The green light keeps blinking. Resetting does not help. Any suggestions? George33351, Welcome to the DIY Forums. Need a bit more info on this heater. Model # would help. Not familiar with the green light thing. Thanks. Originally Posted by George33351 The green light keeps blinking. Resetting does not help. Any suggestions? Assuming it's the electronic Smart one and it was working previously, if it's blinking quietly and you have no hot water, then the controller thinks there's no water in the tank, which could be a sensor defect. If it's making some hot water, and the blinks go with clicks (sounds like a turn signal), then you probably have a bad controller board -- which is easy to swap out. Get out your manual and write down all the information from the water heater (Serial #, model #, date installed, etc...) And then call Whirlpool at the number on the manual. They'll tell you what to do, and supply a replacement part if necessary (most likely under warranty).
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I was just wondering what the best chemicals are to use in my hot tub. I'm using Baqua Spa right now and it works ok I'm just wondering if I should be using something else. That was the system the previous homeowner was using so I just continued using it. Just figured I would see if there is a better way.Thanks I started with chorine. Then I used the Baqua system for a couple years. Now I use Nature2 and ozone. The Nature2 cartridge lasts 3 months and sits inside on of my filters and slowly releases silver ions to sanitize the water. The ozone is also working 24/7 to sanitize. The only thing I do with the spa is shock it once a week. Very low maintenance. Just remember to drain and refill any spa only body of water , no matter what Chemical is used. It is very important to refresh the entire body of water depending on use. smaller bodies are harder to keep balenced. Just like in Nature. A pond can be self cleaning but a puddle scums up quickly Note: alot of people complain of getting rash's and such because they keep filling water that evaporates and just adding chemicals. I have been told by Homeowners that their water is crystal clear, but dont understand why their heater element failed or have pin hole leaks. After taking a water sample to the closest store to be checked , found out that you can clean jewlery in it, Seriously!! I have to respond sure its clear but so is acid.. nothing grows in that either. Water evaporates, chemicals and other particals don't! as these build up problems arise that can effect skin and even health. Commercial spa's are to be drained and filled on a daily basis because of this.. heath department demands it! Just food for thought Richard
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The self propel feature just stopped working. I figured that just I needed to replace the cable because it was just hanging there. I’m sure you’ve heard of the bridge to nowhere? Well this appears to be the cable to nowhere. I flipped the mower over to access where the cable connects to the drive axle assembly. Since the cable wasn’t broken, I expected to see some moving parts at the end of the cable that caused the wheels to engage. I haven’t ventured to remove the entire drive axle yet, but the cable connection on this end is locked in solid with no moving parts. I removed the gear cover on the drive axle and pulled on the belt. Both the gears in the drive axle and the wheels moved. For some reason I am unable to engage the belt that turns the gears that turn the wheels. How does this all work and what do I need to do to make it happen? You can see a parts break down at Toro.com. Click on homeowners parts, then type in model serial numbers I have almost the same problem. My cable actually broke, so the self-propelling ain't happening. I went to the Toro website, put in my model and serial numbers and got a hodge-podge of verbiage that almost requires engineering knowledge to decipher. All I want is a part number to replace the propelling cable for my 2006 Toro. It's model 20012, serial 260003443. My fear is that there is NOBODY here in Oxford, MS that I can take my broken cable to so the repair guy can give me a replacement. Working with unknown part numbers causes me acidic stomach. I really need a Toro guy to give me the part number so I can get a replacement somewhere. I'm pretty sure I will have to buy over the Internet. Originally Posted by rgrcpa I have almost the same problem. My cable actually broke, so the self-propelling ain't happening. I went to the Toro website, put in my model and serial numbers and got a hodge-podge of verbiage that almost requires engineering knowledge to decipher. All I want is a part number to replace the propelling cable for my 2006 Toro. It's model 20012, serial 260003443. My fear is that there is NOBODY here in Oxford, MS that I can take my broken cable to so the repair guy can give me a replacement. Working with unknown part numbers causes me acidic stomach. I really need a Toro guy to give me the part number so I can get a replacement somewhere. I'm pretty sure I will have to buy over the Internet. The part number you need is 105-1845 Cable-Traction. Originally Posted by hawkeye58 I flipped the mower over to access where the cable connects to the drive axle assembly. Since the cable wasn’t broken, I expected to see some moving parts at the end of the cable that caused the wheels to engage. How does this all work and what do I need to do to make it happen? The drive cable attaches to an arm on the gearbox. All the cable does is pull up on the gear box and rotate the gearbox to apply tension to the drive belt. When the belt has tension, it turns the drive pulley on the gearbox, which in turn drives the rear wheels. This cable is adjustable, if it's not broken then you may just need to adjust the cable. Originally Posted by 30yearTech The drive cable attaches to an arm on the gearbox. All the cable does is pull up on the gear box and rotate the gearbox to apply tension to the drive belt. When the belt has tension, it turns the drive pulley on the gearbox, which in turn drives the rear wheels. This cable is adjustable, if it's not broken then you may just need to adjust the cable. The self propel works just as you say and I was able to get it to work by just pulling on the cable. I ended up breaking the cable in the process so I’m going to replace it anyway. I’m thinking that it was stretched out to capacity through years of use because there didn’t seem to be much room for adjustment. One thing that I’m still not clear on though is how that cable assembly functions. It seems to me that you have to push the handle forward to engage the self propel which causes the cable to slacken instead of tighten to pull up on the gear box. I’m guessing that this is somehow resolved in the cable adjustment process. Any tips along those lines would be appreciated. Thanks. Can anyone anwer hawkeye on how the cable works ... I agree that it seems backward that you push the handle down and this pulls the transmission tight ... help ... As 30yearTech indicates, one end of the cable connects to the arm on the transmission and pulls it against the drive belt. The other end connects into a plastic traction lever that is keyed to fit in the traction control bar, so that the bar and the lever turn together. The traction control bar fits into the groove in the back of the control handle. The traction lever is installed so that it points away from the control handle and thus in the opposite direction that the control bar points. 