tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-55674466542560617502024-02-19T23:40:33.106-08:00Wrought iron furnitureAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comBlogger3095125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-51466233841855673982014-03-12T20:45:00.009-07:002014-03-12T22:07:24.625-07:00Wiring Doerr/Emerson 1/2 Hp 120 V Motor<br><br />Hi Group,<br />The motor is for a marine winch. It will have a reverse switch and a remote on/off switch.<br />Can someone please help me figgure out wire it up?<br />A JPG of the of the motors' lable showing the connections will be emailed upon request.<br />Thanks in advance,<br />Randoob<br /> <br />You could post a jpg of the connections on a site like photobucket or others so we all could see it.<br /> <br />If it has P1/P2/T2/T3/T4/T5/T8, I can help.<br />It will help to know more about the control, and what voltage you will be running it on/<br /> <br />Hi Chandler and Clasicsat.<br />Thanks for responding. I'll be using Low Voltage (120V). See JPG at:<br />http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l154/randymcdermott/<br /> <br />A single-phase motor has a Start winding(s) and a Run windings(s).<br />Changing the direction of rotation is effected by changing the connection of the Start winding to the Run winding. The 2 leads to the Start winding are S1 S2 and the 2 leads to the Run winding are R1 R2<br />With L1 L2 as the two 120 volts Line-leads, then a L1-S1-R1 L2-S2-R2 connection will give, say, CW rotation.<br />To reverse to CCW rotation S2 is connected to L1 R1 and S1 is connected to L2 R2.<br />You will have to extend 4 leads--- 2 Start and 2 Run--- from the internal motor-connections to double-pole double-throw reversing switch.Both the Start windings and the Run windings must each be connected for 120 volt operation.<br />I suggest you locate a motor repair shop for expert advise.<br />Good Luck, Learn Enjoy from the Experience!!!!<br /> <br />Thanks for the info Pattbaa but wiring is not my forte. I'm kind of hoping to see a schematic.<br />Randy<br /> <br />For anyone interested,<br />I'm still working on this one. The winch is quite old and it looks like a replacement would be about $700 CDN. The drive shaft had a new keyway cut in it and the unit itself has been re-painted Army Green (if there is such a color). The main bearings for the winch shaft are babbited (quite rare these days).<br />I managed to figure out the motor wiring (cudos to PATTBAA) but the reverse switch has been a problem so far. I bought one from Princess Auto, the only one they had in stock with 12 connection points and no instructions with it.<br />This week end was spent with a multi tester trying to figure it out.<br />I'm going to another electrical supply store this afternoon to get another switch. Hopefully that one will have instructions as to where to connect.<br />Thanks to Chandler for pointing out PhotoBucket. That is really easy to use!<br />Another update comming soon.<br />Randy<br /> <br />can you figure out the switch?<br />how many positions does the switch have?<br />check continuity between each contact and every other contact in every position.<br />All in all the control wiring is quite simple. It just depends upon what you have or can get as to wire it.<br />Also, where is the control going to be in relation to the motor.<br />The run button should be a momentary switch and then you can have a reversing switch (2 pole double throw as PATTBAA posted earlier). If you have a 3 position 3 pole momentary switch, you can do it all in one switch. If not, you will need a separate directional switch and the momentary run switch.<br />I am not sure as to the switch that interchanges the lead connections but the power switch would need to be rated for the purpose (hp rated. in your case 1/2 hp at 120 volt minimum)<br /> <br />To Clarify what PatBaa said, with respect ro the Doerr motor (which I am intimately familiar with as I care and feed at least 4 of them and their likenesses of other makes.)<br />S1S2 are T5 and T8 on the Doerr motor<br />The run windings are<br />T1 (fixed to the overload protector) and T2 are Run 1<br />T3 and T4 are R2.<br />For low voltage, the odds connect together, and the evens connect together. P2 is where T3 and one start lead connects for Low voltage mode. T2, T4, and the other start lead to power neutral. Hot goes to P1.<br />That said, to wire it to a rotarty reversing switch (which I assume is what you are using). What I am familiar with are have round cans with a shaft out the end, and a handle on the shaft. Some can be configured to spring return to off, or latch onto a direction.<br />You will need to run Hot (P1), Protected Power (P2T3), T5, T8, Neutral (T2T4), and frame ground from the motor to the control box (reversing switch).<br />There should be one contact that closes in both forward and reverse mode. Power connects to one side, the other side to P1 on the motor.<br />The other contact would be three rows, and cross each input terminal with each output terminal. The center row should connect to T5 and T8 each, and either end to Protected power (P2), and Neutral. At least that is going by the rotary reversers I wired.<br /> <br />Hey Nap and clasicsat:<br />See Reversing Switch pictures at:<br />http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l154/randymcdermott/<br />3 connections on the right, 3 on the left and 6 on the bottom<br />I havn't figgured it out yet.<br />Thanks for your patience guys. I'm afraid I'm a bit of a dolt when it comes to understanding a verbal explanation of do this. If somebody could draw this up for me showing what wires go where I could do it in 5 minutes.<br />Incidently I found a drum switch at another electrical store for the low-low price of $487.00<br />Randy<br /> <br />Is that a momentary switch or does it stay in the position you put it in?<br />Make a quick check but I would assume that the 6 terms on the bottom correlate to a term on the same side but above it and make connection when turned the direction of the upper terminals.<br /> <br />I'm no motor expert but I did find this researching your post. Maybe this will help getting on the right page with what you need to do. Diagrams for 110 volt forward/reversing drum switch similar to yours are about half way into the article.<br />http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/FAQ/ElectricMotors.pdf<br /> <br />Two 4-pole contactors, each controlled by a momentary-contact push-button, is a possible solution,<br />With the two 4-pole contactors mounted side-by-side, there is a Left (L) contactor and Right (R) contactor. each contactor has 4 TopLine terminals and 4 Bottom load-terminals.<br />For BOTH the L and R contactors, the identification of the Line terminals, Left-to-Right ,is---- L1---L2---- L1--- L2<br />The indenfification of the Load terminals of the L contactor, Left-to-Right, is -- R1--R2--- S1-- S2<br />The identification of the Load terminals of the R contactor, Left-to-Right, is-- R1---R2--- S2---S1<br />With R1 R2 = the 2 leads from the Run winding, we note that both the L and R contactors will switch L1 to R1 and L2 to R2<br />With S1 and S2 = the 2 leads from the Start winding, the L contactor will switch L1 to S1 and L2 to S2.<br />The R contactor connection reverses the Start winding connection to the Line terminals by switching L1 to S2 and L2 to S1.<br />The advantage to push-button operation is the dead-man saftey feature-- the winch will operate only when someone is pushing a button.<br /> <br />Wiring the motor is no problem. Wiring the switch to it, however, is. Any chance you can find a wiring code for the switch you have pictured?<br /> <br />Hey guys:<br />It's been a hectic day at work. Sorry to keep you waiting.<br />Nap: the switch isn't momentary.<br />Roger: Thanks for the link. I understand the concept but without instructions for the switch (ie; a schematic) it's hard to know what is going on.<br />An electrician is in here today to do another job in our shop.<br />Initially he is stumped too. He's going to take the motor and switch home with him tonight to figure it out.<br />PATTBAA:<br />Sounds good but in light of the fact that my boat house is not exactly level I have to push the boat a bit to get it to go out and hold it from running into the back of the boathouse when it's coming in. Dead man is no option.<br />mdtaylor:<br />Right on. I've been up and down the internet looking for info on the switch. It's a Power Fist (Princess Autos' brand name) Electric Motor Reversing Switch Part Number 8000790. Rated up to 1 HP Dual voltage 110/220V 15A single phase.<br />That's all I know except it's starting to annoy (spelled a lot differently than it sounds) me!<br />I can't believe you guys are still with me on this. I really do appreciate the effort all of you are putting into it!<br />Hopefully the electrician will get it done tonight.<br />Randy<br /> <br />It is actually a simple hook up. If your electrician cannot get it going, check the switch for the contact situation as I posted earlier. I wouldn't want to tie together a few wrong leads if the switch is different than I believe it to be.<br />What I suspect the switch will do is this:<br />if you turn the switch to the right, the 3 terminals on the bottom right will make with the 3 terminals on the right side with each one connecting to the terminal directly above it.<br />The same for the left turn and left side.<br />If this is how the switch functions, it is a piece of cake.<br />If it is different, I would need to reconfigure the schematic I have already drawn.<br />It looks like you will need 6 control/power wires and one ground wire from the motor to the switch.<br />Let us know if you need more assistance. Those of us without lives (I am reffering to me) will be here with the answer.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by Randoob<br />Hi Group,<br />The motor is for a marine winch. It will have a reverse switch and a remote on/off switch.<br />Can someone please help me figgure out wire it up?<br />A JPG of the of the motors' lable showing the connections will be emailed upon request.<br />Thanks in advance,<br />Randoob<br />PM me with your E-mail address and I will send you a drawing using a DPDT switch that you can post for everyone to check for errors..<br />I will send a .Jpg drawing.<br /> <br />Close but no cookie.<br />OK. Got rid of the Power Fist switch and bought a Square D 2601 AG2 reversing switch. See updated pictures at:<br />http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l154/randymcdermott/<br />Scan10265.jpg. is the instructions for the switch. I think I'm using 1-Phase System: Split Phase Motor (top left box in jpg). Bottom right box shows internal switching with terminal numbers.<br />As shown in SquareDReversingSwitch005.jpg, I've got 110V (orange cable with yellow plug) going into the motor wiring box. Due to the fact that there wouldn't be enough room in the motor box for my connections, I added another box on top where all of my connections will be made.<br />I couldn't find a 7 conductor cable to run to the switch so I made one with 1/2 plastic hose and threaded 7 wires through it.<br />Most of today was spent going over all of the gracious replies above trying to make sense of it all but to no avail.<br />Would someone please try and straighten me out again?<br />Randy<br /> <br />Ok, now you have me where I am going to have to think. I actually had it for your other switch.<br />Actually this looks good too. It actually removes the requirement for jumpers needed in using the other switch.<br />ok.<br />hot wire to switch 5<br />P1 to switch 6<br />(P2, T3) to switch 1<br />(T2, T4 and neutral) to switch 4<br />T8 to switch 3<br />T5 toi swwtich 2<br />the multiple term connections can be made in the peckerhead with a single lead running to the switch.<br />Now if I have my count correct that would be (presuming the hot lead is going to the peckerhead first which it appears you did do) you have 6 hot conductors plus a ground betwen the motor and the switch which makes seven.<br />the connections of t5 and t8 can be reversed if the for-clockwise and rev-cc situation needs to be changed to the opposite.<br />edit: I hope. let the other guys pick at this before actually hooking it up.<br /> <br />Thanks for the quick reply nap.<br />I'm a bit burnt out now but I'll try that first thing in the morning.<br /> <br />nap!<br />Had a burst of energy and went at it again. Done! My round nap!<br />Cheers to all who replied.<br />Randy<br /> <br />I'm just glad nothing blew up!!<br />Just kidding. Glad to help.<br /> <br />Well...<br />The switch instructions showed a jumper between 3 and 5. I didn't know if you intended to leave that in of not. I left it in...fired it up in reverse...blown breaker.<br />Removed jumper...fired it up in reverse...bonus!...forward...blown breaker.<br />Checked my connections...my bad...fired it up in forward...bonus!<br />Forward and reverse are in the right directions too.<br />Check the video:<br />http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...gAnch=imgAnch1<br />Randy<br /> <br />The wiring I described should be the only wiring on the switch. The only diagram I used was the last one in the series of diagrams that showed the internal switching of the switch and the motor diagram you also gave for the motor.<br />I saw no connection of which you speak in either diagram.<br />The rest, I pulled out of my..........a......head! That's it, out of my head.<br />Now you really need to put a NSFW on that tail end of the video though. The last time I saw somebody half naked smiling like that...............well, I can't remember the last time I saw a half naked person smiling. Strange!<br />congrats, mission accomplished<br /> <br />I really must apologize to anyone who may have been offended by my video. After 3 weeks of trying to figure this one out, when I finally got it, I had an irresistable urge to dance arround naked.<br />I did have the forsight to close my garage door for courtesy to the neighbors but when I shot the vid I neglected to notice my attire.<br />In the future I'll be sure to have my wife preview video before posting.<br /> <br />Hey, I was just kidding ya Randy.<br />Everything's cool.<br /> <br />Come on! Laugh! That was my sorry attempt at being funny. I was wearing shorts. It was hot last night.