Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Install An Outdoor Stair Railing

Railings are essential to protect anyone who uses your home's exterior stairs from nasty tumbles, slips and falls that can result in serious injury. That's why the International Residential Code specifies that railings be included on any outside stairs with more than three steps or that rise more than 30 inches above the ground. A railing is also an important aesthetic feature that gives outdoor stairs a polished and finished look. For either purpose the railing must be properly secured, because a wobbly, unstable railing is not only unattractive, it can be even more dangerous than no railing at all. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions


Install the Posts


1. Measure and cut top and bottom posts for the stairs. The top of each post should be 36 inches above the top of the stair tread it will be placed next to when the post is attached to the stringer. Total length of the posts should be 36 inches, plus the height of the stringer.


2. Mark two holes along the bottom of each post, centered side-to-side on the post face, 2 and 4 inches up from the bottom edge.


3. Drill 5/16-inch pilot holes all the way through the posts at the marks, and countersink each hole 1/2 inch deep with a 1-inch spade bit.


4. Position each post against the stringer and check for plumb using a torpedo level. Mark the post's position on the stringer with a pencil, and poke the pencil through the pilot holes to mark the stringer.


5. Drill 5/16-inch pilot holes at the marks on the stringers.


6. Screw the posts in place using 1/2-inch by 5-inch lag screws and washers, tightened with a socket wrench fitted with a 3/4-inch socket.


Install the Rails


7. Mark a vertical line on the inside face of each post, 2 inches up from the surface of the stair tread. Use an angle square as a straightedge.


8. Hold a 2-by-4 against the outside of the posts, so that the bottom edge is aligned with the marks. Use the inside edges of the posts as guides to draw cut lines on the face of the 2-by-4.


9. Hold a 2-by-4 with its top edge aligned with the back corners of the top and bottom posts. Mark the inside face of the 2-by-4 as before, and draw diagonal cut lines on the posts following the top edge of the 2-by-4.


10. Cut the tops of the posts along the diagonal lines. Cut the 2-by-4 rails along the marked lines, using a circular saw.


11. Position the rails between the posts, centered on each post's width. Screw the rails to the posts by driving 2-1/2-inch deck screws at an angle, through the sides of the rails and into the posts.


12. Position each 2-by-2 baluster along the rails, check for level and mark cut lines along the tops following the top edge of the rail. Use a short length of 2-by-4 scrap as a spacer between the balusters.


13. Cut the balusters to length and miter the bottom ends 45 degrees. Hold the balusters in place and drill 1/8-inch pilot holes 1 inch in from each end. Screw the balusters to the rails with 2-1/2-inch deck screws.


14. Measure and cut a 2-by-4 for the top cap. The cap should run from the back of the top post to 1 inch beyond the front edge of the bottom post. Cut a curve in the front end of the cap using a jigsaw.


15. Apply a bead of construction adhesive along the underside of the cap, along where it will sit on the top rail and posts. Screw the cap to the top rail and posts with 2-1/2 inch deck screws.







Tags: each post, pilot holes, deck screws, 16-inch pilot, 16-inch pilot holes, 2-inch deck