Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Ceiling joists on joist hangers

Ceiling Joists on Joist Hangers?


Hello I'm laying out the ceiling joists for a wide span in our garage that we;re remodeling. I was going to have a long beam (20') with a post about 1/3 the way for support. Then just have the 2x8's ride on top. However I saw where joist hangers can be used so everything is flush and the beam is hidden. I'm looking at 12'-13' spans, no load on top and 1/2 sheetrock. Ok to use joist hangers? Kenny J I see no problem, just be sure to nail the joist hangers per the nailing schedule with the proper nails. Go to the Simpson StrongTie web site for installation info and load ratings of hangers. you are remodeling? what is the roof over the garage framed with? what happened to the old ceiling joists? what you are proposing is okay, but if the roof over your garage was rafter framed and you cut the ceiling joists, you make the system unstable. Yes this is a remodel (gararge to Rec Room). The current roof is 2x8 rafters tied to a ridge beam 24o.c. There are spliced joists (2x6) over-lapping running sideways 24 o.c. About two are doubled up. All are on the ledge tieing into the rafters. There are no collar ties for now. I plan on using 4-5 2x6x12's for collar ties. With the so-called current joists I need to cut and move them up about 7-9 inches to make them higher for a wall. They're only 7'-4 now. I'd like to have 93 minimum height. I plan on just making a new walls instead of shooting furring strips so I can have a solid place to rest the new ceiling joists. They'll tie in with the rafters as well where I can hit them. Since we're going with ceiling tiles instead of drywall the weight should be a little less factor. The room is 22' wide and there will be a large closet 12'x7' in one corner. I'll tie in some supports from that wall to the rafters above as well. Thanks Kenny J I apologize, but i dont totally understand what you are doing. I am mostly confused as to which space you are remodeling; i.e. above or below. my only concern is that with a rafter framed roof, rafters want to push out at the bottom. the ceiling joists work as a tension tie that keeps the rafter ends from moving. by cutting the ceiling joists and installing the beam, you lose the tension tie. the joist hangers may help, but i can tell you with certainty that the hangers are not designed for tension. also, the collar ties do help, but the higher up they go, the less useful they are. to use the flush beam approach, i would install simpson straps on the top or bottom of the ceiling joists to bridge over the beam. you can use a simpson coil strap. also, the connection from the rafter end to the ceiling joist end is key and should not be messed with. Thanks for your time on this. I'm not certain what the simpson straps are but based on what you're suggesting sounds like the direction I'm taking. My neighbor works for a construction firm as a foreman. After looking at the current joists versus what I wanted to do in terms of ceiling height he said my best bet was to run a build-up girder (beam) the length (26') resting on the ledger plate at what height I want the ceiling. Since the current joists (24 o.c) were a few inches below the desired ceiling height I built up new ones raising them up about 14in order to to clear the girder/beam I'm building. I'm then going to strap the joists to the beam. The new joists are tied to the rafters as well on sides and by struts. For the actual ceiling joists (for ceiling tiles/insulation) they'll tie into the beam with joists hangers. For the outer wall I'm building a framed wall instead of using furring strips so the other end of the joists will have more support and better chance of being level. I hope this makes some sense. I'm taking pictures of the progess so maybe later post one of two. Kenny J








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