<br />I really do appreciate your help.<br /> <br />You made me look.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/GFUa7bjNsZk" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/GFUa7bjNsZk" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: wiring, doerr, motor, Start winding, http photobucket, http photobucket albums, momentary switch, photobucket albums, switch switch, will haveAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-3526854752168396402014-03-12T20:45:00.008-07:002014-03-12T22:07:13.381-07:00Tile Saw Mk Mk370 Vs Porter Cable 1500<br><br />Approaching my 3rd tile project would like to buy a entry tile wet saw.The MK MK-370 and Porter Cable 1500 seem to be very popular. Both are designed for 10x10 diagonal cuts which I will have to modify to cut a few 12x12 diagonal. Otherwise, it 9x12 tiles. Any comments about accuracy and ease of use or other comments welcome.<br /> <br />can't speak for the porter cable, but i've got the MK, and i'm pretty pleased with it. it was less expensive than the porter cable, but it is pretty loud! i've got one of the less expensive tile saws that are set up like a table saw, but the radial-arm-saw-like ones with the sliding tables are MUCH better.<br />i recently used my MK on 12 tiles, and had no problems whatsoever.<br /> <br />Depending on how often you are going to use this tile saw, I would highly suggest a MK-770. It is a 12 x 12 with your exception to cut a 16 and 18 tile. Standard Ceramic Tiles are 12, I think... (I lay ceramic tile). I don't know about the Porters, either. I sure do like my MK-770, definitely no complaints.<br />JennyS.<br /><b>Tags</b>: tile, porter, cable, 1500, Cable 1500, cable pretty, less expensive, Porter Cable, Porter Cable 1500, porter cable prettyAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-1125038753316019362014-03-12T20:45:00.007-07:002014-03-12T22:07:02.197-07:00Rheem Criterion Iiheat Cycle Works Then Shuts Down<br><br />Hi-<br />I'm having a problem with my gas furnace and don't know where to start to find out what it might be. When the thermostat calls for heat, the draft inducer kicks on, the ignitor glows, the gas starts and burns for a short time and then shuts off. It tries this whole cycle again, with the same results. Sometimes the blower runs by itself with no heat.<br />Can anyone make suggestions as to what this problem might be? I'm hoping it's a part replacement and not a big deal...<br />Thanks in advance for your help!<br />lisa<br /> <br />When you say a short time, do you mean a few seconds?<br />If so, the flame sensor is the number one suspect. Check connections and wires to the sensor. If that looks OK, then remove and clean the metal rod with pure steel wool (not Brillo or any type with soap). Also clean the metal base where the screw is. This is your ground, and is just as important.<br />Does the circuit board have an LED? Is it flashing a code?<br /> <br />For anyone encountering a similar problem, this is what I did to fix it:<br />--Locate the flame sensor rod (it should be a piece of metal that is in front of one of the burners--usually one far from the ignitor).<br />--This is usually held in place with a single screw. Take it out and clean it with steel wool or fine sand paper.<br />--Replace sensor rod and put everything back together in reverse.<br />Voila!<br /> <br />Thanks, Jim! Actually saw your post after I cleaned the sensor rod. It definitely worked and saved me the trouble (and cost) of having a technician come out to the house. Many thanks for your fast reply!!<br /> <br />Good work. It looks like you have potential in the HVAC field.<br />Glad it worked out.<br /> <br />Hey, just wanted to say thanks! I had this same problem with the same furnace and did what you said and it Worked!<br /> <br />Same issue, same furnace. It's blocked by a panel and the panel is preventing me from unscrewing it. The panel appears to be over the ignitor. I am afraid if I get it unscrewed that I won't be able to get it back on. Any other ideas? It doesn't help that it's zero here today. I am so glad I found this forum!<br /> <br />Nevermind! I just wasn't sanding the sensor with enough gusto. It was not easily detachable and blocked, but I got it done. Been running now for over an hour. Thanks for having this one out there!!<br /> <br />Please don't revive old threads. It rapidly becomes confusing.<br />Start a new thread and report the make and model of your furnace and the sequence of events that occurs when you turn up the thermostat.<br />The more detailed and accurate your report, the better the quality of the help we can provide.<br /> <br />You made me look like a hero to my now warm and toasty wife. I owe ya one.<br /> <br />I had a similar problem with my furnace, it would light for a few seconds and then quit. I turned out to be the furnace control bard on mine. It was working fine for a month after the repair and now as of yesterday my furnace wont light. The sparker(igniter) seem to work fine, the blower is working fine but there seems to be no gas getting to the furnace. Any idea what could cause this? Thanks!<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ecd5CzJjss4" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ecd5CzJjss4" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: cycle, then, shuts, problem with, clean metal, flame sensor, problem with furnace, same furnace, short time, similar problem, steel woolAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-32960941023654237272014-03-12T20:45:00.006-07:002014-03-12T22:04:39.709-07:00poplar-flooring<br><br />I'm installing a new 7/8'' thick poplar floor (we like the grain and the price). I know that poplar is softer than oak, but I'm sure that it's harder that any of the pine flooring materials.<br />I want to use 2 brads shot in at a 45 degree angle on the edges, and a thin bead of liquid nails between each board. (the edges are not tongue and groved, just straight)<br />Is this installation OK?<br />I'm using rosin paper over the particle board subfloor.<br />Do you just staple the rosin paper to the subfloor?<br />What's the best way to fill in and finish the nail holes?<br />Thanks for your help.<br /> <br />Poplar is soft for flooring. It is rated 600 on the Janka hardness scale as compared to 1290 for red oak. The softer the wood, the more easily it dings and dents.<br />Tongue and groove hardwood flooring is preferred. 8# minimum roofing felt, overlapped and stapled, is preferred. Wood glue and sawdust mixture can be used to fill nail holes or purchase a filler. Liquid nails makes a wood floor adhesive. Flooring cleats are preferred because they do not back out.<br />Go to the National Oak Flooring Manufacturer's website at www.nofma.org and click publications. You can download the technical manual on hardwood flooring installation for free.<br /> <br />just wondering........<br />how will that floor be able to expand contract? or any nailed-down floor, for that matter?<br />and is particle board okay as a subfloor for solid wood? (i thought not because it won't hold the fasteners?)<br /> <br />How wide are the boards? Where they kiln dried?<br />IMO polplar is fine for a shop or shed floor but I'd be leary of using it in a house, especially when they are just butted up to each other.<br /> <br />Good point about the particleboard. I overlooked that. Particleboard is not an appropriate subfloor. Plywood and OSB are. Particleboard is saw dust and glue and will not hold nails. See www.nofma.org.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/7p1kDpYXy5E" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/7p1kDpYXy5E" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: poplar, flooring, hardwood flooring, nail holes, particle board, rosin paperAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-71862206515786674482014-03-12T20:45:00.005-07:002014-03-12T22:04:28.314-07:00metal-roof-over-patio<br><br />I am thinking of putting a roof/cover over my existing patio. I will be using corrugated metal and building the frame from lumber. It will attach to my house and extend out only 8'. My question is would using 2x4's for the frame be sufficient for the 8' span or do I need to step up to 2x6's? I was planning on putting the joists on 24 centers unless you think I need to go to 16 oc. Secondly, would a 1-2 drop be enough of a fall for water drainage on the metal roof. The area where I will be attaching this is already low so I would like to go with as little of a drop as possible to keep from losing to much of the height underneath on the end away from the house. I live in Texas so weight from snow in the winter is not a major concern (although we did have 10 fall this year which was a first to me in the 37 years I have been alive and lived here). Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice you have.<br /> <br />Welcome to the forums! How low is low. Your starting height is critical. You don't want the outer edge of the roofline to be lower than your head, and you need to have a good drop for rain run off. Don't forget the overhang, which will add another foot to the roof, making it 9', which will require 2x6's. Also 24 is minimal. I prefer 16. You will be installing strapping across the joisting to attach your metal, so be sure to extend it out past the last joist.<br /> <br />chandler already covered your questions but I’ll add a couple thoughts.<br />While you may be planning to do this project w/o pulling a building permit, I would build the roof over patio to be code compliant . . . it will help save you from future headaches when selling the property or filing an insurance claim if damaged (insurer will likely demand cost documentation possibly ask for a building permit). If a building permit is required and you elect not to get one, this doesn’t mean you’re completely free of all possible headaches but they should be lessened if you have detailed photos showing how the structure was built and can demonstrate it was code compliant when built. Remember, when selling the property, there is usually a standard clause in the purchase contract whereby you’re making a representation that the building is compliant with building codes. If you sign the contract without modifying that representation when having knowledge that no building permit was pulled (fairly easy to evidence approximate time it was built if your state does a periodic fly-over taking aerial photos or looking at Google earth), then you’re picking up future cost liability should the new buyers run into a code compliance issue or someone is injured by what was unlawfully constructed .<br />With respect to 24 vs. 16 oc, I would definitely go 16 oc if your home was originally framed this way as it should be easier to tie together and less noticeable to a home building inspector if hired by the buyer when home is sold . . . if your existing frame construction is 24 oc and 24 oc is still code compliant for a new roof structure, then the call is less clear and you’ll need to weigh tradeoffs with respect to a shallow sloping roof being sufficiently strong to handle a 1 in 100 yr. snow event as you just experienced. Don’t bet “Global Warming” means less cold or snow in future as that is now covered by the new “Climate Change” terminology should we enter into another ice age era.<br /> <br />low would be 89 from the concrete patio to where the top of the framing would be. I should also clarify that I will be using 8' metal so the 2x frame won't be 8'.<br />thanks for the replies<br /> <br />89 is minimal, but probably necessary in your case. In figuring your metal length, don't forget your soffit overhang and the overhang past the framing. You can have metal cut any length you want from a metal fabrication company.<br /> <br />yes, 89 is all I have. I was given the metal which is 8' so that it what I will be working off of. Thanks again for your responses.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ObwG9asbZbI" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ObwG9asbZbI" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: metal, roof, patio, building permit, code compliant, metal length, selling property, that building, when selling, when selling property, which will, will usingAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-19069103825142508832014-03-12T20:45:00.004-07:002014-03-12T22:06:10.293-07:00Indoor Gnat Problem Pet Hedgehog<br><br />I currently live in a rental home with my family in an area just outside of Hickory, North Carolina. The house itself is very old and we've known very early on that there was a bit of a mold problem within the walls. Myself and my brother stay upstairs, where the original home owner converted the attic to two more bedrooms and added an additional bathroom. Not much can be said for the quality of his handiwork - the walling is definitely inferior to the rest of the house. But again, it is a very old house to begin with.<br />During the summers, we have a bit of a gnat problem. It's generally not that bad and we attributed it mostly to a poorly insulated house. We don't leave fruit or anything of the like laying around.<br />I've recently read that indoor gnats are often attributed to house plants as well. Which there are none of upstairs.<br />Anyway, a little over two years ago, I had left for college up at Western Carolina University, where I purchased a pet hedgehog off of another dorm mate who stayed a floor below me. Needless to say, I didn't do very well up there and after a year I was back home and attending community college (Where I'm actually doing quite well, really, but that's not the point here).<br />I've noticed this summer the gnats seem particularly out of control. I've noticed, though, that they seem to almost swarm the area of my bedroom where I keep my hedgehog. He's larger than a hamster and requires more space, so I keep him in a large plastic storage container with no lid.<br />I bed his home with wood chips and clean it regularly, but it seems that as soon as I clean the storage tub and put new bedding and new food and everything back into it, the gnats are back within a day.<br />Are these the same Gnats that usually infest the insides of peoples' homes? I remember a few summers ago before I acquired the prickly critter we tried placing bowls of vinegar around the house to try and control the bothersome pests, but there was no real concentrated location of them back then, should I try placing a bowl of vinegar near where the gnats congregate around my Hedgehog?