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It comes with standard breakers (Cutler-Hammer) that you can pick up at the supply house or home center and works well with a sub panel of your choice. This is the one I used. Amazon.com: Reliance Controls TCA1006D Panel/Link 100-Amp Utility/60-Amp Generator Transfer Switch For Up To 15000-Watt Generators: Patio, Lawn Garden I can post a pic of the setup if you like. Bob the transfer switches have cheap breakers from what I have heard...... No. The transfer PANELS have what are known as supplemental circuit protection circuit breakers. They are acceptable for what they are used for but I agree that they are NOT the same as the circuit breakers in regular panels. What bob_m is advocating, and what I also advocate, is a standard sub-panel fed from the service panel through a three-position switch giving the sub-panel the ability to be powered from the utility (via a circuit breaker in the service panel), be completely off or be powered from an on-site generator. The cost is maybe a little more than the all-in-one transfer panels but the quality is definitely higher. Here is a switch that looks good and for a reasonable price. USA, Universal Changeover Switch|Manual Generator|3PDT Center OFF|Rotary Cam| RV Transfer Swith| Pedestal Power Supply | Boat Panel | Power Source| Utility | Line | Shore| Back-up Power| Solar Energy| Battery Charger| Rectifier | Transfer Switch| the transfer switches have cheap breakers from what I have heard...... Do you have an example? Transfer switches I am familiar with don't have circuit breakers in them unless they are service entrance rated. Check with your POCO and see if you can have this installed. Nothing to change or swap, easiest solution there is if you can swing it. Generlink please do post pics........................................ heres what I dont get... an interlock has a movable metal bracket that some inspectors dont like but a subpanel set up uses the same brackets ,just on a seperate panel,no??? Transfer switches I am familiar with don't have circuit breakers in them unless they are service entrance rated. Joe, he is talking about the (relatively) inexpensive transfer panels made by Reliance (and others) that use pushbutton supplemental circuit protection circuit breakers. The way I read the NEC these circuit breakers are not allowed to be substituted for approved branch circuit circuit breakers but since they are only in the circuit when on generator power it is a bit of a grey area. heres what I dont get... an interlock has a movable metal bracket that some inspectors dont like but a subpanel set up uses the same brackets ,just on a seperate panel,no??? No. Most aftermarket interlocks bolt to the circuit breaker panel's front cover and mechanically prevent both the panel's main circuit breaker and the designated generator circuit breaker from both being closed at the same time. It is easy to defeat this interlock by merely removing the four to six screws holding the cover in place. It is this ease of defeating the interlock that is the problem. Some interlocks supplied by the panel manufacturer permanently install the mechanical interlock in a manner that allows the removal of the front cover but still keeps the interlock in place an operational. These interlocks should pass local muster but there is no guarantee. Most transfer panels, the units that have several switches and interconnected pushbutton circuit breakers use double throw, center off switches where it is impossible to connect to both generator and utility power at the same time. 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I have scanned messages in this forum and have found differences of opinion about ridge vents. I am having a new roof put on an older home in Northern Illinois. Both layers of the existing roof will be removed and some plywood will have to be replaced. Several roofers say they will install ridge vents; one experienced roofer says that ridge vents have problems and he will put in 4 – 6 mushroom vents. He also recommend installing a power roof vent since we have a whole house fan that is ineffective because, I believe, the attic ventilation is inadequate. There are no gable vents; we do not have cathedral ceilings. Additionally new siding and soffits will be installed as part of our remodeling. Any suggestions as to whether I should have a ridge vent installed? Thank you for your response. I would opt to have new soffitt vents installed along with new gable end vents. It should be pretty inexpensive and easy if done during the siding work. There are lots of options for attractive gable end vents to match your siding. Properly sized gable, soffitt and ridge ventilation should take care of your attic vent problems without adding one of those ugly mushrooms. Ill go the other way. Some codes now outlaw ridge vents. The wind can blow heavy rain back up in to them as it runs along the whole ridge. Then the ones that come with a filter like it gets dirt in it and air cant get out. If you have the gables put vents in them for sure. Can also put a attic vent fan in. And still put button vents near the ridge You need 1sq ft vent for every 150 sq ft of attic. Thats 1/2 in and 1/2 out. For a attic vent fan sq ft of attic X 0.7=== the CFM of the fan. ED I was looking at adding another electric roof vent. the guy at the home center said the mushroom vents were better and I should just add one of those. Is there an appreciable difference between the two options? Is there any rule of thumb about how far apart the mushroom vents shou be placed and how far from the peak? Originally Posted by whoachubby Is there any rule of thumb about how far apart the mushroom vents shou be placed and how far from the peak? Regarding venting, a lot depends on your location: are you in the snow-belt or sunbelt, and what is the direction of prevailing winds. In the snow-belt, mushroom vents are often covered up by snow accumulation, so there is a move to larger vents that stay clear even with heavy snow. Also, in the snow-belt, using power fans is usually NOT a good idea, as there is a danger of sucking warm moist air from the house into the cold attic where it can cause condensation. In the sun-belt, that's not an issue, so power fans are generally good for evacuating excess heat. The weakness of many (not all) ridge-vent designs is that snow and water CAN be blown in. They are usually used for esthetic reasons, but the installer must be aware of contra-indications. If a roofer cannot tell you how they prevent entry of water into ridge vents (other than telling you 'trust me'), then they shouldn't be doing the roof. The goal of all venting to get a steady, laminar flow of air from the base of the roof (the soffits) to the ridge of the roof. The vents along the ridge should be placed to give the most effective distribution of air flow. Assuming there are no obstructed locations, this can be achieved by separating them about equal distances from each other. In terms of location relative to the ridge, as high as possible is the usual rule. your local building code will specify the amount of vents rewuired
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A leg broke off one of our cast aluminum patio chairs while being stored for the winter. It's held to the chair by three bolts and the break is through two of the bolt holes. Is there a reliable way of repairing this type of cast? An earmark of quality aluminum furniture is welded joints (preferably full-circumference welds) rather than bolted. See http://www.aluminumrepair.com/ for info on repair. Click Aluminum Repair in the bar at the top of the page. Something you could try is aluminum brazing rod. You heat the aluminum with a torch (mapp gas is hotter than propane) and then rub the brazing rod onto the hot metal to braze the parts together. Sounds like the break is in the most critical area where the stress is the greatest. You also might be able to braze an aluminum patch onto the area and redrill your bolt holes. There's no way of knowing if it will work until you try it... and no way of knowing how much weight it will hold until you sit in it. A few welding shops can weld aluminum too. Welding is far superior to brazing. Is welding superior to brazing? Not a welder here. At http://www.aluminumrepair.com/ they claim brazing is stronger. Is