Many porches use open riser stairs with iron balusters.
Iron baluster manufacturers create balusters with many different designs, from plain wrought iron stock to balusters with intricate designs along their length. Iron balusters fence in the space between a stair's handrail and its stringer or treads. Stairs with an open riser do not contain a kick plate in the vertical area between its treads. Iron balusters typically measure 44 inches long. Many local building codes require that open riser stairs have 4 inches of lift between each tread and that iron balusters must be installed with 4 inches or less space between each other. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Lay out the balusters' placement along the bottom of the handrail, using a tape measure and pencil, and using your local building code as a spacing guide. Start at the top post and place a pencil mark under the handrail at the appropriate spacing.
2. Transfer the layout marks from the handrail to either the stringer or the open-riser stair's tread, using a plumb bob. Hold the plum bob's string on the handrail's pencil mark, and place a pencil mark where the plumb bob's weight meets the stringer or tread. If the open-riser stairs do not use a stringer and the balusters do not lay out evenly on each tread, adjust the baluster's spacing until each tread contains the same amount of evenly spaced balusters.
3. Drill a 1-inch-deep hole at each layout mark on the tread or stringer, using an electric drill equipped with a 5/8-inch drill bit. Most open-riser stairs use treads that are 1-1/2 inches thick. Do not drill completely through the open riser's tread.
4. Drill a 1-1/2- to 2-inch-deep hole at each layout mark on the handrail, using the electric drill and 5/8-inch drill bit. If the stairs use a 2-inch-thick handrail, drill a 1-1/2-inch-deep hole. If the stairs use a handrail 2-1/2 inches or more thick, drill a 2-inch-deep hole. Do not drill completely through the handrail.
5. Place an iron baluster next to each set of holes.
6. Measure the space between the handrail and the stringer or tread at each set of holes, and add 1-1/2 inches to the measurement. Transfer the total length to the appropriate baluster.
7. Cut the baluster to length with a hacksaw. Each iron baluster should have a measurement 1-1/2 inches greater than the spacing between its set of holes.
8. Place a shoe --- the trim piece --- on both ends of each baluster. The manufacturer supplies the shoes with the balusters.
9. Slide each baluster into its respective set of holes. Push the top of the baluster into the hole in the handrail, and position the bottom of the baluster over its hole in the stringer or tread. Drop the baluster into the hole in the tread or stringer.
10. Wrap the top of the baluster next to the handrail with masking tape.
11. Fill the spaces around the balusters' holes in the handrail and the tread or stringer with epoxy. The masking tape protects the top of the baluster from dripping epoxy. Let the epoxy set before continuing.
12. Remove the masking tape from the iron baluster.
13. Position the shoes over the holes that hold the iron balusters in place. Lock the shoes in place with the correct size of Allen wrench.
Tags: open riser, 2-inch-deep hole, baluster into, each tread, masking tape, pencil mark