<br />In the while, Hedgehogs tend to eat the larva of insects. I fear that the gnats are possibly breeding in the hedgehog's bedding. I wasn't too concerned at first since Hedgehogs eat insect larva, but early this evening while watching some internet television, I noticed him making some odd sounds. When I approached the bin to check on him, he was looking up as if he was watching a few gnats flying about. Hedgehog's usually tend to only make vocal sounds like chirping when in heat or almost a screaming when in extreme pain or fear. This was an elongated squeak of sorts, a sound I've never heard him make before.<br />Is it possible that these gnats could be causing my hedgehog harm? And should I attempt the vinegar trap tactic again? Should I possible vacate the upstairs (including the hedgehog) for a day to spray pest control spray? I am worried about my hedgehog's well being and at the same time the Gnats are a consistent annoyance.<br />Thanks in advance to any help anyone might be able to provide.<br /> <br />Hey neighbor (kinda) I'm just over the mountain in TN. I can't speak about gnats harming your hedgehog or not but I can advise you about the gnats and then if you get rid of them, then all the better.<br />You chose a fairly easy pest to deal with, provided you can spend a little cash. I just googled the product Invade biofoam and the first site here Invade Bio Foam sells it for 40 bucks.<br />It is applied with a foamer but at the same site above it is $70<br />I only have experience with professional tools but I would be willing to try this one on amazon (because I am a cheapskate!)<br />Amazon.com: Chapin Hand Sprayer Multi Purpose Poly Foamer Sprayer 48-Ounce #1054: Home Garden<br />Your pest lays their eggs in the slime in drains and because they lay them deep within it, pouring bleach or pretty much everything else down there, will have no effect on them. The biofoam is designed to cut through the slime.<br />Follow the direction on the product label which probably states to use it at night when the plumbing isn't used much. You will need to treat each drain (sinks and tubs).<br />Good luck!<br />Oh one thing...catching them in vinegar or anything else just won't work long term. Cover a cup with aluminum foil and poke a hole it and they will drown in vinegar or apple juice but don't do the obvious and place it near your hedgehog. Instead put it between him and the drains to get them before they find him. That way it won't attract even more to him.<br /> <br />Thanks for the response. It kind of makes since, I suppose. Even though we don't notice many gnats in the bathroom upstairs itself, it was added later on by the original homeowner whom isn't the most handy of people. As such, the bathroom itself with its less-than-professional construction might be more susceptible to the gnats making their way in the home. Though I guess I could've happened even with a perfectly well constructed home, we never had a severe gnat problem back when we lived in a suburb of Charlotte.<br /> <br />The word gnat is a very general, catch-all term and doesn't help. Catch several, keep them in good condition, not alive, and take them to an agricultural office, pest control company, etc. for identification. All fly problems are easier controlled when identified. You can go on internet, look for university sites, and see what/where they breed. This is how you attack and solve fly problems. Probably not related at all to the hedge hog, but may be attracted to it since they are already there. Hope this helps.<br /> <br />I need help. I have fungus gnats that are attracted to light, and the windows. I've had them for at least 6 months, and threw out the only two plants I had 5 months ago. I caught thousands on sticky traps I attached to the windows. Now I notice they're as bad as ever. I even set a bomb off in the rooms they are in. What can I do? Could they be in the moss that is on top of fake plants? But the fake plants have been around for 12 years. I have many drains I have covered that I do not use...but they aren't near the bathrooms...just the windows. They've taken over my life. Someone please help! Thank you, Crystaldeedee<br /> <br />Crystaldeedee,<br />Here's a great Colorado State U. article with plenty of info Fungus Gnats as Houseplant and Indoor Pests<br />It basically says to limit water, so if you've removed the plants you have done that.<br />One of the ingredients listed to be effective is Bifenthrin which is the main ingredient in Ortho Home Defense.<br />Depending on your home including wall paint, kids, pets, etc, I would try to apply it to a small area first (to test how the surface reacts if painted)where they are most active...like in window sills and if all goes well on the test area; use more.<br />It works by the insects walking in it wet or after it dries and will continue to work for several weeks (the label will say how long). I would keep trapping them with glue boards too and double check for plants/soil<br /> <br />Crystaldeedee: Are you positive that they are fungus gnats? My experience with fungus gnats is that they are not as attracted to light (windows) as other fly species. Setting off aerosol bombs only kills exposed adults. To stop a fly problem, a positive identification is needed. From that, we can determine what they breed in and search for that. Phorid flies are very similar to fungus gnats in appearance, but breed in different places. Somehow, I think that moisture or plumbing issues will be the culprit. Examples: wet insulation in wall voids from rain infiltration; slow leak in sewer pipe encased in wall void; bad toilet gasket; improper a/c condensation drain going under cement floor slab (phorids). Phorids will enter from cracks in cement slabs if it is chronically wet underneath. Again, I can't stress enough how important it is to have a positive ID for whatever fly problem that one is having. Find out and let us know. Hope this helps.<br /> <br />Thanks for your suggestions.<br />These gnats are really attracted to light. BUT, I live in a townhouse and the problem in downstairs. I have a walkout. The concrete 'stoop' outside the sliding glass doors is chipped, and weather stripping from the doors had peeled away. We are planning on replacing the doors. BUT could they have been coming in during the cold (Chicago) winter months?<br />Anyway, the other concern is our neighbors (with adjacent walls) had a flood in there lower level well over a year ago. They had to replace everything. I thought there was this wonderful fire wall between the two units, but these places were noted for their shoddy work. (I can hear the man next door thumping around the house).<br />Just yesterday, I was cleaning. There was a huge web by the sliding glass door and the curtain just loaded with these guys. Some spider was having a gay old time with them.<br />You see, they come around the computer if it's the only light on at night. They were all over the windows (and still are) all winter.<br />Now, one other thing. They don't look at all like sewer flies BUT I do have two showers and three sinks I don't use. I covered the openings....BUT could they be from the dry traps, and be in another room and not anywhere near the closed drains? One shower and sink is on my third floor and there's not ONE of these up there.<br />I'm putting the sticky traps back up on the windows because I caught thousands that way.<br />Any other thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks so much.<br /> <br />Crystaldeedee,<br />You again! You can rule out their coming in during winter months, Chicago winters are too cold for that. As PA Bugman suggests, get a good ID. It's not hard; catch one and compare them to flys G7388 Household Flies | University of Missouri Extension<br />It definitely sounds as if that flood damage could be their breeding site. Aside from getting a good ID, I think you should get creative with glue traps by placing them in areas that could be their source like around plumbing, any cracks or spaces that lead or could lead to your neighbors place.<br />Over time you should be able to narrow down their source. That link above also details some control strategies once you know what you're dealing with.<br />Let us know what happens!<br /> <br />Yes, me again. Now I don't know what the heck they are. I've only seen a couple lately...around the computer screen. My husband insists they are not fungus gnats because they don't resemble a mosquito. Thanks for the links. Now my husband informs me that our neighbor's flood was two years ago. I think it's the mulch right up against the lower level doors. I have OCD when it comes to a clean house, so I can't stand it. I'll let you know if I catch more in the traps which we haven't put back up yet. UGH! Thanks again. Crystal<br /> <br />Crystaldeedee: I re-read your posts and am thinking about your sliding doors and the worn/missing weatherstripping. Could there be moist/rotten wood in that door frame, maybe underneath the sliding doors?<br />Other thought: Could these flies be coming in at nighttime if you keep windows open? Could they come in thru the screens because they are attracted to the lights. If you windows and doors are closed all the time for the a/c as ours our, then this idea won't work. Keep us posted.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/3obIpGDvMm8&list=PL05EE7FCC3D3AD514" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/3obIpGDvMm8&list=PL05EE7FCC3D3AD514" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: indoor, gnat, problem, hedgehog, fungus gnats, that they, attracted light, because they, know what, about gnatsAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-27895828227332180172014-03-12T20:45:00.003-07:002014-03-12T22:05:59.071-07:00Good Economical Rotary Laser<br><br />Anyone have any brand name suggestions for a good economical rotary laser (manual or automatic level), that would be used in home building for various task (footers, grading, etc.)?<br /> <br />You can buy Dewalt and other brands, but look here LaserMark Rotary Lasers: Automatic Self-Leveling Rotary Laser Levels for Leveling, Plumbing, and Grading, Rotary Levels, Wizard Rotary Levels, as they more or less have the edge on the lasers. You will pay more for a self leveling one, but IMO it is worth it. I didn't and regret it. Look at their rate of error. If they are proud of 1/4 in 20 ft, that ain't good. You'll want the closest accuracy that you can get.<br /> <br />I do not believe good and economical can be used in the same sentence when you are speaking of rotary lasers.<br />Good generally means fairly expensive and economical usually means less accurate.<br />the power of the laser is important as well. If outside, it would do you well to pick up an electronic laser target since actually seeing the laser while outside is difficult, if not impossible.<br />and personally, if you are going to buy any, buy an auto level. A manual is only as accurate as your eye and the bubble they installed.<br />believe it or not, if you want economical, I would suggest a water level. It is about as good as you are going to get and is cheap. You can make it as long as you want so you could level 2 points a block apart if you want.<br />it just isn't as handy as a rotary laser.<br /> <br />The receiver is an absolute necessity in daylight, or when setting footings, etc. Actually a water level is more accurate than the laser. There is no rate of error.<br /> <br />A good self leveling, rotary laser will cost you some big money. For most tasks that a home owner/light professional would do a self leveling laser line (horizontal/vertical) level will fit the bill. PLS make very good ones PLS * PACIFIC LASER SYSTEMS As do Dewalt, Porter Cable (Robotoolz) and other good names. I do have a cheap one that does a good job, but the laser is not very bright and the angle of projection is kind of narrow. With lasers you pretty much get what you pay for.<br /> <br />Thanks for the good advice. Lowes is the most convienent place for me out here in the sticks but I can go about 40 miles to a bigger town to get a good laser.<br />Take a look at this one at Lowes and tell me if anyone has had any experiences with it:<br />AccuLine Pro at Lowe's: Self-Leveling Rotary Laser Level<br />I have an old 5/8 tripod and lowes has an adapter for $15, but according to what I see in the link at Lowes, I'd still have to buy a measuring rod that fits the laser's detector as well as the detector itself (looks like it does'nt come in the $499 deal?).<br /> <br />The detectors are about $30 at the most. And you can clamp them to a 1x4 and make your own rod. You don't have to do any measuring like a rod and chain set up. Just set the detector the height you want it by using the laser in an index position, then all the other positions either will read high, low, or dead on. $499!! What comes with that gold plated baby??<br /> <br />not much more than the laser itself that I can see...that's at least worth anything anyway.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/kvkaP9vUl6Q" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/kvkaP9vUl6Q" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: good, economical, rotary, laser, self leveling, good economical, good laser, have measuring, rate error, rotary laser, Rotary Laser, Rotary Levels, Self-Leveling RotaryAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-4388807221207464712014-03-12T20:45:00.002-07:002014-03-12T22:05:47.948-07:00Do It Yourself Chimney Cleaning<br><br />We want to clean our own chimney but don't know where to start. Are there any books, websites, etc., we can learn from or is it just common sense? We just moved into this old home and are dying to have a fire in our fireplace during the holidays :-)<br />Thanks,<br />Barbara<br /> <br />Buy a good grade wire brush that fits your flue size (hardware stores usually have lessor quality) - contact a Chimney sweep who sells products.<br />You'll also need connecting rods connectors to reach from bottom to top or vice versa (you can clean it from below inside). Be sure to place tarps to protect your floor and use a wet dry/vac.