that marketing again? That subject was discussed at: http://www.siletzbay.com/Bearhawk/3.1.4-Tools-Welding if you go down to the post (+++ #1745) Judge for yourself. As you pointed out, quality aluminum furniture is welded. I mentioned brazing only because it's a DIY fix. Excellent info. Welding would offer stronger, long-term repair than brazing. Brazing does sound more handy for a DIYer who could not locate a welder. Careful group. Brazing aluminum is like brazing stainless steel. It can give off a deadly gas if you do not have exactly the correct rod. It is best to have pro welders do this type of job. Hve a nice day. Just for fun I did a Google search for +brazing +aluminum +deadly and didn't come up with much, so I'm not sure what you're referring to, unless maybe you've seen some type of cheap rod imported from China with unknown alloys that doesn't have a warning label of some type. Any form of welding or brazing, even soldering copper- where one type of metal is melted will give off a certain amount of gas that is of an unknown makeup. Brazing is done at low temperatures, less than 840F. Ventilation is the key thing. Cars give off a deadly gas too, but you wisely use them with plenty of ventilation. Caution is a good thing though... keep us from completely wrecking ourselves at work, right? It is the combination of the rod melting and the metal melting, especially alloys, that give off the gas. Have a good day. It may snow there. Yes, its already snowing out west. We just expect rain here, at least until Sunday the way it sounds. It's amazing that we haven't had to scoop any snow yet this winter. Sure makes working outside more pleasant! Just a follow up to my previous weather forecast... that rain turned out to be FREEZING rain, and one of the worst ice storms to hit our area in years. I was at my in-law's in Central Nebraska when the wind came up and the power went out Saturday night. Power lines were almost 2 thick with ice, trees snapping, falling on power lines, power poles snapping because of the ice and wind, it was bad. We just made it home today, and they don't expect power to be back for weeks out there. We had to take a 4WD truck into town to fill up water tanks at the fire department for his cattle. (no electricity to run the water pumps). I think he'll be getting a generator ASAP! Originally Posted by WGW A leg broke off one of our cast aluminum patio chairs while being stored for the winter. It's held to the chair by three bolts and the break is through two of the bolt holes. Is there a reliable way of repairing this type of cast? Chances are it's pot cast. Pretty much worst of the worst. I've repaired them before using a mig machine, but they wont hold much weight. I've also repared them using cast rod, with a delicat hand but the specimen that I was working on was super thin, so it also lasted only so long. If it's thick metal, it's totally worth working on. If it's thin, go down to the store and buy some more.
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We're moments away from signing the central air contract and I'm looking for your opinions on the freon.... our a/c contractor said that right now, r22 is more reliable. He said he's seen problems in commercial refrigeration units with r410A. he also said that r22 is ozone friendly and does not contain chlorine. We know that after 2020 r22 will no longer be available but the life expectancy of the unit itself isn't more than 20 years. Do you guys think we'll be ok with the r22 unit? THANKS I say go for the R22 for now it will be around till 2030. Now R410a is good and all that. We do have to go to it. But for now the cost is to far out. First it is a mix of two freon's. Now say you have a leak in the unit and its over 50% of the freon in it. All the rest of the freon has to be taken out and all new R410a put in as a liquid. Thats so the mix is right so you see a leak in R410a can cost you a lot. Might look at this http://www.acoolflame.com/freon_r22_...efrigerant.htm ED I agree with Ed. Nothing is wrong with R-410a but at the present time, it is expensive compared to R-22. R-22 will be around a long time but it will get more expensive and R-410a will likely come down in price as this refrigerant becomes the standard and becomes plentiful. What is driving this situation is government dictates because R-410a is supposed to be more environmentally friendly. Some of the manufacturers charge more for R-410a equipment. It is my understanding that the pressure in the condensing units has to be rated higher to handle this refrigerant. To answer your question, R-22 is OK at this point in time. Let me help y'all. R410A is the way to go as starting in 2010 the manufacturing of new units with R22 has to stop completely at the same time th elaw stats that R22 production has to be reduced by 60%. So what you are looking at is the cost of R22 going up 1000% just liek the old R-12. So since your unit will be 6 yrs old in 2010 and if it has a leak we will find most a/c companies will convince people to replace them as the r-22 will be to costly. Plus as of Jan 2006 the minumum seer will be 13 and most of those will all be R410A. I'm going to side with the R-22 guys. I feel strongly that even after the 60% reduction, there will still be plenty of R-22 around yes it will be more expensive but I don't think it will skyrocket like R-12. Just one correction on the original post: R-410a does not contain clorine, not R-22. Originally Posted by Grady Just one correction on the original post: R-410a does not contain clorine, not R-22. I thought neither one had it?! My opinion is that this issue of R-22 vs R-410a is getting overthought and beat to death at this point in time. Both products are tried and proven and will do the job. It is difficult to forecast what the price of these refrigerants will be in 3,5,10,15 years. Both refrigerants will be available and frankly in year 2005, I think it is ridiculous to make a decision on equipment based on this single issue. One product has been proven to cause ozone depletion and the other is supposed to be ozone friendly. Having said this, I commend to your attention the following website for additional information. http://www.410a.com/ What is ozone? Ozone is a type of molecule that is made of 3 connected oxygen atoms, which is written in scientific terms as O3. It is mostly found in the stratosphere, and absorbs harmful ultraviolet radiation that would otherwise find it’s way down to us and cause a variety of problems for humans, animals, and plants. Stratospheric ozone is different from ground-level ozone, which contributes to smog in our cities. How could CFCs and HCFCs affect the ozone layer? Ozone is constantly being made in our atmosphere, mostly by collisions of oxygen molecules (O2) and oxygen atoms (O). Ozone is also constantly being destroyed by similar collisions between O3 molecules and O atoms, resulting in pairs of O2 molecules. In theory then, there is a balance between creation and destruction that results in a constant layer of ozone. The full names for CFCs and HCFCs are Chlorofluorocarbons and Hydrochlorofluorocarbons. CFC molecules are made of chlorine, fluorine, and carbon, and HCFC molecules also have hydrogen atoms attached. The widely accepted theory of ozone depletion is that these molecules, once emitted to the atmosphere, eventually are broken down over long periods of time into their individual atoms. The chlorine atoms then react with the ozone and cause ozone destruction to happen faster than ozone creation. Why is ozone depletion considered bad? Because stratospheric ozone protects us from harmful ultraviolet rays, ozone depletion means people, animals and plants are all affected by these rays when the ozone layer fails to stop them. This may include: Increases in skin cancers. Increases in cataracts of the eyes which can result in loss of sight. Reduction in the yields of important food crops, according to some scientists. Why