opinions on frost-free hose bib?
I'm relocating my current piping and hose bib in my basement to accomodate a higher ceiling. Is it true that I don't need an inside shutoff valve dedicated to the hose bib as long as I am using a frost-free bib? also, are frost-free bibs a bad idea? at home depot, the people there have mixed opinions so I'm here asking because I know I'll get a straight answer. also, does the 1/2 piping to the hose bib(regardless of where I relocate it) have to be in some sort of configuration? I mean right now, the supply pipe has a 6 90 degree drop before it goes outside, to which I have been told is for drainage purposes. can I just route my new pipe any which way I please? You'll probably get differing opinions here also. I installed frost free hose bibbs soon after I bought my current house. I have since removed them choosing instead a standard hose bibb with shut off valves in my basement. I piped the bibbs to be the lower than their supply. In the winter I shut the ball valve and open the bibb. obviously you remember to disconnect hoses and they are installed correctly with a little down slope. I encountered one here in the early Feb ultra cold that was only about a 4 unit. I had never seen one that short before. The hose had been disconnected so the sillcock did not freeze, but the copper tubing connecting it did. Therefore, I would never use anything less than 8 and 10 or 12 is better. If I were going to do it...I'd probably go Waynes route. Good quality ball valve shut off and quality hosebibb will prob cost less overall than a quality frost free. Make sure to slope it as was mentioned. My house has 2 exterior spigots about 55' apart. 1 is about 8 higher/lower than the other. I have a valve in the cellar so when freezing temps are expected, I'll shut off the valve and drain the pipe. I've had this set up for over 15 yrs and haven't had any issues. There was 1 frost free hose bib installed when I bought my place..... it froze within a yr or 2 The frostproof faucets will come with a nylon wedge. It is to be installed on the top half of the flange holding it to the wall. It forces a downward pointing of the faucet for proper drainage. Of course, we can't ensure you remove your hoses. After your first split one, you will remind yourself. Is it true that I don't need an inside shutoff valve dedicated to the hose bib as long as I am using a frost-free bib? A lot of codes REQUIRE a dedicated shut-off valve for the hose bib, if you ever have to work on it you'll be glad you put one in, your call. I like frost-free spigots to not worry about that first or last frost in the season. But even with them, I still shut them off and bleed them through the coldest part of the winter. Rarely is the interior of the wall where the piping is run warm enough to prevent any freezing. But, just my few cents... thank you all. I'm going with a normal bib and ball valve. I was just trying to avoid adding an access hole in my ceiling. no biggie. thanks! I understand the desire to not have a access hole in a new finished ceiling. Make sure to take pictures of the ceiling area where the piping will be in case you have a problem. Keep in mind that adding ceilings change the heat flow/loss/insulation and this could possibly cause problems in the future. I have had a few homes in cold climates (as low as -50F) and everyone had a frost free bibb plus an interior shut off with a air vent for draining. Even when forgetting to shut off and drain, I had no problems, but the ceilings were not finished and closed, so freezing would be next to impossible. WE did have to run a trickle of water from the lowest faucet to prevent the water from the house supply from freezing since it had a 4.5' frost depth and rock at 4'. Having an interior shut off that has a known location, in the case of a problem, you can always cut a smaller hole where the shut off is instead of tearing our a lot of the ceiling. It may not be legal to cover it, but it sure makes sense. Dick
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