<br />A fireplace has a smoke shelf just above and toward the front of the firebox; BE SURE to clean this off otherwise the creosote deposited there when you sweep down the flue will lay there waiting to catch fire.<br />Whether you have a clay-tile or metal liner makes no difference. But if you INFREQUENTLY use the fireplace, you will create MORE creosote - as each time the flue cools creosote forms. When you contact a chimney sweep ask about a spray to put on each log before you place it in the fire (I used to use Safe-T-Flue), that will help keep creosote from building up. We just sprayed a bit on each log it turned the creosote in the flue into a powder like dust making a world of difference come sweeping time.<br />You can use a mirror flashlight to look up your flue to check if it needs cleaning. If you can't see the color of flue tiles or it looks fuzzy - it needs cleaning.<br />Don't burn colored paper (gives off gases) or wood that has not been cut left sitting for at least a year (creosote builds quickly when green wood is used). Have a good fire extinquisher nearby.<br />A good chimney cap will keep rain animals out of your flue; rain, when added to ashes in the firebox will turn to acids that destroy motar, creating a fire hazard until repairs are made. We removed many birds (squirrels, bats) from homes (and bird nests on the smoke shelf or blocking the flue on top) from uncapped chimneys. Suggestion: use stainless steel - a bit more expensive but lasts a lifetime.<br />FYI: I owned a chimney cleaning repair business for 11 years. Please take all safety precautions when putting fire in your home. I've seen the results of not being safety-minded; my husband was a fireman, too.<br /> <br />As a chimney owner myself, I would have to recommend the Sweepng Log. You can find it at their website:<br />http://www.sweepinglog.com<br />It's do-it-yourself chimney cleaner, and it's easy to use. It helped my chimney get rid off most of the tar and creosote build up. I gotta recommend it. Check it out.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/fz8UBjesjUU" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/fz8UBjesjUU" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: yourself, chimney, cleaning, your flue, needs cleaning, smoke shelfAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-50446771395715578002014-03-12T20:45:00.001-07:002014-03-12T22:05:36.846-07:00Cabot Stain Vs Olympic Stain<br><br />Hello. So I visited my local Lowes store today to get a Cabot semi transparent stain in a color of choice. So the paint clerk decides to mix the paint using an Oil Based base Semi Solid. I explained to him that I did not want Semi Solid but Semi Transparent. So the guy goes of telling me that it is the same thing, just the naming. I explained to him that I did not feel comfortable buying something where it says on the can Semi Solid. So he then showed me the Olympic Maxium Stain Brand they carry where they have both gallon cans, Semi Transparent and Semi Solid. Two questions here:<br />1. Is the Semi Solid base the same as Semi Transparent as explained?<br />2. How good is the Olympic brand when compared to Cabot?<br />I am mainly looking for a stain/sealer for my outdoor furniture which is under a covered roof but with direct sunlight during the morning and part of the early afternoon. Any info appreciated. Thanks<br /> <br />I recently did 2 decks. I used semi solid on one and a clear sealer on the other. Both were Benjamin Moore. I also was told that the semi sold and semi transparent were pretty much the same but if it were my deck or furniture, I would use the clear, if anything at all.<br />I don't know anything about Olympic but Benjamin Moore and Sikkens are two more to consider.<br /> <br />Generally all coatings for sale at a big box are on the shelf because of pricing. Lowest price usually indicates lower quality<br />I don't know that I've ever heard of any stain labeled semi-solid [but I don't shop the big box for coatings] I'd suggest going to your local paint store. They will have better coatings and advice<br />You might pay more but does it actually cost more if it applies better and wears longer<br /> <br />That is just the thing... I did my deck originally using Semi Transparent from Sherwin Williams and it was more like Solid instead of Semi Transparent even though the label said semi transparent... I also visited my local paint store O-Gee Paint and they were not sure between Semi Solid and Semi Transparent. It is not the $$$ thing since they are all in range, $29 - $33 a gallon for either of the two. I have not looked at Benjamin Moore stains, but will consider. Any further info if anyone has experience with these two stains appreciated.<br />Thanks<br /> <br />All the SWP semi-transparent stain [and other brands] I've used has been a color coat that you could see the grain and different colors of the wood thru the stain. Was the previous SWP stain applied to very dry wood? or over multiple coats of semi-transparent stain?<br /> <br />I applied two coats of the SW Stain... As for the wood, it was installed and cured for one month. I just stained the furniture using Olympic and results are not bad. You can see the grain very nicely. Thanks again for all help/info.<br /> <br />I have used Cabot for years, but really can't say anything about the Olympic. I have over 1200 square feet of Cedar decking, both in the front and rear of my home. The front receives morning sun, the rear afternoon sun (with a covered shaded area of about 300 square feet). I have used the natural and cedar solutions, but much prefer the natural, as it brings out the lighter color of the Cedar. The Cedar is pro-deck sold through the local lumber yard.<br />I live in a suburban area of Portland that tends to be warmer than most of Portland, and the exposed rear deck significant sun during our hot summer fall periods. The Cabot stain wears quite well.<br />Do as marksr says, and if concerned, visit your local paint store that caters to professionals. Talk to them, the price difference may not be very much, and if closer the bonus is gas savings. You can find knowledgeable employees at a big box, but can also find less than knowledgeable more often, paint stores have to have several.<br /> <br />Paint and stain companies use some of the same names for products and colors but they are not the same. Olympic's semi-transparent is not the same as Cabot's. A paint store or a big box store should have a display so you can see the color and the appearance [or coverage] of a stain. As I recall, Olympic's semi-transparent lets through more of the grain and color of the underlying wood than Cabot's. The more solid the stain, the more and longer the protection. The tradeoff is you see less of the wood color and texture come through. Bottom line is you have to compare the appearance and the protection, not just the names. Cabot and Olympic are both high quality products. Choose the color and appearance you desire from the display and remember the more solid, the longer the protection but the less you will see of the wood. Just comparing what each company calls their stain is comparing apples to oranges.<br /> <br />Four and a half year old question....<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/c4Ep055aSVg" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/c4Ep055aSVg" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: cabot, stain, olympic, paint store, Semi Solid, Semi Transparent, Benjamin Moore, local paint, local paint store, about Olympic, anything about, anything about Olympic, appreciated ThanksAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-89585399719800538062014-03-12T20:45:00.000-07:002014-03-12T22:05:25.804-07:00Advice On Picking A New Boiler Brand<br><br />Hello:<br />I've read the sticky on the heatloss calcutions and done some basic research for replacing our 1983 Weil-McLain boiler. We have a few good bids in the $5,500 range from some top rated Angie's List companies, and they are all within a few hundred dollars of each other and all seem like good, trustworthy companies.<br />However, I still have a few questions I can't find any easy answers to and wondering if anybody here has some advice.<br />1. Does the brand or model really matter?<br />My main concern here is whether one brand or model is going to be noticeably louder than another, and whether the long-term service and cleaning expenses will be dramatically more for one brand vs. another.<br />All of the local companies seem to sell only one preferred brand, and I can not find any place on the web to find objective info on one brand versus another. My gut tells me they are pretty much the same, but then again, one guy told us our current boiler brand (1983) was very, very difficult to clean compared to other brands and gave us a $1,200 estimate for cleaning. If I can choose now I'd obviously prefer a unit that will be cheaper to clean in 10 years.<br />(For the record, our two favorite estimates sell the Crown Aruba 3 and whatever the comparable Burhnam model is (I forget). Given the negligible price difference we obviously want to choose the best, quietest, least expensive to maintain unit.)<br />2. Should we install an indirect water heater at the same time?<br />Of our 3 estimates so far, only one even mentioned the idea of replacing our water heater (also very old) at the same time with an indirect heater powered by the furnace. This seems smart, but what do I know? I'm wondering if it is an option on all or most brands, or if the other two reps did not mention it because their brand of boiler does not support it? Also is it something you can add later or is it dumb not to do it at the time of install?<br />3. Is it okay and/or normal to go with 80% efficiency?<br />I always assumed that most new furnaces were of the high efficiency variety, but when inquiring about a local energy rebate we were told that we would not qualify because our unit would only be rated at 80% efficiency. The sales rep said a 90% unit would it double the quoted price AND result in much higher long-term costs due to the annual service required. The doubling in price is due to the fact everything would have to be moved and re-piped so that it could vent outside instead of out the roof.<br />Just want to verify that this seems like legit reasoning . . .<br />Thanks for any help!<br /> <br />The very first thing you should do is a heat loss calculation. It is very common for boilers to be 2-3 times as large as need be.<br />Read this sticky:<br />http://forum.doityourself.com/boiler...nt-boiler.html<br />After doing the heat loss, please come back we'll be glad to help where we can.<br /> <br />1. Does the brand or model really matter?<br />Brand matters, so does model. Some are easier to maintain and clean than others. However, the thing that matters most is the installer. Even the best equipment in the hands of a hack can quickly be turned into inefficient junk. Somewhere around here is a somewhat recent thread by ladygolfer that has a bunch of tips for shopping for an installer.<br />So you want a good product, but you also want an installer who stands behind his work and will be there for future service/maintenance.<br />2. Should we install an indirect water heater at the same time?<br />There is not a better time to do this than new boiler time. Indirects are among the most efficient ways to heat domestic hot water.<br />3. Is it okay and/or normal to go with 80% efficiency?<br />These days, I would say absolutely not. 80% efficiency boilers are dinosaurs. Given how rapidly fuel prices are increasing, the payback on the added cost for a 93+% efficiency boiler is fairly short (7 years, perhaps even as short as 4).<br />Yes, they cost more. Yes, they require annual service (the cost of which takes a small bite out of the annual savings). However, a good boiler is a long-term appliance decision. You don't like the 80% unit in five years, you're stuck for another 15 years due to the huge cost of replacing it (again). Either way, it's money up the chimney....<br />IMHO, it's worth it up front for a high-efficiency boiler for real savings down the road.<br />There are also some very good rebates and other incentives for going with the higher efficiency units. Check out DSIRE: DSIRE Home for a list of federal and state incentives, as well as utility rebates that apply to you. Note that the federal energy efficiency tax credit is returning in 2009 (it was reauthorized in the financial bailout legislation, of all things...). Here in MA, for example, you can get a $1000 utility rebate for a high-efficiency boiler, $300 for an indirect, $25 for each new thermostat, and a bunch of other stuff.<br />If the installers you like suggest Crown or Burnham, ask for a quote on a Burnham Alpine or a Crown Bimini. (FWIW, I'd go with the Alpine over the Bimini.)<br />But first, do or have done a heat loss for the house, and figure out approximately what size indirect you need/want. Keep searching around here. There's threads on all this stuff.<br />Plenty of opinions here on installer model/brand and other options (zoning, pumps vs. valves, tempering the indirect output, etc. etc.) when it comes to the nitty-gritty of installation specs. Good luck and keep asking questions.<br /> <br />Thanks for your very detailed response.<br />1. For the installer, we have picked three that get excellent reviews on Angie's List and who have been in our local market for decades. We would be happy with any of them. Now it is a matter of picking the one with the better brand and model:<br />a. Crown Aruba III -- 80% efficiency<br />or<br />b. Burnham boiler -- 85% efficiency (not sure of model, will check it out)<br />(ETA: still waiting on a call but based on specs I'm assuming it is either the Model SCG gas water boiler or the Model PVG gas water boiler.)<br />or<br />c. (?) still waiting on the actual brand and model from candidate 3<br />I'm assuming that all other things being equal, the Burnham is the better choice unless it costs twice as much to maintain or something or is noticeably louder.<br />2. All of our estimators seemed to agree that we may be opening up a large can of worms by re-piping and moving things around for a 90% efficient model, and none of them seemed very enthusiastic about the idea. We live an a house built in 1922, with the boiler in the direct center of the basement venting out the roof three stories above.