can’t R-410A affect the ozone layer? R-410A is not a CFC or an HCFC. It is called an HFC, or hydrofluorocarbon, and is made of hydrogen, fluorine, and carbon atoms. Because it has no chlorine, it won’t interact with the ozone layer once it breaks down. Because it has no chlorine, it won’t interact with the ozone layer once it breaks down. Now thats for the R 410a .Now lets look around here it looks like we are just after the chlorine thats in R 22 is all.So just how much of it comes from the AC units we have out there now that have like 3 lb of R22 in them and it gets out in the air. I think we should look at all the other uses that we use chlorine in . Just to start, the drinking water we have .All the swimming pools. Then when you wash clothes you put more chlorine in the water that will end up in the ozone later on. I cant think of all the other things that have chlorine added to them and washed with it. This all goes up to the ozone.. Now cost wise on freon R 410a. Oh boy its high now for sure. On top of that if you have a leak with the R410a and over half of the freon is out of it . Then the freon that is still in the unit has to be pumped out in a recovery set up. Then all new 410a has to be put in so its the right mix as 410a is two freons and you have to charge the units by liquid only. Now we have tanks of used 410a no good. The freon companys wont take them back as they say they cant clean them and its not the right mix to be call 410a. In all are we saving anything here at all. Might want to read this for sure. http://www.toad.net/~jsmeenen/freon.html My .02 cents ED Yeah Yeah Yeah and other countries will be producing R-12 R-22 R-410A and using it and venting it. so what now ? Some thoughts think that global warming is HOG WASH!!!!!!! Just my two cents worth. This thread has gotten argumentative and no longer helping the member.
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Hello, I have a 16-month old Troy-Bilt riding mower. I just tried starting it after it being in the shed for the winter. No sound at all. I've plugged a battery charger into it with settings at 6 amps and 12 volts. I left it attached overnight. If I unplug the battery, still no turn over or sound from the tractor. If I try to turn the tractor on while the charger's all attached, I get a rapid noise coming from the battery area. Yesterday, when I tried, I got that noise, or I got a sound like the flywheel was trying to turn. Now, only the rapid rattle noise. Any advice is appreciated! Thanks in advance, Steve try putting the battery back on the mower and using a set of jumper cables from your truck to the mower and see if it will crank. You may just have a dead/bad battery. I have a battery that is 6 years old-I take it off mower every fall-put in basement on a piece of wood use a small trickle charger on it every month to bring it to full charge. If your battery is dead-try this next time-it may save your battery. Originally Posted by Dogwood29 try putting the battery back on the mower and using a set of jumper cables from your truck to the mower and see if it will crank. You may just have a dead/bad battery. My manual says to NEVER jump from a car/truck, so I'm a bit reluctant to try that. I've been charging the battery while it's still connected to the tractor. Is that bad to do? Steve If you are worried about it-disconnect the battery cables leave battery on tractor-- while you are charging--your battery is 12v ? I think your battery is dead.............. Steve, I don't see your location but anyway..... If the temps in the shed got down below freezing for any length of time, and the battery was not kept charged as mentioned before, very likely it froze and is now kaput. If you had a charger on it for that long, and it still won't hold a charge, it's kaput. What about the level in the cells? Did you bring them to the proper level with distilled water? Do you have a voltmeter to check the battery voltage after charging, and then a few hours later? If it drops much below about 12.5 VDC, like down to 11VDC, its kaput. You can also check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in the cells with a battery fluid tester from any auto parts store. If batteries are not being used for a prolonged period of time, then j Howards method will keep them good til the next use. This applies to cars, motorcycles, boats and mowers, anything using a wet cell battery. I live in upstate New York, where it can definitely get cold over the winter. What would surprise me is that there wasn't a problem in year 1, when it was also stored on the tractor in the shed in the cold. Level of water in the cells? Not sure even check that. I don't have a voltmeter. There is a meter on the charger. It's connected to the tractor battery now, and the needle is bouncing around the bottom of the meter. Does that tell me anything? Thanks again. If a battery freezes--it will die The first year you had a relatively new battery, it may have survived. The second year, maybe not. Does the battery have screw caps on the top? Or is it sealed? If sealed, then no, no way to add water. If caps, you should add water til it reaches the bottom of the fill hole (for black cases), or until it comes up to the full line on the outside of the case (for clear or translucent batteries). The meter on your charger is probably for the amps (current) going into the battery, not the voltage. If its at the low end of the scale, then it's putting out very little current, meaning the battery should be almost fully charged. Unless its a pretty good charger, it won't have a voltmeter. You could pick one up at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks. They come with basic instructions, which is all you'd need att. Thanks for all the advice. The batter does not have screw tops (seems sealed). So, given that it seems the battery is giving out low current, could that still happen if the battery is dead? Steve Yes, absolutely, and probably not the right voltage. Time for a new one, and better maint next winter. Talk to your local small power equipment shop, they will be happy to help you. Prob time for a good service checkup on the whole machine, right? Your battery has passed on to a better place. Time for a new one. Do yourself a favor and spend the extra 5 or 10 bucks for the stronger battery (around 300 or more cranking amps). They generally last longer and perform better than the lower amp batteries. Yep, battery is dead. Now I know to bring it inside for the winter! Thanks for attending the funeral ;-) Steve
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Does anyone have any plans for a sturdy hamemade ladder stand that they would be willing to share? A friend of mine gave me permission to place a stand on his property. I'm a big guy and would prefer to build my own ladder stand. Could someone point me in the right direction. thanks Tom Hey Tom, how's it going? Are you talking about making a metal ladder stand? If so, I would just head to a hunting shop, take a look at what they got. You've got a good friend there. I'm sure you'll be tossing a couple of t-bones his way. Good luck in whichever stand you make, and in the upcoming season. Jay I would like to get plans for a good permenent wooden stand, Portable ladder stands seem to come up missing a lot in my area :mask: Cables, chains, locks, it doesn't matter, put them out on a Sunday, come Monday morning, It may not be there. A permenent stand would be harder to cart off thanks anyway! While being able to say I made it myself when speaking about the stand you bagged a deer from is self gratifying, it could also be self endangering. Wood deteriorates rather quickly when left in the outdoor elements(rain,wind,ice,snow). If not checked rather often to insure stability and good condition, the next time you used it could be your last. Any time you place yourself any distance off the ground you want to insure safety. More hunters are injured by falling from