissues. If this happens, it's a medical emergency. Never point the spray gun at any part of your body, or at anyone else. Spray guns have thumb-operated trigger locks. Treat the spray gun as if were a real gun and engage the lock whenever you're not actually painting.

Tags: paint sprayer, airless paint sprayer, clogging spray, dried paint, mineral spirits

Install A Basement Support Post

A basement post is usually installed to counteract a sagging frame in a wood-frame house. Typically the posts are eight-foot adjustable devices that can be placed under a sagging beam or floor joist. They are made from metal and have an adjustable screw top that can be raised to fit the space between the floor and ceiling of the basement. These adjustable posts can be used to shore up a sagging floor or even raise the floor if need be. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Measure the height of your opening to make sure an eight-foot adjustable metal post is just what you need. If so, then go ahead and purchase as many posts as you need. They should be locally available in most hardware stores.

2. Set the post on a wooden block in the exact location where you want the post to be. For example, let’s say you have a wooden beam that runs the length of your basement. It is cracked, but not sagging, so you want to place the post under the crack. Make a square shaped wooden block from a 2 X 12 inch or 2 X 10 inch piece of lumber and set it underneath the crack. Then, place the post on top of the block and turn the adjustable top until it starts to move upwards.

3. Cut a wooden block to go between the top of the post and the beam or floor joists, for which it is supporting. You can take a 2 X 6 or a 2 X 8 and use that piece of wood for the block after you make a square-shaped cut. You might want to double up on the wood, which means you will have to cut two square blocks and then place one on top of the other.

4. Raise the level of the floor. If you turn the lever that attaches to the post in a clockwise manner, you will slowly raise the level of the floor above you. Never raise the floor more than ¼-inch per day and you may have to build an additional makeshift beam to spread the force of several jacks across the span of many floor joists. A 4 X 4 or a 6 X 6 makes a good temporary beam, or you can nail together several 2 X 6’s to get the same effect. Overtime floor joists may sag because of wear and tear or poor design, so you could insert several metal posts underneath an eight-foot temporary beam that spans seven floor joists placed 16” apart on center. To accomplish this you would probably need three posts placed equal distances apart underneath the beam. Raise each one a little bit at a time till you get your desired lift. Don’t forget to go only a ¼ inch at a time.

5. (optional)Build a cement pier underneath the place that you will place your jack. This is only necessary, if your cellar has a dirt floor or the concrete slab is in disrepair. Most modern homes have poured slab floors that are 4 to 6 inches thick and can support some lifting. If your structure requires anything more than this, then it is best to consult a professional.

Tags: floor joists, wooden block, beam floor, beam that, eight-foot adjustable

Replace A Chair Seat

Dining room chair.

Many of the most popular styles of kitchen and dining room chairs have upholstered seats that are affixed to the chair frame by small screws through the bottom of the seat and frame. Because of time and sometimes rough handling, the seat may split or become broken. Sometimes the mounting areas of the wood will fail due to loose screws moving back and forth when the chair is sat on frequently. Replacing these chair seats is not difficult. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Remove the existing seat and trace the outline of the seat onto the Kraft paper. If the seat is missing, then simply place the Kraft paper on the chair where the seat should fit and mark the shape onto the paper.

2. Cut the shape of the seat out of the paper and test fit it on the chair. Trim the template as necessary. Do the fitting with the paper, since it is more difficult to trim the plywood. When the paper fits the seat well, trim the pattern by 1/8th inch all around. This allows for fabric. Then place the paper template onto the plywood.

3. Trace the template onto the plywood with a pencil. Using a jigsaw, cut along the pencil mark.

4. Fit the new seat to the chair. It should fit comfortably.

5. Place the wood seat on a fresh piece of Kraft paper in a well-ventilated area. Shake the spray glue well and spray the wood.

6. Apply the foam to the glue and press firmly. Allow the glue to dry (based on the manufacturer's recommendation).

7. Turn the seat and foam over and use the electric knife to cut the foam to the shape of the wood. Place the seat on the edge of a table with the foam on the bottom. Use the wood of the seat as a guide and turn the seat while cutting.

8. Lay the fabric upside down and center the seat on the fabric. The seat should be foam side down.

9. Wrap the fabric over the front side, all the way around the foam to the plywood (now the seat bottom). Staple away from the plywood edge at least two inches, starting in the center. Wrap the fabric over the back side the same way, pull it snug, and staple it in the center.

10. Work toward the corners, balancing the staples from front to back so that the fabric is pulled snug evenly. Then do the same thing on the sides, easing the corners last. Easing means to add small amounts of excess fabric between each staple so that the fabric doesn't bunch up at the corners. Trim away excess fabric. Tap down any protruding staples with the hammer.

11. Install the seat by inverting the chair and screwing the screws into the plywood through the mounting holes in the chair.

Tags: Kraft paper, Wrap fabric over, excess fabric, fabric over, onto plywood

Use An Antique Cobbler Toilet Paper Stand

Cobbler paper holders are easy to change.

Antique cobbler stands are two-piece iron shoemaking tools that are easily converted into high-quality bathroom toilet paper stands. Artisans spray paint the old iron stands with rustproof enamels that match popular interior decorating themes. Wire toilet paper holders hang down from the shoe-last tool that is located at the top of the cobbler stand. Two large craft beads are provided on the wire for use inside of the toilet paper rolls. When the craft beads are positioned correctly, the toilet paper rolls unwind smoothly. It is easy to change toilet paper rolls on the antique cobbler toilet paper stands. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Unhook both sides of the wire paper holder from the shoe-last tool at the top of the cobbler stand.

2. Remove the craft beads from the wire paper holder.

3. Slide the new roll of toilet paper onto the wire holder. Position the toilet paper at the middle of the wire holder.

4. Slide the first craft bead back onto the wire holder. Push this bead firmly into the end of the toilet paper roll until it does not show.

5. Slide the second craft bead onto the bead-less side of the wire toilet paper holder. Push this bead firmly into the empty side of the toilet paper roll until it does not show.

6. Hook the wire holder back onto the shoe-last tool at the top of the cobbler toilet paper stand.

7. Replace the next empty toilet paper roll after ripping or cutting the used paper tube away from the tight fitting craft beads.

Tags: toilet paper, craft beads, toilet paper, wire holder, paper holder, paper roll