<br />Do you still think we are crazy not to pursue a 90% model, or is the 85% Burnham mentioned above good enough?<br />ETA: I checked that site you linked, and for boilers, anything over 80% qualifies for the $200 incentive (not much, but still). So the Burham at 85% would qualify . . .<br />3. All three have agreed to do a heat loss calculation prior to the actual install so I'm not worried there.<br />Mainly just worried about getting the best boiler for the best price at this point, and whether to push harder on the high efficiency question.<br />Thanks again -- very helpful to get advice from people are not also trying to sell me one of these puppies.<br /> <br />I do have one quick follow-up for anybody still reading:<br />One of the installers (for the Crown Aruba III) included an outdoor temp sensor in his bid, which he says will help compensate for the lower efficiency. Basically he described it as a way to regulate how hard the boiler has to work, based on the actual temperature outside.<br />Are these common and/or recommended?<br />Only one of the three even mentioned it as an option, which leads me to wonder.<br /> <br />Outdoor temp sensor likely means outdoor reset. He has my attention. Search around the forum for more discussion on this. Also known as ODR.<br />If you don't want to get into the serious repiping and venting, you might also consider the Burnham Revolution (RV-4). It has built-in piping to take advantage of a greater range of outdoor reset supply water temperatures and will easily integrate with existing near-boiler piping. Not huge flexibility in venting, but pretty good.<br />IMHO, it is worth it to look very seriously at the higher-efficiency boilers (modulating/condensing gas boilers). Even to the point of costing out a full install and comparing the added up front cost to the savings over the years, using a fuel price increase of some % per year. It adds up.<br />Plenty of old houses around here, including ones more than 100 years older than your place, with high-efficiency systems. It's not hard, but complexity and time to upgrade is a strong function of the specifics of your house and existing system. It does cost, but again, consider how the economics work out in your situation.<br /> <br />Update:<br />The installer we are leaning toward is a well-known local company in business since the 1940s still run by the same family. I spoke with the owner for half an hour just now, and he lives in the same bitter cold part of Minneapolis that we do.<br />He recommends:<br />1. Burnham Series 2 (84% efficiency) -- $5,800 installed minus $200 rebate sized to fit after a heat loss calculation that he will do personally. He says that this is the exact model he has in his house, and that they are proven beasts in terms of reliability and easy maintenance. He says that they rarely install the high efficiency boilers in homes in this market, because they break down frequently and require much more maintenance. His basic argument is that if everything goes perfect then the HE units are great. But if anything goes wrong, you can quickly lose your savings. Therefore they always recommend the tried and proven Series 2 with less moving parts, easier to fix and clean, less potential for breakdown.<br />2. No outdoor reset. He says they usually only install these in apartment buildings and 2-3 plexes, and that the cost and potential for problems are not worth it in most single unit homes. He also said it means that the boiler is always on and therefore cancels out the efficiencies unless you are in a zoned situation like a triplex.<br />3. Amtrol Boilermate 41 gallon indirect water heater -- $3,600 installed He said he has this same set-up in his home, and that we can do it later if we don't want to commit right now.<br />My final question to him will be to find who will supervise the actual install, but otherwise does this seem reasonable? It is $400 higher than another bid, but with a better furnace and a I guy that I trust more.<br />ETA: This same company is the one we called for our last winter check-up and also who we called when our furnace went out the other night, precipitating this situation. I left a voice mail on their machine Sunday night at 10:30, and my phone rang at 7:00 on Monday morning and a tech was here by 7:30. They did not charge us with the service call fee, due to the fact that it was the same problem they had been out to fix a month earlier. So I already feel like they are treating us right . . .<br /> <br />Would like to have a Buderus GB142 installed, but worry about water chemistry problems in the cast aluminum heat exchanger. Have any forum readers experienced any such problems? If so, how were they resolved.<br />My other selection would be the Buderus GA124 Sealed Combustion. Any options, comments on either choice.<br /> <br />The series two is the least efficient boiler sold by Burnham. The SCG or PVG would be a better choice. With a home as old as yours you probably have cast iron radiation. This makes the 90%+ efficiency boilers a better choice. The New 90+ boilers include ODR which is a good application for all boiler jobs larger or small.<br />I would avoid chimney vented boiler as the sidewall vented boilers are more efficient.<br />The heat loss is the most important step here. They need to do the heat loss first to get a proper bid.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/9abgJmMmftA" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/9abgJmMmftA" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: advice, picking, boiler, brand, heat loss, brand model, water heater, around here, better choice, Crown Aruba, efficiency boilers, heat loss calculation, high efficiencyAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-31800195743264440172014-03-11T20:31:00.010-07:002014-03-11T21:43:14.609-07:00Walkin Closet Ideas<p>A closet can be set up to be very functional and efficient. There are many closet shapes and layouts and so many options to explore when laying out your closet. Most needs can be met by following some simple construction guidelines. Personal needs and tastes can be taken into account to make your closet unique and personal.</p><br /><p><h2>Rods</h2></p><br /><p>Arrange the rods so you have at least one section mounted high to allow for hanging long clothes, such as dresses and coats, and one section with a high- and mid-level rod for hanging shorter garments. Mount the rods with support plates on the end walls and have at least one rod support near the middle also mounted on a wall plate. Wall plates are typically 1-inch-thick material roughly 6 inches square. Take care to mount the plate in such a way that the top edge will fall where you want your shelf support level to end up. The middle support plate should fall on a stud if at all practicable.</p><br /><p><h2>Shelving</h2></p><br /><p>Support the shelf ends on the rod-support plate. Run 1-by-2 cleats the length of the wall at the back edge of the shelf. Space the rod bracket down by a short piece of 1-by-2 to allow for clearance between the rod and the shelf above.This will allow for easier removal of hangers. Mount one shelf over the upper rods and mount one shelf that runs the complete perimeter of the closet at the level of the top of the door trim. Construct the shelving from 1-inch-thick material or #xBE;-inch plywood. Apply screen mold on the outer rough edge of the plywood to cover the exposed grain.</p><br /><p><h2>Shoe Boxes and Accessories</h2></p><br /><p>Shoe boxes act not only as storage for shoes but can also support a rod plate to allow for extra hanging room. Shoe boxes typically rest on the floor and act as the support for the upper-room shelf, which eliminates the need for wall cleats. The boxes are roughly 6 feet tall by 18 inches wide. A shoe box can be a simple level-shelved cabinet or be set at an angle to present shoes as in a shoe store display. Accessories can include a built-in seat for putting on shoes and a jamb switch that turns the closet light on when the door is opened and turns it off again as the door is closed.</p><br /><p><h2>Sample Setup</h2></p><br /><p>A typical setup for a closet 8 feet wide by 12 feet deep would have on one side a single high rod with a shelf directly above. The other side would have the two-rod setup with a shelf over the top rod only. The back end of the closet would have the shoe box centered and could have short rods or short shelves supported on both sides. The closet can be completed with a top shelf that runs continuously around the top of the space supported by wall cleats, the shoebox and rod-support plates. Be aware that smaller closets may need to have the entry-door side of the top shelf left out to allow easier access to the rest of the top shelf.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/DskQeeGsA_Y" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/DskQeeGsA_Y" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-83634565796290276482014-03-11T20:31:00.009-07:002014-03-11T21:43:03.696-07:00Repairing The Kitchen Faucet With A Spray Nozzle<p>Repairing a kitchen faucet with a spray nozzle requires a few additional steps, if you want to fix a leak and repair a problem with the sprayer. This job requires no serious plumbing skill but it does call for a knowledge of basic tools and how faucets work. You will change out two parts to complete this repair. The first is the faucet's cartridge, and the second is the diverter, which diverts water to the sprayer and is inside the faucet base.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Shut off the water by closing both pipe valves inside the sink cabinets beneath your faucet.</p><br /><p>2. Pull the plastic plug out of the handle and unscrew the screw under this plug with an Allen wrench. This plug is on the handle's base near the bottom edge on most faucets. Slide the handle off the faucet by hand once the screw is out.</p><br /><p>3. Unscrew the dome, a rounded cap under the handle, by hand. If the part is difficult to remove, use a pair of large pliers to unscrew it. This part is also called a bonnet nut on some faucets.</p><br /><p>4. Remove the packing, a plastic washer under the dome, or take off the adapter by unscrewing the adapter screw and pulling the part off. Remove any other seals or washers under this part.</p><br /><p>5. Take out the ball lever and replace the two seat springs, which are black rubber seals with springs, inside the faucet body. Or, remove the cartridge clip and take out the cartridge, if your faucet has a cartridge and not a ball valve.</p><br /><p>6. Remove the spout by sliding it off the base of the sink by hand. Locate the diverter inside the faucet's base shaft and take it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Insert a new diverter and replace the spout.</p><br /><p>7. Replace the ball valve, or cartridge, if you have a cartridge faucet. Replace the washers, seals, dome cap and handle to rebuild the faucet.</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-26310185971516456422014-03-11T20:31:00.008-07:002014-03-11T21:42:52.470-07:00Use A Waterpik<p>The Waterpik is not as common as the toothbrush or dental floss around the house. The purpose of a Waterpik is similar, however, in that it is used to preserve your oral health. The high pressure of the water is meant to knock debris away from the gum line and in between the teeth. Although a Waterpik should not be used instead of dental floss or a toothbrush, it compliments the two nicely. Use a Waterpik correctly and regularly to have clean, fresh teeth.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Fill the Waterpik's base with room temperature water. The water can be lukewarm, if you prefer. Cold water is a bit uncomfortable on the gums.</p><br /><p>2. Adjust the Waterpik's water pressure. On most models there is a dial that allows the user control over the amount of pressure. In the beginning, it is wise to turn the pressure down as far as possible. Once you get used to a Waterpik, you will feel more comfortable turning it up a bit.</p><br /><p>3. Lean over the sink and place the Waterpik in your mouth. Press the button on the shaft to start the water flow. This is to help keep water from splashing all over the bathroom and mirror. It helps if you close your lips around the Waterpik as well. Just let the water drip out of your mouth into the sink.</p><br /><p>4. Squirt on the gum line with the Waterpik. Pay special attention to the area between the teeth. When you get between each tooth, linger there for a moment. It is extremely difficult to reach behind the teeth, so just concentrate on the front gum line.</p><br /><p>5. Press the off button on the Waterpik shaft, spit out any remaining water and return it back to the base. If there is any remaining water in the base, empty it in your sink. You don't want water sitting in there collecting bacteria and mold. You must refill and empty it for each use.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>Waterpiks can be used to increase gum health by increasing blood circulation to your gum line. They should not, however, replace the use of dental floss. There are places floss can get that a Waterpik can't touch. Your mouth may feel extra clean, but there is still work to do.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Yt05DdUrgN8" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Yt05DdUrgN8" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-24937439001858611542014-03-11T20:31:00.007-07:002014-03-11T21:42:41.423-07:00Reprogram A 2003 Toyota Avalon Keyless Entry<p>Reprogramming your 2003 Avalon's keyless entry feature takes only a couple of minutes.</p><br /><p>The Toyota 2003 Avalon's keyless entry feature can be programmed yourself, without any need to visit a dealership. There is a specific method for programming this feature on the Avalon. Before you begin, make sure that the key is out of the ignition, the doors are unlocked, and that the driver-side door is the only one open. With the right instruction, you will be using the keyless entry remote in no time at all.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Put the car key into the ignition and remove it twice. Do not turn the key once it is inserted. Complete this step within five seconds.</p><br /><p>2. Close the driver-side car door and reopen it twice. Put the key back into the ignition and remove it. This step must be completed within 40 seconds.