their deer stands than other hunting accidents. This is the main reason most all professionally or commercially built units are made from metal or fiberglass. If you google for homemade deer stand plans or homemade hunting stand plans you will come with a bunch. Add the word free and you will come up with a little less but still enough to choose from. You can also look at pictures of stands and make something that will suit your needs. Just remember that when you build something to hold you in a tree, you are backing your life/health with the guarantee of your workmanship. Is it worth the risk?????? Hey Big Tom, I have seen these plans before, but never have tried any of them, hope it helps http://www.angelfire.com/sc/huntingstands/index.html Sorry I don't have a picture but I'll try to explain how I build my ladder stands. I only use pressure treated lumber and plywood and ring shank 16penny nails or 3inch sheetrock screws (galvanized is best) for the body of the stand and I attatch to the tree with 40 penny spikes. Staring with the seat I use a 2ft by 2ft piece of 3/4inch pt plywood that I paint with some kind of waterseal product until it will no longer suck up anymore. Cut a 6 inch v notch in one side (this will go up against the tree) mount the seat on 2 parallel 4ft long 2X4's leaving 4 inches of the 2x4 exposed on the front (v on the back) with the narrow side of the 2x4's against the plywood. Now get 2 16ft long 2x4's and place them inside the 2x4's holding the seat (agian narrow side up) to get the spacing for the ladder rungs (should be around 18 inches) now square up the 2 16ft 2x4's and starting from the top measure down 18 inches (this is the most comfortable distance I've found) for the top rung. Then just place a step every 18 inches til you get to the bottom use 2 nails or screws in each side of each step (if the pt is old and dry it helps to predrill holes to keep down splitting). Now you have a top piece and a ladder lay the top piece on its side and place the ladder inside the 2 2x4 with the notch in the back and the ladder at about 10 degrees off vertical (makes for easier climbing if not straight up) now use nails or screws to attach the ladder to the seat assembly (I put 3 or 4 from each side and cinch them down by bending the points over) now you have a basic ladder stand. The best way I've found to put them on the tree is to use and extension ladder. Get a friend to help you lean the stand up against the tree and move the legs out until the seat is level (the 2 ft legs behind the seat should extend past the tree that you are mounting it on) now climb the ladder and attach a piece of 2x4 to the top of the seat rails with nails or screws so that the board is tight to the tree. then drive a 40 penny spike thru the short board into the tree, this will hold it to the tree . Sorry I forgot you need to make 2 braces. You'll need 2 4ft long 2x4's these are to be nailed just forward of the back of the plywood and down to the ladder on either side to give the stand support (make a triangle several steps down with these and attach inside the seat 2x4's and outside the ladder 2x4's again use several nails or screws from each side. Now with the stand attached to the tree if you would like you can make a shooting/safety rail by attaching 2 4ft long 2x4's at the junction of the ladder and the seat down to the braces . I've found that by angling them slightly forward with 21 inches above the seat level and the bottom (or excess attached to the braces and then putting another 4ft long 2x4 on the top then take 2 more 4ft 2x4's and attach them back from the front rail to the tree (it helps to hold the side rails against the tree and cut the front rail at an angle to make the joint tighter) then use nails or screws to attach to front rail and 40 penny spikes to the tree. Now all you need is a back rest- 12inch by 18 inch piech of plywood placed at a comfortable angle and attached to the seat and the tree and you have a tree stand. I hang camo cloth from the shooting rail all the way around for conceilment and use a boat cushion for comfort and a pull up rope for my gun and I'm ready to go. Hope this helps. rugerman the best stand i ever built was out of some damaged construction scaffold. safe to use but not liability proof. painted green, 3 ea 5' 6 sections with the top wrapped in a cammo crop cloth. safe, comfortable for two, and damn hard to steal. rugerman spelled out a pretty good stand, his description is very similar to those that I used to make. I gave these up for a couple resons, lumber cost vs. the cost of a 'store bought' metal stand and lack of portability. Those wooden stands get heavy and a real pain to relocate!! If you opt for wood though, do yourself a few favors, 1) put the seat/platform angle a little more than 90 deg to put a slope on the ladder (much nicer to climb) and 2) completely glue everything, over time water and wind swaying your tree will loosen all the nailed together boards. -- Not fun having a step come off either under foot or in your hand. Big Tom, I know what you mean, I'm 6ft 5 inches and 350lbs. I bought myself a buddy stand. They are made for two average size people, more like a dad and son thing. Anyhow mine is rated for 500 lbs but the best thing besides the load rating is the room. I can set sideways and lean against one side, stand up, etc. because it has a railing all the way around it. I actually bought another one this past fall that the front railing folds back for bow hunting. Plus the railing makes a fine gun rest. Here in Central Illinois I can buy them for $100-$120, you'll have at least half that or more in materials trying to build it yourself. The only problem I had is where some of the tubing was butt welded on one end and open on the other, I had some rain water get inside the tube and freeze. It cracked some of the tube. I think I have that solved by spraying the foam in a can (Great Stuff) into the tubing voids. So this spring I'm heading down with my new one, replacing the old one and fix the tubing on it. Then take it back down early this fall and set it in a different location. Mine are chained and padlocked, plus they are on private ground. I've had no problems for the 5 years I had it up. Good Luck I Need Some Help. My Brother And I Want To Build Some Permanent Deer Stands On Some Property But Don't Know Where To Start As Far As Building The Deer Stands. If Somebody Can Help Me Out That Would Be Great. Type 'building deer tree stands' in your Google search box for lots of links for ideas and plans. It is important that you heed safety precautions when it comes to construction. I know someone whose faulty construction resulted in his falling. He laid on the ground all day with a broken back. Finally, after dark, family members got concerned and went looking for him. Now, he is disabled. I've built stands bought stands. Older wiser, I'd go with a welded steel or aluminum commercially made stand. There are some very good well made stands on the market. Saftey should be first foremost on your list of features. Would like some plans on build a Tripod stand at least 10' or taller i am tired of all these plans on the internet that you have to pay for.so can anyone help me with some free tripod plans please There is a lot of good info here already. I have looked myself and I personally have not found any free plans online. You do not say if you want metal or wooden ones but if metal you could buy one for less than the cost of buying your own steel. Also, if you already have structural square tubing or pipe the weight of this to carry into the woods would be many times heavier than a pre-made one The construction of stands is fairly simple and if you have the needed welding experience to build it safely you should be able to look at pictures and draw up your own plans. If you do get or make a stand make sure you have a good safety harness..............There are deaths and injuries every year from falls.
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I'm relocating my current piping and hose bib in my basement to accomodate a higher ceiling. Is it true that I don't need an inside shutoff valve dedicated to the hose bib as long as I am using a frost-free bib? also, are frost-free bibs a bad idea? at home depot, the people there have mixed opinions so I'm here asking because I know I'll get a straight answer. also, does the 1/2 piping to the hose bib(regardless of where I relocate it) have to be in some sort of configuration? I mean right now, the supply pipe has a 6 90 degree drop before it goes outside, to which I have been told is for drainage purposes. can I just route my new pipe any which way I please? You'll probably get differing opinions here also. I installed frost free hose bibbs soon after I bought my current house. I have since removed them choosing instead a standard hose bibb with shut off valves in my basement. I piped the bibbs to be the lower than their supply. In the winter I shut the ball valve and open the bibb. obviously you remember to disconnect hoses and they are installed correctly with a little down slope. I encountered one here in the early Feb ultra cold that was only about a 4 unit. I had never seen one that short before. The hose had been disconnected so the sillcock did not freeze, but the copper tubing connecting it did. Therefore, I would never use anything less than 8 and 10 or 12 is better. If I were going to do it...I'd probably go Waynes route. Good quality ball valve shut off and quality hosebibb will prob cost less overall than a quality frost free. Make sure to slope it as was mentioned. My house has 2 exterior spigots about 55' apart. 1 is about 8 higher/lower than the other. I have a valve in the cellar so when freezing temps are expected, I'll shut off the valve and drain the pipe. I've had this set up for over 15 yrs and haven't had any issues. There was 1 frost free hose bib installed when I bought my place..... it froze within a yr or 2 The frostproof faucets will come with a nylon wedge. It is to be installed on the top half of the flange holding it to the wall. It forces a downward pointing of the faucet for proper drainage. Of course, we can't ensure you remove your hoses. After your first split one, you will remind yourself. Is it true that I don't need an inside shutoff valve dedicated to the hose bib as long as I am using a frost-free bib? A lot of codes REQUIRE a dedicated shut-off valve for the hose bib, if you ever have to work on it you'll be glad you put one in, your call. I like frost-free spigots to not worry about that first or last frost in the season. But even with them, I still shut them off and bleed them through the coldest part of the winter. Rarely is the interior of the wall where the piping is run warm enough to prevent any freezing. But, just my few cents... thank you all. I'm going with a normal bib and ball valve. I was just trying to avoid adding an access hole in my ceiling. no biggie. thanks! I understand the desire to not have a access hole in a new finished ceiling. Make sure to take pictures of the ceiling area where the piping will be in case you have a problem. Keep in mind that adding ceilings change the heat flow/loss/insulation and this could possibly cause problems in the future. I have had a few homes in cold climates (as low as -50F) and everyone had a frost free bibb plus an interior shut off with a air vent for draining. Even when forgetting to shut off and drain, I had no problems, but the ceilings were not finished and closed, so freezing would be next to impossible. WE did have to run a trickle of water from the lowest faucet to prevent the water from the house supply from freezing since it had a 4.5' frost depth and rock at 4'. Having an interior shut off that has a known location, in the case of a problem, you can always cut a smaller hole where the shut off is instead of tearing our a lot of the ceiling. It may not be legal to cover it, but it sure makes sense. Dick
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I'm trying to replace a kitchen faucet. I bought a basin wrench but it doesn't seem to work on the two weird 'plastic' fasteners under the sink - so I cannot remove it. It also looks a bit corroded,too. Do I have to buy something different from the basin wrench (a regular wrench is to large)? Thank you! Good evening. Those plastic nuts were originally installed hand tight. Over the years, the particle board under the sink can get wet and swell making the nuts tight. Use a pair of needle-nosed pliers vertically. get one side against one wing of the nut and the other against the opposite wing. Now you can use one or even both hands to turn the nut with the pliers. Have a good day and let us know how you make out with your repair. Thank you! I (think) I tried your trick but it seems there is an adhesive in the bolt; plus, two of the four bolt wings are broken??? What would you advise? There shouldn't be adhesive on the bolts. There may be a buildup of deposit from water leakage. Try spraying the gunk with vinegar to dissolve it. If that doesn't work, take a sharp chisel and hammer and break the plastic washers to get them off. Sometimes brute force beats brains. Good luck and keep in touch. I have a 2 step approach when I remove these on jobs. 1. I have a special socket that I made for removing plastic faucet nuts, works 90% of the time 2. The hammer and chisel approach. A 1/2 chisel placed on the plastic nut and a quick tap of the hammer always works (split the nut) PLASTIC NUTS ONLY!!!! Hope this helps Mike Drill them off, once you get a side of the nut drilled, then a small regular tipped screw driver wedged between the drilled out part should free them up for fast removal. Wear safety goggles. Listen to plumber 2000. Use a 5/16 to 3/8 drill bit, hit each side with a hole and nut falls in half. Done it 15 seconds....Okay, 30 seconds... Do not forget the safety googles.