</p><br /><p>3. Close the driver-side door and open it again two more times. Put the key back into the ignition. Close the driver-side door once more, turn the key to On, then back to Off and remove it. Complete this step within 40 seconds. After three seconds, you should hear the doors lock and unlock automatically. This means that programming mode has been accessed correctly. If you do not hear the doors lock and unlock, repeat Steps 1 through 3.</p><br /><p>4. Hold down both the Lock and Unlock buttons for a second and a half, then release them at the same time.</p><br /><p>5. Hold down the Lock button immediately on the remote for two seconds. You will hear the doors lock and unlock once again, indicating that programming was accomplished. If you do not hear the door locks, repeat Steps 4 and 5, for the signal was not accepted during programming. Steps 4 and 5 will both need to be completed within 40 seconds.</p><br /><p>6. Open the driver-side door to finish the programming procedure. Each remote that you programmed will now be ready to control the 2003 Avalon's keyless entry feature.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>If you are programming multiple remotes, repeat Steps 4 and 5 for these as well.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/M_oA6-VVJzM" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/M_oA6-VVJzM" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-6983778955673154872014-03-11T20:31:00.006-07:002014-03-11T21:42:30.372-07:00Remove Fried Food Flavors From Used Cooking Oil<p>Cooking oil, when used occasionally and sparingly, may seem like one of the more affordable items in your pantry. But when you start frying up food for large groups and going through oil by the quart, the costs can add up in a hurry. Fortunately, there's a trick to deodorizing your used cooking oil so that it can be used multiple times and even for multiple types of food.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Fry one type of food in the cooking oil until you're finished or until the oil starts to look murky and scattered with burnt pieces of food and batter. Remove the oil from your heat source or, if using an electric fryer, turn off the heat. Allow the oil to cool for a few minutes.</p><br /><p>2. Place a strainer over a spare pot or bowl. Make sure the strainer is stable and the container is large enough to hold all of the oil. Carefully and slowly pour the used oil through the strainer and into the container. Unless the oil has cooled completely, you must use extreme caution during this step. Wearing heavy rubber kitchen gloves is advised.</p><br /><p>3. Throw away the bits of food and batter caught in the strainer. Clean the inside of the cooking pot or electric fryer thoroughly using hot water and dish soap. When the pot or fryer is clean, dry it completely before proceeding.</p><br /><p>4. Pour the strained, used oil back into the fryer or pot. If the oil is still hot or warm, use extreme caution and wear gloves if you prefer.</p><br /><p>5. Bring the oil back up to cooking temperature. While the oil is heating, cut a raw potato into several thick slices.</p><br /><p>6. Drop the potato slices into the hot cooking oil and cook them for several minutes until they're golden brown.</p><br /><p>7. Remove the potato slices from the oil and discard them. They will have absorbed the flavors trapped in the oil, so they won't necessarily be good to eat. If you're curious, however, they won't hurt you. Just allow them to cool before taking a bite as you would with any other fried foods.</p><br /><p>8. Your oil should look cleaner and the flavors of the food you most recently cooked should be removed. Feel free to cook another type of food using the same oil.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>Before straining the used oil, make sure the strainer and the container you're straining the oil into are completely clean and dry. If there is moisture on either, the oil may pop and splatter.</p><br /><p>Hot cooking oil can cause extreme burns. Any cooking or cleaning involving hot oil should be done with the utmost caution. Children and pets should stay out of the kitchen during this process.</p><br /><p>This technique is effective for all types of cooking and frying oils, but it is not particularly effective at removing the flavor of fish from any kind of oil. Oil that has been used to fry fish can be strained and re-used for frying other types of fish, but should otherwise be discarded in favor of fresh oil.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/_md2Hp1UCeo" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/_md2Hp1UCeo" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-54905358351969975532014-03-11T20:31:00.005-07:002014-03-11T21:42:19.343-07:00Make Peking Pork Spare Ribs<p>Chinese pork spare ribs are defined by their distinctive Asian sauce.</p><br /><p>Pork is extensively used in Chinese cooking. Meats are a part of a balanced diet. Many cuts of pork are actually lean and can be part of a great diet, even if you are trying to eat weight smart and heart healthy. No matter what your activity level, lifestyle or age, enjoy the nutritional benefits and taste of eating pork. This recipe is about making Peking-style pork spare ribs, also called Chinese Barbecue Pork. The ribs are roasted under the broiler rather than using the conventional grill, so cooking will not be affected by weather and climate.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. 1/4 teaspoon Chinese 5 spice powder</p><br /><p>1/2 cup chicken stock or vegetable stock</p><br /><p>2 cloves minced garlic</p><br /><p>2 tablespoons light soy sauce</p><br /><p>3 tablespoons brown sugar</p><br /><p>1 cup ketchup</p><br /><p>1 tablespoon hoisin sauce (also called Peking sauce)</p><br /><p>2 tablespoons red wine</p><br /><p>1/2 tablespoon rice vinegar</p><br /><p>1/2 teaspoon minced ginger</p><br /><p>3 tablespoons pure honey</p><br /><p>1 rack 4 pounds pork ribs; or 2 racks 2 pounds each, pork ribs</p><br /><p>1 teaspoon sesame seeds, for garnishing (optional)</p><br /><p>2. Mix all the first 10 ingredients in a bowl (the five spice powder through the ginger.) Heat the sauce in the pan, stirring well. Divide the sauce into two portions in two separate bowls.</p><br /><p>3. Wash the ribs and trim any fat if necessary. Place the ribs on a roasting pan. Brush the pork ribs on both sides, using only one portion of the sauce. Cover with foil and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight.</p><br /><p>4. Place the ribs in a broiler. Roast at 350 degrees F for 60 minutes to 1-1/2 hours until done.</p><br /><p>5. Add the honey to saved remaining sauce mixture just before the ribs are done. Baste the ribs on both sides to glaze them.</p><br /><p>6. Arrange the ribs on a warm serving platter. Sprinkle sesame seeds on top of the ribs.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>The sauce can be made beforehand and can be kept in the refrigerator up to five days.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/TX329rG1kQw" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/TX329rG1kQw" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-18020219325068030512014-03-11T20:31:00.004-07:002014-03-11T21:42:08.314-07:00Help Prevent Wrinkles And Aging<p>Protecting your skin from the sun is crucial to avoid looking older than you are.</p><br /><p>Everyone wants to stay young and beautiful forever, but wrinkles are normal part of aging. You genes also play a factor in how many wrinkles and how soon you develop them. However, the number of wrinkles, and the age at which they appear, can be controlled to some degree. There are plenty of anti-aging wrinkle creams that promise excellent results. Yes, some of them work, but the best option is to prevent wrinkles before they happen.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Before you can prevent wrinkles, you need to know the most common and main reasons for wrinkles and aging skin.</p><br /><p>- Smoking and drinking alcohol are two of the worst things you could do for your skin.</p><br /><p>- Sun exposure will instantly increase your risk of developing wrinkles.</p><br /><p>- Pulling and tugging at your face can cause wrinkles, as well as wearing too much make up.</p><br /><p>2. To protect your skin from UV rays and sun damage, the best thing you can do for your skin is to wear sunblock with a high SPF on your face as well as the rest of your skin all the time. Many facial moisturizers have SPF mixed in to protect your skin, so daily application is easy to remember.</p><br /><p>3. Another way to prevent wrinkles and aging is to live a healthy lifestyle. If you smoke, quit. Drink in moderation, and eat healthy foods to have lots of antioxidants. Antioxidants have built in anti-aging vitamins. Eating fresh fruits and vegetables will give you the vitamins you need to keep skin naturally healthy. Also, take vitamin E supplements to keep your skin healthy and young. It's also good to exercise at least three times a week. This helps rid of body and skin of toxins and free radicals.</p><br /><p>4. Start using anti-aging creams; it's best to start using them in your 20s. By the time you're 20, your skin has already had some damage done.</p><br /><p>5. Wash your face at night, but don't tug or pull at your face. The skin on your face is thinner and more sensitive, and pulling will weaken skin which can cause wrinkles.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>Drink lots of water to hydrate your skin daily.</p><br /><p>Sweating actually helps skin look younger.</p><br /><p>Natural facial masks can help add vitamins back to your skin.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/bMJlN9iPpCI" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/bMJlN9iPpCI" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-47527861972406028672014-03-11T20:31:00.003-07:002014-03-11T21:41:57.283-07:00Cook Pork Spareribs<p>Pork spareribs make a tasty dinner when paired with a vegetable side and cornbread.</p><br /><p>Pork spareribs can be prepared a variety of ways, such as on the grill, in a slow cooker or in the oven. This recipe for pork spareribs starts out by broiling the meat and then cooking them at a lower temperature to caramelize the barbecue glaze. You can serve these spareribs as an appetizer for entertaining or make a meal of it by pairing it with a vegetable side and cornbread. This recipe for pork spareribs serves at least four.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Remove the membrane from the side of the bone. Use a small paring knife to separate it from the bone and then pull on it. Dispose of membrane in a trash can.</p><br /><p>2. Place the ribs in a large shallow container. Rub the ribs with the brown sugar. Turn the ribs over with the meat side facing down. Pour in the vinegar. Allow the ribs to marinate for a couple of hours.</p><br /><p>3. Set the oven to broil. Remove the ribs from the marinade and put them in the broiler pan. Place the ribs under the broiler for about 15 minutes, or until they begin to turn brown. Turn the pan around in the oven to broil evenly.</p><br /><p>4. Decrease the oven temperature to 375 degrees. Cook the ribs for about 20 minutes longer.</p><br /><p>5. Remove the ribs from the oven and use a brush to generously apply the barbecue sauce. Put them back in the oven for 15 minutes. Repeat this step two more times until barbecue sauce is caramelized.</p><br /><p>6. Remove the ribs from the oven and place them on a carving board. Separate the ribs from each other and serve.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>Tons of other great sites are out there on the internet to help you with your cooking. Be sure to look around on Google to find some.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/x_1V-NkbaS4" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/x_1V-NkbaS4" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-35832580153417140622014-03-11T20:31:00.002-07:002014-03-11T21:41:46.253-07:00Change A Home Furnace Thermostat<p>Installing a programmable thermostat helps you save on utility costs.</p><br /><p>When you need to change your home furnace thermostat, you have two basic options: call a professional or do it yourself. Thermostats are connected to the furnace via wiring, so you don't have to work with the furnace itself. Depending on your setup, you'll have three or more wires connected to the back of the thermostat. With just a few tools, the thermostat can be changed out in minutes.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Turn off power to your furnace and air conditioning unit. Locate the correct breaker or fuse in your breaker box and either turn off the breaker or remove the fuse at the electrical panel.</p><br /><p>2. Grasp the thermostat cover on each side and pull gently to remove it. Unscrew the mounting plate from the wall.</p><br /><p>3. Label the existing thermostat wires. Each will be connected to a lettered terminal. Use each letter as the identification on the label.</p><br /><p>4. Unscrew each wire from its terminal on the old thermostat. Wrap them around something like a pencil or pen when you're finished to keep them from dropping back into the wall.</p><br /><p>5. Pull the wires through the new thermostat's base. Push the base tight to the wall and mark the mounting holes with a pencil once it's level.</p><br /><p>6. Remove the base and drill a 3/16-inch hole at each marked location. Tap in the plastic anchors with a hammer.</p><br /><p>7. Put the base panel back into position on the wall. Level the panel and fasten it to the wall with the provided screws.</p><br /><p>8. Connect each thermostat wire to the appropriate terminal on the new thermostat. Refer to the labels when connecting the wires to ensure they're placed on the correct terminal.</p><br /><p>9. Attach the thermostat to its new base by pushing it on until it snaps into place. Restore power to your furnace and air conditioner. Program the thermostat by following the instructions in your thermostat's manual.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>If the new thermostat is smaller than the old model, chances are you'll have mismatched paint behind it. If this is the case, you may want to paint the wall before installing the thermostat.