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Hello all, this is my first post in the forum and I really hope someone can help me out. I apologize in advance for the extensive explanation. I recently borrowed the Task-Force 5-ton hydraulic electric log splitter (http://www.abc17news.com/media/photos/news/2868.jpg) from a friend. I was utilizing the splitter for an extended period of time earlier today and, as many owners of this product are aware of, holding the hyrdaulic lever down with one hand and pushing the button with the other can be very taxing on your lumbar support. In effort to reduce back strain I began pushing the hydraulic lever down with my foot (while sitting) so I could control the plate more efficiently and minimize the distance it has to travel before splitting the logs. Over the span of four or so hours of operating the machine applying this method, the bolt that holds the actual hydraulic lever in place became very loose, thus causing the attached small metal plate used to initiate the hydraulic mechanism to displace. Once I noticed the hydraulic plate not moving forward anymore I quickly stopped the machine and investigated the problem. I discovered that the metal pin and spring that the lever pushes in (with the small metal plate) had ejected itself from the machine along with a small amount of hydraulic fluid. This pin has a narrow point on one end and appears to have thin threads on the other end. I proceeded to put the pin back in the hole it came out of (narrow point in first of course) and put the larger spring back around the other end since this was the only feasible spot to place it. I then positioned the lever back in place and re-tightened the bolt. I ran another log through the splitter and the hyrdaulic plate moved normally and split the log with ease. However, I did notice that the lever seemed to move awkwardly and did not feel the same as before this incident. My worries are that another crucial piece to the hydraulic mechanism had separated from the pin and went flying out somewhere... perhaps a washer or some piece that threads onto the end. I attempted calling the toll free help line which offered no adequate information and the Lowes it was purchased from did not have any models in stock. Does anyone own the same model splitter and could give me an explanation of what this part of the machine is supposed to look like? I have photographs attached, but basically the small threaded portion of the pin and larger spring are touching right up against the metal plate the lever pushes in. Any type of information or advice would be greatly appreciated since I do not want to cause any additional damage to the unit. I do not have the owners manual and could use the help of someone familiar with the same machine. Again I apologize for the lengthy in-concise explanation, but I wanted to be as specific and accurate as possible and hope to fix this problem (if there is one) before returning it to the owner. Thank you very much for your time. First of all, thank you to anyone who actually took the time to read my drudging and tedious anecdote regarding the wood splitter. Secondly, in case anyone else suffers the same misfortune, I located the missing piece which was comparable to finding a needle in a haystack. It is a small black metal clip which holds the stubborn larger spring in its place and is vital to keep the lever running smoothly. Keep on splittin' Glad to hear you got it fixed Wish I had a wood splitter, all I have is a go devil, a splitting wedge and sledge hammer. I enjoy splitting wood by hand when it splits easy but the logs that don't want to be split .... Mystery fix. I was using the task force to split a particulary knarly oak piece with a knot at the bottom when it all went south and quit working. I searched high and low for an owner's manual on line, no luck, and just went commando on it. I removed the wheels, loosed the nuts on the outside of the hydro pump, pulled the motor and determined it still worked, I spun the gear on the pump, it still worked, figured it had to be the piston, pulled on it and it moved in one piece, put it all back together again and took it to the shop. When I plugged it in at the shop to demonstrate the problem, it was all working again. So, perhaps it bound up and needed to be released by taking it apart, but today, I got a wood splitter again. dennis
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I just had a professional install a floating laminate floor in my condo 4 days ago. It was 12mm planks, tongue in groove (no glue used), soundproofing laid underneath (3mm). Problem: Once he left and I started to clean up, I found that most of the floor, especially in 'traffic areas' (and there's only me walking on it!) squeaks and in one area it creaks (appears to be more noticeable at night). What options do I have with regard to stopping the floor from making this aggrevating noise? What should he be doing in order to stop this? I really don't want him coming up with excuses in order not to fix this, so if you can make me aware of what needs to be done in order to make this better (or why it's happening) I would appreciate it. Thanks First of all, since it was professionally done, YOU should not have to do anything but call them back and tell them to fix whatever the problem is....in a nice way of course Did they let the flooring acclimate to your condo? Do you notice any buckling? I don't know about the soundproofing underlayment but does that include a moisture barrier in that underlayment? Did they leave expansion gaps? It really doesn't matter (it does but...) I would give them a call 1st. Your subfloor may not be level. Thank you for your prompt responses. DIY Addict - no they didn't let the flooring acclimatize. I had concerns about that as everything I read said to allow at least 48 hrs in the room. They told me that their warehouse was heated, etc. and the planks were well sealed and it shouldn't be a prob. No buckling (yet, phew). Yes, it's supposed to have moisture barrier, it was a thin layer of cloth-like material. Expansion gaps around the rooms were left and covered with quarter rounds. EM69 - I had considered that, but was told that the soundproofing material would 'iron out' any little divets in floor. I really wish I could've done it myself, but it's such an expensive supply just to mess around with (being female and all). I may have broken a nail Seriously though, I was told to try talcom powder for squeaking floors - what's your view on this? As DIYers, is it going to be hard to rectify this? Will the whole floor have to be lifted?? I will call them again (they didn't return my first call), I really wish I could've done it myself, but it's such an expensive supply just to mess around with (being female and all). I may have broken a nail it's very possible to do it yourself...being female and all (I did!...of course with the help of all the people here on the forum. They were the greatest!). Maybe next time around! Yeah, the nails would have to go! They told me that their warehouse was heated, etc. and the planks were well sealed The acclimation is supposed to be done where it's supposed to be installed at. Who cares about their warehouse! I could be wrong about that but that's what I understand. Heating will make the laminate expand so let's say they installed it in your condo with the laminate fully expanded and even left the gaps as required...what happens when it gets cold and the laminate shrinks?...you'll start seeing gaps through the quarter rounds right? Don't know about the talcom powder but I'm sure someone will respond. I hope those guys return your call! Let us know! I'm sure if they never call you back the guys here will help you solve your problem. Don't give up hope though and make those guys fix your floor! You paid them money to do the job right so get your money's worth outta them. Their lack of acclimating the floor, to be in a hurry and slap it on the floor, ended up costing them a wasted day, pulling up and reinstalling your floor, with floor prep this time, also. They did prep the floor to make the substrate flat, didn't hey. The spec sheet in the cartons of laminate will tell exactly how and what needs to be done to have a lasting trouble free installation. Read those instructions, and you will see all the corners those HACKS, cut. well, he came back (took a while and a few phone calls), but basically what is happening is that the laminate was cut close around door frame (in order to look good) and with it being a floating floor and not level between rooms (no they didn't check level of concrete floor before laying), the floor definitely moves more in that area (wish they had put