</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-49958576492509541952014-03-11T20:31:00.001-07:002014-03-11T21:41:35.236-07:00Home Remedies For Blisters On Tongue<p>You may develop blisters on your tongue for many reasons: The most common causes of tongue blisters include allergies to food and medicine, upset stomach, vitamin deficiency, dental work, hormonal changes, a compromised immune system and mouth injuries. Viral infections, herpes simplex, anemia, aphthous ulcers, hand-foot-and-mouth disease and other chronic infections may also produce blisters on the tongue, according to the Mayo Clinic. Home remedies provide a safe and effective way to relieve the pain associated with most tongue blisters.</p><br /><p><h2>Home Remedies</h2></p><br /><p>Blisters on your tongue typically last for seven to 10 days, whether you treat them or not. Home remedies and other medications can relieve some of the pain caused by the blisters. Some remedies also promote faster healing. Regardless of what caused the blister on your tongue, home remedies can make the blister more tolerable while it heals.</p><br /><p>Try a salt water or baking soda rinse. Add a 1/2 tsp. of table salt or sea salt to 1 cup of warm tap water, and mix thoroughly. Rinse your mouth with this solution several times daily. According to the Mayo Clinic, a salt water rinse soothes the mouth and reduces the inflammation and pain caused by tongue blisters. Salt also contains properties that can kill bacteria and prevent infection, Ayurvedic Cure reports. Alternatively, add 1 tsp. of baking soda to 1 cup of warm tap water to rinse your mouth. Swish the solutions around your tongue and mouth for a few minutes to receive the full benefits of the remedy.</p><br /><p>Make a paste for the tongue blister. Mix 1/2 tsp. of turmeric powder with 1 tbsp. of pure honey. Apply the paste on your tongue with your finger. Allow the paste to penetrate your tongue for at least three minutes. For an alternative to honey, use a paste consisting of 1 tsp. of warm water and 1 tbsp. of turmeric powder. You can also create a paste made of baking soda and water: Mix 1 tsp. of warm water with 1 tbsp. of baking soda. Using a clean cotton swab, apply the mixture to your tongue blister for about two minutes. Avoid swallowing these mixtures.</p><br /><p>Reduce pain and inflammation with the help of liquid remedies. Mix equal parts of hydrogen peroxide and warm water, and apply it to your tongue blister for about 2 minutes using a clean cotton swab. Apply plain peppermint essential oil, garlic oil, vitamin E oil, antiseptic mouthwash or witch hazel directly to your tongue blister using a cotton swab. Repeat these remedies several times daily as needed.</p><br /><p>To prevent further irritation or infection, avoid eating acidic and spicy foods. Also avoid eating extremely hot (as in temperature) foods. Eating ice pops, ice cream, and ice chips can make tongue blisters more tolerable, according to the Mayo Clinic. Drink more cold milk and beverages, and increase your water intake.</p><br /><p><h2>Medical Treatment</h2></p><br /><p>The National Institutes of Health recommend seeking medical attention if sores and blisters last longer than two weeks, if they are accompanied by other symptoms, or if you notice them after beginning new medications.For recurrent or severe tongue blisters, your doctor may recommend a topical oral anesthetic or an over-the-counter acetaminophen pain reliever. Tongue blisters and sores caused by herpes simplex virus may require antiviral medications. Talk to your doctor before using any remedy to treat your tongue blister if you have a compromised immune system due to HIV, herpes or cancer.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ppwU44UWWK4" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ppwU44UWWK4" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-34875140628446309702014-03-11T20:31:00.000-07:002014-03-11T21:41:24.018-07:00Causes Of Retinaculum Foot Pain<p>The term retinaculum foot pain describes pain in any of the retinaculums of the foot. A retinaculum is a thickened band of crural fascia (similar to tendons and ligaments) and is responsible for holding organs or tissues in place. Retinaculum foot pain is typically caused by physical injury, disease or a combination of both.</p><br /><p><h2>Anatomy</h2></p><br /><p>The term retinaculum refers to any structure that holds an organ or tissue in place. Although distinctly different, it is very similar to tendons and ligaments with respect to its job function. There are three retinaculums in the foot: the extensor retinaculum of the foot inferior, the retinaculum of the foot superior and also the flexor retinaculum of foot. The extensor retinaculum of foot inferior is a thick band that runs across the front of the ankle joint and the back of the foot. The extensor retinaculum of foot superior is located on the front of the lower leg and attaches the lower legs bones in order to hold tendons in place. Lastly, the flexor retinaculum of foot extends from the middle of the shin bone down to the heel bone.</p><br /><p><h2>Injuries</h2></p><br /><p>The most obvious cause of any foot pain is physical injury to the foot or ankle. For example, sprains, strains, bruises, twists, fractures and other foot injuries can damage muscles, joints, ligaments, tendons and any of the retinaculum in the foot. Treatment includes rest, casts, administration of pain medication and in some situations, surgery.</p><br /><p><h2>Other Causes</h2></p><br /><p>Foot pain also can be a sign or symptom of a medical condition such as a disease or infection. For example, diabetes, gout and Hansen's disease commonly affect the health of the feet. Similarly, arthritis in the foot can cause pain, particularly in areas where the bones connect or meet. Other medical conditions causing pain include bone spurs, tendinitis and warts. Foot pain also can be caused by poorly fitted shoes and overuse.</p><br /><p><h2>Treatment</h2></p><br /><p>Mild foot pain resulting from injury can usually be treated through rest and taking over-the-counter anti-inflammatory pain medication such as ibuprofen. More serious causes such as severe injuries or foot pain from a medical condition, however, are treated with medication, casts and in some instances, surgery.</p><br /><p><h2>Expert Insight</h2></p><br /><p>Pain associated with a medical condition such as gout or diabetes or pain that is so severe that it interferes with your ability to ambulate, must be addressed with a medical professional immediately. If left untreated, long-term damage or disability may occur.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/hkBpls_X2IQ" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/hkBpls_X2IQ" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-75279796239754231182014-03-10T20:46:00.008-07:002014-03-10T21:49:50.679-07:00Underlayment For Porcelain Tiles<br><br />Hi,<br />I am installing porcelain tiles in my bathroom. I have a question about appropriate underlayment for this. It is a main floor bathroom with a basement underneath. The subfloor is plywood and now is covered with levelquick compound for leveling. it is quite level now. My question is can I lay the tiles directly on the levelquick (which I beleive is some kind of cement) or do I need to put some backerboard? The levelquick has been on for a couple of weeks and is starting to show some hairline cracks running through.<br /> <br />I'll assume you used the primer and the lathe over the plywood before you poured the levelquik. If the pour is 1/2 or more in the thinist part of the pour, you can install the tile over the levelquik. Dont put cement board over the levelquik. If you were going to use cement board, the levelquik would go on top of the cement board. It would be a good idea to install an isolation membrane like ditra over the levelquik. You can check out ditra at schluter.com.<br /> <br />Thanks for the reply and advice, heresjohnny. Actually, I did use a primer over the plywood but not a lathe. I was not advised by the HD people and i don't even know what it is. Do I now have a fatal flaw? Also, the level quick is probably around 1/4 to 1/2 at the very thickest. Do I need to add more and thicken this up or can I proceed with the tiling? Also, I don't know what ditra is nor where it goes; between the plywood and levelquick or between the levelquick and the tiles? I appreciate your advice. thanks.<br /> <br />Lath is required over all plywood installations. Its in levelquik's installation instructions. Cut and past this link into your browser and read about installations over plywood.<br />http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/docs/data_sheets/LevelQuik%20RS%20DS%205-07.pdf?user=arclang=en<br />The lath helps to make the thin pour more solid over the plywood floor. Without it youll likely experience some cracking. My opinion is your taking a chance by not fixing it now, but thats your call. Ditra is an isloation membrane. It goes over the levelquik, and helps to isolate any movement in the floor below the membrane from the tile installation above. There are other isolation membranes besides ditra that you can use. Unfortunately, HD people are not a good source for information as they are often ill informed about whats required.<br /> <br />Thanks aggain, HeresJohnny. It sounds like I have a potential problem. You suggest fixing it now. I tend to agree, but how? I will have to remove the levelquick, right? How do I do that?<br /> <br />OK, I learned all about uncoupling underlayment. sounds like a good idea and I will take your advice and put it on the levelquick. However, I ran into an issue that seems bothersome to me and I hope that you (or anyone else) can inform me (the HD guy could not help in this respect). I picked up the Ditra membrane at HD and I picked up a bag of FlexBond thin set. Then I read on the Ditra package instructions that only UNMODIFIED thin set is to be used. HD has 3 kinds of thin set---the FlexBond which is polymer modified, the VersaBond which is also modified and the Custom Blend which is unmodified. They range in price from about $30, $15 and $5, respectively. Should I really use the unmodified (re: unfortified and cheaper (i.e., you get what you pay for)) thin set for this? The Ditra instructions are quite clear and they state it twice; Use unmodified thin set.... I don't want to make a big mistake here. From what I can gather the polymer modified thin set is recommended for difficult-to-adhere to surfaces like plywood (not me, I am laying the Ditra on levelquick and the tiles on Ditra) and for porcelain tiles. I am using porcelain tiles. Does anyone have some advice or assurances? Should I really use the unmodified thin set or should I go with one of the others that I mentioned? Thanks.<br /> <br />Follow the instructions. Ditra is an uncoupling membrane. There are two schools of thought with tile adhesion. One, which is the one I adhere to, is the uncoupling school. Although I have personally never used this membrane, the theory is that, over time, the bond between the membrane and the surface it's on will break and they will uncouple. Modified thinset will hamper this process. There are others on this site with lots of actual experience with this product and can give you much more detailed why information and, hopefully, they'll weigh in soon.<br /> <br />Yes, you need to use an umodified thinset under the ditra if you are going over concrete. If you are going over plywood, then you need to use a modified thinset between the ditra and the plywood. you need to use unmodified to set the tile over ditra. I dont do much with the Custom Building Products thinsets, but I wouldnt use the customblend. Its real low end stuff so I hear. Custom Building Products makes a better unmodified. I think its call Masterblend but dont quote me. If you have a good tile store in the neighborhood, a good unmodified that I use with ditra is Tec Full Set.<br />Some tips with the ditra. Thinset comes in grey and white. Use the grey under the ditra. When you embed the ditra into the thinset you will be able to see the grey thinset through the ditra. You'll be able to see if the ditra is making full contact and is embedded fully in the thinset. The little squares in the ditra are actually dovetailed, and the thinset actually gets locked into the dovetail squares as it sets up. Thats what holds the tile to the ditra. Ditra is also a waterproofing membrane. Modified thinsets wont cure fast enough because they need air to set up, whereas unmodifieds do not. This is why you must use the unmodified over the ditra. Modified thinsets used with ditra can take a long time to cure and may void your warranty on the product.<br /> <br />thanks for the information, guys. Actually, I took some time out earlier and found the Ditra guide on the Schluter website. Their info matches nicely what you say and it provides data to support their recommendation for unmodified thin set. I am learning a lot... I've cut all the Ditra pieces to fit the room but I haven't set them yet. I'll do that tomorrow, after I return the CustomBlend thin set and try to locate the one you suggested (or at least one that doesn't say economy grade on the package like the custom blend does). And thanks for the installation tips. Here is a question. Am I supposed to push on the Ditra so that the thin set goes through the white mesh and fills the crevices of the underside of the orange part of the membrane or is it just supposed to go through the white mesh only?<br />TMB<br />P.S. Just want to mention that I emailed Schluter today to ask them this question and two of their representatives replied within hours. Nice customer service...<br /> <br />Glad you went to the schluter website and did your homework. Thats more than half the battle and too may people dont bother to do it until after they have a problem. You need to make sure that the fabric on the bottom makes 100% contact with the thinset. You can pull up a section of a piece to make sure. Yes they are a great company with very good support people.<br /> <br />I am looking for a good quality non-modified thin set to use with the Ditra membrane but I am having some trouble finding some locally. None of the tile stores around my place sell any. The nearest Lowe's has laticrete 273 and 317. Does anyone know if either of these are any good for laying Ditra to levelquick and porcelain tiles to Ditra? The packages for these products say nothing about them meeting A118.1 standard which is what Schluter recommends. I've got the Ditra ready to go but nothing to stick it with!<br /> <br />In addition to the laticrete 273 and 317 there is one outlet close by that sells Durabond Premium D5 thin set mortar. It doesn't specifiy that it is modified so I assume it isn't. Can you tell me if this is a good quality mortar to use to lay tiles on the Ditra membrane? Thanks.<br /> <br />If you found a supply house that sells Durabond, they make a product called Durabond D-25 Ditraset. Its exactly what you need. Im not that familiar with the laticrete products. I looked at the info online on the laticrete website. The 317 looks like it would be fine also.<br /> <br />Yes. In my attempts to learn more about Durabond premium D-5 I also discovered teh D-25 DitraSet. I'm going over to the place that sells the Durabond in he hopes that they have the Ditraset. If not then I guess I will go with the Durabond premium D-5 or the Laticrete 317. Thanks for your help.<br />TMB<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/RYNBZZqlfio" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/RYNBZZqlfio" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: underlayment, porcelain, tiles, over plywood, over levelquik, cement board, Ditra membrane, going over, sells Durabond, that sells, that sells Durabond, tiles DitraAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-21019108918943646492014-03-10T20:46:00.007-07:002014-03-10T21:49:39.330-07:00Septic Tank And Field Lines<br><br />In 1996 I purchased a house that was built in 1976 in Dyersburg, TN (west tenn.) I had to have the septic tank pumped during the winter of 1998 when the ground was frozen. My tank is just a few feet from my bathroom and kitchen windows. I remember watching the men who pumped the tank using a shovel to break through SOMETHING. Ever since then I have had nothing but trouble. I have had the tank pumped three times since 98. I read where gravel was supposed to be under the field lines. I don't think mine is. My soil is constantly soggy when rains (we get everyones run off)..is the tank supposed to be so close to the house? Is it expensive to replace the tank and lines? Can a lay person do it?<br /> <br />Check with the plumbing inspector in the county you reside in regarding this and it would be difficult for someone without all the knowledge regarding septic systems. I am a plumber and I stay away from them; I am a inside plumber and like having a roof over my head when I work.<br /> <br />Thank you for your reply....I didn't know which forum to post this question. Have a nice day.<br /> <br />joanmarie1,<br />You posted your question in the right forum. Be patient and one of the guys who knows septic systems (I'm not one either) will be along to help you. Like DUNBAR PLUMBER suggested, check with your local bldg. or health dept. They should have the records of the installation of your system. They can also tell you whether or not a rock base was required for your leach system. It all depends on the type of soil that your area has.<br /> <br />Your Health Department most likely permitted this septic system, and should have a record of the description of it.<br />The location of the tank next to your home is typical, and should be no problem.<br />The people who pumped your tank used a shovel to uncover and pry open the tank access cover in order to pump it. Normally, the only maintenance recommended for a septic system is that it be pumped at least every five years.<br />Your primary problem seems to be ground saturation of the drainfield. I would bet that the drainfield lines are laid in gravel for drainage, however.<br />Another contributing possibility are roots and hairlike rootballs that may have grown through the perforations in the drainfield lines. This can be controlled by flushing a cup or two of copper sulphate crystals ($7-8 bucks a 3-lb bag) down a toilet into the system about 3 times a year.<br />I don't know the lay of the land around your drainfield, but you can get a septic system technician from your Health Department to come out and recommend solutions.<br />If possible, I would trench around the upside of the entire drainfield system, and install an underground, sloped drainage system to divert water around it, similar to a French drain system. This will help prevent ground saturation and freezing up of the drainfield in winter.<br />Another alternative is to build up sand over the entire drainfield deep enough to create a level-top hill for water to flow off of and around.<br />There are ways to alleviate your problem, but only someone that can see it can advise you properly.<br />The cost on installing a basic system (1,000-gallon tank, distribution box, and 210' minimum-length of drainfield lines) is about $1,800 here in NE NC, but additional requirements may run into the thousands.<br />Good Luck!<br /> <br />Old Guy is right on target! The sloped drainage system to divert the water could very well be the solution to your problem. In our case, the State Health Department came out and inspected our tank installation, and they keep a record/file of the permit and details. Based on our perc test, and house plans, they specified the size and the minimum length for the field lines and the drainage base requirements. They only required the tank to be outside of the footprint of the house so that it could be dug up if necessary, no minimum distance requirement from the house. Our cost was about $1500 here in West GA.<br /> <br />The person you are looking for is the County Sanitarian in the Health / Environment Department.<br />There will be a paper trail on your septic system with your county. If not, someone is in big trouble.<br />Good luck with this...<br /> <br />your drain field is filling with water each rain storm maybe back into the tank. Also, keep solids from going into tank -- esp from garbage disposal, cig butts, sanitary napkins, facial tissue, etc. Be careful of chemicals -- cleaners, etc -- something you are using may be killing the bacteria necessary for the septic system to digest the sewage.<br /> <br />Thank you all for your imput. I stopped disposing all you mentioned above in 1998. I even removed my garbage disposal.<br />I keep going back to when I first moved into my home. Everything was fine until sept of 98. I had to have it pumped three times within a year. I had the run off from everyones yards from the very beginning...I have an old apple tree in my back yard (a tornado recently disposed of it for me). My neighbors have a lot of trees lining my property. Could roots from their trees be in my yard? I am hoping I wont have to put in new field lines..i just don't have the money. That is why I am searching every other avenue first. Is there anything I can use to flush out the field lines if they are blocked or clogged?<br /> <br />Roots love water, and roots grow the fastest when there are really dry dry spells without periods of rain.<br />RootX is a great product, but the application mainly refers to inside piping in the floor of basement out the lateral to sewer or septic tank.<br />Have someone camera your piping; an excellent start to rule out all of the piping you cannot visibly get access to.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/UwUqv4mnNz8" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/UwUqv4mnNz8" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: septic, tank, field, lines, septic system, drainfield lines, field lines, Health Department, divert water, drainage system, drainage system divertAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-66236229875368103112014-03-10T20:46:00.006-07:002014-03-10T21:49:28.117-07:00Qo Vs Hom Circuit Breakers Differences<br><br />I'm having a surprisingly tough time finding an answer to this question, and want to make sure I'm not missing anything.<br />For all intents, Square D QO and HOM style breakers are *functionally* identical, other than the HOM lacks the little red flag that displays when a breaker popped. Correct?<br />The reason I ask is because I'm looking for a small box to use as a sub panel, and the HOM box is $15 whereas the QO box is $30 -- thought they both appear to have identical features.<br />The price of the breakers appear to be about equal.<br />Is there any good reason to choose one style over the other? I'm leaning towards QO, mainly because of the red flag.<br /> <br />The QO series uses a copper buss in the panels vs the aluminum buss on the Homeline.<br />The breaker internals are the same. The difference is in the mounting, physical size and the Visi-trip flag.<br />If the QO breaker is the same price as the Homeline something sounds mis-priced. QO is normally about 2x the price of Homeline breakers.<br /> <br />Thanks for that.<br />Due to space constraints between studs, I'm going with a fairly narrow box with 6 spaces. Six is probably all I'll need, but...<br />In the interest of future expansion, is there any reason NOT to go with tandem QOT breakers now? This could allow me to reserve one or maybe two slots for some silly project in the future.<br /> <br />The QO breaker is the better of the 2 breakers, panel interiors of either one are cheap/cheesy plastic but one should use the same manufacturer type for all panels in a building unless it's is a obsolete line such as Zinsco/Sylvania, FPE , ITE Pushmatic.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by Norcal<br />...one should use the same manufacturer type for all panels in a building...<br />Is that should as in one should not walk through Christian Bale's line when shooting a scene on-set, or as in the NEC says one should use similar types...?<br /> <br />Originally Posted by speede541<br />... is there any reason NOT to go with tandem QOT breakers now? This could allow me to reserve one or maybe two slots for some silly project in the future.<br />At least in my area (Chicago and suburbs) some AHJs don't allow them (big hassle for me as a home inspector, because I inspect it around 80 different communities) - the reasoning is that tandem breakers encourage people to create multiwire circuits with the ungrounded (hot) conductors on the same phase.<br /> <br />There is no code article that says all the panels need to match on the same site. But having all the same equipment makes it easy to be familiar with it instead of needing to know multiple brands.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by Michael Thomas<br />At least in my area (Chicago and suburbs) some AHJs don't allow them (big hassle for me as a home inspector, because I inspect it around 80 different communities) - the reasoning is that tandem breakers encourage people to create multiwire circuits with the ungrounded (hot) conductors on the same phase.<br />Roger that. I'll double check with a local electrician to cover my bases.<br />But operationally, there would be no reason not to, presuming it is permitted?<br /> <br />Based on the NEC you can use the tandem breakers as long as you follow the manufacturer's specification. Sometimes the panels can only accept tandems in certain slots on the panel such as a 30/40. This type of panel can only accept tandems in the bottom 10 slots.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/YkgtZjVfE8Y" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/YkgtZjVfE8Y" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: circuit, breakers, tandem breakers, Originally Posted, accept tandems, AHJs allow, AHJs allow them, AHJs allow them hassle, AHJs allow them hassle home, allow reserveAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5567446654256061750.post-15644092044348037882014-03-10T20:46:00.005-07:002014-03-10T21:49:15.802-07:00Need A/C Blower Motor Electrical Help!<br><br />so I decided to replace my blower motor. I went to ac supply<br />and bought a motor. I took the old one to match.<br />I hooked up the yellow and blue wire just like the old<br />motor. I hooked up capacitor and thought this was easy.<br />Flipped the breaker and the fan took off like a jet<br />plane. The motor specs appear to be the same.<br />After a poof from the motor I shut it down.<br />I am now wondering<br />where to go from here? Any advice is appreciated<br />here is the original motor info<br />ge 5kcp39pg S084 s<br />the motor the store sold me is a<br />ao smith Fd6001<br />I think the original is a 3 speed and the replacement is a 4 speed?<br /> <br />Is this an air handler with electric heat?<br />I see that the new motor is 230 volt 3 speed 3/4 hp.<br />I can't bring up that exact GE motor.<br />A 4 speed motor usually uses white for common and yellow is a speed.<br />A 3 speed motor will somtimes use yellow for common. (this appearance may be due to age)<br />Connecting yellow to common instead of white can smoke a motor.<br />You might double check the wiring.<br /> <br />Thanks for the help<br />This a air handler with heat. the new motor is a 4 speed which I found out later. The original GE says it is a 3 speed. The original had the yellow and blue hooked up. I didnt pay attention so Im sure it is fried. the ao smith site has a fd1076 which is what I think I need?<br />The link below will lead you to the models we are talking about. If I buy the 3 speed can I assume that yellow is to be used? I will try to post the GE info<br />the ge motor has a yellow, red, blue, black and 2 cap brown leads. it says 1100 rpm 3sp on the side. I assume this is a 3 speed.<br />A.O.Smith Electrical Products Company<br /> <br />Houston I checked the ao smith site and you are correct. The three speed motor does use yellow for common and blue. The 4 speed uses white. So I guess the motor is fried. Could any other components be affected from hooking the yellow?<br /> <br />It is possible that the fan relay on your circuit board was damaged.<br />You can remove power and visually inspect both sides of the circuit board.<br />I'd start with a new motor and cap.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/JB6Cszao9g0" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/JB6Cszao9g0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: need, blower, motor, electrical, help, speed motor, yellow blue, yellow common, circuit board, handler with, motor speed, smith siteAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17610931278653739906noreply@blogger.com