more padding down there), therefore, planks 'rub' against door frame and make creaking noise. He did say that they could come back and cut them, but the space will be a lot bigger and not look as good with the gap (I thought he had a good point). Quarter round cannot be used around the door frame because of the design of it. Nor can it be cut as it's a metal surround with wood fronts - that's condos for you (hope I described that right). And even with doing that, because the floor is uneven in that area, he couldn't guarantee that cutting the boards would get rid of problem (cowboys!) I got the sense he wasn't eager to bring someone out to lift floor and lay it again. Is there any kind of 'file' that I can try and use to file the board down a little in order to stop the creak? The space is close to none existent and I really don't want big gaps around doorway, unless there's something I can use to mask the cut and make it look pretty. Probably not a good idea, but I did use a little WD 40 on it and that helped!! Can I use the talc suggestion to 'silence' the little squeaks that comes with the floor moving (floating floor). I just can't go through the upheaval that would happen in order to level concrete floor and redo floor. I don't intend to live there for more than another year or two! Since the job wasn't done to manufacturers specifications, I would insist on a monitary refund!!! Those guys HACKED your floor in, and now are going to get off scott free for ripping you off! It's the same as stealing, in my book. Originally Posted by DD4 well, he came back (took a while and a few phone calls), good Originally Posted by DD4 but basically what is happening is that the laminate was cut close around door frame (in order to look good) and with it being a floating floor and not level between rooms (no they didn't check level of concrete floor before laying), the floor definitely moves more in that area (wish they had put more padding down there), therefore, planks 'rub' against door frame and make creaking noise. I'm not a pro about doors but can they use a reducer strip perhaps?...or square nose? What does the door look like? Is it the front door? Patio door? Originally Posted by DD4 He did say that they could come back and cut them, but the space will be a lot bigger and not look as good with the gap (I thought he had a good point). Quarter round cannot be used around the door frame because of the design of it. Nor can it be cut as it's a metal surround with wood fronts - that's condos for you (hope I described that right). And even with doing that, because the floor is uneven in that area, he couldn't guarantee that cutting the boards would get rid of problem (cowboys!) no guarantee huh? Originally Posted by DD4 I got the sense he wasn't eager to bring someone out to lift floor and lay it again. Is there any kind of 'file' that I can try and use to file the board down a little in order to stop the creak? The space is close to none existent and I really don't want big gaps around doorway, unless there's something I can use to mask the cut and make it look pretty. Probably not a good idea, but I did use a little WD 40 on it and that helped!! I wouldn't be eager either...it's like doing another piece of crappy work for free. An they call themselves professionals? They should be more than willing and sorry but I guess you don't get a lot nowadays. Why are they going to lift the floor and lay it again? Are they going to do something different? Maybe level the floor? I would fire them, get my money back and find a better installer. Sorry...it's just IMO. I know it's a lot of hassle and work and stress, but I don't know how many times you'll have to call them again and (not your business and maybe it wouldn't bother you) but what about the people that will be living there later? did you ever gwt the squeaks fixed? I just had beautiful Armstrong (coastal living): laminate floating floor installed, and they creak! I had Armstrong's best laminate flooring professionally installed in December 2009 in my kitchen. The noise from the squeaks and the creaks is driving me nuts. I called the installer and the company I bought it from and they said the noise will go away after awhile ! Well, here it is 3 months later and no improvement. I think it's actually getting worse. Help !!! I fitted a floating floor a few years ago, on top of a concrete slab and used the underlay with the moister barrier. The floor has not stopped creaking since! Hoping it would stop but not the case. The reason I think is the underlay is too hard and doesn't absorb enough of the deflection of the flooring when you walk?? Or/and the floor not entirely level, but it was professionally finished and seemed pretty good. I think if I pull the floor up and replace the underlay with the standard softer one should fix it. A lot of stuffing about!! Has anyone have a solution? I have 750 sq feet of Armstrong laminate I just installed. Its across three rooms and a hallway. The installation guides state that glue isn't needed, unless it is for a kitchen/bath installation. So I didn't use glue in the first room or hallway. To be super secure.. I glued all strips in the front door entrance area and the hallway, per Armstrongs instructions for possible wet area coverage. Then I discovered the first room and hallway creaks annoyingly. I continued to then use glue in the other rooms (even though they weren't really potentially wet areas like a kitchen or bathroom. End result: Every single area where the laminate was additionally glued together is extremely quiet... Any area where I didn't add the glue to the locking seams... They creak and click a little. I now wish I simply applied glue everywhere despite Armstrongs instructions of it not being necessary unless it's a wet area. I can show anyone four locations where the glue is silent zone and the creaking is pretty much whereever there wasn't the glue applied. I presume it stops minor rubbing between the planks. I will be able to reverse back about 60% of the unglued area. I will then just re-lay them again with the manufacturers glue. I am highly confident that should fix my creaking problems based on the installations throughout the other rooms. Unfortunately the hallway (the main traffic area) can not easily be so easily redone! Oh... And I did use Armstrongs premium underlay/soundproof under all the laminate. Not sure if it was mentioned in the previous posts, but you may alleviate the creaking in the hallway by lightly dusting the area with talcum powder, brushing it in and vacuuming it up. You can use a damp mop to remove the remainder. The talcum will soak in the cracks and provide lubrication. Sounds like the floor wasn't flat. I agree Sam, the flooring shouldn't move if the substrate was flat. There may be pockets of slump. A couple of points. First, since laminate changed from perimeter glue to mechanical joining, I have not acclimated laminate on any job I've expedited. This totals probably 50-100,000 square feet of product. I've worked for three different stores during this period and they've all had the same policy. Friends at other stores do not acclimate laminate either. So my feeling is that lack of acclimation is probably not the problem. The metal door frame is a difficult issue, they should have made clear to you that it could be trouble. I think though, that the squeaking is a problem with the laminate, not the site conditions. I sold Armstrong Grand Illusions to a customer about a year and a half ago and after we installed it (un-acclimated) the customer reported the exact same issue. I expedited a claim through my distributor, Armstrong sent out an inspector and authorized a replacement. I also checked with a couple of buddies in the business and they are familiar with this problem. I would ask your retailer to schedule a mill inspection. I wouldn't mention the lack of acclimation to the inspector though. Not because I think it matters, but because, in my experience, manufacturers will seize on any reason to deny a claim. I really think they leave the acclimation requirement in the instructions mostly for this reason. Dear Fletchy; Thank you for sharing Glue fix Armstrong laminte floor. Can you let us know what brand of glue you used? Did you only use the glue on the short end? or the long side too? Thank you for sharing. According to the logs, Fletchy hasn't been on the site since the day he joined and made that post so I am doubtful you will get an answer. That said, he did state he applied the glue per Armstrong's instructions. do all laminate squeak, I was thinking of installing in the basement... if i do should i secure the platon?
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